Where in the World?

Question: Where can you find this desert of tears that rewards creative photographers with optical illusions?

Answer: The Uyuni Salt Flat, Bolivia

Measuring an astounding 4,633 square miles, the world’s largest salt desert was created by the retreat of a prehistoric salt lake that once covered most of Bolivia. As it dried up, the lake left behind two smaller lakes—Poopo and Uru Uru—and an estimated ten billion tons of salt.

The indigenous Andean people have a more poetic explanation for how this starkly stunning natural wonder came to be: Three giants named Tunupa, Kusku, and Kusina once lived on the outskirts of Uyuni. Tunupa and Kusku were married and had a son together, but Kusku betrayed his wife and ran away with Kusina. Tunupa’s tears created the salt flat, and the three giants became the mountains that surround them.

The desert’s salt crust ranges in thickness from several inches to around 30 feet in the center, with mud and brine resting underneath the surface—which is called a "flat" for good reason: across the entire desert, the altitude never varies by more than three feet. A drive onto this shimmering expanse offers unforgettable perspectives that draw photographers from all over the world.

While nothingness may be the main attraction of the Uyuni Salt Flat, there’s a lot more in this desert than initially meets the eye:

• A change of scenery: The salt flat is punctuated by a few "islands" in the center, formed by the tops of ancient volcanoes that were once submerged by the prehistoric lake. Cacti and shrubs grow on their coral-like surface—rare signs of life in an otherwise bleak landscape.
• Frisky flamingos: Another exception to the general rule of lifelessness: three species of South American flamingoes flock to Uyuni’s lakes and lagoons to breed each November. About 80 other bird species can also be found passing through.
• To mine, or not to mine: In addition to salt, the flat contains deposits of several minerals: potassium, magnesium, borax, and lithium. Bolivia is home to around 43% of the world’s lithium reserves, most of which lies in reservoirs underneath Uyuni’s surface. For years, Bolivia has struggled with the conundrum of whether to allow other countries to mine its lithium, concerned about the impact it might have on this precious ecosystem.
• Beam me up: By measuring and mapping tiny changes in elevation within such a flat expanse, researchers—including NASA—have used Uyuni to calibrate satellites. This can also be done by bouncing signals off the surface of the ocean, but interference from tides and waves can impact accuracy, making Uyuni the preferable location.
• Mirror, mirror: When the flat is covered with water, it transforms into a giant mirror—which makes it nearly impossible to tell where the salt ends and the sky begins. Clever photographers take advantage of this illusion during the wet season in March and April—though aside from the photographic opportunities, the climate is much more desirable in July through October. Whatever the season, you can play photographic tricks with perspective at Uyuni: the land is so flat, distant objects—or people—appear much closer than they actually are … and vice versa. Popular shots feature people in the foreground looking like giants, or toys looking larger than life-sized next to miniature humans in the background.
• A salty stay: Given the obvious dearth of construction materials, enterprising architects have made the most of the only natural resource available by building hotels out of salt. Depending on the hotel, everything from the walls to the tables and beds might be carved from the mineral.

Visit Uyuni during the Bolivia’s Culture & Landscapes: La Paz to the Uyuni Salt Flats post-trip extension to our New! Peru’s Nazca Lines & Amazon Rain Forest adventure.