In the video above, navigate Istanbul’s labyrinthine Spice Bazaar with Ulas Esiyok, Trip Experience Leader for The Aegean Islands, Athens & Istanbul in search of fragrant seasonings, delectable treats, glittering jewelry, and the finest Turkish coffee.
Navigating the fragrant, colorful stalls of Istanbul’s famous bazaars can be overwhelming—but not when you have a local Trip Experience Leader like Ulas to offer guidance. We asked him to tell us more about making the most of this one-of-a-kind shopping opportunity.
O.A.T.: What spices or local food items are the most popular for travelers to bring home—either as souvenirs or gifts?
Ulas Esiyok:The most popular spice to bring home is saffron. [As the shopkeeper explains in the video above, the best saffron in the world is Persian saffron, which is harvested in Iran—not Turkey.] The most popular local food items are Turkish delight and baklava.
O.A.T.: What are the biggest differences between the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar?
U.E.: The Grand Bazaar is much larger and older than the Spice Bazaar. The Spice Bazaar is more local and authentic than the Grand Bazaar. There are 66 streets in the Grand Bazaar but there are only two streets in the Spice Bazaar.
O.A.T.: Do you have any tips for navigating the bazaars without getting lost?
U.E.: I always show the first and the main gates of the bazaar (gate number 1) and there are historical mosques in front of the main gates of both bazaars. They are great landmarks.
O.A.T.: What are your favorite Turkish dishes to eat or prepare with local spices?
U.E.: My favorite Turkish dish to eat is Turkish kebabs with Ottoman spice—a mixed spice blend that can include paprika, sumac, chili pepper, coriander, and saffron.
O.A.T.: In your video, you recommend a popular coffee shop. How does Turkish coffee differ in flavor from what Americans are used to?
U.E.: Turkish coffee is much stronger and often sweeter than American coffee. It has a dark, intense aroma and a thick creamy texture, due to the fine grounds that settle to the bottom. American coffee is generally lighter, has a clearer liquid, and more aromatic variation depending on brewing method.
O.A.T.: There are so many flavors of Turkish delight! Which is your favorite? And do you have particular brands you recommend?
U.E.: My favorite Turkish delight is the one with almond and pistachios. I also like the double-roasted one. The best Turkish delights are actually the freshly-made, unbranded ones, which you can find in every shop in the Spice Bazaar.
Recipe: Lokom (Turkish Delight)
For Americans, sampling lokom, the Turkish name for the aromatic gel candy, might require a trip to the Middle East (or at least a Middle Eastern market). To make the pride of Istanbul at home doesn’t require very many ingredients, but it demands patience: you’ll be stirring for 50 minutes. If you have the time and the Zen attitude, you’ll have an authentic delicacy that will transport you.
A few tips make all the difference in your end result. For one thing, you have to stir in the same direction the whole time, which will affect how the gel sets. When pouring the hot mixture into a pan to cool, grease and flour the pan first, instead of lining it with plastic wrap, as some recipes suggest. It’s nearly impossible to remove the plastic wrap after without slicing off hunks of the candy itself.
- 2 cups granulated sugar
- 3 1/4 cups water (divided into 2 1/2 cups and 3/4 cup), plus a small bowl of cold water
- 1/2 tsp cream of tartar
- 1/4 cup cornstarch, plus 2 Tbsp.
- 1/2 tsp rose water or other flavoring
- Optional: 4 mastic crystals, crushed
- Optional: Food coloring
- 1/4 cup pistachios, roughly chopped
- 1/4 cup almonds, roughly chopped
- 2 Tbsp. confectioner’s sugar
Instruction:
- Fill a small bowl with cold water and keep it on hand.
- Grease and flour a small, rimmed baking sheet (ideally 7x9, but 9x13 will work, affecting only the thickness of the candy).
- Mix sugar, 2 1/2 cups water, and cream of tartar in a heavy cooking pot and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
- Whisk 1/4 cup cornstarch in 3/4 cups water over medium-low heat to make a smooth paste.
- Whisk the paste into the sugar mixture until smooth (which make take a few minutes).
- Switch from whisk to wooden spoon, and stir, raising heat enough to bring the mixture to a boil.
- After the mixture reaches a boil, turn heat to low and stir in one direction for around 50 minutes. When the spoon leaves clear marks on the mixture, test it for readiness.
- Lift out a teaspoon of the mixture and set it in the cold water. If it cools into a firm but pliant lump, you are ready for the next step.
- Stir in the flavorings of choice (orange blossom, rosewater, and vanilla are all common). If desired, add mastic bites for texture and a few drops of food dye for color, stirring and cooking for one minute more, then fold the nuts in last.
- Pour into the prepared tray and smooth the surface. Let rest at room temperature until cool.
- While the lokom rests, mix confectioner’s sugar and 2 tbsp. cornstarch in a shallow bowl.
- Once cooled, cut the candy into cubes, tossing them into the sugar-cornstarch mixture to coat.
- Eat right away or store them for later, but don’t keep them in an airtight container, or they’ll sweat.
Savor both the sweet and savory delights of Turkey when you join O.A.T. for The Aegean Islands, Athens & Istanbul.
