Recipe: Northern Italian Casoncelli (Stuffed Pasta)

While most of us may consider ourselves lovers of Italian food, Italians know that there is no one true cuisine in their country. Rather, there is a unique cuisine for every region, based upon the availability of fresh ingredients and longstanding cultural traditions. In some regions, like Tuscany, bread is the preferred carb over pasta. Similarly, in Northern Italy, pasta often takes a backseat to polenta and risotto—but when it does take center stage, especially in Lombardy, it is usually stuffed … and spectacular.

Casoncelli is a type of ravioli that evolved as a way to use leftovers. The filling, therefore, spoke to the means of the household: wealthier cooks used meat, while humbler kitchens might only use cheese and bread. Today, you’ll also find sweet-and-savory variations using pear, raisins, or crumbled amaretti cookies. Here, we opt for meat and cheese, but feel free to use your imagination. The typical casoncelli shape—indented at the center and pinched at the edges—is said to resemble a wrapped candy. You can opt for any basic ravioli shape if you prefer, and the result will be no less delicious.

Casoncelli alla Bergamasca (Stuffed Pasta Bergamo-Style)

Ingredients

For the pasta:

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 3/4 tsp olive oil
• 3/4 tsp lukewarm water

For the filling:

• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• 1/2 pound Italian sausage, removed from casing
• 1/2 cup mortadella or salami, cubed
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 egg
• 2 Tbsp chopped parsley
• 3/4 cup breadcrumbs
• 2 Tbsp milk
• 3 Tbsp finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• Salt to taste

For the sauce:

• 6 Tbsp unsalted butter
• 4 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 6 sage leaves
• Grated Parmigiano Reggiano, for serving

Preparation

1. To prepare the pasta, combine all ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture begins to form a ball, adding a little water as needed if it seems too dry. Remove dough, form into a ball, and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Knead by hand until the dough becomes smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover with a bowl or towel and allow to rest for 10-15 minutes more.


2. In a skillet or saute pan, heat olive oil over medium-high. Add sausage and cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.


3. To prepare the filling, place sausage, mortadella or salami, garlic, egg, and parsley in the bowl of a food processor. Process until combined. Add breadcrumbs and pulse to combine—the mixture should be slightly coarse. Stir in the milk and cheese and season with a pinch of salt.


4. Using a pasta machine, pass the dough through the rollers beginning with the widest setting. Fold and pass through again 2 or 3 times. Then, begin turning the dial down to the next narrowest setting, passing the dough through without folding. Keep reducing settings until you reach #8—you can cut the dough with a knife and work in batches if it becomes too unwieldy.


5. On one half of the sheet of pasta, place a tablespoon of filling at 2-inch intervals. Brush the edges and between the filling with a little water to help with sealing. Bring the bottom edge of the dough to meet the top edge and press around the filling with your fingers.


6. Using a round pasta cutter or a glass, cut a half-moon shape around each mound of filling.


7. To form into the classic casoncelli shape, stand each half-moon on its edge and use your finger to indent the filling. Pinch the sides and gently draw them toward the center. You should have around 30 pieces.


8. To prepare the sauce, place butter, pancetta, and sage in a skillet over low heat. Cook for 10-15 minutes. The butter will be brown, and the pancetta and sage will crisp. Remove from heat and set aside.


9. Cook the casoncelli in boiling, salted water for 5-6 minutes. In individual bowls, serve 2-3 as an appetizer or 6-7 as a main course. Drizzle with sauce and cheese and serve.

Serves 4-6.

Enjoy the unique flavors of northern Italian cooking during Northern Italy: The Alps, Dolomites & Lombardy.