Turkey's Magical Hideaways - October 2011
Published date:
11.19.11
“Turkey’s Magical Hideaways”—a great name for our fabulous 17 day adventure featuring a 4-night cruise on a gulet-style yacht on the Mediterranean Sea.
Marv and I traveled with Overseas Adventure Tours (OAT) to Turkey from October 5-17. We never expected Turkey to be so modern and the people so warm and welcoming. What a truly great adventure we had!
We landed in Istanbul after a 3 ½ drive from our home to Kennedy Airport and then 2 Lufthansa flights. Istanbul is a very unique and modern city where you can partake in all the modern convinces but still enjoy and respect its ancient history and natural beauty. The people make up a “cultural mosaic” of different national, ethnic, cultural and religious origins.
We were thrilled to be able to stay in Istanbul for three days. It is the largest city in Turkey, and though it is not the capital, it is the leading industrial, commercial and cultural center of the country. At a population of near 13 million, this city is not the place to be traveling in a car or bus when people get out of work at 5PM!
99% of the population in Istanbul is Moslem yet Turkey is a secular state and people have freedom to choose their religion and beliefs. No one is forced to participate in any religious ceremonies. The Turkish people have a strong belief in their Moslem Religion but are free to go to Mosque when they can. Women and men dress in very modern styles.
Our Turkish tour leader, Nesrin Ulupinar, was an absolute delight. She laughed at all Marv’s jokes, did a fantastic job organizing us each day, led some great hikes, and gave us a superb knowledge of her Turkey through her eyes and young experiences. We will truly be indebted to Nesrin for helping to make this trip one of our favorite OAT travel experiences.
Our first full day in Istanbul was spent at the Topkapi Palace, The Hippodrome, The Blue Mosque, The Grand Bazaar, and the Suleiman Mosque. What spectacular treasures these are for the Turkish people and for all who are fortunate to see them.
We began our Istanbul journey with a visit to the Topkapi Palace. Mehmet the Conqueror began building this palace in 1459, and it served as the royal palace of the Ottoman Sultans until 1853. The treasury section caught my attention. It houses the Kasikci Diamond with its 86 carats and the Topkapi Dagger which is ornamented with valuable emerald pieces. Marv’s attention was directed to The Harem Courtyard and then to the Earth Geocache!
As we walked from the Palace to the Blue Mosque, we strolled along the old Hippodrome area and could almost visualize the chariot races that once took place there in front of 100,000 spectators!
The Blue Mosque takes its name from the interior blue 23,000 tiles. As one of the most famous religious buildings in the world, its 6 symmetrical soaring minarets make it a very defining element in the Istanbul skyline.
Our next stop was to the Grand Bazaar with its 6,300 shops—Marv knows that because he counted everyone of them while I did some serious shopping!!! This bazaar has a labyrinth of streets covered by painted vaults and lined with booth-like shops. It was easy to get lost in here!
Our final stop for the day was at the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent. This Mosque is considered to be the largest and the most Imperial of mosque-filled Istanbul.
Our second full day in Istanbul was spent at the historic Hagia Sophia, whose magnificent dome was once the architectural wonder of the Byzantine world. Today’s Hagia Sophia is the third building built in the same place. The first two were churches that burned down in 404 and 532AD. The third church is Hagia Sophia, and it served as a church for over 900 years and then as a mosque for almost 500 years. Today it serves as a museum with both Christian and Islamic elements inside.
Next we walked across the street to see the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground water cistern laid out under Justinian in 532AD. After eating a pizza for lunch, we explored the very crowded Spice Bazaar with many colorful spices that spiked our senses.
From the Spice Bazaar we walked a short distance and boarded our very own boat which took us on an hour and a half relaxing cruise on the Bosphorus, a narrow strait between Europe and Asia connecting the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea. Along both shores we saw many attractions including ancient ruins, expensive waterfront homes, picturesque villages and the very impressive Dolmabuhche Palace consisting of 285 room, 46 halls, and 600 paintings! Glad I don’t have to clean that place!
Our last stop for the day was along Istikal Street. This was our second time back to this pedestrian street as our hotel is just a few blocks away. We so enjoyed watching the people, seeing the trendy bars, numerous shops and very stylish restaurants.
After taking an early morning flight from Istanbul to Izmir on the Aegean Sea, we drove to a small village where we had a question and answer session with the local Mayor. We were then hosted to an authentic Turkish lunch with a Turkish family in their own home. It was fun communicating with them using a website that converted our American words into Turkish and vise versa.
As we drove to Kusadasi, we saw olive and cherry orchards and pomegranate and mandarin fields. After arriving at the Kismet Hotel, we were shown to our rooms. As we entered our room, we were greeted to a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea from our balcony. We stayed two nights here and so enjoyed the Turkish buffet specialties with their unique tastes and many healthy vegetables.
The next day was a very rainy day with some torrential downpours at some of our stops! Nesrin decided we should try to stay dry so our first stop was a journey through 2,000 years of history at the Ephesus Museum. Marble and bronze statues and frescoes from Ephesus were beautifully displayed along with exhibits of a sculptured Artemus (Goddess of Fertility & Protection), jewels, and artifacts.
When we left the museum, it was raining lightly so Nesrin decided we should next view the ruins of the 6th century Basilica of St. John who is thought to be buried here. It is also believed that St. John might have written the Fourth Gospel of the Bible while residing in Ephesus.
After a downpour at the Basilica, we boarded our bus and headed up several large hills passing by grape fields and more olive trees to arrive at our lunch restaurant. This was in a very small village where we had to walk up the cobblestone streets and paths to arrive at our restaurant which served delicious cheese and whatever pancakes. Great lunch but as we walked back down those cobblestone streets and paths, another outburst of rain from Mother Nature caused the paths to become almost impassible and a little slippery. Our hardy group walked down very gingerly and made the best of this miserable weather. At least it wasn’t ice or snow!!!
With wet feet and some of us with wet bodies, we reached our bus and traveled back down the hills to the world-famous ancient Greco-Roman site of Ephesus. This is one of the largest and best preserved ancient cities in the world.
We walked on the remarkably well preserved, wide marble streets in Ephesus. We could see where once stood columns, temples, and statues of civic notables. We continued on to see the Temple of Hadrian, private homes with their terraces, the brothel, and the agora or market place with some mosaics still intact.
The Library of Celsius was very impressive. It was built in 135AD and is one of the largest libraries and most graceful surviving buildings of antiquity. We climbed up the stairs to check out the four statues: Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intellect), and Episteme (knowledge). A gymnasium for male students and classrooms were just above the library.
The Theatre was so spectacular! There were three tiers. The first tier was for the nobles and rich people. This amphitheater is the same one where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians!
Also saw “modern day toilets” for men only! Water flushed down “here” from the baths above to clean out toilet “debris”!
We left Ephesus the next morning and drove to a Turkish Carpet Warehouse. We had decided before our trip to Turkey that we would look but not buy. Well…when you visit us at our home, you just might find a really nice (Turkish) rug in our living room AND another smaller area rug downstairs in our recreation room.
Traveled onward to Gocak where we boarded our Turkish gulet-style “yacht” for the next four nights. The heavy rains continued to pound us as we ate at a small table inside as our crew members watched a soccer match on TV. Not a very good experience on our first night?!
Our gulet room was very “spacious” for a boat and our separate bathroom with its own toilet and water shower was quite nice. Our Captain was OK but the “Crew” was not very friendly. They served us our food, gave us our drinks when we needed them, helped us on and off the boats but just did not seem to have their hearts in the right places. They did not smile and recognize us very much and they seemed to be more interested in their video games. We were disappointed with this supposedly “friendly?” crew. Snorkel equipment was terrible and what we did finally get, was not working correctly.
While on our gulet, we stopped every night at a protected cove where we could get a good night’s rest! During the days on this gulet, we made trips to Daylan where we explored the Lycian tombs ( cut into cliff faces that were “Houses of the Dead”), the Lycian Ruins of Caunus founded before the 9th century BC with its ancient walls, baths, church and theatre.
We also hiked for over three hours from our “parking cove” by the sunken baths of Cleopatra built for her by Mark Antony. We did a moderate 3.2 mile hike up and down the hills passing through forests, meadows and spectacular coastal scenery. Near the top we stopped at a shepherd’s hut for tea, and, YES, another shopping experience with cow bells, spoons, forks and other stuff available for your shopping pleasure. By the time we arrived back to our gulet, we were all ready for a swim.
Another day was spent at Kayakoy, the eeriest Ghost Town in Turkey! This was once a thriving Greek village of over 1,000 homes, two churches, fourteen chapels, and two schools. It was completely deserted in 1923 when the 25,000 Greek inhabitants living here, along with more than a million other Greeks living throughout Turkey were repatriated to Greece through a massive government mandated population exchange between the two countries following the Greek War of Independence. Since then, it has stood empty and crumbling, with only the breeze from the mountains and mist from the sea blowing through its empty houses and streets!
We disembarked from our gulet at the port of Fethiye, a tourist resort on the Mediterranean Sea with beautiful bays and beaches. As we traveled by bus to Antalya, we passed through the “Food Paradise” of Turkey. We saw thousands of greenhouses filled with growing tomato vines inside. Our stops included the ancient Lycian city of Demre (Myra), where St. Paul supposedly came through in the first century. We saw the theatre and the two cliffs carved with spectacular “house tombs” carved over 2,500 years ago!
Our next stop was to the Church of Saint Nicholas. In the 4th century AD, Saint Nicholas was the bishop of this area and was known as the protector of children giving them gifts whenever he could. Beautiful frescoes were inside. The Russians have donated money to restore this church.
We stayed in Antalya, a beautiful seaside resort which is very popular with the Russians. We visited the archaeological museum which houses regional artifacts from the Stone Age to the present. The upper part of the Statue of Hercules had just been transferred from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts back to this museum. Both the upper and lower parts were joined together and once again this magnificent statue could be seen in its entirety! The Turkish people as well as our tour group were proud to see this happen.
We had the truly interesting and relaxing experience of a Turkish Bath while we stayed in Antalya! Nine of us went to a Turkish Bath. Girls were on one side and Boys on the other. The walls were thin according to our men, and they said they could hear our laughter as we enjoyed our bath experience! Little did they know how somewhat anxious we were in a place we had no idea what we were getting into and with no one speaking American!
We were lead to a glass changing room. All clothes came off and we wrapped a cotton towel around us. Our first stop was to a well heated steam bath-typed room where we rinsed off with water and then laid down on a heated marble slab. It was very hot so after a while, a water fight ensued among us to just cool us off! We were then taken out one by one to a small room with 4 slabs. Our towel was placed on top of one of these slabs, and we were motioned to lie down. We had a bubble bath squeezed through a “pillowcase” slopped all over us and were scrubbed down with a soapy loofah. Next we were shampooed and then sent to a comfortable chair to sit, relax and to enjoy a cup of “Turkish’ or Apple tea. Now we all thought our Turkish bath experience was over until one by one we were motioned upstairs to be given a very thorough oil massage. When we finally got off that table, we were limp with relaxation. We gingerly walked back to our dressing room and all of us found enough energy to find our clothes and to dress so we could safely get back to our hotel. What a truly relaxing experience that was, and I was so fortunate to experience it with a great group of newly found girlfriends!
After “floating” back to our hotel in the old section of town, most of our tour group enjoyed a wonderful fish meal overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. This might have been my favorite meal because I was craving fish, and it sure was delicious!
The next day we enjoyed our optional tour to Perge where it is believed that St. Paul preached one of his first sermons here in 46AD. We also visited Aspendos once a very important Roman trading center. Today its main attraction is a beautifully preserved Roman amphitheatre. Until recently it had been used for large concerts and other events.
We stayed overnight with a local village family. We were given their bedroom and the rest of our tour group had bedrooms in this home or in their other home nearby. We had a delicious Turkish dinner and breakfast prepared by our host and hostess and had a great question and answer session the night before. This was a very unique treat for all of us on this tour.
We next traveled overland to Cappadocia for our next three nights and for our last Turkish experience. We stayed at a Hilton Doubletree with great rooms, very comfortable beds, and excellent Turkish-style breakfasts and dinners. We were so spoiled staying here!
From here we visited the Melvana Museum to learn about the mystical Sufi order of the Mevlevi, known as the “Whirling Dervishes”. We had the opportunity to actually witness the Whirling Dervishes as they whirled, their motions representing a spiritual journey. While whirling, their arms are open with their right hand faced upwards directed to the sky ready to receive God’s beneficence and the left hand is turned down toward the Earth. They spin about 40 times per minute for at least five minutes at a stretch, and don’t appear to get dizzy! This was a very solemn and moving experience for all of us.
We thoroughly enjoyed the whimsical landscape of Cappadocia on our hike and especially in our hot air balloon! This might have been the highlight of our trip! With over 80 balloons launched that morning, we floated up and around the fairy-tale chimneys and the bewitching landscapes of spectacularly eroded tuffa (hardened volcanic ash). We saw Mount Erciyes, an extinct volcano, with the sun erupting over the very top! What a memory we will hold dear forever! Our New Zealand pilot, Andrew, was a delight, and shared his enthusiasm and love for ballooning as Vera asked him a million questions!!
We then went to Kaymakli, an underground city where several thousand people once lived. It is eight stories underground but we only went down to the 4th story. During the Hittite era as numerous armies swept across Asia Minor, underground cities were built to provide refuge during recurring threats by invading armies. This “city” was built over numerous generations and had living quarters, kitchens, granaries, stables, wine cellars, water cisterns, and well-ventilated shafts.
Our last discovery stop with this tour was to Uchisar Castle, a larger-than sculpture. We climbed up the 120 steps to the summit of the fortress to see the rocky landscape of Cappadocia. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Byzantine army took advantage of the natural elevation of three of the area's rock formations and used them as natural fortresses.
Our last day in Turkey was a travel day. It was very difficult saying “Goodbye” to our wonderful new family. We consider ourselves very blessed that we were to have Nesrin as our escorted tour guide and friend. We were amazed and so extremely fortunate with her knowledge and her passion for Turkey. We have talked about this beautiful country with so many of our friends since we arrived home.
We LOVED the 9 people we traveled with and wish to call them our “forever” friends. We laughed and talked and laughed some more. They were so easy to get to know and to travel with. We certainly hope our paths will cross again. It would be an honor to travel with all of them again.
Would we go back to Turkey again should the opportunity arise? You bet we would. This was an experience of a life time that we will never forget.
Traveler: Marvin Weiss from Scotia, NY traveled
on October 05, 2011
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