Bay of Kotor

The 33-mile jewel box of Montenegro

by Philip McClusky, for Grand Circle

The Bay of Kotor’s allure has resulted in more than 2,000 years of a sort of imperial musical chairs: a steady stream of invading armies that take over and are eventually replaced by the next great conqueror. And if you visit, it’s easy to see why the area has been so coveted throughout the centuries.

Although generally referred to as Europe’s southernmost fjord, the bay is technically a submerged river canyon in what is today southwestern Montenegro. Ringed by mountains that are reflected in its placid waters, with idyllic, terra cotta-roofed villages dotting its coastline, it can seem as if every nook of the Bay of Kotor is a postcard scene waiting to be photographed. Add its pleasant climate and strategic location along the Adriatic and the region’s allure is undeniable. So it’s no surprise that a number of kingdoms sought to capture it through the years.

A prized parcel of land and sea

Although small—just a little more than 33 square miles—the bay is a treasure trove of historical significance and local lore. One of the most notable early leaders was Queen Teuta of the Illyrians, who ruled this region in the third century BC. Her reign was heavily dependent upon piracy and levies placed on those entering through Verige Strait, the narrow entrance to the bay. Only a quarter-mile across, this portal left approaching ships vulnerable to attack.

When incoming ships didn’t pay Queen Teuta, they were subject to an elaborate ship-wrecking system created to defend the strait. To this day, the bottom of the bay is strewn with unlucky vessels that ran afoul of Teuta. Later, chains were laced across the entrance to keep nautical aggressors out. In fact, the name of the strait—Verige—is derived from the Slavic word for “chain.”

Queen Teuta’s prosperity drew the attention of the budding Roman Empire, which eventually assumed power here after defeating the Illyrians. It is said the obstinate queen leaped to her death rather than submit to the vanquishers, adding to a legend that still survives in this part of the world today (a depiction of Teuta is on one of Albania’s coins).

The Romans ruled for centuries, establishing what would be the seat of the region and the namesake for the bay itself—Kotor.

"Bride of the Adriatic"

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city of Kotor seems frozen in time. The reputation of this walled city, sheltered by the fjord-like bay, grew over time, eventually coming to be known as the “Bride of the Adriatic.” In the Middle Ages, the schools of architecture and art here were well-respected, and the city became a center of commercial activity and wealth.

The past was prologue, of course, and the success of the city of Kotor once again attracted unwanted attention in the form of voracious empires. From the tenth century onward, the settlement was consecutively under Byzantine, Venetian, Hungarian, French, and Austrian control before becoming part of Yugoslavia. Due in part to the many visiting armies from around the region, there are several unique buildings in this fortified city—including the twelfth-century cathedral built in honor of Kotor’s patron saint, St. Tryphon. Kotor remains one of the best-preserved medieval outposts in the Adriatic, yet it wasn’t the bay’s only region to celebrate success over the years.

Prosperous Perast

Known as the “Pearl of Venetian Baroque,” the town of Perast flourished under the rule of La Serenissimas—or the ancient Serene Republic of Venice. Perast was situated in a strategic location near the Verige Strait; to many, it now feels as though a piece of Venice simply broke away and was placed in the middle of the bay. Perast is home to a number of churches and shrines; one of the most famous is Our Lady of the Rocks, which is found on the spot where some fishermen claim to have seen the Virgin Mary. Local lore holds that the fishermen dropped a stone in the same spot every time they passed, eventually creating the island on which the church rests.

Although this section of Europe is traditionally Eastern Orthodox, reminders of non-Orthodox religions are plentiful here. The Venetians and Austrians left behind their Catholic churches, and the Ottomans have left an Islamic legacy. This mixture of faiths has become an institution, and religious tolerance has become a hallmark not only of Kotor, but of the whole country of Montenegro.

Europe’s newest country

After many centuries of suitors, the Bay of Kotor is now part of Europe’s most recently independent country: Montenegro. Originally one of the six republics that made up Yugoslavia, Montenegro remained tied to Serbia once the Soviet Bloc began to disintegrate. In 2006, the country’s independence from Serbia was put to a vote, and by a mere 2,300 votes, the citizens voted to become an independent state.

Though Montenegro is “new,” its ancient roots add to its compelling character. The Bay of Kotor is a big part of that profile. In fact, the bay has become the country’s most popular region—proving that even many centuries later, it can still draw a crowd.

The 33-mile jewelbox of Montenegro

• Cruising the Adriatic: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina