Superb Sri Lanka and South India Experience
Published date:
05.16.12
Photo ops abound. I took 400 pictures. Best clothing: ExOfficio.com Airlite travel clothing, well-made, pants, shirts (short+long-sleeve for layering). Quick-dry. Select khaki and sage colors to mix and match. Sturdy, comfortable shoes. I wear Reebok "Classic" men's (good leather).
Sri Lanka:
My long-standing interests in archaeology, architecture and art, ancient civilizations and cultures were rewarded on this excellent tour. I visited Sri Lanka for the unique Sinhalese culture dating back 2,600 years and nourished by Theravada Buddhism, developed and inscribed on leaves of the talipot palm, by early Sri Lankan monks.
The highlights are: Sigiriya's Lion rock complex, Dambulla's Royal Rock Temple, 5 caves covered with murals and statues, and Polonnaruwa, royal capital of 800-years ago. Kandy and the Temple of the Sacred Tooth.
The area of Nuwara Eliya is a miniature landscape of tea plantations, mountains, valleys, waterfalls, and every shade of green. We wish to stay one more day! (only 1 day is scheduled). Hotels are all first class, food very good.
Our guide is exceptional, both in knowlegde of history, art and archaeology, but Asanka S. Hettiarachi also manages to fulfill the personal wishes of every single member of our group of 9! Driver Rahira is excellent.
1. a Buddhist monk comes to our hotel and leads a meditation exercise (amazing experience), 2. visit to a small temple to watch a monk engrave OLA leaves as the ancients did, 3. visit of a modern art gallery, 4. attend a folkloric performance,
5. visit an Ayurveda Center in the woods inside a spice plantation, and free facial for the ladies.
South India:
Tamil Nadu:The Dravidian language is still concentrated in South India and Northern Sri Lanka. Dravidians are part of the Indus Valley civilization (6000B.C.E); they migrated to South India around 2000B.C.E. The variety of impressions on all senses is intoxicating. Compressed into 2 weeks were histories sights, aromas, sounds, and colors of millenia. Or guide, Sudhakar Selwyn, ensures that the multitudesof experiences are harmonious and unforgettable. His superior knowledge of the history, religions, cultures and local customs, and small local settlements enhance the experience. He loves his country and puts his body and soul into presenting it to us.
Driver Mani excellent.
The highlights: Tamil Nadu:
1. (7th Cent. C.E.) rock sculpture splendor) of Arjuna's Penance in the small village of Mahabalipuram, visiting the awaking village, women street cleaners, women drawing elaborate "Kollam" chalk designs, others balancing yogurt containers on their head.
Sunrise over the fabulous carved temples, 5 Rathas. Graceful women in colorful saris.
2. Pondicherry: visit tiny settlement near roadside, palm-thatched shelters. Villager climbs tall palm to cut coconuts for us.
French quarter, Notre Dame des Anges cathedral, wedding ceremony for Indian couple in French. Rickshaw ride through town, taking poor rickshaw driver to fancy Koffi Barr.
3.Thikal. Kumbakonam (Colorful 12th Cent. Chola Temples). Flower market 6 am. Sudha buys flower garlands for us. Stop at Thikal, Muslim village. Women in stark black. Kumbakonam: note the Sarangapani Temple and Tank at the Cauvery river.
4. Thanjavur (Tanjore). World Heritage Site. Stunning tawney sandstone temple covered with 3-dimensional symbols and sculpture carved in the stone. The Bihadishwara Temple is the crowning glory of Chola temple architecture (10th century C.E.). We are given front-row seats at an elaborate and very colorful local wedding. Visit palace museum filled with exquisite Chola Bronce sculptures, Shiva Nataraja-in-the-round.
5. Visiting Sri Venkateswara orphanage, supported by Grand Circle Foundation. Moving, heartwarming visit to outlying countryside orphanange. About 100 happy children perfom and sing for us, and are eager to play games with us in the courtyard. It will open your heart, mind and wallet.
6. To Madurai. Pudukottai stop for a famous Chettiar lunch served on sanitized banana leaves,at the Bangala restaurant.
Madurai--Meenakshi Temple, that is all 12 gopurams--the height of South Indian temple architecture, the Taj Mahal of the South! They are covered from top to bottom with 3-dimensional sculptures covered in rainbow-colored stucco. The tallest of the 12 towers is 160ft. high. Witnessed night procession of Shiva stautue to his consort in the temple.
7. To Kerala. Becauseof a roadblock we visit the Cape, Kanniyakumari, town at the tip of India. We are well pleased to be at the meeting of 3 oceans: Arabian Sea (west), Bay of Bengal (east), and Indian Ocean (south). Hotel at Kovalam directly by the sea. Dinner al fresco overlooking the ocean dotted with hundreds of lights from small fishing boats. Visiting tiny fishing village and market.
8. Cochin. Alapupuzha backwater cruise in covered houseboat, lunch included. The backwater scenery is lovely, villages by the canals, people washing clothes in the canal. We stay in a charming small hotel near a colorful market. Visit 16th cent. Pardesi synagogue in the Jewish Quarter. Pulling in 1 fish in a huge Chinese fishing net. Taking a small local ferry, then a local bus to attend an auction at a huge fishmarket. See St. Francis church with the tombstone of Vasco de Gama.
Karnataka:
9. Mysore. Near Mysore we visit a lovely village, meet the Village President with wife and several other villagers living in small, tidy clay brick buildings. Livestock, chickens, castor beans drying in the sun, friendly villagers.
Visiting Srirangapatnam Ghat by the
10. Cauvery river Ghat. People in colorful clothing washing in the holy river.
Somnathpur (Optional). 13th Cent. Hoysala Temple, small, but covered with the most exquisite stone carvings, almost like "stone lace."
11. Lunch at the Lalita Mahal Palace included. The 1921 palace is now a 5-star hotel. It is wonderfully opulent with a high society lunch presentation.
12. Maharaja's Palace. Fantastic palace, one of the grandest of India's royal buildings, seat of the Wodeyar maharajas.
Though the grandeur seems over the top, the quality of the opulence is evident: enormous carved wooden doors, inlaid with ivory, stained glass, mosaic floors, life-size paintings of life during the Edwardian Raj, and a fine collection of sculptures and artefacts.
13. Mausoleum and serene gardens of Tipu Sultan, the "Tiger of Mysore." Tipu's is a long story to pursue on your own.
Travelled November 30 - December 25, 2011.
Traveler: Edith Speir from Annandale, VA traveled
on November 30, 2011
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