Join Mike Matthew— Trip Experience Leader for O.A.T.’s A South Pacific Odyssey: Australia, the Outback & New Zealand adventure—at his favorite Auckland pub for a local New Zealand specialty, green-lipped mussels, and then follow him into his kitchen to learn how this seafood dish is prepared and served.
In the heart of Auckland, Trip Experience Leader Mike Matthew knows exactly where to send his travelers for an authentic taste of New Zealand. "In New Zealand, I encourage you to be selfish and eat our shellfish while you're here," Mike says with a grin. "The easiest way is to go to the Occidental Pub, get yourself a good meal of mussels and a beer, and then roll yourself back up the hill to the hotel."
Mike Matthew, Trip Experience Leader for O.A.T.’s A South Pacific Odyssey: Australia, the Outback & New Zealand adventure.
The Occidental Belgian Beer Café, nestled in Auckland's bustling Vulcan Lane, embodies centuries of pub tradition adapted for the Pacific. The very concept of the public house arrived in New Zealand with British colonists who recreated their beloved institutions in this distant land. Like their counterparts throughout the Empire, New Zealand pubs evolved into vital community centers, serving as informal banks where workers cashed paychecks, political forums where democracy took root, and entertainment venues hosting everything from boxing matches to traveling theater troupes.
The pub tradition itself stretches back over two millennia, beginning when Romans introduced tabernae to Britain. These establishments evolved through Saxon alehouses and medieval inns into the coaching houses of the Georgian era, where travelers found refreshment and rest. The Industrial Revolution transformed pubs into refuges for urban workers, while Victorian reformers shaped them into respectable social venues with elaborate etched glass and carefully segregated spaces for different classes.
One of the most famous pubs in Dublin is the Temple Bar (established in 1840), which travelers can visit on O.A.T.’s Irish Adventure: Dublin, Belfast & the Northwest Counties adventure.
New Zealand's pub culture developed its own character, profoundly influenced by the infamous "six o'clock swill"—a temperance-inspired law that forced pubs to close at 6 PM from 1915 to 1967. This created a frantic drinking culture as workers rushed to consume their fill between finishing work and closing time, leading to long bars designed for rapid service and tile-covered walls that could be hosed clean. Though these restrictions ended decades ago, they left a profound mark on Kiwi drinking culture and pub architecture.
Today's New Zealand pubs like the Occidental blend this heritage with contemporary sophistication. "The steamed mussels we're most famous for," explains the pub’s employee as he welcomes Mike into the establishment, where a Belgian theme creates a perfect marriage between European brewing tradition and New Zealand's prized seafood. "We've got grilled mussels as well. We've got a lot of seafood on the menu."
The impressive beer selection includes Belgian classics served in traditional glassware, from petite Stella Artois chalices to enormous Hoegaarden glasses that Mike jokes about: "I've had my people get that one before and just looking at it just like, oh my God." In the kitchen, the chef demonstrates the simple preparation that lets the mussels' natural flavor shine. "We've been doing mussels since maybe 20 years ago," he explains, adding onions, celery, and water to the pot.
Green-lipped mussels are a signature Kiwi dish.
The green-lipped mussel (Perna canaliculus) is unique to New Zealand waters, thriving in the country's pristine coastal environments. These bivalves represent both culinary treasure and environmental success story. "They're filter feeders, so they basically are cleaning our harbor," Mike explains. "We've got some pretty clean harbors to begin with, so they're actually doing a good job." New Zealand's mussel farming industry has become a model of sustainable aquaculture, with the shellfish requiring no feed, fertilizers, or chemicals—they simply grow by filtering nutrients from the seawater.
After enjoying the pub's version, Mike heads to a local market to demonstrate home preparation. The accessibility of this delicacy surprises many visitors. "New Zealand mussels are cheap as chips," he notes, purchasing nearly five pounds for just $10.94 NZD. "They cost $6 New Zealand, so that's about $4 US. We farm them."
Back in his kitchen, Mike prepares the mussels with his mother Mary. His method is refreshingly simple: steam the mussels with water for about five minutes, then serve with garlic butter. "Some people would use wine at this step, but I'm not going to waste good wine," he laughs. "I don't notice too much difference in the taste."
Mike demonstrates using an empty shell as a makeshift spoon to scoop up meat and garlic butter, while Mary observes that unopened mussels should be discarded. "According to my mum, it's the best bang for the buck for protein," Mike notes as they share the meal. Mary adds her own tip about moderation: "You only usually eat about five at a time. So, I think you'd better stop."
For vegetarian travelers feeling excluded from this seafood celebration, Mike offers a playful solution: "If you are a vegetarian and can only eat the potatoes, do what I do and call them shell plants. They don't really go anywhere much like plants, they just kind of cling to the rock."
Whether enjoyed in a Belgian-themed pub that honors both local and international traditions, or prepared at home with family, these distinctive shellfish offer visitors a true taste of New Zealand. The Occidental and similar establishments continue the ancient tradition of pubs as gathering places where communities connect, stories flow as freely as drinks, and travelers glimpse authentic local culture.
"There you have it. Green-lipped mussels. Get your lips around them," Mike concludes with characteristic enthusiasm. "This is Mike showing you a little piece of our culture that you can eat."
Try some green-lipped mussels for yourself during O.A.T.’s A South Pacific Odyssey: Australia, the Outback & New Zealand adventure.
