Howard’s Hanoi

When 18-time Grand Circle and OAT traveler Howard A. and his wife, Nancy, of Ashland, MA, returned from their Inside Vietnam adventure, Howard immediately shared his favorite memories—and best tips from Hanoi—with his neighbors via an article in the Ashland News. Here are 10 of our favorite suggestions from Howard on enjoying your time in what he calls the "amazing phenomenon that is Vietnam’s Hanoi.

By Howard A., 18-time traveler & 10-time Vacation Ambassador from Ashland, MA

1. Getting around this city of 7.2 million industrious people can be an adventure in itself. There are very few cars other than taxis, and 5.5 million motorbikes rule the road. Be extremely careful crossing streets as there are almost no rules for traffic, and motorbikes come at you from every direction. Do not attempt to bolt across the road; it is impossible. For the first few times, attach yourself to a local. They know what to do since they do this every day.
2.  
3. As a fan of Asian cuisine, I suggest the delicious Vietnamese noodle soups known as "Pho" (pronounced "Phuh"). It is "Vietnam in a bowl." Pho Thin (13 P Lo Duc) is rated by locals as serving the best Pho in Hanoi. Only one dish is available at this restaurant: Pho Bo (beef noodle soup), and a full portion is about $2. Unless you are adept at using chopsticks, bring a few plastic forks for the noodles and vegetables. It is hard not to be amazed here by the massive 40-gallon simmering soup pots and the charcoal-powered "furnace" stove that adorn the open kitchen as you enter.
4.  
5. My cup of tea (no pun intended) is coffee. Vietnam is the second largest coffee exporter in the world, and their quality is excellent. Start at Ha Noi Coffee Time (39 Dinh Tien Hoang). Find your way through the narrow alleyway and up several flights of steep stairs to this 3rd floor establishment. Go immediately to the deck overlooking the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake, which marks the center of Hanoi. Another good choice is Cafe Giang (39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân) for Egg Coffee. I know what you are thinking, but it’s not disgusting, and in fact tastes like coffee candy. An egg white is mixed with sweetened condensed milk and vanilla, and added to the already delicious strong Vietnamese coffee. It is a tasty "must do" while in Hanoi.

1. Walk around the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake, a delightful 45-minute trip. There is a lovely pagoda right in the middle of the lake and it is lit up and spectacular at night. Take a stroll on the red wooden Huc (Morning Sunlight) pedestrian bridge, and visit the attached magnificent Ngoe Son Temple. The walk is an easy one, and you will see locals sitting on benches and talking, as well as men and women, young and old, making use of the outdoor gymnasium—like a local version of California’s Muscle Beach, but in their clothes.
2.  
3. Check out the Old Quarter, which dates back to the 13th century, and is the beehive of local’s commerce in Hanoi. It consists of 70-plus small streets and countless alleys where anything and everything can be bought. Many streets specialize in only a single product sector, and it can be a bit overwhelming. Still, to not see the Old Quarter in Hanoi would be like visiting the Sistine Chapel and not looking up!
4.  
5. My favorite museums are the Museum of Ethnology where you can learn about the 54 indigenous tribal groups that inhabit Vietnam, and the Museum of Women, where a beautiful tribute to the importance of woman in the history of Vietnam is shown in the most reverent and tasteful manner.
6.  
7. Do visit the Temple of Literature, which served as Vietnam’s first university. The temple has survived numerous wars and remains one of Hanoi’s most beautiful sites.
8.  
9. Don’t forget to visit the Hoa Lo Prison, better known to westerners as the "Hanoi Hilton," where U.S. Senator John McCain and many other POWs spent time during the war. Today, it is a fantastic museum and another "must see." Keep in mind, however, that little is left to the imagination here.
10.  
11. For a more uplifting experience, visit the small but beautiful One Pillar Pagoda. The pagoda is considered the symbol for Hanoi and remains one of the city’s most cherished sights. The shrine inside the pagoda is dedicated to the Vietnamese Buddhist deity Quan Am, with her effigy nestled inside. The grounds and tropical gardens provide a peaceful setting in which to relax and contemplate. It is a gathering place for artists and writers who draw inspiration from its splendor and tranquility.
12.  
13. Lastly, but perhaps most importantly, pay your respects to the Godfather of modern Vietnam at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where his body can be viewed. Arrive early since this is a very popular attraction and only a small group of people are allowed to enter the mausoleum at a time. I found this solemn experience to be very moving. "Uncle Ho" is loved throughout the country and his picture is in every schoolroom and public building in Vietnam. Spend some time here to view the Presidential Palace, tour the museum, and enjoy the gardens. It is time well-spent.
14.  

Take Howard’s advice in Hanoi when you join OAT on Inside Vietnam.