Paint it Black

Question: When the use of flamboyant colors got out of hand, a law was passed requiring what Italian status symbol be only painted black?

Answer: Gondolas

Henry Fold once said his Model T automobile came in any color the customer wants, as long as it was black. You could say the same thing about the gondolas of Venice. But Ford’s rationale was that black paint was cheap and he wouldn’t have to pause his assembly line to switch colors. Venice did it because they tired of the escalating competition between status-obsessed merchants and noble families as to who had the most lavishly appointed gondola. To put an end to such ostentatious displays of luxury, Venetian officials passed a law in 1562 mandating that gondolas must all be painted a uniform black.

Somewhat ironically, rather than diminishing the appeal of the thousands of gondolas plying the waterways of Venice, the black color introduced an understated elegance to the iconic flat-bottomed boats—one that continues to the present day. But when they were first introduced, gondolas were hardly the sleek, refined vessels that have become the symbol of Venice ...

Ancient gondolas—boring boats born of necessity

Built across a series of islands in a shallow lagoon, Venice faced some unique transportation challenges right from the get-go. With limited dry land and countless waterways separating neighborhoods, how were people to get around? Traditional wheeled vehicles were useless, and it was too expensive to keep building bridges everywhere. Fishermen and merchants, especially, needed something that could navigate the lagoon’s shallow waters without getting stuck. So, the earliest Venetian boats were primitive craft with flat bottomed hulls that allowed them to glide over the sandbanks and mudflats where deeper-hulled boats would run aground.

Thought to be loosely based on the scaula, a slim Roman boat with a flat bottom, the first gondolas made their appearance sometime in the 11th century. They were used for everything from transporting goods between islands and ferrying people to market to bringing fishermen out to productive fishing grounds. Over the centuries, the lagoon environment shaped every aspect of the gondola’s design as it gradually evolved into one of the world’s most recognizable boats.

As Venice became a center of world trade in the 16th century, the city’s population exploded and the gondolas in the crowded canals and lagoons became dramatically longer and narrower, and its ends now jutted out of the water. With its streamlined silhouette, it also became a stylish mode of transport. Newer models were fitted out with increasingly elaborate ornamentation and sumptuous trimmings to appeal to the more affluent population who wished to strut their stuff along the Grand Canal. All of this ostentatious swagger is what prompted Venetian officials to tone down the wild colors by imposing a “sumptuary” law—a measure aimed at tapping the brakes on conspicuous consumption. In addition to the black paint, the law stipulated that gondolas were limited to three metal flourishes in their design–a multi-pronged prow (or “ferro”), a curly rear tail (called a “rico”), and two seahorses.

What happens in the gondola stays in the gondola

By the 17th and 18th centuries, there were some 10,000 gondolas plying the canals of Venice—imagine what that must have looked like compared to the fewer than 400 remaining in active service today. They were often fitted with a small cabin called a felze, which shielded passengers from unfavorable weather and ensured privacy. The cabins had windows with louvered shutters—yes, these were the original “Venetian blinds.”

There was also an unspoken pact between gondoliers and passengers that anything that transpired in the felze would remain private. Not surprisingly, then, the cabins were often used for secret business meetings and romantic trysts.

Lord Byron even alluded to the secret goings on in a gondola’s intimate interior in his 1917 poem Beppo: A Venetian Story, which includes the verse: It glides along the water looking blackly/Just like a coffin clapt in a canoe/Where none can make out what you say or do

Gondolas were still fitted with a felze up to the early part of the 20th century, but with an increase in tourism, a preference for unobstructed views led to their demise. For a few decades, they were replaced by a summer awning (called a tendalin), which could be seen on gondolas as late as the mid-1950s (and even show up in films like 1955’s Summertime).

As anyone who’s been to Venice knows, gondolas still cut quite the elegant figure when you watch them floating down the Grand Canal. You can occasionally spot one in a brighter color, too. Venice does still mandate that they should be painted “a darker color” but most gondoliers prefer sticking with tradition by painting their boats a glossy black. Speaking of gondoliers ...

A gondola is nothing without a gondolier

Nothing says Venice like the iconic iron prow head of a gondola counterbalanced by the gondolier at the stern. While the tricked-out flamboyant vessels of centuries past are no more, today’s gondolas remain elegant with opulent upholstery and understated ornamentation, especially its fèrro, the stylized piece of metal adorning its bow. The gondolier, who stands on an elevated stern for better frontal visibility, is more essential than you may realize. Without a gondolier standing there while rowing backwards or going forward with a single oar, the boat would capsize, spilling all the passengers into the lagoon. The careful positioning of the gondolier acts as a counterweight to stabilize the gondola’s famous asymmetrical design. The gondola’s flat-bottomed hull allows it to be maneuvered sideways when needed. And in case you’re wondering, gondolas are never poled along like a punt—the canals of Venice are too deep for that.

Perhaps to compensate for the restriction on flamboyant colors for their vessels, many gondoliers are known for their charm and outgoing personalities. Along with a wealth of amusing local anecdotes, they also have a firm grasp of gondola history—but not all of them sing, so don’t go assuming your gondolier is going to break out in O Sole Mio.

Venice wasn’t the only place where status-seeking Italians engaged in a bit of one-upmanship. In Sicily, flamboyant colors and detailed ornamentation played a role in a different mode of transport ...

Caretto Siciliano—the painted carts of Sicily

Just like the gondolas of Venice, carretto Siciliano were born of necessity. These two-wheeled horse-drawn carts (or in some rural areas, pulled by donkeys) emerged in the mid-1800s as working vehicles for farmers and merchants across Sicily. Used for hauling wood, bringing produce to market, and—of course—transporting wine, the carts were essential to daily life and were the Ford pick-ups of their time. Made throughout the 1800s and into the 20th century, painted cart popularity peaked in the 1920s, when there were several thousand across the island.

The carretto Siciliano also conveyed a level of status to their owners. And Sicilians being Sicilians and all, a competition developed on who had the fanciest carretto. What started out as a simple wooden cart became one of the most elaborate folk art traditions not just in Italy, but in the world. Teams of skilled local craftsmen—including carpenters, carvers, blacksmiths, and painters—worked together to transform every square inch of the cart into an artistic masterpiece. Everything was either painted, carved, or gilded, from the axles, spokes, and horse harnesses to the hidden undercarriage—which isn’t even visible!

Each province in Sicily had their own style of cart decorations, with brightly colored panels drawn from religion, local life, or Sicilian history, which are occasionally brought out for celebrations and weddings. And the Museo del Carretto Siciliano in Terrasini is home to a large collection of these moving works of art.

As far as Italian status symbols go, however, there’s one modern-day mode of transport that outdoes even the most extravagant gondolas and painted carts for conspicuous consumption ...

The ultimate Italian status symbol—Ferrari & Lamborghini

There’s no bigger way to make an entrance and flaunt your success to the world than arriving somewhere in a Ferrari or Lamborghini, two of Italy’s most prestigious luxury cars. There is nothing subtle or understated about the neon colors that adorn these home-grown legends of the road. Modern Ferrari owners can choose from a brilliant yellow paint finish called Giallo Modena or a metallic orange called Arancio 3 Strati, colors that scream “look at me.”

But when it comes to bold colors that command attention on the street, Lamborghini is the undisputed king. Their palette includes an electric green called Verde Mantis, a lime green called Verde Citrea, and Arancio Borealis, a bright orange that is meant to mimic the fiery tones of a molten sun.

Meanwhile, the rest of us are just green with envy ...

A few more fascinating facts about the legendary gondolas of Venice

• Like the leaning tower—The left side of a gondola is purposely built 10 inches longer than the right side. This asymmetric shape prevents the boat from steering sideways while the gondolier rows from the right.
• Uh oh, what’s this extra piece?—Authentic gondolas are constructed of exactly 280 individual pieces of eight different types of wood: cherry, walnut, mahogany, oak, larch, fir, lime, and elm. A handcrafted gondola represents about 500 hours of labor.
• Do the twist—The distinctive “S” shape of a gondola’s iron prow (called a ferro) is meant to represent the twists and bends of the Grand Canal. The six “teeth” stand for the six districts of Venice and the backward-facing prong symbolizes Giudecca island.
• It’s mostly water weight—Gondolas are heavier than they look. About 35 feet long, each boat weighs more than 1,500 pounds, which is some 13 times heavier than a typical canoe.
• Will I have to parallel park?—Prospective gondoliers must complete 400 hours of training before taking a test to ensure they have the proper skills to operate a gondola. They are also tested on language skills and their knowledge of Venetian landmarks and history. This helps explain why only three or four gondolier licenses are issued each year.
• What, another test?—It’s no joke, but gondoliers have to pass a separate test to see if they qualify to sing to their passengers. This exam tests a prospective gondolier’s vocal ability and knowledge of traditional Venetian songs. Many gondoliers hold only the rowing license, which explains why that romantic serenade you were expecting may not happen.
• Your turn, I did it last time—The hull of a gondola must be treated with a new coat of varnish every 40 days to protect the wood. The boats will last 15 to 20 years with proper maintenance. After that, they can be refinished once and may last another decade.
• Gentlemen, start your oars—With origins dating back to the 13th century, the Regata Storica is an annual boat race that takes place on the first Sunday of September in Venice. Events include a ceremonial parade along the Grand Canal with historic boats manned by Venetians in period costume, and races that showcase the exceptional skills of Venetian oarsmen.
• Those aren’t prison stripes—The striped uniforms of gondoliers aren’t a costume for the tourists. The shirts are rooted in 19th-century Venetian maritime culture and became formally regulated by the governing body of gondola standards. Red and white stripes are usually worn in the summer months, and black and white stripes in the cooler months—but these are the personal preference of the gondolier. As long as they wear stripes, any combination is fine.
• They sing better, too—It only took several centuries, but licenses to row gondolas are now open to females. In 2010, the first gondoliera was Giorgia Boscoto. To date, there are still fewer than 15 gondoliera in Venice, but things always move a bit slower in Italy ...

Perhaps you’ll be serenaded by a gondolier during the Classic Venice post-trip extension to Northern Italy: The Alps, Dolomites & Lombardy.