Where in the World?

Question: Where in the world can you find a waterfall that nearly claimed the life of a famous author in a dramatic double plane crash?

Answer: Murchison Falls in Uganda.

In the heart of Uganda, Murchison Falls puts the raw power of nature on display. Here, the Victoria Nile River—typically hundreds of feet wide—is forced through a narrow rocky gorge merely 23 feet across. This geological bottleneck creates one of the most intense hydraulic displays on Earth, with water gushing through at an astounding rate of 11,000 cubic feet per second.

The falls, named after Sir Roderick Murchison (a 19th-century president of the Royal Geographical Society), are the centerpiece of Murchison Falls National Park. Established in 1952, this vast reserve is Uganda's largest national park and a sanctuary for an impressive array of African wildlife. Visitors can encounter lions stalking the savanna, herds of elephants roaming freely, and over 500 bird species soaring overhead. The park's diverse ecosystems—from acacia-dotted grasslands to lush riverine forests—support a breathtaking variety of flora and fauna.

This natural wonder has not just shaped the landscape but has also left its mark on human history, most notably in the form of Ernest Hemingway's infamous brush with death. Hemingway—already enamored with Africa after his 1933 safari which inspired Green Hills of Africa—found himself in a precarious situation on January 23, 1954. Flying low over Murchison Falls in a Cessna-180, the pilot's daring maneuver to get a closer look at the falls went awry when the plane's rear snagged a telephone wire.

The resulting crash-landing—while not immediately life-threatening—left Hemingway, his wife, and the pilot stranded in the African bush. They set up camp with meager provisions: a few Carlsberg beers, a bottle of scotch, some apples, and a handful of biscuits. As news of the crash spread, the world briefly mourned the supposed death of the literary giant.

In a twist of fate that seems almost too dramatic to be true, Hemingway's ordeal was far from over. After being located, a rescue plane was dispatched. However, this plane also crashed upon takeoff. Unlike the first accident, the second crash left Hemingway with severe injuries: a concussion, scalp wound, double-vision, hearing loss, crushed vertebrae, and damage to multiple internal organs including a ruptured liver, spleen, and kidney.

Of course, Hemingway lived to tell the tale. He even had the surreal experience of reading his own obituary while recovering at the New Stanley Hotel in Nairobi. However, the injuries he sustained in this double crash are believed by some to have contributed to his later health issues, severe bouts of depression, and eventual suicide.

Today, Murchison Falls is a sought after premier tourist destination for O.A.T. travelers, offering visitors a chance to witness the power of nature up close and perhaps reflect on the dramatic events that have unfolded in its vicinity. The best time to visit is from December to February when the weather is milder and the trails more accessible. However, die-hard wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers often brave the rainy seasons (March to May and October to November) for unique sighting opportunities.

3 Fun Facts About Murchison Falls:

• Murchison Falls had a brief name change: During the regime of Idi Amin in the 1970s, the name was changed to Kabalega Falls in honor of the Omukama (King) Kabalega of Bunyoro. Idi Amin was largely considered one of the most brutal despots in modern world history. After his downfall, the name reverted to Murchison Falls, but it’s still sometimes referred to as Kabalega Falls.


• Hollywood came to Murchison Falls in the 50s: Hemingway wasn't the only connection between Murchison Falls and Western popular culture. Just a few years before his ill-fated flight, the 1951 film The African Queen, starring Humphrey Bogart (he would win his only Oscar for his performance), was filmed on Lake Albert and the Nile in Murchison Falls National Park. This production was a British-American adventure film adapted from the 1935 novel of the same name by C. S. Forester. On top of Bogart winning an Oscar, The African Queen was selected for preservation in the United States National Film Registry in 1994 and the Library of Congress deemed it "culturally, historically or aesthetically significant."


• Murchison Falls is the largest waterfall on the Nile River: Murchison Falls is the largest waterfall found along any of the various branches of the Nile River, and one of the largest waterfalls in Africa by volume.

Experience the breathtaking Murchison Falls, site of Ernest Hemingway's famous double plane crash, on our Uganda: The Pearl of Africa Revealed post-trip extension to our New! Kenya & Tanzania Safari: Masai Mara to the Serengeti adventure.