From 1905 to 1916, Portuguese artist Jorge Colaço covered Estação de São Bento’s atrium with approximately 20,000 azulejos (traditional Portuguese blue ceramic tiles).
Question: Where in the world did a renowned artist decorate a railway station with 20,000 Delft Blue tiles—from floor to ceiling—to tell their nation’s story?
Answer: Estação de São Bento in Porto, Portugal
Porto’s most central (and most famous) train station—Estação de São Bento—is unlike any other in the world: Its atrium is covered in a profound Delft Blue, from floor to ceiling, by approximately 20,000 azulejos (traditional Portuguese blue ceramic tiles). Today, trains pass through Estação de São Bento carrying travelers between Porto and many of its northern suburbs but, unsurprisingly, the majority of those who visit this French Beaux-Arts structure aren’t coming to be shuttled—they’re here to behold these azure, tin-glazed azulejos.
The colorful frieze that attracts so many tourists to Estação de São Bento was painted by renowned artist Jorge Colaço between 1905 and 1916. Colaço’s azulejos depict various scenes from Portuguese history, folklore, and daily life. The north wall features the Battle of Valdevez (1140) and the Conquest of Ceuta (1415)—two significant events in the formation of Portugal as a nation. The south wall showcases the Battle of Arcos de Valdevez and the Egas Moniz before Alfonso VII of Castile. These historical scenes are accompanied by depictions of everyday activities—such as farming, fishing, and dancing.
Beyond the historical scenes and depictions of daily life, Colaço's azulejos also feature allegories representing the four seasons and the virtues of agriculture, commerce, industry, and science. However, one of the most striking elements of Colaço's work is the sheer variety of transportation methods represented in the tiles: From horse-drawn carriages and donkeys to trains and boats, the artist captured the evolution of travel in Portugal over the centuries. The azulejos also pay homage to the country's maritime heritage, with images of ships and navigational instruments—Colaço's nod to the pivotal role Portugal played during the Age of Exploration.
But let’s not forget that the station's granite exterior is undeniably impressive by itself, designed by local Porto architect José Marques da Silva—offering spectacular views to those strolling his hometown’s streets. Boasting a stunning Belle Epoque façade featuring French mansard roofs and stone carvings around windows, it makes total sense that Marques da Silva designed Estação de São Bento while he was still studying in Paris, seeing as it’s a shining example of the French Beaux-Arts style characterized by grandiose decorative details that blend elements of classical Greek and Roman styles with modern materials and techniques.
Before becoming the iconic train station that it is today, the site of Estação de São Bento had a very different purpose: In the 16th century, it was Benedictine Convent of São Bento da Avé Maria, ordered built by King Manuel I of Portugal in 1518. The convent stood for centuries until it was destroyed by a fire in 1783. While Queen Maria I took no delay in having the convent rebuilt, it would eventually fall into a state of disrepair after the last nun passed away in 1892. Subsequently, the monastery was demolished within a year (interestingly, Marques da Silva would incorporate the remnants of the old cloister into the new structure). A project for a building that supported the expansion of Portugal’s railway system was approved in 1903, with construction formally beginning the following year and eventually completed in 1916.
7 Fun Facts About the Estação de São Bento:
- The foundation stone for Estação de São Bento was laid by none other than His Majesty, King Dom Carlos I of Portugal. Unfortunately, King Carlos would be assassinated alongside his son a few years later in 1908, becoming the first Portuguese king to die a violent death in over three centuries. Shockingly, the people of Portugal largely celebrated the regicidal assassins behind King Carlos's untimely demise.
- The azulejos in Estação de São Bento cover an impressive area of approximately 5,930 square feet—to put this into perspective, that's roughly the size of a professional basketball court!
- Creating the stunning azulejos in Estação de São Bento was no small feat for Jorge Colaço, whose work at the station took an astonishing 11 years to complete—the first tiles were displayed on August 13, 1905, and the last were installed as late as 1916.
- As aforementioned, the railway station wasn’t fully completed until 1916. However, the first train arrived at Estação de São Bento as soon as 1896 after the construction of the tunnels which connect the Estação de São Bento with the city’s oldest station—Campanhã Station—were completed.
- The word "azulejo" might sound uniquely Portuguese, but it has its origins in the Arabic language. Derived from the word "al-zulaij," meaning "polished stone," the term reflects the influence of Moorish culture on the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages.
- Estação de São Bento made a Silver Screen appearance in the 1965 British spy film The Spy Who Came in from the Cold starring Richard Burton.
- Over the years, the magnificent Estação de São Bento we know today has undergone several renovations and restorations to maintain its structural integrity and preserve the beauty of its azulejos. In the 1990s, a major restoration project was undertaken to repair damaged tiles and clean the walls so that future generations could continue to admire Colaço's work.
Behold the azulejos within Estação de São Bento during your free time to explore Porto on our Northern Spain & Portugal: Pilgrimage into the Past adventure.
