Best of Kenya and Tanzania
Published date:
11.08.11
The Best of Kenya and Tanzania – experiences and evaluations
We have just returned from the October 12th trip which included the excursion to the Masai Mara. It was all a wonderful experience with mostly good weather, a compatible group of people, a good itinerary, good drivers and an excellent tour guide (Amani). The animals were fantastic and we saw all of the “big five” (buffalo, elephant, rhino, lion and leopard) within the first 2 game drives in the Mara. From then on, it was more sightings of all of these, as well as cheetahs, giraffes, hippos, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, baboons, monkeys, many different gazelles and antelopes, and herds of zebras and wildebeest. There were other smaller animals like the bat-eared fox, and some wonderful birds. No shortage of wildlife.
We were too late for the main migration to be still in the Mara and too early for it to have arrived back in the Serengeti, (although we saw some pretty big herds), but it meant we avoided the crowds associated with these events in the lodges and also out with the safari vehicles. We therefore had excellent attention and had time and space to stop and observe animal behavior whenever we wanted.
Arriving in the Mara by a small, 12-seater plane, the 11 OAT guests were met by 2 drivers in pop-top mini-vans. Our local guide, George, greeted us in full Maasai warrior costume (long braided hair, jewelry, red-checked draped cloths, sheathed knife, walking stick, rubber tire sandals!) This seemed exotic until we learned the Maasai people still wear traditional dress as they herd their goats and zebu cattle, and live in round, dung-plastered huts inside thorn bush fences. George was recently married and had paid 4 cows for his wife in dowry! He led the warrior dance in the dining room during dinner. Lots of high leaping!
The Mara Sentrim was the first of the permanent tented camps we stayed in. Nice open-air dining room overlooking the swimming pool. We found the tentcabins throughout the whole trip to be comfortable, but sometimes a bit dark inside with poor wattage lamps for reading. All had mosquito nets which were not really necessary at this time of year. (Even so, everyone was taking various malaria pills. Those on the daily Malarone proved to have less side effects than those taking the weekly Lariam). We always had to be accompanied to our tents after dark by a guard with a flashlight and spear! We could recharge camera batteries either in the tents at certain hours when generators were going, or at the main building. There's always shampoo provided (no conditioner), but only the proper lodges had hair dryers.
Every day we got up early for breakfast and then headed out for a game drive – some lasted half a day, some were all day with a picnic lunch, some drives occurred as we were on our way to another lodge. All were different – you never knew what you might see. Once the roof was popped up for shade and viewing, you could stand whenever the vehicle pulled up, which was as often as someone spotted an animal we wanted to watch or photograph. The drivers were excellent at seeing game, negotiating the rutted roads and tracks and fording streams and gullies. They talked to each other about recent sightings. Dust was often a problem, especially when another vehicle went past, but it's better than mud in the wet season when many unpaved roads become impassable.
After the Mara, we flew back to Nairobi to the western-style Intercontinental Hotel again. Here we picked up 2 more guests, met our main guide, Amani, and 2 new drivers, and proceeded to the Giraffe Center and nearby Karen Blixen's house before driving through the Rift Valley to the beautiful 5-star Naivasha Simba Lodge. All amenities here. Saw white and black rhinos at Lake Nakuru, but the famed flocks of flamingos have been replaced by pelicans as the salinity of the lake changes.
A long drive back past Nairobi and south to Amboseli. Great numbers of elephants in the swamp here. The Sentrim Amboseli tented camp, (reached by an atrocious dusty, rutted private road), has beautiful grounds, wonderful views of Mt. Kilimanjaro, (clear nights and mornings), and a lovely swimming pool. Desert climate. While here, we visited the local Amboseli Primary School where we brought gifts and pledged money towards much needed projects and then toured the adjacent Maasai village. The dung-plastered, round, windowless, mud huts in the compound were incredibly primitive. We were invited inside, and in the gloom, one of our members sat on the edge of a bed. Big mistake, as he ended up with bed bugs in his clothes! (These cultural experiences are great, but expect to reward the indigenous people by donating andor buying their crafts. The women lay their wares on the ground. Some of the items are made by them – especially beadwork – and some are obviously produced elsewhere.)
Crossing the border into Tanzania, we transferred to a bus for the drive to Arusha, and then got 2 new drivers and a different type of safari vehicle (pop-top, 4WD, modified Toyotas and Nissans – more comfortable than the mini-vans). These vehicles all take a beating, so have to be replaced every few years. Some were a bit newer and nicer inside than others, but all were austere. We took turns sitting in the various seats to be fair. Leg room can be restricted. The person sitting next to the driver cannot stand up and take photographs. The persons sitting in the back seat cannot hear the driver giving information when the vehicle is moving. However, if the tour guide is in the front, he can turn towards the rear and then it's easier to hear. Not all of the drivers were as easy to understand or as well-informed as the tour guide.
Lake Burunge tented camp was nice. Tentcabins were set far apart and a quite long way from the main dining building overlooking the lake. We visited nearby Tarangire National Park where we watched a lion stalking prey. Great picnic spot overlooking a river. Later, Amani took us to a local market, gave us money, and made us buy foodstuffs as part of an interactive process. We then donated the food to women who showed us how to weave grass mats.
Before a game drive through Lake Manyara NP, we stopped to view families eeking out a living by panning for gold – Amani had negotiated a donation for this privilege. Arrived at the beautiful Tloma Lodge with its green lawns, coffee plantation, and huge vegetable gardens. Another cultural experience by walking to a medical center, observing hand making of bricks, and having an interesting talk in an Iraqw compound. Then a rare free afternoon to rest, catch up on the internet, or use the inviting pool.
Drove to the Ngorongoro highlands on a washboard road and down into the crater. This was the most disappointing game drive as the crater was almost empty of animals until the migrating herds arrive and give birth. Exciting drive up the steep, one-way road out though – would hate to tackle that in the wet! Many miles farther on, we stopped at the famous Oldupai Gorge (NOT pronounced Olduvai!) for exploration of the anthropological digs and museum and lectures about the Leakeys. Lake Masek is one of the most remote tented camps and while the tents have a huge bathroom area and nice fittings, the showers are “moon showers” with an open roof . When a weather front came across and it rained, the tents proved to be cold and dark for our free time. Heard hippos grunting nearby during the night. We counted about 30 giraffes not far from the camp.
Overland to the Serengeti NP, we drove into a short rainstorm on the vast treeless plains and the route became slippery mud. Our driver did NOT use his 4WD as he said it wasn't “serious” enough for that! Saw lots of big birds on the plains – Secretary Birds, Kori Bustards and Ostriches. Once through the park gates, the countryside changed and we saw a magnificent black-maned lion and his family on the rocky outcrop of a kopje. A cheetah on another. Klipspringers on another. A big python alongside the road.
We were very lucky that our home for the next 4 days was the amazing and luxurious 5-star Bilila Lodge in the center of the Serengeti. (It is currently being taken over by the posh Four Seasons). It has a gorgeous infinity swimming pool, and a waterhole for the animals just beyond. Apparently elephants come to use it in the dry season. We regularly saw waterbuck, zebras, wildebeest, impala, warthogs and buffalo from our balconies. This was an amazing climax to our trip and the daily game drives from here found all sorts of interesting sights including the mesmerizing hippo pools, a pride of 18 lions and a leopard in a tree with it's kill. The country varied with acacia forests, palm-lined rivers with crocodiles, and open grasslands. This is a fabulous park!
The food throughout the trip was tasty with a huge array of choices from plentiful buffets. Soups and fruits were especially delicious. Box lunches were also good and no complaints when we had to make them ourselves. The restaurants we went to were also excellent. The biggest problem is that we ate so much and had so little exercise that everyone tended to put on weight! Despite all precautions, some of us still had sudden bouts of diarrhea, so medication like Imodium and Cipro was a must. The worst was needing to “go” while on a game drive, as proper rest stops are few and far between. Drivers don't like to stop near bushes or trees as you never know what animals are lurking therein, so emergency breaks were usually more open or behind the vehicle. A brown paper bag containing t.p. was useful.
Despite using DEET, we did get bitten in a few swampy places by pesky Tse Tse flies, which luckily don't carry sleeping sickness in those areas. Their bites are like a small sting with no residuals.
We stopped quite often at large souvenir shops where the array of goods was mind-boggling. You have to get used to bargaining and you can usually get the items for ½ the opening price or less. Hotels and lodges have small gift shops where you can browse without being pestered, but prices are higher. The best place to shop is the competitive craft market in central Nairobi. We went there on our first day but were too overwhelmed to buy anything, and also did not want to carry it. We went there again on our last day and this time we knew what to look for and what the prices SHOULD be. By now, we were hardened bargainers! The sellers are mostly nice, often funny, always ingenious, pleading and VERY aggressive. Bargaining takes SO much time! (A set price is so much easier!)
The new beige OAT bags held together, but barely. We took duct tape as a precaution. My husband used his OAT bag, but I took a slightly larger, much stronger wheeled bag that we already had, and it was great to stuff all the purchases inside that. It met the size and weight requirements but was much heavier on the way back. After the short flight from Nairobi to the Mara, the bags don't get weighed again until coming home where the international weight allowance is ample.
A word about visas. After talking to friends and doing as much research as possible beforehand, we decided to get our Tanzania visas here in advance. This was probably a wise move as the Nmanga border at the time we went through was very busy and it took long enough just to get our passports stamped. There were touts and pushy souvenir sellers and sketchy people all around so the guide wanted to herd us through as quickly as possible. The Kenyan visa however was another matter. We had our paperwork all filled out in advance as we disembarked the plane in Nairobi, but our hearts sank as we saw the huge line at the single visa counter. It proceeded so slowly. However, as soon as the other passport stations cleared, we were able to use those too and photos were taken and visas were issued very quickly. We explained our itinerary, and were told we only needed a single entry visa for $50 each, which enabled us to go into Tanzania and back within a 3 month period. (Thus we saved $180 per couple by NOT complying with OAT's idea of buying multiple entry visas in advance in the U.S. through the travel company. Just in case, we had an extra $100 set aside with extra applications filled out, ready to buy additional visas coming back into Kenya later, but that was not necessary.)
Another piece of good news, the road from Arusha to Nairobi is now fully tarred all the way. That was a huge complaint in former postings as to how rough and dusty and slow it was. The question was often asked as to why OAT didn't just fly everyone back. The answer is, the little airport in the Serengeti is not equipped for international flights. Therefore, passengers would have to fly from Serengeti to Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania and from there, take another plane to Nairobi in Kenya and that would be much more costly and take just about as long. We deplaned at Arusha Airport at 11.30, sped to the border, took a bathroom break at another souvenir shop, ate a box lunch in the bus, and reached Nairobi on the newly paved highway before 5 p.m. The trouble started after we reached the outskirts of the city when we were caught in horrendous, chaotic, peak-hour traffic and it took an hour to reach the hotel. (A new flyover in the works may help this situation a bit in future).
Last day in Nairobi we did a walking trip to the market and then had a tour of the historic Stanley Hotel. Took the bus to the interesting National Museum. While at lunch at the museum restaurant, a violent thunderstorm unleashed torrential rain and then heavy hail and the temperature dropped drastically! Checked out of our day rooms at the hotel and then ate an early dinner at a Brazilian restaurant on the way to the airport. Not the famous Carnivore serving bushmeat, but this one served tasty traditional meats carved off the skewers at the table, and was fun.
Long flights and lots of waiting at airports to get back home, but it was all worth it. In asking those people who had taken the Ultimate Africa trip beforehand which one they preferred, they couldn't say, as each was different and equally enjoyable. So it's a personal choice, or try to do both!
Hope this account gives a true picture of what to expect on this safari. Now to sort through the thousands of photographs.....!
Traveler: Barbara Waight from Los Altos, CA traveled
on October 12, 2011
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