Getting Close to Buddha

By Howie Axelrod, 34-time traveler from Ashland, MA

I turned the corner and through the windshield saw my 72nd birthday approaching. "No detour ahead!" I wrote myself a prescription for an off the charts adventure. My soul yearned for an experience like no other on planet Earth. I was drawn to the hidden kingdom of Bhutan. The "Land of the Thunder Dragon" would satisfy my soul. A tiny country of 770,000 mostly Buddhists, about the size of Maryland, it is a difficult to reach and rarely visited country, having intentionally isolated itself from the outside world until opening to visitors in 1974. It promised a pure untarnished experience, rich in Buddhist culture, native dress, tradition, and architecture, along with panoramic views ranging from lush rainforests teeming with wildlife, to the barren 25,000-foot snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.

For those who like challenges, a hike to the Tiger’s Nest in this amazing Buddhist nation is THE definitive "Must Do." This 330-year-old Vajrayana Buddhist Himalayan monastery is for Buddhists one of the most sacred sites on Earth. The monastery appears to defy gravity, hanging precipitously off a cliff edge at 10,240 feet above sea level, overlooking the verdant Paro Valley 3,000 feet below. Legend has it that in the 8th century the Indian Buddhist Guru Rinpoche rode to the mountain on the back of a tiger. Inside a cave known today as the Pelphug he spent three years, three months, three days, and three hours in deep meditation.

I had been planning this trip for three years. The first two dates were cancelled due to Covid, but finally it was about to happen. Unfortunately, I was now 75—three years older—three important years. Would this matter? I would soon find out. During those years I never gave up on this dream hike and used this time to stay in shape and strengthen my mental resolve to ultimately reach the Tiger’s Nest.

I decided to dedicate this undertaking to my deceased parents who gave me so much love and sacrificed so much for my well-being, and to bring prayers to Buddha for friends dealing with illness or difficulties. I told others that I would carry something of meaning to them to this holy Buddhist site—perhaps a small piece of jewelry, a photo of a lost loved one, a lock of hair, cremation ashes, or a sealed envelope with prayers, photos, or mementos. Several gave me their envelopes to deliver. This added responsibility beyond my own mission of parental honor. I now had promises to keep and deliveries to make.

A narrow footpath ascends to the consecrated Tiger’s Nest.

Although I was physically and mentally prepared, I harbored lingering doubts as to how my body would react to the altitude of 10,240 feet, where the air would have 33% less breathable oxygen than at sea level. Dragging a few extra Covid pounds with me certainly would not be a plus. I understood from my reading that this would be a difficult, but not impossible undertaking. To hike from 7,280 feet to 10,240 feet and enter one of the most sacred Buddhist sites earth? Yes—I must do this. I WILL do this!

Disclaimer: This article is in no way intended to discourage you from undertaking this hike. It is absolutely my full intent to do the opposite! To undertake this journey, regardless of how far you go, like Bhutan itself, is an immensely rewarding experience.

In actuality, this is not a "climb," but a "hike," albeit a challenging one. No technical skills or specific equipment beyond a walking stick are required. The keys to success are preparation, pacing, and willpower. Your willpower may ultimately be the difference between success and failure. It was for me.

You will begin as the sun rises with a steep 2.1-mile, all up-hill trek starting at 7,280 feet in altitude. Having been in Bhutan for a few days, your body is acclimated to the thinner air and most likely will feel no different than usual. The vertical ascent to the monastery will be 2,960 feet over a distance of 2.1 miles, so this is a physically challenging endeavor. You will finish with a 2.1-mile downhill descent of the same 2,950 feet. At elevation 8,800 feet, one mile into your ascent, there is a beautiful teahouse where you can stop for some hydration, a snack, and a bathroom break. Your first stunning view of the Tiger’s Nest is here, high above you, and yes, still far away. You are less than halfway there at this point, having completed by far the easier half. I was soon to find out just how much easier! Many people choose to make the teahouse the goal of their hike, and it is truly a beautiful and serene place to stop, relax, and enjoy the spectacular view. At the end of the 2.1 mile, all uphill trail you will approach the monastery by first descending 500 stone steps, crossing a ropework bridge, and then ascending 250 more stone steps. Returning, you will descend the same 250 steps, again cross the ropework bridge, and again ascend the same 500 steps, before reconnecting to the trail for the 2.1-mile downhill trek. So, that’s my disclaimer reader. As Ernest Hemingway would say, "Well there you have it!"

Buddhist prayer flags hang from trees in the Himalayan mountains.

On October 16th, I completed the 4.2-mile round trip hike to the Tiger's Nest in in seven hours (3.5 hours up, 3 hours down, and 1/2 hour inside). As the sun rose on that morning It was 48 degrees, and I was dressed in four thermal layers. A magnificent coral and blue sky, clean crisp air, and hot coffee bolstered my confidence. A large brightly colored water-powered prayer wheel at the trailhead calmed my nerves. Buddhist prayer flags hung from the trees. I embraced the stillness of the Himalayan mountains. My mind was clear, and my body felt electrified. After craving and dreaming about this moment every day for three years, it had finally arrived! I felt ready.

We started out as a group with one guide at the front and one at the rear. We soon began to separate as faster hikers moved to the front. Our entire group of ten reached the teahouse in just over an hour. It is here where I got my first view of the Tiger’s Nest, seeming to defy gravity, "glued" to the cliff high above. It is a spectacular sight that I will never forget. At the teahouse I used the bathroom, inhaled some cookies, and chugged the delicious hot tea. I did not want to rest, fearing that that if I sat and my body began to cool, and I might not continue. I decided to push upward without rest. I signaled to my guide that I was heading out. He understood.

As I journeyed upward more Buddhist prayer flags welcomed me. The steep ascent was taxing and consisted of inclines of as much as 50 degrees. It now seemed that there was no part of the trail that was flat. I trekked over scattered boulders and downed trees and gingerly stepped from rock to rock to cross rushing mountain streams. My body felt supercharged, and I was hitting my stride. I was determined, and moving at a strong pace, but too aggressive, as my guide, Tashi, told me to slow down, or I would be out of energy when I needed it most. I throttled back.

At the end of the actual 2.1-mile uphill trail I saw the unbelievable Tiger’s Nest, now within striking distance. No turning back now. I descended the 500 stone steps and followed by climbing the 250 uphill stone steps. I was now struggling. I mentally dug in, steeled myself, and kept repeating my mantra: "Climb, climb, climb. Climb, climb, climb." It was now 10am and the temperature had risen to over 70 degrees. I was sweating profusely and stripped off two thermal layers. My spirit was soaring, and every glimpse of the Tiger’s Nest increased my determination. If I could see it, I could reach it! "Climb, climb, climb."

Howie felt physically exhausted when he reached the Tiger’s Nest, but also spiritually exhilarated.

Upon reaching the monastery’s massive entry door my exhaustion evaporated. I felt recharged. It was an electrifying and spiritually moving moment that will always be a part of me. Tashi and I removed our shoes and entered the holy monastery. The magnificence inside defies words. Large gold Buddha figures sparkled in the filtered morning light. Glass cases with holy items, relics, and ancient scrolls and texts beckoned me to examine them. The walls were covered with brightly covered tapestries and hand-painted murals depicting Buddhist life and stories. I was mesmerized. The air smelled of incense and the only sound was the soft hum of monks chanting. I was witnessing in its essence holy Buddhist life and beauty in its purest form.

This monastery is a sacred site for Buddhists all around the world.

I placed my deliverables in the Pelphug, which is the cave where the Guru Rimpoche had meditated in the 8th century. This cave is considered to be the most scared part of the temple. Perhaps these are with Buddha now. Before leaving I lit prayer candles to thank Buddha for getting me here and asked for a safe return. Tashi and I embraced. Tears were streaming down my face.

Returning, I reversed the process. The final 500 uphill steps before reconnecting to the trail for the 2.1-mile downhill trek were exhausting. I was gasping for air and needed to rest every five to ten steps to catch my breath. The thinner air and fatigue setting in made each step a challenge. The Nikon in my backpack now felt like a bowling ball. I was running out of steam. The temperature had increased considerably, and I stripped off another layer. I could hear my heart pounding in my ears. I silently prayed to Buddha for strength and focused on simply putting one foot in front of the other. I summoned my other mantra, "All downhill after this—All downhill after this." The only stop on my descent was at small shrine at 9,400 feet where I hung Buddhist prayer flags to honor my parents. It was an emotional moment and I cried again.

The last downhill hour was a blur. I only remember not understanding why I had not yet reached the trailhead, and Tashi offering encouragement and continuing to tell me to watch where I was putting my feet. Perhaps I was stumbling at this point, being carried downhill by gravity alone. A troop of screeching monkeys passed in the trees making a racket. Were they laughing at me or attempting to encourage me? I took it as a victory cheer.

I finished completely exhausted but mentally and spiritually exhilarated. My Tiger’s Nest journey was one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. I had visited another world and returned safely and spiritually enriched. During my most difficult moments I could feel the love and encouragement of my deceased parents and those friends who said prayers for me and wished me a safe journey. Their presence was palpable. They were there with me.

Howard Axelrod is a resident of Ashland, Massachusetts, travel photographer, writer, and former high technology executive. He has photographed in 93 countries on six continents.

Make the hike up to the Tiger's Nest on the Bhutan: The Last Shangri-La pre-trip extension of our Heart of India adventure.