Another Wonderful Experience
Published date:
02.20.12
We returned from The Route of the Maya this week. As has been our experiences in the past, this was another great trip. It takes many things to make that true, not the least of which is a good guide, an interesting itinerary, and travelling companions with similar interests. We were fortunate to have all three.
At the outset, we were perturbed to receive a letter from OAT, only a week before our trip was to begin, informing us that we would not be visiting Sumpango to view the barriletes (giant kites) because recent experience had shown that they seldom were able to fly for OAT groups. Our guide adjusted our itinerary to somewhat overcome this change and took us to the home of some people active with building such kites. There we saw photos, videos and some small kites. We learned there that these barriletes have cultural significance that precludes them from being flown on any but special days when families communicate with their ancestors. The visit and explanation helped to temper our concerns over the loss. It was the only significant change we had to the published itinerary.
Carlos Lopez proved himself to be a knowledgeable, energetic and caring program director in many ways. We would rate him with the very best we have ever had during our extensive travels. He knew the sites, both the ancient and more recent history of the region, and the cultures we were immersed within. And, he arranged events so we experienced them along with the locals. For example, we struggled with our Spanish while shopping as small teams in an extensive covered market complex in Antigua. There we bought a number of produce items on a fixed budget, forcing us to search out and bargain for good prices. We then rode a “chicken” bus, the local mode of transportation, and delivered these purchases to the school we visited in a small village nearby before lunching with local families who were struggling to survive. While they had little in the way of comforts, these folks were gracious hostshostesses even as our language barriers limited our ability to communicate. They showed us through their smiles and laughter that wealth is not synonymous with happiness.
Carlos added one stop that was totally unexpected, yet it demonstrated his respect for our group and his qualities as a family man. Upon arrival at Flores, we had a drive to our hotel that passed close by Carlos’ home. We stopped by and found that his wife had prepared “welcoming tamales” for all in our group. We felt honored as he introduced his family, showed us the house he had built himself, and talked a little about his life.
The numerous cultural events were a highlight of the trip, and our “day in the life” was the best we have experienced. One extremely interesting visit was to a Shaman’s home in Santiago, a small community reached by boat on the shore of Lake Atitlan. Here, Maximon was honored and asked to assist a woman in poor health. We were allowed to watch and take photos of this ancient religious ceremony. It was a moving experience demonstrating the importance of ancestors to both ancient and modern day Maya. Santiago is a good location for purchasing souvenirs. The quality is high, the asking prices are fair, and bargaining is expected.
It was in Santiago also that a local priest, Stanley Rother from Oklahoma, was killed by right-wing gunmen during the civil war of the 1980s. His experience is commemorated in the book The Shepherd Cannot Run, published by the Archdiocese of Oklahoma City. His memorial is located in the local church. His story is a good source of information on the lives of the local Mayan population during the 1970s and 80s. Surprisingly, it is not among the suggested readings list provided by OAT.
Our school visit was most enjoyable. We met with kindergarten students, many of whom had never seen a North American, let alone met one. We listened as they entertained us and then we performed a group rendition of The Wheels of the Bus that brought back memories for us and surprised and pleased them. We also viewed improvements to the school made by the Grand Circle Foundation. This prompted several of us to donate to that good cause where 100 percent of donations actually are used for improvements.
Of course, we came to see Mayan ruins, and we were not disappointed. Cerens is a small site but it introduced us to life at the family level during the classic period. That helped set the stage for the other more urbanized sites we visited at Copan, Tikal, Yaxha’ and Lamanai. The extensiveness and magnificence of the latter sites was truly impressive, and both Carlos and the local guides were excellent with their descriptions, taking care to help us view the ruins as they would have appeared when occupied, pointing out unexcavated ruins and commenting on what they likely contained, and answering our many questions. Interspersed were sightings of birds and wildlife new to us. We got good exercise climbing a variety of temples, pyramids and homes of the elites. Some were quite steep, with incomplete andor deteriorated staircases so care was necessary and some in our group put their walking sticks to good use or avoided those climbs. We and several others found walking sticks to be unnecessary.
There were shopping opportunities, but most of those were while we had free time so those who were not interested were not held captive. We did visit one jade workshop with beautiful goods for sale, but even there we had an informative presentation of jade, its place in Mayan history, and the process for manufacturing jewelry, masks, etc. Our visits to coffee and macadamia nut farms were informative and enjoyable as well.
Our buses were adequate for our group of 16 along with Carlos, our driver and the occasional local guide. There was not much unused space, and at least one person had a seat over a rear wheel well. The group was good about changing seats each day, so the minor discomforts were shared. Roads in the area range from primitive dirt in a few areas to roughly paved two lane roads in most rural areas and typical urban secondary roads in cities. The bumps were noticeable more than once, even though our drivers were excellent and did their best to circumvent as many as possible. While some drives were lengthy, the scenery was often stunning. Only the numerous speed bumps were a bother. Our flight to Flores was on a comfortable jet seating about 50 people and with small overhead bins.
The beauty of Meso America surprised us. Mountains, jungles, waterfalls, lakes, volcanoes, agricultural lands and wildlife all added to the spectacular scenery. Our trips by boat on both Lake Atitlan and along the New River to Lamanai were highlights. During the latter we stopped several times to view birds, wildlife, and yes, crocodiles. Lamanai itself was the oldest site we visited, dating to 700 B.C.
Hotels were as described, what we would consider as 2 or 3 star in the States. Beds were comfortable and clean, and we felt safe. Public water was unsafe to drink throughout the trip, so be prepared to purchase at least one-half liter per person per day, as the hotels and OAT do not include sufficient bottled water. And, be sure to use it for everything, including brushing your teeth. We were fortunate that no one in our group experienced any significant illness. All of our hotels had standard North American 115v power so we did not need to use the adaptors we had with us for charging batteries, etc.
We did take medication for the prevention of malaria but encountered few mosquitoes anywhere, although a few people did report bites. Carlos pointed out that early February is not part of the rainy season when mosquitoes are most prevalent. He was also careful to advise when insect repellent and sunscreen would be most useful.
Food was good and plentiful but far from gourmet. Most days we had a choice of chicken or fish. On others it was fish or chicken. A few times, beef or pork, although some of the beef was very tough. An exception was that offered as part of the optional Back to the Past in Antigua tour. There we had excellent filet mignon. Nevertheless, except for the local dishes like black beans, soups, and corn tortillas, the food will not likely be a memorable part of your trip.
We took all the optional tours, as did many in our group, and found them to be highlights. The horses were gentle, the zip lines exciting, and the museumdinnerfolk dancing was a slower-paced, interesting experience. We would recommend them all.
So there you have it, our comments on another wonderful journey with OAT. We are looking forward to our next discovery, and hope all your journeys are pleasant and memorable.
Wanda and Pat
Broomfield, Colorado
Traveler: Patrick Crotty from Broomfield, CO traveled
on February 02, 2012
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