When traveler Howard A. explored Rio de Janeiro—pictured here from atop the hill of Mirante Dona Marta—he saw the city’s beautiful beaches and mountainous views, but he also had a unique experience discovering its storied musical history.
By Howard A. 26-time traveler and 11-time Vacation Ambassador from Ashland, MA
Visiting Rio de Janeiro? DO see the beautiful modernist and old colonial architecture. DO walk the magnificent and world-famous Copacabana Beach. DO see the 125-foot-tall Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado Mountain. It is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The views of Rio from this 2,300-foot perch are spectacular. DO take the cable car to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. At 1,300 feet it provides a different but equally exquisite view, this one looking at Rio from across the bay. ALL of these are all absolutely "must do’s". To miss any would be unfortunate. But this article is about an experience that is not on the guidebook menu.
Greats artists in all fields have their regular haunts. From these places they "hold court", share ideas, and draw inspiration for their creations. Henri Toulouse-Lautrec spent his days developing artistic ideas from what he witnessed and experienced in the "seedier" bars of Paris. His works are unique spectacles and reflect both his gift and emotions. Hemingway was known to regularly frequent the Floridita (and a few other bars) in Havana. He "ran the show" there, so to speak. The ideas for many of his greatest works emanated there.
While visiting Rio, Howard and Nancy knew they needed to experience the local hangouts once frequented by their favorite Bossa Nova artists.
Nancy and I are both lovers of Brazilian Bossa Nova Jazz. Singer-songwriters Antônio Carlos Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes are among our favorites. Best known for the wildly popular song "Girl from Ipanema", they provided Brazilian music with an unprecedented and almost instant worldwide audience. We admire and appreciate the gifts of great artists, writers and musicians, and being in the exact same place where their genius once unfolded gives us a greater insight into who they were and what inspired them. It has been our habit over our years of travel to seek these places out. For Jobim and Moraes home-base was a small café near Ipanema Beach in Rio. At Garota de Ipanema Jobim and Moreles were regulars. The ideas for some of the greatest music that ever came out of Brazil has its roots here in this small neighborhood cafe where they spent their days and evenings with friends, colleagues and audience.
A photo of the woman who inspired the song "Girl from Ipanema" hangs in the café and reminds guests of the true story that influenced the tune.
We had travelled 5,000 miles from Boston with a visit to this cafe as an "absolute must do" on our Rio bucket list. Sitting in our hotel lobby at Copacabana Beach we were now less than one mile away. We received general directions from the English-speaking concierge. We chose to walk along the shoreline to Ipanema Beach and then turn inland. The weather was postcard perfect and these two beaches and their picturesque mountainous surroundings are equally and distinctly beautiful. The warm Brazilian sun on our faces silently signaled that today would be an exciting day. We soon arrived at Ipanema and turned inland. On where to go from here, we were unsure.
We spotted a group of men ranging in age from perhaps 18 to 65 conversing with one another outside a small restaurant. Surely these people could help us. I began asking questions using my far less than perfect traveler’s Spanish. I am aware that the language of Brazil is not Spanish but in fact Portuguese. I assumed that being similar, those with whom I spoke would be able to understand me. Not the case, however. As we spoke to the group I asked with a question mark vocal inflection, "Donde esta Café de Ipanema?" I received only heads shaking and quizzical looks. I altered the question slightly hoping for better results. "Donde esta Ipanema Café?" Same puzzled looks. I decided to take a more direct approach as It was becoming clear that they had no idea as to what I was asking. "Ipanema Café—Ipanema Café por favor?" Friendly smiles but no progress. We couldn’t be more than a few blocks from what we had come so far to see. I was beginning to get frustrated. It was clear that these people sincerely wanted to assist us and spoke amongst themselves attempting to piece together what it was that we wanted. No go, however.
I needed a different and more creative approach. An idea quickly came to me and I broke into song.
Tall and tan and young and lovely, the girl from Ipanema goes walking
And when she passes, each one she passes goes—ah
When she walks, she's like a samba that swings so cool and sways so gentle
That when she passes, each one she passes goes—ooh
Dat da dah da dat da dah…
My singing did the trick. They immediately recognized the melody. Almost in unison they spoke "Garota de Ipanema—Garota de Ipanema". Ahh—Garota de Ipanema. Apparently not "Café Ipanema." "Si, Garota de Ipanema, Garota de Ipanema!" The connection had been made and they appreciated my entertainment. As our eyes locked laughter erupted from all of us. There were beautiful megawatt smiles, fingers pointing to the corner and even one man who walked us to the street and gave us hand signals as to how to get there. I thanked them profusely. Once again we laughed together, and there were handshakes and even hugs. We had made a small personal connection. It just felt great!
Written with inspiration from the café, the music and lyrics to the world-famous song now hangs upon the walls of the Garota de Ipanema.
We walked the two blocks to Garota de Ipanema. It is a charming corner café in a lovely tree lined local’s neighborhood, two short blocks from the beach. The walls are decorated with photos of the musical icons of Brazil who were creatively stimulated by this small café and each other and whose genius flourished here. An actual photo of the girl from Ipanema who inspired the song as well as the musical tablature and lyrics adorn the walls. We ordered a pair of cappuccinos and Brazilian pastries and soaked in the ambiance and history.
As we sat and enjoyed our delightful time in this lovely café so far from home, I tried to imagine what it would be like to have been a fly on the wall watching as the warm magical rhythms of Brazil evolved into song propelled by the inspiration of Brazil’s musical luminaries. The spirits of these creative giants are still here—in the air and in the woodwork. The feeling was palpable and undeniable. We savored the warmth and happiness we felt here throughout the rest of our time in Brazil.
The well-known saying is that "the journey is often as good as the destination." Back home in Boston as I reflect upon this and our experiences that beautiful day in magical Rio I realize that for us this was not exactly the case. It was so much more. We enjoyed both the journey and the destination.
Soak up the inspiration of Garota de Ipanema when you travel with O.A.T. on Exploring South America: Rio, Buenos Aires, Patagonia & Chilean Fjord Cruise.
