The Mystique of the Skeleton Coast
By Diana Prince, 10-time traveler from Santee, CA
A startling and remarkable side of Namibia is what is known as the Skeleton Coast. It has a stark and powerful beauty. It refers to the rugged coastline that runs over 900 miles along northwest Namibia where its sand-carved dunes meet the Atlantic. It also has the reputation as the "graveyard of ships."
My first view of the Skeleton Coast was from the air during an O.A.T. adventure in 2015 (before we announced New! South Africa & Namibia: Cape Town’s Winelands to the Skeleton Coast). Flying above the Skeleton Coast in a small plane, you become aware of the enormity of the place. The brilliant blue of the ocean with its relentless waves beating against the golden coast, disguise the harsh conditions that give it its name. The Skeleton Coast has been the demise of over a thousand ships, not to mention a number of aircraft. The skeletons of these wrecks attest to the constellation of forces that have taken down ancient galleons as well as modern sea craft.
Among the many ancient ships and galleons which have met a hostile fate along this fearsome stretch of water, the bleached bones of animals are also embedded along the long expanse of coast. The bones of whales and seals among other sea creatures testify to the abundant marine life that has filled this place for centuries. Today, riding along the coast by truck, the coastal waters reveal the electric-pink cluster of flamingos beaching in the shallow waters. Further on, the seals wallow in groups with their snorting, honking sounds and bask in the bright sun. You can hear the powerful flap of the pelicans’ wings as they settle nearby on the shore rocks.
But the real mystique of this place for visitors lies in the many ancient ships and galleons which have met a hostile fate along this fearsome stretch of water. Despite its treacherous reputation, it has an unmistakable and beguiling beauty.
Assaulted by the sun and the corrosive ravages of time, some sit offshore in shallow waters, from which they were never able to be retrieved. Others are embedded inland in the sands where the tides of time have altered the coastline. Instead of ravaging waves, they sit complacently among wind-carved dunes that hold them fast.
This constellation of destructive forces is powerful. The cold Benguela Current in the region can, in only minutes, create a thick fog that occurs when it collides with the dry Namib Desert air. In seconds, the region can be shrouded in dense fogbanks. Also the current can generate enormous and unexpected waves and gale-force winds. Adding to these dangers are the offshore rocks embedded off the coast that have been the demise of many ships.
One of these was the Eduard Bohlen, which met its fate in 1907. Most unusual is its position embedded in the sand over 1,600 feet from the ocean. The German ship was trapped in the sand when it ran aground shortly after leaving Swakopmund on the Namibian coast. Over time, the coastline changed and left a wide swath of sand against a retreating ocean, leaving the ship embedded in its sandy grave.
One of the many shipwrecks that dot the shores.
Near Swakopmund, there is one wreck resting slightly offshore, which was never able to be extracted from its final resting place. This is one of the most visible of the ships observed by modern ghost ship hunters. The Suiderkus, a relatively recent casualty, ran aground in January of 1977 on its maiden voyage, in spite of being equipped with then state-of-the-art navigational systems." It lies in shallow water along a stretch of sand littered with whale bones and remains of other sea creatures which made this barren land their home.
Yet another one of the Skeleton Coast’s victims.
Swakopmund is the colonial-turned-beach-city along this coast. Situated near Walvis Bay, which was once a thriving whaling center, it has lagoons where hundreds of pink flamingos grace the shoreline. Large seal colonies and dolphins also make their home nearby. In a boat ride across the bay, huge pelicans landed on the boat to observe us up close.
In this country of contrast, Namibia’s stunning coast lies like a jewel on the African coast, and will be a treasure for any visitor.
Treasure the beauty of the Skeleton Coast during O.A.T.’s New! South Africa & Namibia: Cape Town’s Winelands to the Skeleton Coast.
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