Where in the World?

Question: Where in the world can you find this fairy palace in the heart of a vast and enchanting forest?

Answer: Banteay Srei, Cambodia

Banteay Srei is a remarkable, rosy temple located amidst the sprawling and mystical woodland known as Angkor Archaeological Park.

Built in the 10th century during the Khmer Empire (according to inscriptions found at the site, its construction was officially completed on April 22, 967 AD), this “jewel in the crown of Angkorian art” has garnered various endearing nicknames over time. From “the lady temple” to “the tiny temple” to “the pink temple,” the list goes on. In truth, “Banteay Srei” translates to “citadel of the women” or “citadel of beauty,” in reference to the many bas-relief carvings of women deities known as devatas.

And, unlike similar temples, Banteay Srei wasn’t built by a king but instead by a Brahman (a member of the highest Hindu caste, that of the priesthood). More specifically, its construction is credited to a priest-doctor, royal physician, and King’s counselor named Yajnavaraha. In fact, historians theorize that the reason the temple is so much smaller than its contemporaries is because Yajnavaraha erected it—to build a monument larger and grander than a royal temple would likely have been considered disrespectful.

While Banteay Srei would remain in use until the 14th century, it wouldn’t be rediscovered until 1914 and, even then, it wasn’t cleared until some 10 years later (the way Banteay Srei was reconstructed was quite revolutionary for its time—see below). Despite being one of the smallest temples in the vast Angkor complex, Banteay Srei's artistic beauty and historical significance make it a must-visit attraction for travelers and history enthusiasts alike.

The temple is square in shape, boasting entrances on both its eastern and western sides. The eastern entrance can be reached by a processional walkway which is lined by galleries on either side, on which most of the sandstone pillars are still standing. The reddish colored sandstone (quartz arenite)—which gives Banteay Srei its nickname of the “pink” temple—is soft and can be carved like wood. The pink hue of the stone adds to the temple's charm and lends it an ethereal beauty, especially during sunrise and sunset when the warm light illuminates the intricate carvings, creating a magical atmosphere.

When you venture into the “citadel of the women,” you’ll soon notice the lavishly decorated libraries and the three central towers, which are decorated with male and female divinities and beautiful filigree relief work. Banteay Srei showcases a plethora of intricate carvings depicting women gracefully holding lotus flowers, their traditional skirts finely detailed. The library pediments are adorned with breathtaking scenes from Hindu mythology, which are meticulously carved into the inlays above lintels, narrating ancient stories through art. Mythical guardians—kneeling statues of humans with animal heads—stand vigilantly, protecting these mesmerizing creations.

This temple's smaller size allowed artisans to focus on minute details, resulting in an awe-inspiring display of ornate reliefs and filigree work. Banteay Srei stands as a testament to the architectural and artistic achievements of the Khmer civilization and remains a cherished heritage site that attracts admirers from around the world.

Seven Fun facts About Banteay Srei:

• The mythical guardians protecting Banteay Srei aren’t the originals: These guardians are, in fact, replicas. The original statues are housed in the National Museum in Phnom Penh to protect them from environmental degradation and potential theft.


• Banteay Srei has a non-profit to its name: Banteay Srei is a youth development, asset-building organization for young Southeast Asian women which promotes education, community, and leadership development to foster cultural pride and self-determination for women at-risk of or engaged in sexual exploitation.


• Banteay Srei first rose to fame because it was robbed: After being rediscovered in 1914, the site was not initially cleared. Then, in 1923, a French politician and novelist named André Malraux stole four devatas from the site. He was caught and the four devatas were returned, but the ensuing attention renewed interest in the area and the restoration process began.


• The restoration of Banteay Srei was the first successful use of a process called "anastylosis": Anastylosis is a restoration technique used in archaeology and architecture, involving the dismantling and reassembling of ancient or historic structures using original and recovered components. The restoration of Banteay Sreiproject, as evidenced today, was a major success and soon led to other larger projects such as the restoration of Bayon. Banteay Srei is also the first to have been given a full makeover in terms of facilities, with a large car park, a designated dining and shopping area, clear visitor information and a state-of-the-art exhibition on the history of the temple and its restoration.


• Some describe Banteay Srei as being closer in architecture and decoration to Indian models than any other temple at Angkor: A special feature of the exquisite decoration was the use of that hard pink sandstone, which enabled the "technique of sandalwood carving with even an Indian scent to it."


• Banteay Srei was so well preserved that archaeologists initially thought it was 400 years younger: Before the foundation stele was discovered in 1936, it was assumed that the temple was from a much later date (almost 1300 AD) because of the refinement of its ornamentations.


• Banteay Srei used to have a moat: Its third enclosure consists of a wall, about 330 feet long, that enclosed a moat, which is now dry.

See Banteay Srei during our Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Cambodia & Vietnam adventure.