Treasures of the Aegean
Published date:
11.05.11
Having traveled with OAT on three previous occasions, our expectations were already high as we embarked for our trip to Turkey and Greece. We were not disappointed! We are left with wonderful memories (and over a thousand digital images) that will last a lifetime.
We began in Istanbul. Do not spend the extra money to obtain your Turkey visa in advance. It took us all of two minutes to wait in line just before entering passport control, hand over US$20 and receive a stamp. Despite the credit card decals on the windows, they only except cash.
Our group (you'll join up with another on the ship and for the farewell dinner) was fortunate to stay at the Marmara Pera Hotel in Istanbul. It's located only a short block from Istiklal Avenue, an elegant pedestrian only street that runs for about two miles and is lined with fine shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, ice cream stands, roasted chestnuts carts and street entertainers. We visited it both days we were there and felt completely safe among the happy throngs of strollers, even after dark. The hotel had a roof top deck from which we enjoyed a dramatic view of Old Istanbul flood-lit at night.
The other group stayed at at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in the Old City which was near the Grand Bazaar but didn't offer anything close to the same opportunities to explore on your own.
The Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia were about what you might expect—spectacular! Our local guide was knowledgeable and friendly. The one hour allotted to shop in the Grand Bazaar (think upscale, indoor, crowded flea market) could have been skipped, particularly since were told that there wasn't time left for the optional sightseeing cruise on the Bosporus—something most of us would have chosen.
The ruins of St. John's Basilica and Ephesus were awesome. We enjoyed a delicious lunch al fresco at a nearby handwoven carpet cooperative, but were then subjected to an entertaining but lengthy high pressure sales pitch. The carpets were beautiful, but almost no one in our group was interested in spending hundreds if not thousands of dollars on an impulse purchase which may or may not “work” when you got it home but couldn't be easily returned if it didn't. The extra hour or so was not time well spent.
We boarded the MS Artemis at the port of Kudasi and joined the second group. I can't say enough in praise of the ship, the food and especially the helpful and friendly English speaking crew. We had been cautioned that the itinerary was subject to change due to weather conditions and didn't have to wait long to experience the first modification as we had to skip scheduled stops at Patmos and Amorgus and sailed all night directly to Santorini.
Despite being discouraged from doing so by the leader of the second group, most of us opted for donkeys rather than riding a cable car to the village of Fira on top of the steep bluff. It was great fun! Absolutely no experience required and, even if you were an old hand at riding, these stubborn critters wouldn't have cared. Be sure to take the brief bus ride across the island to the beautiful village of Oia. That's where you'll see the white washed chapels with blue domes clinging to the hillside above the azure Aegean. Here's where you'll get your “calendar shots.”
The Artemis also took us to the islands of Naxos, Syros, Delos, Tinos and Paros. The wind was again too strong for the scheduled stop in Mykonos (The Artemis would have been fine; the passengers not so much) so our leaders arranged for us to travel back and forth for the day on one of the big inter-island ferries. Each island is different in geography, history, culture, architecture, cuisine, etc. and well worth exploring in the limited time available.
Maria had a very special unexpected experience on Paros. While walking around the town she passed a school and heard an English language class in progress. A retired teacher, she walked in and introduced herself to a secretary. She was greeted warmly and ushered into the classroom where the teacher invited her to take over the class. They were in the midst of a computer lesson so she pulled up the Michigan tourism sit and showed them “pictures from home.” The students were impressed by the Great Lakes and, being island children, wanted to know “if there were any fish in the lakes.”
We disembarked at Piraeus and drove to Delphi. Our route took us through central Athens the day after one of the big street demonstrations in front of the parliament building. Other than a few broken shop windows and lots of sprayed graffiti, all appeared back to normal except for piles of garbage which had accumulated over the last couple of weeks.
We arrived at Delphi in time to visit the archaeological museum. This was an informative introduction to our walking tour of the site itself the following day. We missed the Oracle (must have been on strike also) but did fill our bottles from the Sacred Spring! Our hotel overlooked the Delphi valley with its millions of olive trees.
Our next destination was Kalambaka to visit the monasteries of Meteora. The weather was overcast but the mist shrouding the ancient monasteries clinging to the pillars of rock and added to the mystery of the view. Women must wear skirts in the monasteries but most in our group opted for the wraparounds distributed free at the entrance. There really are 300 steps to climb to one of the monasteries so strengthen those quads before you come!
The last travel day in Greece was a long bus ride to Athens. We were anxious to get there in time to visit the Acropolis but were delayed by a stop at an icon-painting workshop which most of us would have preferred to skip. Interesting, but . . . We arrived at our hotel about 4:00 p.m. and just had time to quickly walk a few blocks to the Acropolis and explore a little before the 5:30 closing. Actually it might be the best time to visit since the late afternoon light illuminates the entire city visible from the heights. There isn't as much to see as one might think since the Parthenon is surrounded by cranes and scaffolding and you can only walk around the structure. The smaller temple there is actually more complete.
Overall, we were a little disappointed because we seemed to have more “time to explore on your own” than on our previous OAT adventures. Unfortunately, most of the time was in the afternoons when most of the shops and cafes are closed from about 2-5. We wandered around a lot of mostly empty streets.
This trip featured two home hosted dinners and, as usual, these events were among everyone's highlights. In Kalambaka the evening turned into an impromptu birthday party for a friend of the host who dropped in after dinner—complete with music and traditional Greek dancing. Opa!
Finally, I must sing the praises of our trip leader, Costas. Despite many years leading tour groups he was always fresh in his explanations about the history, culture, people and places in the country he
loves. He avoided overloading us with information as many guides tend to do, but patiently answered all our questions with as much detail as we wanted. He was quite candid about the current economic and political situation in Greece and left us all much better informed.
Traveler: Robert Lohrman from Kalamazoo, MI traveled
on October 11, 2011
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