Macch Picchu, Amazon and Galapago
Published date:
02.19.12
We travelled on a pretrip to Machu Picchu on Nov 3rd, 2011 and spent 7 days there, then went to the Amazon for 5 days and then Galapagos Islands for 9 days. This was a fantastic trip and adventure. There were very few issues that came up and the guides were all superb. The Carmel Hotel in the Miraflores Disctrict of Lima was quite good. Not five star but clean, safe and comfortable. Internet was available as well.
The next morning, the first morning in Lima, we went to the Museo Larco. As we were on our own that day,we decided on this museum after looking at our guide books. It turned out to be a fantastic visit to a wonderful museum, not too large, containing a lot of Precolumbian art. Importantly for us, English was one of the languages used to describe each item. The pieces were quite unique. We ate lunch at the museum café and had an excellent meal only made better by the Pisco sours.
In the afternoon we did a city tour which allowed us to see Lima and some of the landmarks it had to offer. The tour was 30 dollars per person. That night, we went to Café Fresco, walking distance from the hotel; the walk took us through a part of the city with many bars open and people socializing. This restaurant was recommended by the hotel and has excellent ceviche. Be forewarned that this is a touristy place but the food was good (as were the Pisco sours) bu the walk was a great feature of the evening.
We flew the next day to Cusco, over the Andes and I will not soon forget the vista as we banked left and made a U turn into the valley in which Cusco sits. I was concerned that we would never find a flat spot in the hills and mountains below on which to land until we made that turn. It was pretty cool.
Edgar Hernandez met us in Cusco airport. He is a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic individual. He was well organized and had our interests at heart. Water bottles were always available. Restaurants and food was local and superb. At 12,500 feet, we were short of breath in Cusco and so our walks were mostly downhill when we could so arrange it. Coca tea helped with the headaches related to the altitude. Cuscana Beer was also helpful in that regard.
The guided tours of Cusco were excellent. We saw many of the highlights and were taken to weavers of alpaca wool where we learned how to differentiate wool from acrylic etc. In Cusco, we had a meal in the home of a local family and had the opportunity to try cuy, guinea pig. This and morchada were highlights of that meal. There was a lot of food, so do not fill up on the quinoa soup!
Edgar’s knowledge of the history of his country was profound. We really could relate to the Andean natives and Inca when the Spanish came. Because of the difference in living standards between Peru and the US, we understood how this part of the world underwent upheaval by the arrival of the Europeans in a way I found hard to understand in America.
The bus ride out of Cusco to the Sacred Valley was a terrific visual odyssey. We stopped to see the vistas of snow capped Andes and the Urubamba river. We rolled into Urubamba and stopped at an artists home in that town and toured his studio.
The village of Ollantaytambo was next and the name alone creates an aura unto itself. We wandered the streets , marveling at the water channels on the streets, the Inca style masonry and the fort high up on the hill. We arrived at the train station at the Urubamba and Edgar superbly organized the train trip to Aguas Calliente. The train was full but the trip not long. We had always plenty of water and good company and the ride along side the Urubamba was great with rushing water, Spanish moss, epiphytes everywhere
Edgars organizational skills were put to the test again as we got tickets for the bus to MP. And of course, MP was beyond our expectations. Photos do not do it justice. Edgar’s guided tour that afternoon, with MP shrouded in cloud, occasionally relieved by sunlight, was exceptional. The weather would have been terribly hot without the cloud cover so November for us was perfect.
The major disappointment on the entire trip was the hotel at Aquas Calientes. It was called Hanaqpacha Inn. We were able to tolerate it for one night. Others in the group had a similar experience and OAT has known about this dismal place for some time. I wonder why they do not charge a little more for a nicer place in that town. There were no elevators, the bathroom backflow valve was not working n our room so we had a bad odor for the night. The rooms were spartan. One night was tolerable however.
The next day we went at 5 am to take the buses back up to MP for the sunrise and hiked to the Sun gate. This is not a difficult hike but for people with certain conditions might be prohibitive. You need not do this hike. However, the vista from the top looking back over MP is superb. Of course then you have to walk back down! Many of us next went to the Inca Draw Bridge, a trip not for the faint of heart or for those with acrophobia…especially the small stretch of trail down to the end of the trail closest to the bridge where you have a rope bolted to the wall to hang onto!!
Edgar said our goodbyes the next day in Cusco and notified us that he had called the airport to make sure we sat on thecorrect (right) side of the airplane so as to have the better view of the snow capped Andes on our return. This was above the call of duty!
We then flew to Lima and transferred to Quito from Cusco. We were met there by the Guide of ALL Guides.. Patricio Fernandez Salvador. In a word……..if you get him for your tour guide, the trip will be worth worth every penny you paid. He is kind, he is organized, he is sincere, he is educated, he is more than anything one might wish for in a guide. He took us to the Hotel Reina Isabella which is centrally located, used by many tour groups, is comfortable and safe. Many of us wanted to see the Colonial city that evening so we all jumped into cabs (Patricio was off duty but he took us all the same) and we toured the district at night. We then returned to the hotel and went out to have Locro de Papas. Do not miss this soup!
The next day we explored Quito with Patricio. Again the education we received at the hands of Patricio was in depth and covered everything from easy to discuss topics to topics that generally are avoided in such a situation. There were no questions which he would not answer (or that we would not ask). All controversial topics were discussed in great detail.
The trip over the Andes to Coca was another interesting experience. Patricio took us to the airport where we went to, of course, VIP air. This was not in the main airport terminal but a side terminal. Here in the lounge, we had snacks and then boarded the plane, a turbo prop. Luggage weight was limited but as long as we all totaled 20 pounds per person we were OK. Some were over weight and some under but overall we did OK. We left the rest of our luggage in the hotel Reina Isabella and it was safe.
We landed in Coca and the humidity was immediately obvious. We found that the boat to take us up the Napo had been destroyed in a flood the week before so we took a bus. It turned out to be a delightful adventure. Oropendula, treacherous river crossings all added to the excitement. It was here that we had another delightful encounter. This was with our Amazon Guide Juan. I do not recall his last name but it was Juan K. Juan is the Renassiance Man of the Amazon. He grew up in the depths of the Amazon and is intimately in tune with its amazing powers and secrets. He is fit, he is handsome (many of the ladies on the trip so commented), he is educated and speaks English and Spanish very well. He also speaks 5 indigenous languages from different Amazon communities. Juan made the Amazon experience the surprise of this trip. I knew what to expect in Machu Picchu and Galapagos. I had NO IDEA what awaited us in the Amazon. Juan was so knowledgeable and answered and even anticipated our questions. The Yachana Lodge was really a treat , especially after being caught in an absolutely torrential rain while on the river. We walked liked drowned rats to the lodge where we found dry shelter. OAT recommends a waterproof duffel for this part of the voyage. It certainly was important as the rain was incredible and some on the trip had not brought a waterproof bag and the tarpaulins the crew used did not completely keep their stuff dry. During our stay at the lodge, we met Doug McKeenan, the owner of the lodge and we had a few interesting conversations with him and he was an alumnus of the University of Arizona.
The room we had was fine. Not luxurious but comfy beds, showers and all we needed. We were given boots at the lodge- these are used when walking off trail as it prevents chiggers and other nasties. We brought along boot inserts which made the walking better. At that time of year it was not terribly hot and humid. Insects were at a minimum. However in the mornings, with the fog, it was actually chilly.
Food at the lodge was great. We ate many different foods and tasted things like Guanabana etc. On the second day we went to visit the Shaman, Domingo, and his family- this was a great experience. We went to the giant Kapok tree- another highlight. We went to see birds and got photos of the Hoatzin and other birds. Our trip through the Primary forest was eerily beautiful. We learned about much of the flora and fauna of the area. However we did not see many animals (a few black mantled monkeys I think) nor birds overall but we did see a Blue Morpho butterfly in all its glory.
We did tube float down the Napo, a pleasant experience and a nice way to end the visit. That night we did a night walk on the grounds of Yachana Lodge which was quite good seeing varoius frogs and owls and insects.
The next day we flew back to Quito, spent the night washed clothes and repacked. Then we flew to Baltra in the Galapagos. We were met there by Daniel Gordillo who was a superb naturalist and guide. We drove across the island to the ship which was the Carina. The boat was a good size and clean. One of the rooms had been taken apart because previous passengers had put toilet paper and such in the toilet and it overflowed. By later in the day, the room was in perfect shape and no complaints were heard.
The crew on the boat was excellent. Captain Patricio Paredes and his crew were friendly and one could hear them singing in the galley as they prepared food. We felt that were very happy to be working on the vessel. The Panga drivers, Tito and Fabien were also helpful when we got on and off the pangas. At the time of year we went, November, the seas were not rough at all. It is wise to take Dramamine or equivalent just in case. Scopalamine patches might be worthwhile if you have great difficulty with any motion sickness. The rooms on the boat were a good size. There are wetsuits on board for rent (30 dollars for the week) and I would suggest that if you are thin, they might be worth renting. If you have enough body fat, a rash shirt should be adequate. The field trips and snorkeling was terrific. Daniel took great care and was always very observant, pointing out flora and fauna that were right in front of our noses yet invisible to us. We swam with sea turtles, sea lions, a myriad of fish, spotted eagle rays, and sting rays . We saw sharks swimming around the boat in the evening, sea turtle coming up for air, Galapagos penguins and on one occasion three immature Galapagos hawks treated us to a close up, interactive encounter that was phenomenal.
On the return to Quito, we were met at the airport by Patricio Fernandez Salvador who carried a rose for each of the ladies on the tour. The men were not left out…. he had an Ecuadorian chocolate bar for each of us! After going to the hotel, we went to the local Quito market and there we saw a panopoly of local foods including fruits and vegetables and meat. It was a market for the locals and we were the only tourists. Patricio had cards with one word written on it for each of us in Quechua. We were to scour the market for these items and return and explain to the group what we had purchased for one dollar. So we had to explain to the locals in Spanish what we sought, pay for it and get an explanation of what it was used for, It was a wonderful experience for all.
On the last meal of the trip, we went to a Museum named Mindalae which had been closed for us for the evening. We had a personalized tour of the museum then ate a wonderful repast in the lobby. We were with friends by this time as the gropup was close knit and it was a great finale to the vacation. The next day, Patricio made inummerable runs to the airport. We left in the evening and Patricio spent the day with use guiding around the town. He was not on duty with us but spent the time with us. He sought out a music store for us in order for us to buy a Cherango for our son. He was so patient!
Our trip back to the US was fine except that we took the overnight flight, landed in LA at 6 am and had a 6 hour wait for the flight to Arizona. This was in part our fault for not having looked over the intinerary very carefully at the last reiteration.
All in all this was an excellent trip. We were lucky to have great co-travellers and to have the superb guides that we did indeed have. I cannot express to you how Patricio, in Ecuador, was so outstanding. You had to be there.
Things to consider
1. Bring a waterproof duffel for the amazon trip
2. Carry antibiotics and pain medication
3. Pack less than you think you need and take more money
4. In Ecuador, use NEW bills. Bills with tears are rejected.
5. Be careful of dust in your camera
6. Consider insoles for the boots in the Amazon
7. In the Amazon, they give you rubber boots to wear that come up to mid calf
8. Internet is available in hotels, at Yachana Lodge for a few hours a day, in the Harbor at San Cristobal
9. For Galapagos, we wore Hiking boots on the Island, had teva style water shoes for the wet landings which we wore on the Islands. Some Islands are pretty uneven and rocky so hiking boots offered more support
10. Hiking sticks- worth it for me on the Galapagos
11. School supplies are more appreciated than some other things
12. In November we did not encounter too many flying bugs in Amazon so insect repellant was used but not to excess.
13. Bring hand sanitizer
14. Medicatons in Peru and Ecuador do not require a prescription
15. I recommend reading the Mapmakers Wife…it is more than just a story about the wife.
16. I also thought River of Doubt was excellent as it discusses the Natural History of the Amazon basin and is an excellent story.
17. Consider buying Maps of the areas you will be visiting
18. Ecuador is more expensive than Peru
19. Wet suits are available with snorkel gear on the ship to rent for the Galapagos. I got by with a rash shirt in November
20. Sunscreen!
Traveler: Michael Habib from Tucson, AZ traveled
on November 03, 2011
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