The Wilderness Beyond: Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego & the Chilean Fjords (2012)

[The most enjoyable aspect of this trip was] learning about and exploring all the information on the people who settled the land. Could have used more history.

Traveler: Ginger Sutton from Sarasota, FL traveled on January 21, 2012

The trip to Easter Island was certainly one of a kind. Learning the history of the native people (Rapa Nui) and the theories as to how the statues (Moai) were moved from the quarry to the seashore, seeing the underground "homes" and caves of the ancient natives and visiting the quarry where unfinished statues could be seen up close was all fascinating.
Easter Island was much more physically demanding than anticipated. The uneven ground and
rocks everywhere presented a walking and balance challenge daily. Worthwhile but exhausting. The heat and the brilliant sun only added to the stress so go prepared. A wonderful experience. If you're there on a Sunday don't miss Mass at the church. The singing was fabulous
and awe inspiring and a real highlight of the trip.
Patagonia was absolutely beautiful, especially the glaciers. The guides had us just sit quietly and listen to nature several times, a moving and meaningful time. The sheep ranch, with its
"museum", was fascinating also.
The ship (Via Australis) was very nice and well planned. Be sure to sit on the top deck when you go through "Glacier Alley" and enjoy the servings of food and drink of the various European countries for whom the glaciers are named that are served by the crew as the ship passes each spectacular glacier.
There's a good bit of wasted time in airports catching planes and just traveling in general.

Traveler: Louise & John Simon from Alexandria, LA traveled on March 01, 2012

The trip to Patagonia and the Chilean Fjords was one of the best I have taken with OAT. It had all the requisites: an exotic and storied location, a well thought out itenerary, an enthusiastic group of fellow travelers, and a most excellent guide.

Arrival in Buenos Aires after an exhausting 9-hour night flight - especially following a 5-hour wait in Miami, was not fun. But lodging us in a centrally located very comfortable hotel and greeting us with a drink, a tango lesson and a steak dinner was exactly what was needed.

Our time in Buenos Aires was brief and intense. We toured various neighborhoods including the Boca - where Tango was invented, busy shopping districts, elegant restaurants along Rio Del Plata and enjoyed delicious Argentinian staples - empanadas, steak and good Malbec wines.

The Patagonian part started in Calafate - a charming small resort town. We had several excursions to the countryside - wide open steppes, Pampas, abundant with wild life and dominated by the sight of steep and dramatic mouintain ranges in the far distance. Gauchos herded their sheep and huge condors perched on the heights overlooking the route waiting for road kill. Another sight was a long legged flightless bird related to the Emu. This bird has a very interesting family life. The female, we were told, would dig a shallow nest in the ground, lay 20 to 40 eggs and walk away..The male bird would then sit on the nest and nurture the young. Sounds like a great arrangement! Wild guanacos were everywhere. The sight of a guanaco rolling in the sand, taking a bath, was quite memorable.

We were not able to visit Torres del Paine - a large forest fire required that the area be closed to tourists. We saw it from a distance however - a very dramatic and craggy mountain range. We were by a pond where we saw guanaco tracks closely followed by Puma tracks - the only natural enemy of the guanaco.

Instead of Torre del Paines, we went to Mt. Kilroy - named after the Captain of the Beagle, Darwin's ship. The 3-hour hike up the mountain was strenuous and satisfying. We saw the largest woodpecker in the world - a large black bird with a red headdress! As a 74-year old, I felt especially happy with this hike.

Our visit to the Perito Moreno glacier, the day at the sheep ranch where we saw their pet Puma - kept behind a tall enclosure - and where we were served Pisco Sours and a delicious lamb barbecue, and New Year's Eve in Calafate were all highlights of this trip.

Delights continued in the next phase. We boarded the ship in Puerto Arenas in Chile for the cruise through the ice fjords, tracing the paths of Magellan, Sir Francis Drake, Darwin and many others. We were transported on rubber dinghies to and from various shores to view the sights. The sharp lanscape, multiple glaciers, bull seals lying and roaring on the beaches, dolphins following the rubber dinghies, penguins and cormorants and other sea birds, wild plants and fruits in the woods - all were daily wonders.

The highlight - one of many - was visiting the Horn at the tip of South America. Literally shaped like a horn, it is actually an island. It is bare except for a lighthouse, a shrine, and memorials to the many explorers and sailors who visited and perished in the area. It was fun looking south and saying " I am now 450 Miles from Antarctica". I cherish my picture in front of a sign that says "El Fin Del Mundo".

We ended in Ushuaia on the Argentinian side. We were told that this is the only port where vessels bound for Antarctica can be serviced. In fact a National Geographic ship was berthed there when we arrived.

Ushuaia is an interesting place - originally a penal colony, now a growing city with a thriving hi-tech industry. We were taken on an OAT discovery trip in the surrounding mountains. We observed first hand damage done to the forests by beavers that had been brought in from Canada on the mistaken belief that this would help establish a fur industry for the location. But the climate was not suitable and instead the beavers turned into a disaster distroying the forests.

After a delicious home-cooked lunch served in the lovely home of one of the owners of the taxi-cab company that took us around the mountains, it was time to get ready for our way back to Buenos Aires and onto home in the States.

There was so much to do, so much to see...and I have left out so much from my narrative. Ever since I read "In Patagonia" by Bruce Chadwick many years ago, I wanted to visit the area. And I am very happy that I was able to do so.

Traveler: Selma Newburgh from Belmont, MA traveled on December 27, 2011

This was a remarkable travel experience. Everything worked seamlessly from the first welcoming e-mail from Caro Rovtar, our wonderful trip leader,to the very last day getting on the flight home. Lots of of hiking, but almost all of it tailored personally to the needs of everyone in the group. Trekking poles are a must, as is the water proof gear. The scenery was breathtaking, our guides incredibly knowledgeable, the accommodations, wonderful and the small ship portion, thrilling. The bonus was being with a terrific group of travel companions. to get in the spirit of the region, read "In Patagonia: by Bruce Chatwin. All in all, an adventure we will long remember

Traveler: Ellen L from New York traveled on February 18, 2012

Others have covered the beautiful scenery, good guides, trip highlights, and practical information. I would encourage you to see some of the wonderful movies and read the literature of the countries before you travel. It will enhance your experiences. Some titles are part of the OAT trip packet, but others include:The Official Story set in the time of the generals. Recent news has carried stories of children of the missing born during this period who are now discovering their natural parents through DNA tests. And, for a "feel" of northern Argentina Patagonia check out the Carlos Sorin movie Intimate Stories.

Traveler: Williams from Old Greenwich, CT traveled on January 21, 2012

This trip gives you a great up close view of Patagonia. The ship portion of the trip is the most exciting, If you are red meat lover, then the beef and lamb will be for you. Our visit to the sheep farm gave a view into the remote country life.

On clothing: Water proof hiking shoes whould have been better than boots for easy of packing and weight. TAKE A TREKING POLE. The weather was bearly cool, so be ready to take of layers. We had no rain, so rain pants were mainly for the zodiacs. Remember Buenos Aires is in the 90s.

Hope for Silvia Lopez for trip leader. Is one of the best ever. We saw Miguel in Antartica and he was great also, but not our leader.

Traveler: Wesley Michael from Avondale, PA traveled on January 03, 2012

My wife, Lana, and I just returned from this trip. It was our third trip with OAT and lived up to our expectation for their excellence. Our trip leader and local guides were excellent. The highlight for me was our four days on the Stella Australis and the excursion to Cape Horn in some the the strongest winds I have ever experienced. For Lana it was the home visit in Buenos Aries. We have published a blog giving details of the trip and many of our impressions. It can be found at:
http:travelpod.commembersbob_and_lana

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Traveler: Robert Wallace from Germantown, TN traveled on January 14, 2012

This trip is tied for second place among our seven trips (Tanzania is #1). It's a very active trip with several one-night hotels, lots of hiking and one incredibly early wake-up call. Fernando was terrific...mature, meticulous and accommodating.
The highpoint of the Patagonia portion of the trip was our excursion onto Cape Horn Island in 87 mph winds. A testament to the skill of the expedition crew and their commitment to adventure. It truly lived up to its historic reputation as the place few ships dared to cross.
I highly recommend the post-trip to Iguassu Falls. No matter how many photos you've seen, it will take your breath away. Imagine Niagara Falls times 50.
If you are flying from the West coast, ask for the Buenos Aires-Lima-Los Angeles return flight. Miami International Airport is a madhouse and not the place you want to negotiate after 11 hours of flying.

Traveler: Bruce Locke from Alamo, CA traveled on December 13, 2011

Our review will concentrate on what you need to know before you leave to better plan your trip, not the contents of the trip. We will also tell you about our restaurant experiences. Our tour director was Nelson Torres, one of the best guides we have had in 14 trips. He is experienced, calm, level headed, fun and energetic and if he is your guide, you will be fortunate. This was one of the best trips we have taken, clearly in the top 5. If you like exotic animals, striking mountain and glacial scenery and a luxurious cruise ship, this is the trip for you.

Money – US$ accepted everywhere. The Argentinean Pesos we got from an ATM were not needed. Most people seemed to prefer payment in US$s. We did not change any money in Chile, Take lots of small bills for tips and avoid bills that are torn and marked up. One person refused a $50 for a $46 dinner because it had 4 small numbers written on it.

Laundry – No opportunities to get laundry done except in the hotels for the usual frightening prices. We washed some clothes the first day in Buenos Aires and in Puerto Natales because we were there for 2 days each. There was no opportunity to have laundry done on the boat. In Calafate, there were some laundries close to the hotel but we did not check them out. Since the stay is 2 days, if you drop off laundry the day you arrive, you may be able to get your wash done there.

Weather – Buenos Aires was close to 100 F degrees every day we were there so take hot weather clothes for at least 4 days. We were very fortunate in that it never rained on our trip except for brief showers. Many of us were over dressed for shore excursions because it was never very cold. Don’t let this lull you into complacency because Nelson told us we may have had the best weather he has ever seen on one of these trips. Bring rain gear that is breathable, not coated nylon. Most of the situations where you might need rain gear also call for exercise and non-breathable stuff will get you wetter from the inside than outside.

Free open bar on the ship for all kinds of drinks – You could get anything, any time. Don’t buy wine or liquor to take on the ship.

Best food on any cruise ship, ever – The quality and presentation produced by the kitchen staff was astounding. Previous experience is 1 OAT ship, 2 HA ships and one Celebrity ship.

Lots of walking but not as much as some people have indicated in prior reviews. Part of this was due to a major fire in the Torres del Paine National Park. We could not stay in the Hosteria Lago Gray in the park and more than 23ds of the park was closed to everyone. Were told that forests around the lodge have burned to the ground but the lodge was saved. All the waking was uneven. In cities, many of the sidewalks had holes, loose tile or broken blocks. Walks off the boat were mostly trail walks and you needed to step over roots and rocks on uneven ground. Walking stick was helpful on the trail walks.

Shopping – Things could be expensive but better deals could be had in the Caminito area street stalls in Buenos Aires, in the Calafate craft market, on the square in Punta Arenas and at the leather shop at the boat landing in Tigre (last day in Buenos Aires). If you see something you like, buy it. You probably won’t see it again.

Last day in Buenos Aires – We had a guided tour and boat ride in the morning and we thought we would be sweltering in the heat in the afternoon before going to the airport for our 10:30 PM departure. OAT arranged for us to keep our hotel room until 5PM so we could walk around, have a nice late lunch and take a shower before leaving the hotel on the bus.

Restaurants – There were several dinners on your own and in Calafate, we had excellent grilled lamb at La Tablita at the edge of town. You must have a reservation and the hotel staff can make it for you. A high end dinner for 2, with a bottle of wine, will run you $100 but this same meal would be 50% more in a big city in the US. You can spend a lot less but this is for a good meal. We also had a very good meal at Casimiro Bigua but La Tablita was better and somewhat less expensive. In Ushuaia, check out Ramos Generales for food, desert or just drinks. It is on Maipu along the waterfront within walking distance of the hotel.

Meat country – If you do not like lamb, beef or seafood, you are on the wrong trip. These are meat loving countries and vegetarian selections are non-existent, except for pasta dishes.

Breakfast buffets were similar in most places, pastries, rolls, bread, cereal, fruit, etc. Every place had scrambled eggs and usually bacon and or little weenies. No eggs to order, or boiled or fried eggs. Only a few places had pancakes or crepes. Most places has a selection of meats and cheeses, like you see in Europe.
Quality of the ship experience was the best ever on an OAT trip. Even though our Dalmatian Coast trip on the MV Athena was memorable and very good, this was even better.

Optional kayaking trip – Even though they will tell you anyone can do it, we felt that some experience was essential. It is not a canoe trip and even under optimal conditions, it requires skill and balance.

Hair dryers were available in every hotel and on the ship and they worked well.

Free Wi-Fi was available in every hotel except on the ship.

Prison Museum in Ushuaia is extensive and costs $16 a head. You could easily spend a whole day there in the many galleries. Don’t start late in the afternoon if you are tired or you may be wasting your money.

Glaciarum in El Calafate was interesting and well worth the money. You need to plan to spend at least 2 hours but you could easily spend more.

Tango Show in Buenos Aires was high quality and according to my wife, was well worth the money. Wine, beer and soft drinks were included. We went to the show after our farewell dinner. There was a slide show on the history of the tango before the performance and the show actually started at 10:30 PM. I decided not to attend and did not regret it. For me, musical shows are usually an expensive occasion to catch up on sleep.

Traveler: Frank S Duke from Cincinnati, OH traveled on January 07, 2012

This was our 13th trip with GCTOAT and it met all expectations. We enjoy the OAT "formula" of active adventure trips. Graciela was our guide and was terrific, as were the local guides and bus drivers. Most of the reviews covered the highlights but we have a few comments. Be prepared for all kinds of weather. We had rain and ice pellets going sideways at Perito Moreno Glacier and sunbathing and wading at Pia Glacier. Keep rain gear handy at all times. Winds are strong. One gust caught my backpack like a sail and almost blew me off the hiking path. Hikes are great and provisions are made for short and long hikes. Be aware hiking in those winds uses more energy and fluids than a quiet stroll on a mountain path! Hats and umbrellas blow away so use a hooded jacket. We loved Torres del Paine National Park and the Lago Gray Inn. Would have enjoyed more time there. Graciela told us early on that we would be glad to get to the ship and rest and she was correct. This is a very fast paced trip, one very early flight right after Buenos Aires, so you are still recovering from the overnight flights down there, very different meal schedules, weather extremes, etc. The ship was wonderful and we were successful with the Cape Horn landing. They said they have a 70% success rate with landings which is good considering the weather in the area of the cape. One review mentioned this trip was not as exciting as the Antarctic trip. However, this is a totally different type of trip. We have spent one and a half months in Antarctica. While Antarctica is a fantastic place to visit, it does not provide the hiking, scenery, and wildlife of Torres del Paine or other extensive hikes on landings from the ship. There were many other fun moments but those are the highlights. Enjoy!

Traveler: Alan and Sue Reiter from Enumclaw, WA traveled on December 06, 2011

This was a fabulous trip especially because of well-organized and gracious trip leader Carlos Segura. We cannot say enough good things about how he managed the trip for all of us and handled the group of 24 with thoughfulness and a focus on our common goals. Local guides, Elena in Easter Island and Sergio in Torres del Paines greatly enhanced the value of the trip - with their knowledge, passion, and insights. They both worked so well with Carlos. We wish we could have spent more time in Torres del Paines and less time in Buenos Aires - which turned out to be a lot of "this is..." and "that is..." but not enough time to be inside places of real interest. The Stella Australis was also outstanding and the expedition crew just amazing. Rounding Cape Horn! What a bonus! Future travelers should be aware that this trip has different bus drivers and local guides for each location - it would have helped us to know this and have more small denomination bills than we had planned for. More time in Torres del Paines would have made the trip even better - but, oh yes, just as it was, it was a fabulous overseas adventure! We're already signed up for our next OAT trip.

Traveler: Sally F from Burlingame, CA traveled on November 21, 2011

I had many favorites on this trip. Top on my list is the great group I was with. There were 24 of us which seems too big but everyone went overboard to be considerate and fun!
Special favorites were hiking in Torres Del Paine and the cruise (and zodiac trips ashore) through Magellan and Beagle Channels.
This was my first trip with Overseas Adventure Travel and the adventure part is what appealed to me and was so well done.
Nick was an excellent guide with lots of knowledge and extra caring.
When you can get an Alaskan to say Wow, you know it's pretty outstanding and I did some Wows on this trip.

Traveler: Rebecca Turner from Anchorage, AK traveled on October 25, 2011

While this was a very good trip (esp. with Carolina Rovtar as our guide!!), there are a couple of ways we were misled by the Boston office:
1. If you go on either extension, you WILL be able to leave your off-season clothes at a hotel (Santiago for Easter Island; Buenos Aires for Iguassu Falls). This makes a huge difference in the way to pack.
2. If you have traveled to Argentina in the past few years, you may or may not have to pay the reciprocity fee (there will be a special stamp in your passport if you have traveled after a certain date).
In addition:
One thing we found upon arrival: Before you get in line to clear customs in Santiago, pay the reciprocity fee (at a different booth) first. We were guided to do so, but there were many others who stood in the customs line only to be turned awayredirected to the other.
Be prepared to walkhike: We walked over 70 miles on this trip.
Lastly, IF you have been to Antarctica with OAT, this trip is a little ANTICLIMACTIC. The Buenos Aires portion is virtually the same; there are no landings to enable interaction with the penguins; and not unexpectedly, the icebergs are fewer and much smaller. But having said that, there is nothing on earth as WONDERFUL as the Perito Moreno and Pia glaciers, Torres del Paine, and if you're lucky enough, not only stepping foot on Cape Horn but sailing around it as well.

Traveler: Sharon Kilpatrick from Tucker, GA traveled on September 22, 2011

We took the pre-trip extension to Easter Island and would highly recommend it. It also gave us the opportunity to see Santiago, Chile. Nelson took us by subway to the heart of the city and pointed out interesting sights. He also introduced us to eating empenadas at a very, very fast food stand. His lesson on the subway enabled us to feel confident to use it on our own to reach San Cristobal Hill and take the vinacular to the top for the views.
We had an excellent included dinner in a revolving restaurant on the 18th floor.

The moai statues on Easter Island were much larger and more numerous than we had realized. The cultural history was well explained and added a great deal to the experience. The lodging was a very short walk from some fascinating caves. The food was good with an emphasis on tuna. Nelson introduced us to the tuna enpanada - yum. He also encouraged us to try an Italiono hotdog which we did - it had lots of extras - avocado, tomato, and lots of mayo - an interesting lunch. He took us on an interesting walk through the fishing village and past more moai. On our own we stopped at the local museum which was a good review of what we had learned on our sightseeing. We also attended a mass at the local church where the choir sang in their native tongue. Both interesting experiences. Be prepared for wind and rain - don't leave without your raincoat. Also bring a swimsuit for the visit to the beach. Great views of the Andes Mt. on our flight from Santiago to Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires is warm but by the time you reach Patagonia you will be glad you packed to dress in layers. Don't forget a warm hat and gloves. And the rain gear is a must. The included tours in Buenos Aires were great. The Parana Delta showing how the people live on the islands in the delta was extremely interesting. We had no idea this existed.
Several things we did on our own that we would recommend were the modern art museum and a visit to St. Martin Square containing the memorial to those who died in the Falkland Island War. the opera house was another highly recommended tour to take but get tickets in a timely manner because there are only a couple tours in English.

The National Parks you will visit are as rugged, beautiful, and well planned as ours in the US. You are able to do a lot of hiking and usually there were choices for easy or more difficult. A walking stick is very helpful.

The boat trip was extremely good. The food and service was excellent. The open bar was a pleasant surprise. The trips in the zodiac were well conducted. You always felt safe. And the boat offered the free use of wellington boots - so no wet feet. After the hikes, before returning to the boat on the zodiacs there was a portable bar offering yummy hot chocolate or I believe it was whiskey - we always opted for the hot chocolate. We did see Magellanic penguins but unfortunately did not see elephant seals. The boat company seemed to have an exclusive right to the route in the fiords - we saw only one patrol boat on the entire trip. The glaciers we saw are greater in number than one can see on an Alaska cruise. The climb up to Cape Horn is advertised as 160 steps - it is more - I counted,but worth every step. Again be prepared for wind. The boat has an exercise room so bring gym clothes if you want to make use of it.

This was our 21st trip with OAT, Grand Circle, and again it more than met our expectations. And again we had an excellent and very helpful program director in Nelson.

Traveler: Charles Statz from Elkhorn, WI traveled on October 24, 2011

Since this was our first trip with OAT, we were not sure what to expect, but the trip exceeded our expectations in every way. Alex was a great trip leader and really created a sense of family along the trip. I think his pre-trip videos about "layering" were also very helpful.
The trip itself was incredible. We really enjoyed our time in Buenos Aires and seeing the Boca neighborhood. The highlights were the dog rescue shelter in Calafate, the beauty of Torres del Paine, walking with the Guanaco's, and the daily cruise ship excursions in particular Wulaia Bay. It was a magical adventure

Traveler: Ward Denaway from Saint Paul, MN traveled on November 01, 2011

Having just returned from our trip to the “other America”, all We can say is that it was awesome. Firstly the Easter Islands were like a voyage into the past. This was a place you hear about and never thought we would ever get to. The city on Easter Island is one of the 10 most remote cities in the world. Seeing the Moari statues was unforgettable.

Our tour guide “Carolina” was great and her enthusiasm was contagious. She kept us all aware and upbeat. Our stay in Buenos Aires was a great learning experience and I especially liked seeing the crypt of Evita Peron

It was a great learning experience, seeing places that we heard about in school, the straight of Magellan, Cape Horn and the Andes mountain range. The glaciers were unforgettable as was all the small towns we visited. I enjoy telling everyone about our stay in the most southern city in the world. Our ship stay was great and the scenery was beyond description, seeing all the Glacier ice floating around and finding out the ship used it in the drinks and I noticed that the ice didn’t melt fast. I guess that it was very dense.


DOUG AND PAT SEDERQUIST

Traveler: Douglas Sederquist from West Yarmouth, MA traveled on September 22, 2011

Bill and I are hard pressed to define one area as our favorite.The trip was awsome,our trip leader and all the guides brought so much enthusiasm for their respective countries as well as the flora and fauna which made the trip even more memorable.

We had studied (in the 1950's) about the Strait of Megellan and Cape Horn never in our wildest dreams did we think we would sail where those explorers sailed!!

We walked or hicked over 100 miles so if you are in good physical shape this trip is a must.

Thank you again Carolina,

Bill and Kathy Gates

P.S. The dog rescue in Calafate was very heartwarming. How could OAT help the animals???

Traveler: Willard Gates from Orchard Hill, GA traveled on September 22, 2011

Everything about our trip was perfect. Carlos was the perfect combination for a guide--very organized and serious about his job and also very personable with everyone in our group. It was all FUN! Most of us (12) had traveled together before and were good friends, so he made a point of getting the others included in our "team". The quiet times of soaking in the beauty of the places we went were very special. He added a spiritual quality that meant alot to us.

Traveler: Josephine Dunn from Evergreen, CO traveled on October 01, 2011

We left February 3 for the Pre-Trip to Easter Island, we also took the Post-Trip to Iguassu Falls. If you can, take both these trips. On the total trip we were lucky and had mostly good weather and were able to do all the activities including landing on Cape Horn. You will get one or more days of rain.The following is not a travel log but observations to make your trip more enjoyable. Learn all the Spanish you can, you will find very few people that understand or speak English. I hope you like scrambled eggs for breakfast. There are no facewash cloths in any Hotels. Bring your swim suit. There are two types of bottled drinking water, with gas or without gas. You decide what you like. Santiago-Leader will show you place for Peso exchange which has a good rate. If practical, you should get enough Pesos for all your time in Chile. If you have any Pesos left over they can be used for a tip to the leader.The exchange rate on Easter Island is much lower than Santiago. In Chile only, you can buy a bottle of pre-mixed Pisco Sour to to take home. Easter Island-The TAPATI-RAP-NUI festival is held between the end of January and mid-February. A great event to see. Postcards-Mail in big cities SantiagoBuenos Aires or for sure you will get home before the cards. Still waiting for a card I mailed from Easter Island. In Chile card postage is $2, in Argentina it is $1. As on any trip watch your stuff. One customer had his camera stolen in the Hotel Lobby waiting for a room assignment. One customer lost his ATM card so he closed it.,but he did not have a back-up card so he had a cash problem. Buenos Aires-Near Hotel is the Pacifico Mall is open 10-9. The lower level has FREDDO, a good ice cream chain. There also is a Money Exchange booth with a good rate, will need passport and hotel name. Outside the Mall is Starbucks open early in the morning. During your first time in BA take guided tour of TERTRO COLON, if possible see a performance here. The Optional Tango Show $60, I would skip. There is a large Casino on a riverboat which is a interesting visit. The BA to Calafate plane takes a total of 7 hours, with one stop. On the plane you get a box with small crackers and cookie. Suggest you buy food at BA airport before flight. BOAT-It is not a OAT boat so no OAT 10% discount on purchases. All drinks are included and the bartender can make almost any drink. On the third day around 6PM get a seat in the bar area by the window for Glacier Alley Navigation, five glaciers, where a special drink and food is served for each glacier. CAPE HORN-Expensive gift shop-Post Cards are $4 and Hat $20, similar CAPE HORN hat on boat for $10. USHUAHA-Near hotel, suggest visit to the Military Prison and Maritime Museum. IGUASSU FALLS-View from Brazil is best. Optional Great Adventure is fun trip taken wearing swim suit. They give you a waterproof bag for your camera and stuff. They tell you when it is safe to take out your camera for pictures and when to put it back away. One customer kept his camera out most of the time, at the end of the boat ride his camera had gotten wet and stopped working.--Be prepared for a lot of travel and a good time.

Traveler: James Nelson from San Jose, CA traveled on February 03, 2011

In view of the cautions concerning weather contained in the OAT pre-trip materials we were thrilled to have better than expected conditions, permitting "once in a lifetime " photos of sperctacular scenery. Even a landing at Cape Horn was possible! Our OAT guide Pedro Porqueras was articulate, informative, caring and a master of handling the many details of travel in this part of the world. Our local guides were also excellent and the lecturersfield guides on the Mare Australis presented helpful, illustrated talks on the history, geology, fauna & flora of the areas we were to visit on our Zodiac excursions off ship.
Attending the Tango performance at Carlos Gandel was a fitting conclusion to our visit to Buenos Aires & Patagonia.

Traveler: Erwin & Margi Miller from Worcester, MA traveled on March 13, 2010

As well as the main Patagonia trip, we went on the pre-trip to Easter Island and the post-trip to Iguassu Falls. We were traveling for 23 days, but came home energized by the amazing experiences.

Graciela Rubin our trip leader was wonderful! We rated her excellent! She was a great organizer, always ready to help with any issues or questions we had, and was insightful and interesting as she taught us about her country and Chile. She not only helped when requested, but stepped in even before we asked. Clearly she loves her job. Of all the OAT trip leaders we have had, Graciela was at least equal to the best, perhaps the best.

Being on Easter Island for the Tapati Rapa Nui festival was probably THE highlight of the trip. We didn’t even know until just before going that we had lucked out on this. The group went to an evening children’s performance, saw the sliding downhill on a banana tree (like luge on dirt -- crazy!), the swimming races, and other events. Many events we did not get to see -- the festival is two-weeks long. It was great that Graciela arranged especially for us to get to some of the events. If you can take the pre-trip during the festival -- the first two weeks of February –- you will have a truly exceptional experience. This festival is non-touristy; really done by the locals, with what seemed like the entire population of the island taking part.

There were lots of other exceptional experiences! One highlight was the home visit that we made in Buenos Aires, which was probably the best we have experienced with OAT. The woman we visited taught us a great deal about Argentina, her adopted country for 40 years. She was elegant and gracious in sharing her home with us. The interaction between Julio, the local guide that we picked up at the Chilean border, and Graciela was also fantastic. Between the two of them, we learned about the quirky friendship between Argentineans and Chileans. The estancia visit was another wonderful experience. We enjoyed seeing and learning about life on a sheep ranch. Our hosts were friendly and lots of fun. Seeing the workers handle the sheep was a new and interesting experience, and the setting was truly fabulous. There was a certain amount of warning ahead of time that the accommodations might be less than we were used to, but that was not a problem at all. It was what we have come to expect from OAT – a true and fun adventure.

The pacing was, as usual with OAT, brisk, but well thought-out. The rest we got on the small boat came at just the right time. It was nice not to have to unpack for a few nights. Also, we thought that having varying levels on the hikes was great for those who were less able to do a long route. However, for the first time in our OAT adventures, we were feeling like we were a bit of a mismatch with OAT’s pacing. We wished there had been more hiking at Torres del Paine; however, that would have left others sitting in the bus longer.

The hotels were not exceptional (except for the Amerian at Iguassu Falls, which was excellent). But most were adequate or better and met our needs. The hotel on Easter Island was not luxurious with regard to accomodations, but turned out to be a short walk from the stage set up for many Tapati Rapa Nui festival events, so in that respect was the best option. The short distance to the moai - Ahu Tahai -- on the beach and the Tapati stage made this an excellent choice. The ship part of the trip was thoroughly satisfying. Can’t think of any way that part could have been better, except the food was great some meals and (only!) pretty good at others. DO follow OAT's guidelines and dress warmly. It's so much better when you are comfortable.

There were only a couple of down aspects to the trip - The evening dinner show in Brazil on the post-trip should be skipped altogether, and, hopefully, OAT can find a better quality evening -- or at least a better value. The dinner was buffet style and literally a food fight. We watched one woman intentionally spill her tray on the back of someone ahead of her in the line because that person was not moving fast enough. We were packed like sardines. It was very un-appetizing. The show had some fun elements, but for the most part was amateurish -- hicksville --definitely not worth the money, time, and hassle of going back over the border to Brazil. Getting a visa for Brazil was cumbersome and expensive, but you would not want to miss the view of Iguassu Falls from that side.

For us, there were 15 flights on this trip!! We left from San Francisco and would have preferred to go to Santaigo directly, but were routed through Los Angeles. We realize that was the only option on LAN at the time. However, we have heard that a LAN route directly from SFO to Santiago is opening soon. Hopefully, that will be available for future trips. Also, having to fly from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia to get to El Calafate and then from Ushuaia back through El Calafate to get back to Buenos Aires added extra ups and downs and time. Again, hopefully there will be some other routing available in the future. These negatives were truly minor when you look at the trip as a whole.

The weather cooperated and we were able to disembark at Cape Horn and all the other stops in Tierra del Fuego and the Chilean Fjords. We got dramatic views of Torres del Paine. Calafate was a great town to stay in -- a backpackers' hangout like Bishop in California -- and the food was excellent.

All in all the trip was wonderful!

Traveler: Thomas Ledig from Vallejo, CA traveled on January 28, 2010

This was our first experience with OAT, and while the trip was the most rigorous journey we've ever taken, it fulfilled if not surpassed our every expectation. The first part of the tour, Buenos Aires, El Calafate, Torres del Paine and the estancia was an intense experience with early arisings, long bus rides (although punctuated with frequent stops for wildlife viewing and refreshments), and hiking (both more and less intense ones) in areas of magnificent scenery. The rest of the trip was much gentler, including the highlight of the fortnight, the four-night cruise on the Mare Australis, on which one could choose just those activities (all of which were well worthwhile) which he or she wished to partake in and those which could comfortably be skipped.

Carolina, our Argentinian tour leader, was a delight and extremely helpful in motivating our group with her descriptions of each day's activities and what they involved, including alternatives for those so inclined. Her exhortations to enjoy the trip with all one's senses certainly led us to try to do so. In this we were aided and abetted by the delightful weather we had throughout, namely only one rain (this luckily at night at the estancia), only one very windy day, and especially the joy at being able to sail "around the horn" (apparently a very unique experience). Carolina's enthusiasm was infectious and helped meld our group of 21 travellers into a very close amiable bunch.

Now that six weeks have passed since our return home, we are still basking in our memories, enhanced by our photos and videos of the spectacular sights and scenery we experienced. Some of those highlights were the lovely village of El Calafate (Carolina's hometown), the Perito Moreno Glacier, Torres del Paine National Park (with its peaks, lakes and waterfalls), Ainsworth Bay (and the Darwin Ice Field), Pia fjord and glacier, Cape Horn, and the lovely city of Ushuaia (with possibly the planet's most picturesque harbor). All in all, an unforgettable experience.

Traveler: Charles and Judith from Blue Bell, PA traveled on December 26, 2009

OAT came through again with a wonderfully well organized and value-worthy trip in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego.
If you like undeveloped landscapes, towering mountains, glaciers emptying into the ocean, and unusual wildlife, e.g. condors, guanacos and rheas, then this might become a must on your travel list.
I especially appreciated that both easy and more difficult hikes were offered. Since we always had local guides in addition to our excellend trip leader, no group was left on their own.
As for highlights, one was the expedition ship on which we spent four nights cruising through the islands of Tierra del Fuego to Cape Horn. The accomodations and food were wonderful and the sightseeing spectacular.
Can you tell that I LOVED this trip!

Traveler: Sheri from Portland, OR traveled on December 08, 2009

This is one of the most adventurous trips we've taken with OAT. We love to hike and we got our wish and then some. Hikes at Perito Moreno Glacier, Estancia Rio Verde and Torres del Paine were awesome: not difficult, gorgeous scenery, wildflowers and wildlife and lots of fresh air. Patagonia is not to be missed!
The highlight, of course, was 4 nights on an expedition ship. We've been on lots of ships, but Via Australis is the best. It's small, clean, has incredible food and the crew are young & vibrant. We had 5 zodiac landings and each was unique. We hiked, saw penguins & baby elephant seals up close, walked near glaciers and went ashore at Cape Horn.Spectacular!
Our guide Ani loves her country and was excited to show us (also Chile). We highly recommend this trip!!!

Traveler: PJ & Mark from Lake George, CO traveled on December 01, 2009

My trip to this beautiful area started on Dec. 1, 2009. I had high expectations for this trip and they were met and exceeded in all areas. Our tour guide, Analia Anselmi, was excellent. I was pleasantly surprised and appreciated the phone call that I received from her the week before I left home for the trip. This provided me an opportunity to ask a question that had not been resolved. Ana was organized, knowledgeable, had a good sense of humor and her enthusiasism was infectious.
The scenery is magnificent, the hikes were great, the wildlife was spectacular and the food excellent. The Via Australis was a wonderful ship; the entire crew were wonderful and the food was great. The naturalists were very knowledgeable and helpful and provided wonderful excursions and onboard lectures and films. All the zodiac excursions were great. We were fortunate to have excellent weather. They did have Wellies on board the ship that one could borrow, however, one shouldn't count on that because there are a limited number of a given size. Waterproof hiking boots worked well. Definitely plan on rainwear, layers of clothing and do some walking or hiking before you go so that you can enjoy the hikes.

I have taken several OAT trips and I would highly recommend this one; it rates right at the top of my list.

Traveler: Mary from Bloomington, MN traveled on December 01, 2009

This was our third trip with OAT so we expected an excellent adventure. We were not disappointed. Our trip guide, Silvia Lopez was just plain delightful in every way. Accomodations were very good to excellent, food very good as well and the Mare Australis portion just perfect.

We were glad that we followed OAT's guide for layered and waterproof clothing. We needed the waterproof outerwear on most of the zodiac runs to the various shore destinations and being warm and dry was very nice indeed.

One of the reasons we like OAT is that they allow us to stay an extra week on our own while still taking care of our air travel. We like to do this at the end of our trips in order to really soak up the local culture. During our last week in Buenos Aires, we got to see Hugo Chavez of Venezuela arrive at the Casa Rosa for a state visit, explore all the really fine museums, and sample many of the parillas for dinners. It should be understood that we pay separately for the extended stay (usually renting an apartment) while OAT simply extends the date of our return flight

Our only disappointment had nothing to do with OAT. We had to change planes in Lima, Peru on our way to Buenos Aires as well as on the return. In Lima, we had to go through a security check again even though we had gone through security at the beginning of each flight and had not been out of a security zone on arrival in Lima. In addition, the security personnel were rude, demanding and, we thought, very unreasonable.

Even so, we would highly recommend this trip.

Traveler: Jesse from Laguna Beach, CA traveled on November 21, 2009

Spent a few weeks below 45 degrees south latitude; Home at 45 degrees north latitude. The time zone was four hours east of Mountain time, thus near 60 degrees of longitude. Patagonia, the Beagle channel and Darwin range are nearer Cape Horn at 55 degrees south latitude.
The trip between Boise and Buenos Aries takes about 15 hours in the air and four airports. International flights serve meals and drinks, and allow 44 lbs free luggage.
Itinerary:
From Buenos Aires we flew south 19 degrees latitude to Ushuaia, then back to El Calafate; From Calafate to Punta Arenas by bus; From Punta Arenas to Cape Horn and Ushuaia by small ship along the Magellan and the Beagle channels. A two day trip to Iguassu falls near the Tropic of Capricorn, temp near 100 with matching humidity, was included.
Argentina was our major host but we spent a day or two in both Chile(Punta Arenas and Pia glacier) and Brazil(viewing Iguassu falls). A total of 18 airport transfers in 18 days.
I didn't know that Darwin and the Beagle spent a few weeks in the Galapagos islands, but three years in Patagonia. The conifers and much of the wildlife of the northern hemisphere never populated south America - It is different: ubiquitous guanacos, beech forest; while horses, cattle and sheep are imports. While November behaves like May below the equator, snow squalls occurred at sea level. Drake's passage and the southern ocean was behaving normally (big waves); So we didn't, as intended, board the Zodiacs at Cape Horn.

Traveler: Ralph from Caldwell, ID traveled on November 10, 2009

We were fortunate in having Marcelo Gallo for our guide, in experiencing weather that allowed us to do everything scheduled, and to see most of what there was to see. As has been the case for previous journeys with OATGCT, the actual experience very accurately matched its descriptions in OAT brochures and on its web site. Everyone followed and benefited from OAT pre-trip guidance to bringwear layered clothing and rugged footwear for variable weather, as well as to have proper adapters for recharging camera batteries on Argentine and Chilean electrical outlets. At our first meeting Marcelo provided 20 useful pages of information concerning regional history, economics, geography, geology and fauna and flora likely to be seen. Useful maps followed.
In Buenos Aires we were taken to a leather clothing shop for “learning and discovery” about the Argentine leather industry. We received a ten-minute, show-and-tell with five different types of leather. Nothing was said about the Argentine leather industry as a whole. Upstairs tailors were seen cutting leather patterns, but no one accompanied or explained to us how they were organized for work. This OAT “learning and discovery” event was nothing but shopping, and a waste of time for those expecting overseas adventure travel. In fairness to the shop, the quality of the merchandise offered was high and the manner of the salespersons discrete.
As for weather, Buenos Aires was mild, of course, but further south temperatures became rather brisk and the wind always was very strong; we hiked through snow showers but had no rain, and the seas around Cape Horn were no problem at all for anyone in our group. We were able to land via 12-person Zodiac boats on Cape Horn Island, at Ainsworth Bay, Tucker Island, Pia Fjord, and Wulaia Bay. Accommodations, food, wine and service on the Via Australis while cruising Tierra del Fuego were outstanding, while the ambiance aboard ship was very comfortably informal. Finally, I enjoy a glass of red wine before andor with my evening meal. This trip offered a daily introduction to Argentine and Chilean wines of very good quality.
Hikes in the wilderness lasted for one to two hours, but no more than 5 or 6 miles round-trip; I found them enjoyable but very easy. The pace was moderate and elevation gains minimal. Only a few travelers did not participate in the hikes; those that did had no apparent problems because they dressed properly for the weather and followed paces appropriate for their individual abilities. One guide lead the faster hikers; another brought up the rear with those who chose to move more slowly.
All segments of this trip were enjoyable. I expected to and did see towering granite monoliths, glaciers and regional wildlife, but for me the Rio Verde Estancia (sheep ranch) was a new and fascinating experience. The estancia dormitory was rough but comfortable. Lamb was roasted on an open fireplace in the dining hall. In a shearing shed, we watched as a shearer relieved a sheep of its heavy (10 lbs.) winter coat of wool, which was soon to become part of a 250 kg. bale of wool bound for China. On our 90-minute hike around a tiny portion of the vast estate we saw a soaring Andean Condor, a large flock of Black-faced Ibises with nesting chicks, fox dens, free range horses, a newborn lamb not yet able to stand in the wind, and working Border Collies with their not yet trained and very energetic puppies.
Opportunities to view and photograph wildlife were good. Fauna species seen included: Guanacos, Lesser Rheas, Piche (like Armadillos), Patagonian Skunk, Elephant Seals, Fur Seals, Red Fox, Magellanic Penguins, Andean Condors, Kelp Geese, Upland Geese, Rock and Imperial Cormorants, Plumbeous Rail, Flightless Steamer Ducks, Southern Crested and Chimango Caracaras, Southern Lapwings, Ashy-headed Geese, So. American Tern, Chilean Skuas, Black-browed Albatross, Black-faced Ibises, Chilean Flamingos, Black-necked Swans, Yellow-billed Pintail Ducks, Black-chested Buzzard Eagles, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Sierra Finches and Rufous-collared Sparrows,
As for flora, a few of the many species seen and identified by our guide Marcelo were: Jacaranda trees in full bloom in Buenos Aires, Argentine Cotton trees, Calefate bushes, eye-catching Fire Bushes, three species of Beech trees (Tall and Antarctic Deciduous, and the Evergreen variety), Junellia ridens, Prickly Heath, Wild Currant, Arvejilla, Old Man’s Beard, Devil’s Strawberry, Mata Barossa and a lush green plant that was seen clinging sporadically to the well protected lee cliff of Cape Horn Island. Marcelo was unsure, but thought its name might be Heva Eliptica. We saw this plant nowhere else in Tierra del Fuego.
My wife chose not to join me on this adventure because of its distance from home and a new grandson. I appreciated OAT's acceptance of me as a single traveler, and I appreciated my fellow travellers' including me in their plans for independent dining during our free time.

Traveler: Richard from Winchester, MA traveled on November 03, 2009

We picked the best Small Ship Adventure, Patagonia and Cape Horn, for our first OAT adventure. Graciela Rubin, our Argentine OAT guide, provided laughter, information, organization and honesty every step of the way. She never failed the group once. Local guides added deeper layers to the experience. .

This trip of contrasts, from the excitement of Buenos Aires with its European flair to the desolate but stark beauty of Patagonian Steppes, to the elegant comfort of 4 days on the Via Australis, remains unforgettable.

Thanks to the naturalist guide team aboard the Via Australis, we experienced, exciting windswept hikes from zodiacs on two landings a day, as we weaved our way through the Chilean Fiords toward the end of the World- Cape Horn.

Our rare, calm zodiac landing at Cape Horn preempted the even rarer opportunity to travel around the Cape where the Atlantic meets the Pacific .

The varied itinerary, so carefully mapped out by OAT, provided an in depth look into the life of isolation in Patagonia and the dramatic accounts of animal, bird and glacial life from El Calafate to Ushuia. Who can forget the soar of the Andean Condor, the antics of the Magellanic Penquins or the creaking noises of the Perito Moreno and Pia Glaciers?

We recommend this OAT travel experience to anyone who wants to literally go to " The End of the World" and to do it in style,

Traveler: Ernest and Carol from Laredo, TX traveled on October 13, 2009

This trip was spectacular. When you combine a well thought out intinerary, a sparkling and thoroughly knowledgeable tour guide, and the end of the world - you have an unbeatable trip. This is a busy, active trip full of contrasts - from shopping in Buenos Aires (the "Paris of South America), to hiking in pristine, desolate national parks, to exhilirating rides in Zodiacs through windy, choppy waves. I haven't eaten so much red meat in months, but I could not pass up even one of the mouth-watering steaks . . . or any the fine Argentinian wines. In every instance, our tour guide, Carolina Rovtar, was excellent - friendly, enthusiasic, knowledgeable, thoughtful, well-prepared, and passionate about Patagonia. And our local guides were similarly knowledgeable, funny, experienced. The Via Australis is a delicious ship - and I don't just mean the fabulous meals and wines. The expedition leaders were all helpful, knowledgeable, fun. I wore out my hiking boots - the soles cames off -and I had to abandon them at the end of the world!! Isn't that a great thing to say?

Traveler: Cynthia from Gainesville, FL traveled on September 29, 2009

This was our fifth trip with GCTOAT. Each one was special and enjoyable. This particular journey is difficult to describe and even the pictures we took do not do it justice. Buenos Aires is a great city....very European at a fraction of the cost with wonderful food and nice people. The Patagonian region, with its spectacular natural wonders and wildlife is a very special place. The Andes are certainly the most impressive mountains on earth. Standing in front of the glaciers and these unreal mountain peaks borders on a spiritual experience. Our guide, Miguel Tauzig, and all of our local guides were superb in every way. Our accommodations on the Mare Australis were superior to those we have had on much larger ships. The landing on Cape Horn was the experience of a lifetime. I recommend this trip without reservation for those seeking a very unique travel experience.

Traveler: James from Rough And Ready, CA traveled on March 21, 2009

Our group of 22 called this trip "WOW", many said its beyond expectation,marvelous,excellent and for us it was our best out of 16th trips with OATGCT
We had several quiet moment;stood,looking,listening to the sound of ice cracking,carving at the Perito Moreno Glacier and Pia Glacier were unbelieveable.
For birdwatchers, the Condors,Caracaras gliding in the sky at the plain of Patagonia
Several hiking at the Torres del Paine,took several pictures of the Mtn. with Horns on top and beautiful blue sky.
Hiking on the Ainsworth Bay (Marinelli Glacie located there years ago) with beautiful flowers, berries and reddish color mushrooms.
Hiking up the Mtn at Wulaia Bay was fun and hard (bring your water repellent shoes)
The best of all was landing and hiking 160 steps up to the top of the Cape Horn Is.(not all groups made this landing).
Prepare youself physically so you can enjoy everythings.
Most of the places we were there were no tourists, no boats passing by, just a wonderful nature.
Thank you to Carlos Segura our trip leader, local guides and the Crew of Mare Australis for making our trip "WOW"

Traveler: NipJean from Winter Springs, FL traveled on March 28, 2009

Journey to the End of the World
We really enjoyed our January trip (summer in the southern hemisphere) to the Patagonia region of southern Argentina and Chile. Our base was Buenos Aires, from which we flew to the foothills of the Andes Mountains, then bussed through the Chilean pampas to an overnight on a cattle ranch, then boarded a small cruise ship for a tour of Tierra del Fuego, including visits to the Magellan Strait and Cape Horn. The weather varied from the near 90s in Buenos Aires to the 30s with 70 knot winds off Cape Horn. The scenery was stunning and the critters were fascinating. We encountered the guanaco (a cousin of the llama) on a hike in the awesome Torres Del Paine National Park and penguins during a zodiac boat excursion on the Beagle Channel. The two of us were nearly blown away as we turned the Cape enroute to Ushuaia, the southern terminus of the Pan American Highway and the southernmost city in the world. Do you get it? The end of the world. It was great fun.

Traveler: Lewis from Huntington Beach, CA traveled on January 06, 2009