THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH
Published date:
03.20.12
15-Mar-2012
When I think of Costa Rica, I’m reminded of the title of one of biologist Richard Dawkins’s recent tomes, “The Greatest Show On Earth.” That show is on stage in Costa Rica, and does not disappoint. I’ve never seen a more colorful display of wild flora and fauna anywhere in such a small frame of time and space.
Alex, our OAT tour guide, had the requisite knowledge of both flora and fauna, and could identify many diverse species on sight. We’d meet him for bird-watching at six AM, when birds are most plentiful. I am not a birder. But with a good pair of binoculars, I was soon identifying Mot-Mots, Toucans, Kiskadees, Montezuma Oropendolas, Nun birds, and many more (including the plainest bird you’ll see, the Clay-colored Thrush, ironically the national bird of CR). If you are a birder, Costa Rica is a must-destination.
Tirimbina Biological Reserve is a big research site, and was a great educational experience. For the lecture on various bat species, experts used wild bats caught from the surrounding forest. The bats didn’t seem to mind being spread-eagled, their intimate parts on display for discussion. I got to touch the wing of one. When the demos were completed, the bats were released and flew back into the lush Tirimbina Forest, mysterious, dark and beautiful. I enjoyed my trek through it.
I learned that my favorite non-alcoholic beverage, coffee, isn’t manufactured in a super market. The arduous process of growing and processing it was revealed at the Doka Estate coffee plantation, which made me appreciate the bean even more. The estate has a beautiful butterfly garden worth exploring, too. And lots of delicious coffee.
A good pair of binoculars is important. While cruising on the Rio Frio in the Cano Negro Wildlife Reserve, I was in the rear of the tour boat, scanning the shoreline with my binoculars, when I spotted what looked like a lizard sitting on a stump. I ran to the front and told Alex. He had the boat back up, and we located the Green Iguana, a small female. Suddenly, a big green male pulled into view, approaching her, his dewlap pulsating. You know the rest.
The Rio Frio, one of two boat trips, had a large family of howler monkeys among other sights. Mothers were nursing babies, males were fighting. The other boat trip was on the Rio Tarcoles, my favorite. This vast swampland is home to a huge number of crocs, many with wide open mouths, as if patiently waiting for some unwary critter to enter.
Being from Louisiana, where the soil is soft and mushy, I’d never experienced an earthquake. This trip changed all that. We were staying at the Chachagua Rainforest Hotel. During the night, while sound asleep, I suddenly sat upright, feeling the bed shaking. At first, I thought high wind was rattling my quarters. But when I peaked through the window, I saw the trees were still. “This is an earthquake,” I whispered, as much fascinated as alarmed. After about 45 seconds or so, it passed. I readjusted my pillow and went back to sleep. The next morning, Alex confirmed it was an earthquake, a 6.2 or 6.3, around four AM. They are not uncommon in Costa Rica. Pura Vida!
One of OAT’s best and most distinguishing policies are the family visits, as well as “A day in the life.” I’ve found these to be incomparable experiences. At the school, the kids put on a great show, and I bought a couple souvenirs from them, including a colorful, hand-painted little coffee maker that actually works. Later, Alex split us up into three smaller groups, and each had lunch at home with three Costa Rican families. My group’s family didn’t speak english, so I got to practice my Spanish. The gentleman had a small farm, and like many Costa Rican homeowners, a lovely garden. He and his wife and son were gracious hosts.
The Class I-III rapids along the Sarapiqui River was a nice excursion, especially for those who haven’t been on white water before. More exciting was the wildlife along the bank. When we stepped onshore for a break, one of the guides caught two “poison dart frogs,” one a strawberry, the other a black-and-green, to show us.
The Rincon de la Vieja NP was in a secluded part of NW Costa Rica, off the beaten track. That was fine with me. Lots of activities there, including the horseback ride up to the mountain spa, where we spent much of the day enjoying the mud exfoliation, and thermal baths.
The eco-lodges were all charmingly rustic. My room at Montana de Fuego had a beautiful view of Volcan Arenal from the rocking chair on my porch. All the lodges had Wi-Fi. Be sure to bring a flashlight. While walking to my room at night, I saw a Coral Snake slithering across the walkway. It fascinated me this beautiful little snake could be so dangerous. Bring a flashlight! You don’t want this or any squiggly underfoot.
Of the optionals, the zip lining experience was thrilling and fun. I have recurrent dreams of flying through the air. When I return to Costa Rica, I will go again. The organic Pineapple Farm was the tastiest, and quite interesting.
Not everything was to my liking. I found the Ocean Outrigger Canoe option to be lot of rowing, for little return.
In my opinion, Manuel Antonio NP was overrated. I realize this is a big stop for tourists. But this park is simply too crowded. It’s beaches are pretty. And it’s fun taking a dip in the Pacific. But the animals are too accustomed to humans. I have a facial shot of a raccoon with his paw held out. A major national magazine has claimed this park is one of the best in the world. I’d suggest the editors get out of the office more.
This was not a culinary trip. Lots of rice and beans, fish, fresh fruit and veggies. Standard Tico fare. The food was good, very nutritious, and plain.
Remember, this trip is a trip for nature enthusiasts. It is not a cultural tour. We didn’t stay long in noisy and traffic jammed San Jose. Nonetheless, we did see the Teatro Nacional, and paid a visit to the Museo Nacional, where there are excellent exhibits of ancient and colonial life in Costa Rica, as well as a fine butterfly garden.
Strongly consider investing in a good camera. One of our troop had a big one, and took an incredible shot of a beautiful Great Blue Heron in flight just above the water, the kind of shot I just couldn’t get with my pocket digital. Keep your pocket digital as a spare.
Costa Rica’s abundance and variety of life forms will kindle more questions in the inquiring mind than it has ready-made answers for. Consider the sloth, which you’ll see lounging on a tree limb. If a sloth was in a race with the clock’s hour hand, he’d lose. Yet, this namesake for one of the Seven Deadly Sins gets along just fine, thank you. Clearly, there’s a place in nature, if not in heaven, for a creature whose strategy is to avoid the rat race, and survive by just taking it easy!
You’ll find the people of Costa Rica are friendly and easy going, too, and are in no race with your clock. Leave the rat race back home, at least for awhile, and go. Bring your curiosity, and a good camera. Pura Vida!
Traveler: Edward Wadsworth from Harvey, LA traveled
on February 08, 2012
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