Diana’s journey through Northern Italy brought her to the beautiful coastal town of Monterosso—one of the five villages of Cinque Terre.
Diana began her Northern Italy adventure with a pre-trip extension to Genoa and the Cinque Terre. She recently compiled writings from 52 journeys in a book called Connecting with the World available on Lulu.com.
By Diana White, 22-time traveler from Spring, TX
June 17—Genoa
The first day of a new adventure. I meet Lorenzo, tour leader of the pre-trip, in the lobby at 9am. We start a walk in the old part of the city taking narrow streets to head to the Cathedral. As we are walking a local woman starts talking with us. She says she is on her way to a church and can show it to us. She is Mimma, originally from Milan. What a delight we had in store for us! We went to the Basilica Santa Maria delle Vigne (first time also for Lorenzo). She took us into two sacristies, behind the main altar and chapel to the Virgin, showed us altar cloths from the 16th century and an altar to the Virgin of the Milk. Women wanting to have babies come to pray and after having children come and leave bibs or clothing on each side in gratitude. It was hard to believe our good luck in meeting this woman and beginning the trip with such an unexpected treat.
At this golden altar, women who hope to have children come and pray to the statue of the Virgin of the Milk.
I continue on alone to visit the Cathedral and on to the Via Garibaldi to see the palaces from the 17th century which line each side of this ancient street. It is amazing to see the designs and decorations of these magnificent buildings reflecting the wealth and importance of this city. I feel transported back to those days as I hear a lone guitar player sitting on the side of the street and playing the hauntingly beautiful "Alleluia". How very appropriate to give thanks and to say Alleluia in our hearts for all those who lived here so many years ago and left their inheritance for us to honor and enjoy. As I continue my walk, I still hear Alleluia and I smile.
June 18—Genoa
A blend of the modern and the ancient. At times ancient buildings were lost due to the ravages of time and war and other times to weather and decay. When new structures replaced those that were lost, they were built in a modern style. To my eye many of these lack charm—they are merely functional and seem so strange next to buildings of the past that were constructed with care and a clear intent to make something beautiful that would last. As time softens the strict lines and designs of the new buildings, they seem to take their place next to the buildings that have stood here for so long. They have a purpose and fill in empty spaces that would otherwise be without a structure. It takes both the new and the old to fashion a city that looks both to the past and to the future.
June 19—Monterosso
We head east out of Genoa leaving the city behind and soon are driving through the countryside with trees covering the hillsides. We pass through many tunnels being thankful for the engineering that built them. As we leave the main highway the road descends, with tile roofed houses dotting the hillsides or grouped together in distant valleys. On each side we see terraces on the hillsides designed for agriculture—olive, orange, and lemon trees abound. We pass buildings often painted salmon, yellow, or white. They offer a charming pattern to the scene. We pass through a village with an imposing church in the center, obviously the essential part of the lives of the residents for many years.
The steep hillsides outside of Genoa are lined with olive and citrus trees.
We change to a smaller vehicle for the rest of the journey, and descend hugging the hillside as we approach Monterosso, the first of the five towns of the Cinque Terre we will visit. Its narrow pedestrian streets welcome us, offering many souvenir shops, gelaterias and restaurants. We join throngs of tourists meandering along the main street, stopping occasionally to look at postcards or t-shirts. Few people we pass appear to be locals. Many have on hiking shoes—evidence of their having explored more of the Cinque Terre. We enjoy a delicious lunch in a small restaurant just off the main street. Our first day in a very special part of Italy.
June 20—Monterosso
Colorful wooden boats are docked along the charming village of Vernazza.
We leave Monterosso by small boat early in the morning, thoroughly enjoying the nearly empty streets. The sea is calm and we are entranced at the views of the other villages from the water. As we pass the rock walls we are amazed at the persistence of the cacti and other plants which grow through what seems to us to be impenetrable rock. What a lesson to not give up just because something is difficult!
We stop at Vernazza, the second largest town and enjoy exploring this quaint village. The church in the center of town seems a bit like a fortress and is quite dark inside with stone walls. There is little decoration but definitely a feeling of the faith of the people who have worshipped here for so many years. The muffled sound of the church bell connects us to all the faithful here. We see Corniglia from the boat as there is no harbor. The colored buildings, seemingly stacked together, look like something from a fairy tale. In looking at the fertile terraces in the distance, we appreciate the joining of man with nature which produces the products we associate with Italy.
We get off at Manarola for a walk—sharing the paths with many tourists. The excursion ends in the new part of Monterosso with a delightful lunch at the sailing club overlooking the water. Later three of us climb up to the convent of Capuchin monks and walk through the cemetery with beautifully engraved monuments—nearly all with flowers decorating them. The sea, the terraces, charming buildings and a cemetery honoring family—all part of this most unique part of Italy.
June 21—Monterosso
The multicolored buildings of Vernazza are stacked along the cliff and make for a vibrant walk.
I’m out for an early morning walk, enjoying a cool breeze and the streets without tourists. The garbage collectors have a big job with the piles of plastic garbage bags outside restaurants—evidence of a busy evening last night. Washing is hanging on lines outside of many apartments. Birds are chattering to each other high on trees behind the buildings. I greet those I pass with a smile and "Buon Giorno". A man walking his dog passes, intent on getting in his walk before the heat of the day. Some shop owners open their doors, sweep in front, and start to bring out racks for postcards and magnets. The tempting aroma of focaccia baking fills the air. The ringing of the church bell calls the faithful and signals the beginning of another day.
The long table is made up of small tables painted yellow, blue, and purple. They hold empty wine bottles, carafes of water, and baskets of bread. All are signs of the delicious lunch of local products we enjoyed. The view over the valley is astounding. The soft breeze and the silence combine to make this scene seem magical. Lavender, growing in profusion, makes a great border for a picture of the vineyards and vista in the distance. We are welcomed as family and treated as honored guests. Good food, grown locally and prepared with love and care, together with good wine made from grapes grown here combine to make an unforgettable meal. No one seems anxious to leave—it is all part of such a special part of Italy.
Discover the cultural treasures and enchanting villages and vineyards of Italy during the Italian Riviera, Genoa & the Cinque Terre pre-trip extension to our Northern Italy: The Alps, Dolomites & Lombardy adventure.
