Walking in the Wild

Exploring southern Africa on foot

by Philip McCluskey, from Dispatches

When many people picture a safari, they see themselves in a rugged four-wheel-drive vehicle, rumbling across the savannah. While this is a dominant—and fascinating—part of most great African adventures, some regions offer another way to discover this prodigious wilderness: the walking safari.

First developed in Zambia and primarily offered in southern Africa, walking safaris offer a completely different experience than their vehicular counterpart. There is something about feeling your feet thump against the earth in this timeless place that brings you closer to its beauty and its wildness. You feel as though you’re not simply viewing the wildlife; you’re entering their world.

Safari guides are experts at tracking animals—after all, they’ve spent years studying and exploring the bush to learn its secrets. Experienced guide Robson Zimbudzi of O.A.T. has some things you can keep in mind.

The most important first step, of course, is finding the right sites to explore. “First, we choose places that are open, so that we can see animals from a distance,” says Robson. “Before starting the walk, some guides will throw ashes in the air to determine the wind direction. That way, if they see an animal, they’ll know which direction to walk so that the animal won’t pick up their scent.”

Once out in the bush, tracking skills become vital in spotting wildlife. And while it might not be the sexiest way to track, animal droppings are certainly one of the most common ways to do so. “We look at the animal droppings on the ground to know which animals have been in the area,” Robson says. “We joke that this is called the ‘bush newspaper.’”

There are a number of things a guide can tell from the “newspaper”: “We can tell whether certain droppings were made by a male or female,” says Robson. “We can tell whether they came from a kudu or an impala, and how long ago the droppings were left.” Droppings can also indicate the age of an animal. As elephants age, for example, their molars wear out, and they are increasingly unable to fully break down plant matter. This results in more fibrous droppings.

Tracks are another great way to find some fascinating creatures in the wilds of southern Africa. If the tracks are clear enough, you can use their size and shape to get a better idea of what species left the mark. “The freshness of the track helps us determine how close the animal is to those footprints,” says Robson.

Wildlife doesn’t need to be moving to leave a trace, however. In areas of shelter (under trees or in shallow caves), you may even see makeshift beds where larger mammals have slept (known as “lays”). If you do, taking note of the shape of the lay may give some indication of which animal slept there.

Another great facet of a walking safari is seeing the more diminutive denizens of the bush. “The famous ‘Little Five’ are the rhino beetle, red-billed buffalo weaver, the ant lion, the elephant shrew, and the leopard tortoise,” says Robson. So named because they mirror (in part) the names of the Big Five, these tiny creatures are a hit on walking safaris—but it’s hard to see them all at once. “The ant lion, elephant shrew, and red-billed buffalo weaver can be seen on a walk throughout the year,” Robson says. “The rhino beetle can only be seen in the wet season, though, and the leopard tortoise can be seen in summer. They hibernate in the cold season.”

The big animals, of course, are still the most memorable. “I remember going on a morning walking safari, and seeing very fresh tracks of elephants,” says Robson. “Within a few seconds, we heard the unmistakable sound of twigs breaking. It was a breeding herd of elephants. We were able to watch it from a distance.”

When you’re out on a walking safari, every new step seems to offer an opportunity for new discoveries like this. And all you have to do is lace up your hiking boots, keep your eyes open, and enjoy the thrill of walking in a wild and wonderful place.

Exploring southern Africa on foot

• Ultimate Africa: Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe Safari

Behind the Lens: On Safari

3 tips to enhance your wildlife photography

by Amanda Morrison and Greg Palmer

In September of 2014, Photo Editor Greg Palmer set off for our Ultimate Africa safari for a 3-week photo shoot. Below, he shares 3 tips you can’t leave home without if you’re the kind of traveler who always packs your camera.

1. “Don’t even think about going on safari without a 400mm lens”

One of the challenges of wildlife photography is that approaching your subject can be dangerous. But you can maintain a safe distance by simply zooming in with this lens. And don’t worry so much about the body of the camera—it’s all about the glass.

2. “Compose in camera”

The best travel photos capture the essence of a destination, and to achieve that in the wild, it can help to think of this formula: animal + habitat. It’s about giving your subject context. In the photo above, that leopard had been resting in the shade, and here he is emerging, intense and unblinking as sunlight bathes his face. His expression is totally fierce on its own, but you can really feel his ferocity against that backdrop of brambles and shadows.

3. “Apply the rule of thirds”

For the uninitiated, here’s a quick summary: If you were to divide a photograph into boxes, 3x3, like tic-tac-toe, your main focus should fall on one of those points where the lines intersect. It’s more aesthetically pleasing when your subject isn’t centered.

Bonus Tip!

“Learn your camera before you leave—not while you’re on your trip”

Sometimes the simplest advice is the easiest to ignore. But when you’re ten feet away from that leopard, knowing how to adjust your lens can be the difference between a decent photo and a great one.

3 tips to enhance your wildlife photography

• Ultimate Africa: Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe Safari