Wherever you go in Sri Lanka’s Dambulla cave complex, an image of Lord Buddha is watching over you.
By Howie A., 24-time traveler and 8-time Vacation Ambassador from Ashland, MA
For those who are considering travelling on O.A.T.’s Soul of India: The Colorful South adventure, the Sri Lanka, (formerly Ceylon) pre-trip is a “must do.” When you hear of Sri Lanka, you probably think of inexpensive clothing items and fine tea and spices. Considered the “Pearl of the Indian Ocean,” I can unequivocally assure you that Sri Lanka is far more than these. This well-designed pre-trip encompasses a vibrant mix of history, culture, breath-taking landscapes, colorful sense-saturating markets, ancient architecture, beautiful flora, and warm friendly people.
With over 70% of Sri Lankans Theravada Buddhists, a heaping portion of Buddhism in its purest and most unadulterated form awaits you. Statues of Buddha from miniature to 135 feet high are seen throughout this peaceful island. We saw several skyscraper-sized ones that towered above the towns and villages from the mountain tops. Their size is almost unfathomable. Lord Buddha is everywhere, protecting you indoors or out 24/7. Figuratively speaking, Buddha is definitely “in the building.”
This 10-story-tall Buddha is the largest on Earth depicting the “Turning the Wheel of the Dharma” pose.
There are far too many amazing Buddhist holy places in Sri Lanka for a single article, but the largest, most unique, and best-preserved ancient heritage landmark is a cave complex known as the Dambulla Cave Temples. The cool, dry atmosphere inside these caves has preserved their treasures in a remarkable fashion throughout the centuries. This religious enclave, which was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1991, has been a destination of sacred pilgrimage for over two thousand years. In the surrounding area, which has been inhabited since the fourth century B.C., there are more than 80 documented religious caves, but none can compare to the magnificence of the five caves of Dambulla. This complex dates to the first century B.C. Several conservation projects are ongoing here to assure this spectacular site remains in pristine condition going forward. It is indeed a national treasure.
Upon arrival to the cave area, your first view is that of the Golden Temple museum which rests at the base of the hill below the main cave complex. This is a newer addition which was completed in the late 1990s. This whimsical structure is centered below a giant ten-story tall carved Buddha statue in the Dharma Chakramudra (Turning the Wheel of the Dharma or Law) pose. This position indicates setting into motion the wheel of Dharma (the cosmic order and teachings of Buddha). It is this posture that the Buddha assumed during his first sermon at Sarnath after achieving enlightenment. This is the largest statue of Buddha in this position on the globe. This awe-inspiring giant sits gracefully atop of a mysteriously smiling golden dragon. Painted bright gold, with fingertips touching and oversized ear lobes, this massive lifelike Buddha exudes tremendous power and an undeniable feeling of protection. You can’t help but be struck by his imposing height and penetrating gaze.
They may be cute, but don’t trust a Toque Macaque too close to your possessions.
To reach the cave complex requires a short hike up trails and pathways, as the caves lie at an elevation of 525 feet above where the trailhead begins. This is not a difficult hike if you take your time, relax and go gently, stopping occasionally to enjoy the spectacular views that surround you. This is how Buddha would have desired it. You will be greeted and followed by many monkeys on your climb, and of course if you give them food, many of their friends and family soon arrive. These are Toque Macaques, and although very cute and not aggressive, they can and do snatch purses, backpacks, cameras, hiking sticks, and the like, so caution is advised. Take a few photos and move on.
Perhaps because tourism is just getting underway on this tranquil island, and the fact that some effort is needed to reach Dambulla, there were very few others here the afternoon we visited. As I entered the first cave in the respectful Buddhist tradition I removed my shoes and socks.
In this single cave, the ceiling is covered by more than 1,500 paintings of Buddha.
Upon looking up I was immediately awestruck. Were my eyes deceiving me? I was staring at a dazzling display of statues and color. All five of the Dambulla cave interiors have individual themes and significance and are painted in brightly-colored murals which cover over 23,000 square feet of area. 23,000 square feet! Try to envision this. What I saw was so unimaginable that it took time for my brain to process it. One cave alone has over 1,500 paintings of Buddha covering the ceiling! The colors are so rich and vibrant that they appear to have been just painted. The soft interior lighting bathes one in the beauty and serenity of Buddhism. I felt immediately at peace. Stories of Buddhist culture and history, and depictions of the life of Buddha are the themes for this stunning and highly detailed artwork. Within these caves there are a total of 153 Buddha statues, three statues of Sri Lankan kings, and four statues of Hindu deities including Vishnu and Ganesh. You are surrounded by the essence of Buddhism depicted in art and sculpture. The statues are in varying sizes and postures. Some appear to be centerpieces while others stand ten abreast.
A 50-foot-long reclining Buddha.
There are many life-size Buddhas in sitting and standing postures, but for me the highlight was a reclining beauty of 50 feet in length. He is a colorfully adorned golden giant with bright ruby lips and oversized feet decorated with flower paintings. As I gazed at him he seemed to communicate with me. I was mesmerized. I couldn’t leave. I was lost in a deep meditative state when I was brought back to the present by my wife’s gentle nudge. She indicated that the group was concerned that I was lost as I had not been seen for a long time. I am not sure how long I was in this trancelike state. My experience here is difficult to explain but was immensely powerful and deeply moving.
The giant reclining Buddha bore ornate decorations, even on the soles of his feet.
The hike back to the base of the hill is easy and gives you time to process what you have just seen and experienced, and of course you will again see many Toque Macaques. As you leave the area, your parting view is of the ten-story golden giant Buddha who seems to wish you a safe and peaceful farewell. The entire experience was magical. For the balance of the day, I felt a remarkable feeling of calmness and mental clarity.
I’ve done my best to describe what I saw and experienced, reader, but perhaps my photographs can tell the story better than my words. Do add Sri Lanka to your “to-do” list. Dambulla is only one of many amazing and memorable experiences that beautiful and tranquil Sri Lanka offers the O.A.T. traveler.
Howard Axelrod is an Ashland, Massachusetts resident, travel photographer, writer, and former high technology executive. He has photographed in 82 countries on six continents and has traveled to 38 of the U.S. states. He is primarily interested in native and tribal cultures, architecture and wildlife, which he feels are all disappearing at an alarming rate. His goal is to document through photographs and writing as much of this as possible, while it still exists. He can be reached at [email protected].
Marvel at the Caves of Dambulla during our Sri Lanka: The Resplendent Island pre-trip extension of Soul of India: The Colorful South.
