In the Ecuadorian Amazon, there are no roads, only waterways—so exploration takes place by boat.
When joining our Ultimate Galápagos Exploration & Ecuador’s Amazon Wilds adventure, most travelers have high expectations for the Galápagos—but their time in the remote Amazon jungle takes them pleasantly by surprise. Susan Woodruff, who experienced this adventure earlier this year, had an especially enlightening experience—thanks to her "extraordinary" Trip Experience Leader, Juan.
By Susan Woodruff, 15-time traveler from Norton Shores, MI
The Amazon portion of this trip exceeded my expectations! Our time at the Yarina EcoLodge was really fun. It is a beautiful little encampment with flowers and landscaping that highlight the jungle. There are small cabins where people stay, and mine was very nice. The food in the lodge was terrific! The ceviche and the passion fruit mousse were my favorites. The staff of the lodge were so helpful and sweet. This was a very unique experience, and I think that having three nights there was perfect. I felt like I really understood how people live and their commitment to their country.
An Ambassador for the Jungle: Juan’s Story
Our Trip Experience Leader, Juan, is an activist for the jungle—where he actually grew up. Juan shared much about his family life in a remote part of the Ecuadorian jungle closer to Peru. When we visited the Equator Museum in Quito, there was an exhibit of shrunken heads. Juan told us that his father and grandfather had shrunken heads of their enemies. He also dispelled some myths about the ways of his people: the Shiwiar, one of the remaining Indigenous peoples of Ecuador. About 27% of the population identify as Indigenous to Ecuador. When he was around 17, he met an American who saw his potential and sent him to the U.S. for education. He became proficient in the English language and showed an aptitude for science.
Juan demonstrates a traditional blowgun.
I was amazed with the knowledge Juan had of all living things. He could spot animals, plants, and insects from great distances in a way that only people who lived it could. One vignette he shared with us was when we learned how to shoot a dart blowgun. He and his brothers had to hunt for food when the family got hungry. Indigenous people of the jungle have no concept of breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and hunt when they get hungry. Juan told us that he hunted for several years until he was about to kill a monkey, and it looked him in the eye. He never killed another animal again.
"Walking trees" actually move to be closer to the sun.
As we did our jungle walks, he would share information about plants that were used medicinally and were good for food. It is interesting that he showed us the "walking trees" of the Amazonian jungle. I had never heard of them—but just this week, I saw a video about the walking trees. Traveling opens up awareness that can be drawn on to learn even more. Nothing replaces actually seeing and touching the walking trees in person, but now when I read or hear more about it, I have a visceral experience to attach it to.
Juan met a woman from another tribe, and they married. They began to have children, and Juan faced a difficult decision. He loves that he grew up in the jungle and knows so much about it. He wanted his kids to have the jungle experience as he did, but he also deeply understood the importance and value of education. He said he was a living example of how education can change a life. So Juan and his wife decided to move to another city that was very close to the jungle, but large enough to have a good school system. He takes his family to the jungle regularly so that they can have the best of both worlds.
And believe me … it is a different world. I wonder how in this day and age people can still live almost a subsistence style.
Beating the Heat
The only trepidation or discomfort I had with visiting the jungle was related to the heat. I am a northern gal, so I am not used to extreme heat and humidity. I was mostly afraid of not being able to sleep as there was no air conditioning at Yarina. However, as hot as I got during the day, it was doable. I was tired and sweat-drenched at the end of the day, but it was ALL GOOD! The evenings cooled off enough that I was able to sleep. Each room had a ceiling fan that helped. I would not hesitate to recommend this trip to anyone. I don’t think the heat is probably any worse than in Florida or Texas during the summer. I never saw Juan sweat! I couldn’t get over that.
If you are sensitive to heat, bring a small portable fan. It really helped when I felt like I was overheating. Listen to your body: If uncomfortable, do what you need to do.
An Incredible Biodiversity
Juan shows off an impressive insect.
There are so many different types of bugs in the jungle! Juan often pointed out walking sticks. We saw very large beetles as well. My favorite sighting was the sloths. Juan pointed them out hundreds of feet away while the rest of us just saw a tree! Juan was patient and got us close enough where we could see them. I also loved bird watching—the biodiversity among birds is pretty awesome, too.
It takes a trained eye to spot sloths from afar.
We did an evening canoe ride in a jungle lagoon where he found many different species for us to see and photograph. The sun had set, the air cooled down just a bit and all became still. Juan suggested that we stop talking and just listen to the sounds of the jungle. It was amazing to be so isolated and yet hear the sounds of the insects, birds, and animals. It was another memorable, visceral experience that I will recall the rest of my life.
A Day in the Life
Keeping things moving in low water.
When we left on the Napo River to get to our Day in the Life (about an hour away by river), the river was running quite low. Our boat grounded several times, and most of the guests jumped out and helped push the boat along. You learn to work together in the jungle!
I loved our time at the home of Christina. So many new experiences and sights to see. Christina took us on a walk around the home. She shared how she harvests and makes a variety of items. One of the things she demonstrated was the making of chicha. Also, Juan and one of the male family members taught us about the blowguns and how they are made and used. We each got a chance to blow a dart!
Also, we participated in the making of the meal. I drew the line at eating grubs! However, we had two sisters in our group. One sister dared the other and offered her $50 to eat a live one. She did it! Juan asked me to open a small foil-wrapped package. He said it was "appetizers." Of course, it freaked me out when I opened it: It was the roasted grubs!
Unfortunately, very near the family’s jungle home, we could hear what sounded like construction and trucks. Come to find out, the oil companies are encroaching on the land. The people are subjected to noise pollution that they never had to deal with before. We all thought it was a bit outrageous. Oil is a huge part of the Ecuadorian economy.
A New Understanding
One reason I travel is to learn and understand that people live differently than I do all over the world. Learning the traditions and cultures of other people I feel makes me a better and more understanding person. I love Juan’s story … he loves how he grew up, but he wants more for his children. Isn’t this what most people want? Juan was born in a developing country; I was born in the most developed country in the world. It is so easy to make assumptions and pass judgment. I find myself now holding back to really listen to what people have to say.
Susan enjoying her trip in the Amazon.
Witness the biodiversity of the Ecuadorian Amazon and experience daily life during Ultimate Galápagos Exploration & Ecuador’s Amazon Wilds.
