Capital Confusion

from The Inside Scoop

Question: Today, world capitals are easy to find, just look in the countries they govern. But 200 years ago, it wasn’t that simple for one European nation—its capital was located 5,000 miles away … in South America. What European nation was it? And which thriving South American city served as its capital?

Answer: The capital of Portugal was Rio de Janeiro

In late 1807, Napoleon's army was marching toward Portugal, intent on capturing all of Iberia during what would come to be known as the Peninsular War. Fearing for the safety of the royal family, Prince John VI ordered that the entire court be transferred from the capital of Lisbon to the Portuguese colony of Brazil.

The royal court arrived in Rio de Janeiro on March 7, 1808, establishing it as the first (and only) European capital city to ever exist outside of Europe.

As you might imagine, the sudden arrival of nobility had a big impact on the tiny colonial capital. Here are some facts about how Rio de Janeiro—and Brazil in general—were changed by the city’s unprecedented status:

• Eminent domain: Even though Rio de Janeiro had been serving as the colonial capital of Portuguese America since 1763, it was in no way large enough or grand enough to suit royal sensibilities. So the court improvised—much to the chagrin of locals: Residents and shop owners were hastily (and sometimes forcibly) removed from their property to make room for the royal entourage, and wealthier inhabitants willingly gave up their sumptuous accommodations to please the Prince.
• Keeping up with the sovereigns: Property ownership wasn’t all that changed after the royals came to town—the economy was transformed, too. The influx of a huge court called for an increase in food supply—and the influx of expensive, courtly taste turned Rio into a haven for luxury goods. Over time, rent in the city doubled, taxes rose, infrastructure vastly improved, and Rio was imbued with an air of elegance and sophistication.
• Brazil gets a promotion: After the Peninsular War ended in 1814, the leaders of Europe balked at the idea that an ancient royal family would continue to reside outside of Europe and demanded that the Portuguese court return to their native home. But the court was thriving in Rio de Janeiro—and in no hurry to leave. In an effort to appease his monarchical peers, Prince John elevated Brazil's status by forming the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil, and the Algarves. Suddenly, Brazil wasn't just a colony, but a kingdom united to Portugal.
• Goodbye, Rio: Unfortunately for the court, the ploy was ultimately unsuccessful: Leadership in Portugal resented the new status of the much larger colony, and Brazilians were growing more and more eager to govern themselves. So, in 1821, Prince John grudgingly returned to Lisbon, leaving his son, Prince Pedro de Alcantara, to oversee Brazil.
• A new country is born: The course Prince Pedro took may not have been exactly what his father had in mind: Just one year after the court left, Prince Pedro declared the Brazil’s independence from Portugal. Not long after, the Prince was named the first Emperor of Brazil, and he decide to govern the new nation from—where else?—the former capital of Portugal, Rio de Janeiro.

• Exploring South America: Rio, Buenos Aires, Patagonia & Chilean Fjord Cruise

Brazil’s Pantanal Wetlands

A South American paradise for wild animals

for O.A.T.

Near the geographic center of South America in western Brazil, the vast wetland region known simply as “the Pantanal” spans 77,000 square miles—more than 30 times the area of Florida’s Everglades. Most of the rainfall that makes the Pantanal a watery expanse falls during the region’s wet season, between November and March, when the rivers rise and flood low-lying areas, submerging some places by as much as 15 feet. This is followed by a dry season that extends from April through October, when the floodwaters recede and expose large, open areas of grassy savannah that offer some of the best wildlife viewing in South America.

In the Pantanal, you’ll find many of the same tropical animals that inhabit the Amazon rain forest, but instead of being concealed by dense vegetation, they can be spotted in the open by the ponds and streams that serve as their watering holes during the dry season. While wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed, circumstances in the Pantanal are exceptionally good for observing more than 80 species of mammals and 50 kinds of reptiles—so it’s possible to see a large variety of creatures in this expansive natural wonderland.

A land of giants

One mammal that’s a favorite with wildlife enthusiasts is the giant otter. These water-loving animals can grow to more than five feet in length, and they have a wide range of vocal expressions, including whistles, whines, barks, hums, and coos, each with specific meanings. Their inquisitive and playful natures, gregarious social structures, and noisy interactions make them a joy to observe. They haven’t always been popular, however; many indigenous people considered them to be competition for catching fish, and hunted them to the point of endangering them. In recent times, conservation efforts have begun to change attitudes through education and help to preserve the species.

Another “giant” among Pantanal mammals is the giant anteater, the largest of the world’s four anteater species (also called the “ant bear”). Five to seven feet long from the tip of its long snout to the end of its bushy tail, this remarkable creature is equipped with strong front claws for tearing open anthills and termite mounds, and it has a distinctive way of walking with its claws turned under. The collared anteater or southern tamandua is also present in the Pantanal; most often active at night, it is easily distinguished from its larger relative by its tail, which is prehensile (like a monkey’s) rather than bushy.

An abundance of other species

Other Pantanal mammals include the marsh deer, a variety unique to South America that favors watery habitats and is an excellent swimmer; and the Brazilian tapir, a large herbivore that can weigh more than 500 pounds. Capuchin and tamarin monkeys swing through the trees; capybaras and coatimundis roam the edges of the savannah. At the top of the food chain, feline predators including the jaguar and ocelot prowl—though they are elusive and it is a rare privilege to see them.

Although the Pantanal’s array of mammals is impressive, it is a reptile—the crocodilian Yacare caiman—that could serve as the region’s wildlife icon. Millions of caiman inhabit Pantanal waters, far outnumbering the human population of the area. The seven-foot-long Yacare is the most common variety; its diet consists primarily of fish, including piranha, and it is not particularly dangerous to people. Other varieties of caiman are also found in the Pantanal, including the spectacled caiman and the 16-foot black caiman—the largest crocodilian species. And in the region’s waters, a diverse array of turtles and frogs, plus some 260 species of fish, provide food for the caiman and other predators.

The abundance of animals and the favorable terrain for observing them have drawn increasing numbers of wildlife viewers to the Pantanal in recent years. While the area’s natural character faces threats from some human activities, such as dam-building on rivers in the region, awareness of its value as one of the world’s great wildlife habitats is also increasing. The resulting research and conservation efforts may help to keep the Pantanal a paradise for wildlife for years to come.

• Exploring South America: Rio, Buenos Aires, Patagonia & Chilean Fjord Cruise