Sicilian Sweets

Cuccidatini (stuffed cookies)

from Harriet's Corner

In a country renowned for its culinary traditions, no part of Italy rules the dessert quite like Sicily. Influenced by Arab cultures as early as the tenth century, Sicilians are renowned for their sweets, which often incorporate apricots, figs, sugar, citrus, raisins, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon. At no time of year is consuming dessert more popular than Christmas, which makes now a great time to try one of the island’s most iconic treats—cuccidati, fig-stuffed cookies (pronounced goo-ji-data). 

Ingredients:

Filling:

1 cup dried figs, chopped
6 Tbsp. brandy
1 (8-oz.) jar honey
1/4 cup raisins
1/4 cup dates
1/4 cup dried cherries
1/4 cup citron or candied pineapple
1 cup walnut pieces, toasted
1 cup whole, blanched almonds, toasted
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 pinches ground clove
Rind of 1 lemon (remove white pith)
Rind of 1 orange (remove white pith)

Pastry:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup sugar
3/4 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
8 Tbsp. butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
3 eggs (1 whisked with 1 tsp. water, to make an egg wash)
1/4 cup milk

Icing:

1 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 to 2 Tbsp. milk
Colored sprinkles, or small dots

Preparation:

1. To make the filling, combine the figs with 4 tablespoons of brandy and let soak overnight or up to 1 week in a bowl.
2. In a food processor, combine the soaked figs, the remaining 2 tablespoons brandy, and all the remaining filling ingredients. Process until chopped and well combined. Keep chilled until ready to use.
3. To make the pastry, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a food processor and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until it looks like fine crumbs. In a small bowl, whisk together the 2 eggs and milk. While the motor is running, pour the liquid through the feed tube until just combined and a dough is formed. Form the dough into a disk and chill 30 minutes.
4. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough 1/8-inch thick. With a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut out large (3-inch long) almond-shaped pieces from the dough. Transfer the pieces to a sheet pan; then chill.
5. To assemble the cookies, gather the filling, the chilled dough pieces, the egg wash and a pastry brush, and a sharp knife. Paint the edges of the dough pieces with egg wash and place 1 teaspoon of filling shaped into an oval in the center of half the pieces. Top each with a second piece of dough and carefully pinch the edges together to seal. Trim the excess dough from around the edges. If you wish to make them into shapes (crescents or wreaths) do so at this step, and rechill until ready to bake.
6. To bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Brush the top of the cookies with the egg wash. Bake the cookies until lightly golden brown, about 20 minutes.
8. While they are baking, make the icing by whisking together all of the icing ingredients.
9. Toss the cookies with the icing in a plastic resealable bag while they're warm, put them on a plate covered in wax paper, and then drop on your sprinkles. You may also place the icing in a plastic bag and cut a tip off and drizzle the icing on top, then use your cleaned pastry brush to spread the icing before using sprinkles. Make sure to lay parchment or wax paper down on your decorating surface first. Alternately, some cooks leave these cookies plain without icing or sprinkles.

Yield: 5 dozen cookies

Enjoy the sweet delight of these traditional Sicilian cookies—along with the aroma of cinnamon and fruit in your kitchen.

• Sicily's Ancient Landscapes & Timeless Traditions

Sicily: The Soul of Italy

The rise of a unique culture just off the Italian mainland

by Amanda Read, for O.A.T.

‘To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is to not have seen Italy at all, for in Sicily lies the key to everything.’ —Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey

Perhaps Goethe was a bit overzealous when he called Sicily the “key to everything” (or maybe he had enjoyed a bit too much Sicilian wine), but he was certainly on to something. Sicily’s natural beauty, culture, and history are outstanding. But Sicily’s doors don’t necessarily swing open to its visitors as easily as its more well-known Italian neighbors to the north. Like a cautious gambler, the island won’t normally reveal its hand easily. If Venice and Rome are like exquisitely made up divas, then Sicily is the naturally gorgeous girl next door who is blissfully unaware of her charms. Those who dare to unlock Sicily’s mysteries will find an authentic, Old-World Italian island full of life and character—a true diamond in the rough.

Situated in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily lies at the tip of the “boot” of the Italian peninsula. Thanks to its fertile volcanic soils and its advantageous position at the crossroads of Europe’s oldest trade routes, Sicily became a desirable catch for endless invaders and occupiers. Everyone wanted her, and the island became the playground for numerous cultures.

A tumultuous past

The Greeks were the first to be attracted to Sicily’s shores almost 3,000 years ago. Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards followed—just to name a few. Each of these peoples left their unique mark on Sicily, before being pushed out by the next wave of intruders, resulting in one of the most captivating cultural mélanges in the world. Where else can one see ancient Greek temples, Roman amphitheaters, Norman fortresses, and Baroque cathedrals all in one place?

While the cultural treasures left behind by Sicily’s numerous conquerors were certainly a blessing, almost 3,000 years of foreign domination also took its toll on the island. Plundered and subjugated by so many different powers, Sicily ended up a rather poor and impoverished region. Having been exploited for so long, Sicilians built up a strong sense of kinship among themselves while trying to survive in a cruel world, as well as a deep-rooted mistrust of all sorts of government authority. This is originally how the mafia gained a toehold here. Formed as a secret organization to fight against the rulers who had crushed the country and its people for centuries, it later became something more sinister.

Sicily is different

Locals think of themselves as Sicilian first and Italian second; when Sicilians visit the Italian mainland, they are off to “Il Continente.” Although the Strait of Messina separating Sicily from the rest of Italy is only 2.5 miles wide, the cultural gap couldn’t be greater. Sicily seems a world apart.

And speaking about differences: not only does the Sicilian dialect sound distinctly different than those of other parts of Italy, the cuisine here differs even more. The food alone makes a trip here worthwhile. One could consider it the original fusion cuisine—a blend of ingredients from Arab, North African, Greek, Italian, and Spanish traditions to create exquisite and exotic dishes. This diversity makes the Sicilian kitchen the most versatile in the Mediterranean.

Sicily’s rich culinary tradition dates back to when the first Greek colonists arrived here in the eighth century BC. In fact, the very first cookbook in Europe was written in Sicily by the ancient Greek chef Mithoecus. And one of Sicily’s classics, Spaghetti con le Sarde—pasta with sardines, pine nuts, wild fennel, and raisins—is thought to date back to the Arab’s first expedition into Sicily in the year AD 827. The story goes that the army cooks were ordered to forage for food and found sardines at the port, wild fennel from the fields, and raisins drying in the vineyards. Somehow the combination worked.

Perhaps the thing that most distinguishes Sicily from the rest of the country, though, is its people and their unique way of living. Those who enjoy Italy for its warm-hearted people and their joy of life (la dolce vita) will never forget the intensity of the Sicilian experience. It is here where they have truly mastered the sweet art of doing nothing (dolce far niente). Sicily is still authentic, Old World Italy at its best.

The rise of a unique culture just off the Italian mainland

Snack like a Sicilian

Your guide to the island’s best antipasti

by Tom Lepisto

In Italy, antipasti is a variety of tasty tidbits served “before the pasta” in a multi-course meal. And if there’s a spot that’s serving it best, Sicily is a top contender. Here’s what you can look forward to savoring if you find yourself on the island:

Caponata:
This classic, stew-like appetizer has a sweet-and-sour flavor, and is made from sautéed eggplant, tomato sauce, Sicilian olives, onions, capers, celery, and sometimes anchovies.

Polpette di melanzane:

Cooked, shredded eggplant is mixed with eggs, then breaded, fried, and rolled into balls. They’re typically served with tomato sauce.

Carciofi ripieni:
Whole artichokes are stuffed with sautéed garlic and breadcrumbs prior to being steamed. If you want to mix it up, you can fry the hearts and eat them on the side.

Arancinette:
These are a smaller version of arancini (rice balls), blending risotto with pasta sauce or besciamella—the Italian version of béchamel.

Peperoni ripieni:
The baked peppers in this colorful dish are stuffed with pine nuts, currants, and cheeses that can include Caciocavallo and grated Pecorino Romano.

Panelle:
Though simply seasoned with parsley and salt, the chickpea flour gives these fritters a subtly nutty flavor. (It’s best to eat them while they’re hot.)

Frittata:
This omelet-like wonder of layered eggs, cheese, and tomato sauce is often cut into bite-sized squares.

 
Potato croquettes:
Potatoes are a regional staple, and in this dish they’re mashed, pressed into mini logs, breaded with parsley, and fried.

Marinated mushrooms:
Portobellos are sliced and flavor-soaked in wine, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, pepper, and bay leaves.

Your guide to the island’s best antipasti

• Sicily's Ancient Landscapes & Timeless Traditions

Recipe: Arancini di Riso

Courtesy of Epicurious

Ingredients:

3 cups leftover cooked risotto
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, chives, oregano, or basil
1 large egg yolk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 ounces mozzarella or Fontina cheese
All-purpose flour for dredging
Egg wash: 1 large egg whisked with 2 tablespoons cold milk or water
1 cup fresh white bread crumbs
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
2 cups tomato sauce

Preparation:

1. In a large bowl, combine the risotto with the Parmesan, heavy cream, herbs, and egg yolk. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Cut the cheese into 16 cubes. Scoop up about 3 tablespoons of the risotto mixture and pack it around a cube of cheese to make a croquette, a ball the size of a Ping-Pong ball. Repeat to form 16 croquettes.
3. Put the flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs in 3 separate bowls. Dredge the croquettes in the flour, dip in the egg wash, and roll in the bread crumbs. Chill thoroughly, 2-24 hours.
4. Pour oil into a tall pot to a depth of 5 inches. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it registers 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Deep-fry the croquettes in batches, without crowding, until they are evenly browned, 4-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer to paper towels to drain briefly.
5. Serve on a pool of warmed tomato sauce.

Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 24 hours

Servings: 8 appetizer servings

See the experts make arancini in this film: 

Learn how to make traditional arancini di riso with this recipe.

• Sicily's Ancient Landscapes & Timeless Traditions