Where Conquerors Succeed … Passion Flourishes!

By Bonnie Mack, 10-time traveler from Clearwater, FL

Whenever I think of a country that exudes passion (not to mention romance), I immediately think of Italy, with its warm, welcoming people. But taking passion a step further, I found a place that's technically a part of Italy, even though it became an autonomous region in 1946. It has its own statute under the new Italian constitution—and it has its own parliament and elected president. It's Sicily!

Sicily's history dates back thousands of years. At one time or another, it was controlled by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals and Ostrogoths, Byzantine Greeks, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Spanish, Austrians, and British. WOW … with all that “control” and conquering going on, it's no wonder that the Sicilians are passionate. Sicilians may reflect the genes of their Greek, Arab, and Spanish ancestors in their swarthy skin and black hair and eyes. Or, they may be blue-eyed blondes—the result of their Norman, Austrian, and British heritage.

Sicilians are often at odds with their compatriots on the mainland, who frequently look down on them, mostly comparing the language spoken by Sicilians as a “cockney” version of Italian. But whether one is on the mainland, or the island, all Italians speak with their hands, and more than one O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader has given their group lessons in this demonstrative version of the Italian language. With waving arms and furrowed brows, Italians needn't speak a word to get their point across. For certain, that shows the passion of the Italian people.

Bonnie takes a moment to enjoy visiting one of the Greek temples in the Valley of the Temples, outside Agrigento.

When it comes to food, Sicilians add their own spice to every meal. And, while I'm thinking of delicious food, Sicily is like a pastry shop for wonderful architecture. Each of its conquerors left their own flavor on buildings, inside churches, ancient temples, and monuments. The country is a melting pot of natural beauty, interesting history, warm, friendly people, great art, lovely music, and wonderful food.

One of the places I most enjoyed was the Valley of the Temples near the modern city of Agrigento. There's something about those ancient Greek temples that stir one's imagination.

Syracuse/Ortigia on the waterfront was full of narrow pedestrian streets, fountains in the middle of a (round) square, magnificent churches, and enticing outdoor restaurants, where I was entertained by a young musician on the steps of the church just across the way.

Ortigia's narrow streets are charming and photogenic.

The towns of Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla (the newer town) enchant the visitor. Once almost abandoned, the old town of Ragusa is becoming a popular place for university students. Both towns seem to be reaching toward the heavens, as they climb the mountainside.

Corleone, famous for its Cosa Nostra (mafia) ties, appears to be a sleepy, peaceful place, where it seems like every man over the age of 80 enjoys gathering in a luscious park for daily conversation. I particularly enjoyed learning more about the Cosa Nostra, how it began, and its effect on the people of the town, not to mention all Sicilians.

The town of Savoca is reached by a long road that snakes its way up to the hillside town that was used in the movie, The Godfather. Director Francis Ford Coppola wanted to repay the citizens for allowing him to use their beautiful little town for his film. What did they want most? A paved road!

A steep drive on a winding road leads to the old town of Ragusa, built on the hillside.

One of my very favorite places is Taormina, perched high on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. I remember Taormina from the movie magazines, when I was a little girl. All the most famous film stars—American, French, and Italian—made their way to this breathtaking (not to mention historic) spot. Once atop the cliffs, pedestrians are free to roam the streets in safety. Exquisite shops, restaurants, gardens, and a fabulous ancient amphitheater all await the tourists. Our fabulous hotel overlooked the bay beneath it, and we had a private terrace from which we could enjoy the lovely music being played around the pool for wedding guests.

A trip to Sicily wouldn't be complete, without a visit to Mt. Etna. Months before my departure, Etna was full of life, and spitting fiery lava. But by the time I arrived, she was all worn out. I'm sure the inhabitants were happy for the reprieve, but my photos left a lot to be desired.

Aside from exquisite shops, Taormina's narrow pedestrian streets lead to an open square with wonderful architecture that looks over the bay.

My initial trip to Sicily was scheduled for September 12, 2001, but we sadly recall why all travel was canceled. After planning and dreaming about it for a year, or more, it was like being at the top of the ladder, and having the ladder pulled out from under you. Sicily went to the bottom of my list, until thirteen years later, when Grand Circle Travel was offering a trip. Now I was excited again—and the trip was simply wonderful. Perhaps it was even more wonderful, because I waited so long, and then the moment was right.

I've been thinking a lot about Sicily lately, and I'd like to pay her another visit. She's all the wonderful things one loves about being in mainland Italy—only she's not as crowded.

Explore Sicily during Sicily’s Ancient Landscapes & Timeless Traditions or New! Immersion in Sicily: Taormina & the Secret Borghi Trail.