Review of Ultimate Africa
Published date:
11.07.11
I fear this review is much too long, but I couldn't get stopped once I began to gush. OAT has my permission to cut.
Ultimate Africa was a fabulous trip. The camps are wonderfully comfortable. The dining and communal areas are large and attractive, and the individual tents are fitted with showers and toilets and very comfortable beds. Every meal was beautifully prepared, delicious and abundant. The pacing was intense, but having traveled so far for a learning experience, I was glad for every opportunity, and did not want too much “down” time. Nevertheless, afternoon rest periods in the tent camps were welcome and necessary.
I am in very good health, yet I wondered ahead of time about my endurance for this adventure, since I am a 76-year old woman with a recent hip replacement. I would characterize Ultimate Africa as a somewhat strenuous trip because of so much travel, yet we were completely coddled all along the way.
The comprehensive and informative materials from OAT arrived in a timely fashion and covered all my questions, including immunizations and medicines needed, clothing requirements and travel documents. Weather for the time of year was included in travel materials. The month of September was simply perfect. We had no rain at all (until the post trip to South Africa) so our safaris and photography were unhindered by weather. It was chilly in the morning, but layering clothing was the answer. By 10 or 11, we had removed our lightweight coats, our sweatshirts and sometimes our long sleeved shirts, leaving just short sleeved T-shirts. All those layers were necessary to start the day and I also recommend lightweight gloves and perhaps a headband. The Jeeps all had blankets which we also used at 7:00 a.m. as we bounced along in the open-air Jeeps. In the afternoon, it probably got into the mid-80s, but it was very dry with absolutely no humidity in September, so it never was oppressive. By evening, I needed a sweatshirt again.
British Airways was excellent. The layover at Heathrow was made comfortable by use of a hotel room at the airport. I used some of the day to make a quick trip into London via the Heathrow Express to enjoy a Big Bus tour.
Three nights in each camp gave us time to settle in, to become familiar with the terrain and to see and photograph many animals “up close and personal.” We were well cared for on travel days by our guide, by drivers, by pilots. During these moves, we were kept informed and carefully herded. Our large green duffel bags were transported for us. Every bus had cold bottles of water and there was always a snack or lunch along the way. Moving from camp to camp and country to country involved some major maneuvering. During one travel day we took eight modes of transport, including two planes, two or three busses, a boat and a couple of Land Rover Jeep rides, with passport stops along the way. All of this was seamless because of our unflappable tour guide, Wallace, who kept all the balls in the air, producing a bus and boat to substitute for a canceled plane in the middle of the day.
Every single driver-guide in each of four tent camps seemed completely knowledgeable concerning wildlife, birds, trees and terrain, and very willing to share his knowledge. And all were cheerful. Though we were banged around on truly horrific dusty, rutted roads, the drivers were considerate of our comfort, slowing down for the really bad spots. Our closeness to the animals was, at first, unnerving, very soon amazing, and ultimately wondrous, and all credit goes to the expert guides for knowing when and how to approach these wild animals, and for instructing us in proper behavior while allowing us to snap some great pictures!
We learned much from the interaction with the guides, primarily about the wildlife and the terrain but, at meals, we sat together and learned even more, as they willingly answered our many questions. My brain is full to overflowing with new and unfamiliar information – like studying for a master’s degree in 17 days.
In our afternoon Learning and Discovery sessions, led by the guides and staff members, there were discussions of many controversial subjects, topics as diverse as the politics of each country, the HIV-AIDS problems, the educational systems and the differing cultures of southern Africa, with the guides and other speakers giving us their perspectives. Because of their openness and willingness to respond to any questions, we felt free to broach a wide range of subjects. I thought I had signed up to see animals; the Learning and Discovery sessions were a dividend I had not expected.
How could our days be strenuous when we were seated in a Land Rover most of the time? To start the day, we were awakened very early. Each day there were two (2) 3-hour game drives; we were always on high alert and many times bumped around “off-road” crunching over small trees and bushes. The game drives were both exhilarating and exhausting, but we always returned to good food and good comradeship, and the experience of living with the animals was a real high! Time off in the middle of the day was needed and appreciated, but usually did not mean a real rest, as there were “smalls” to wash, journals to update, camera shots to review and the necessity of a shower and shampoo to remove the Kalahari sand and savannah dust. Tip: take a small nail brush.
Our visit to Ziga Village in Zimbabwe was a great day. We were invited to the Head Man’s house and given an orientation by his granddaughter – a culturally enlightening session. Just driving through the village with its tidy log fences and thatch houses was informative and eye-opening. We stopped to watch a cow being skinned by locals, and paid a visit to the water-pump, and all the residents were friendly and responsive.
It was exciting to see the buildings and the progress made by Grand Circle Foundation at the Ngamo Primary and Secondary Schools, and then to see the new buildings and changes at Ziga Primary, in the same village. The children walk such long distances and have so little, but were adorable and enthusiastic, and clearly eager to show off what they are learning. And thanks to GCF, they now have a vital water pump for the school, new toilets and several new buildings. It was a heart-warming experience.
Bringing souvenirs for the school and the village seemed a dilemma since we were restricted as to packing weight. One fellow traveler who likes to shop said she brought 10 pounds of presents to leave behind, so that she could buy 10 pounds of souvenirs. One friend brought a dozen T-shirts from the Dollar Store, packed tightly. I took sewing items for the village and school-related items for the primary school, and managed to get all my gifts into the zipper compartment on the front of my duffel, which I never had to open until we got to Ziga village, which is nearby the final tent camp in Zimbabwe.
Having read Travelers’ Reviews before departure, I took the tip about packing a sports bra, and was glad I did. Those washboard roads are tough. Other tips from me: The sandals I took were not practical as they were always filled with sand or dust, even while wearing socks. I only had one other pair of shoes (sneakers) and had to wear them every day. I recommend at least two (or three) good sturdy pairs of very comfortable shoes. Don’t worry about fashion, as your shoes will be dirty all the time. Think comfort.
As suitcase weight is an issue, remember that laundry is offered every day in the tent camps. Four or five T-shirts is enough, with two long sleeved shirts (one in the wash, one on your back), perhaps two sweatshirts (same washing system) and a windbreaker with a hood. Three or four pairs of pants will do fine, some undies and perhaps a scarf or two. Don’t forget a hat for blocking the savannah sun. The Jeeps have a canvas top, but there is still plenty of sun.
I loved my Travel Vest since it negated the necessity of a pocketbook. Mine (Columbia, from PackingLight.net) had 10 pockets outside and two inside, with an extra zipper across the back for a map (Cape Town or London). This sounds confusing and formidable, but I learned to keep my personal stuff on the left side and my travel documents and money on the right. So: left side = sunscreen, bug spray (Zambia only), chapsticklipstick, small comb, tissues; right side = travel documents (inside), small wallet or change purse, binoculars, spiral notebook, pencil or pen (outside). If you are a note taker, as I am, take more than one spiral. On day Four, I lost my spiral out of the back of the Jeep and it was never found. I was glad to have a replacement, as there are no corner stores in the bush.
A backpack is a necessity. You will want to tote a hat or visor, perhaps extra clothing, perhaps a bandana, camera and camera case (big enough for memory cards, batteries, lens wiper, and instruction book). If you don’t wear a vest, you’ll need the backpack for personal stuff and travel documents when you are changing locations. I got a light weight one with several pockets from eBags.com (Everest brand).
Each tent camp had a very sensible method for keeping our money and documents safe. The “green bag” was sealed and locked in front of us, and we reclaimed it from the communal safe when it was time to leave – in order to pay for any souvenirs we purchased, drinks we consumed, and to leave tips (in sealed boxes).
I am glad I took advantage of the Chobe Gift Shop for some jewelry and Linkwasha Lodge for animal carvings, as there are not too many souvenir spots on this trip, and I liked the idea of helping out the local people in these remote places. In Victoria Falls, there were some opportunities for shopping and, for those taking the post-trip to Cape Town, other things in the Market on the Square.
I brought an extra battery for my digital camera (one could be charging while I used the other) and brought 8 memory cards (at a savings online), though I only needed 5 of them. With 750 pix per card, I have far too many pictures (click, click). However, I did not want to delete any while I was traveling, feeling that decisions would be better made on a computer screen (delete, delete). Needless to say, many hours of deciding and deleting has been required since my return. Good fun!
I took a very small extra csrry-on suitcase for our post-trip to South Africa. It was whisked away when we reached Victoria Falls the first time and returned to me at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, after all of our adventures in the tent camps. We really did not need “city clothes” as our safari attire was just fine everywhere in South Africa, although it was nice to have a fresh pair of pants at that stage, and an extra jacketsweatshirt helped to keep out the chill. Cape Town was cooler in September – further from the equator. In this extra bag I took a very small pocketbook, thinking I would not want my backpack or vest in “the city.” It was not necessary; a backpack was fine. Africa is informal.
On the post trip to South Africa, the optional activities seemed pretty hokey to me. I chose to ride an elephant, thinking my grandchildren would be amused by a photo – but it was disappointing and pricey. Others Walked with the Lions, and some went on a Rhino Hunt. I think our gang enjoyed the activities, but I didn’t hear any raves. Those offerings seemed tame and “touristy” after our time in the bush with the “real thing.”
This was a remarkable trip, vivid in memory, yet indescribable. Our proximity to wild animals (their territory, not ours) was extraordinary. Best of all, having truly knowledgeable guides all along the way made each day a blessing and a treasure. Our personal Trip Guide, a Zimbabwean gentleman named Wallace Gwatidzo, was a gem. Wallace went above and beyond our expectations every day, in every situation. When a plane was absent, he arranged a bus and boat – with no delay involved. It seemed he was always working behind the scenes. Wallace was knowledgeable, informative, responsive and unflappable, as well as cheerful, kind and funny. He answered every question and calmed any concerns. He gave us very clear directives ahead of our activities, so we knew what to expect. I hope OAT can hang onto Wallace for a long time.
Traveler: Marjorie Kinkead from Wayne, PA traveled
on August 29, 2011
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