Nepal & the Mystical Himalayas (2012)

I know that weather is always a toss up, but I rather doubt that where we were trekking we would have seen much of the Himalayas. Had it not been for the optional flight we would never have known that the Himalayas even existed. I feel misled: marketed as the “Mystical Himalayas,” I didn’t realize that that meant “it’s a mystery where they are or what they’re like.”

The hiking was on dirt roads (another disappointment) in valleys where the hills obscured any view of the mountains. We needed to get a little higher and a little closer to the Himalayas to actually experience them. Did not see them in Pokhara either – very smoggy, dusty, smoky.

This trip should simply be marketed as “Nepal” – period. Then mention the possibility of seeing the mountains; don’t say they will be part of one’s experience.

The river rafting was disappointing as well – scraped bottom more than got splashed! Paddled more than rode rapids, even the little ones.

Traveler: Patrick Norris from Phoenix, AZ traveled on March 21, 2012

Our trip to Nepal was at times breathtaking, and at times, mind blowing with the poverty and the basic living style in the countryside. I had two days of the dreaded "Delhi Belly", severely sunburned the top of my hands, and fell at the end of the first day of trekking that left my knee cut, bruised and in bad shape, but....it was just the BEST trip. I am a 71 year old woman, with extremely fair skin, in good physical condition traveling with my twin brother, and our dear childhood friend. My previous travels were with other tour companies, and I always thought I had good tour guides, but Rameshwar Shrestha (Ram) was wonderful. He took care of our wants and needs in a quiet, unassuming manner, was informative, engaged in our activities, and became our friend. Raju (our trekking guide) worked diligently cleaning and treating my knee. I couldn't have asked for better treatment.

Be prepared to wait in the transfer station at the New Delhi airport. We sat there for three hours, while our OAT rep and the staff from the Eaton Smart worked to complete our transfer. Our return to the transfer station on the way home was much more efficient and less time consuming.

During this trip, I never used my seat cushion for bumpy roads, or my money belt or fanny pack. What I did use that worked very well for me was a water resistant nylon, adjustable strap, cross body bag by North Face. I could carry everything and not have bulk around my waist, although several others did use fanny packs. Prepare to be hot and sweaty after many of the activities. Showers were always available, but not hairdryers. I wore everything I packed, and wished I had a few more long pants. Absolute necessities would be really good hiking shoes (loved my Merrell's), BugsAway bandanas from Megellans.com to keep neck from sunburns, and waterproof sunscreen. Bring a "charged" second camera battery and an additional memory card. Electricity isn't always available to charge batteries. I wish I had a waterproof camera since I could not take any photos during the rafting portion of the trip. The absolute best thing I packed with my prescription for Cipro. The Cipro and Ram's magic pills cured my "Delhi Belly" in short order. Please take large band-aids with you. Hopefully you won't need them, but they were non-existent, and I ended up covering my cut knee with way too many small ones. I spent much more money on tipping than I estimated.

Shopping was definitely easier and nicer in Porkhara's Riverside area. That area also had very nice restaurants. Ram took us to the Moon Dance one night, and the next night, after shopping, we went on our own to Bistro Caroline.

Even with the few bumps, bruises, and mishaps along the way, this is just a magnificent trip for the physically fit. It is challenging, exciting, peaceful, and different than anywhere else I have been. I absolutely loved the trekking, white water rafting, and riding the elephant was a hoot. My favorite places were Sanctuary Lodge and the Seti River Camp. The surroundings, the wonderful, friendly staff, and the good fellowship made both locations special. I definitely would travel with OAT in the future as opportunity and finances permit. Well worth the money!

Traveler: Elsa Hickey from Baldwinsville, NY traveled on April 10, 2012

I didn't like the Tiger's Nest hike being the very first day of the trip. It is a highlight of Bhutan, is very strenuous, and should be later on in the week when travelers are not so exhausted...

Traveler: Clare Chapman from Boulder, CO traveled on October 19, 2011

!8 trips with OATand this our best. Enjoyed the activity level. Though we were among the oldest in the group, we had no trouble keeping up. Enjoyed the opportunities to interact with the locals --always for us the most rewarding aspect of a trip.
We were worried a bit about the weather traveling in Jan.-Feb., but we had sunshine, clear views of the mountains, and only 1 day of rain. Pre-trip instructions to plan to dress in layers was good advice. One could, however, ignore suggestion for women to pack a travel skirt. I brought one and never wore it.
Helpful suggestions: 1)Pack trekking poles if you plan to hike to the Tiger's Nest in Bhutan. It's a steep climb. 2)Feel free to bargain in the hotel shops. They may reduce the price 30% or more. 3) Optional trip to Bhaktapur is a must. Reasonably priced and interesting. Also the best place to buy temple bells. The Mt. Everest flight was well done, but we had alread viewed the Himalayans flying to and from Bhutan, so perhaps was not necessary. Try to sit on the left side of plane going to Bhutan and the right side going to Nepal.
I satrongly recommend this trip.l

Traveler: Patricia Burg from Billings, MT traveled on January 20, 2012

We have been on 14 OAT trips and I have to rate the Nepal trip at the very top! The lodging, the scenery, the diversity of activities, good food and especially an absolutely incredible trip leader (Ram) made for an unforgetable adventure.

Our favorite spot was the Sanctuary Lodge at the foot of Fishtail Mountain. Awesome location, endearing staff and spectacular day hikes out of the lodge. For those of you who are worried about the hikes, stop fretting. The base hikes were easy and well paced. Optional extensions were offered for those who wanted too. The trip down the Seti River was wonderful as well and the Gokarna Forest Resort was perfect. Put this trip on your list!.

Traveler: John Starrr from Grand Junction, CO traveled on January 14, 2012

This was a wonderful trip which we did in October 2011. This was our 13th OAT trip so we know a good trip when we do one and Nepal is definitely a good trip.

The pre-trip to Bhutan was not offered but we had seen beautiful Bhutan before on a pre-trip to India. The latitude of Nepal is almost the same as the panhandle of Florida but at over 5,000 feet. All of the 8 travelers in our group basically came from sea level and none of us were bothered by the altitude in Nepal and no one took high altitude sickness pills. The weather was a lot warmer than we expected for that time of year. We only had rain one evening at Sanctuary Lodge and we didn’t need cold weather clothes until we went to Tibet.

Visas: We got our India visa on our own and avoided PVS saving money and time in the process. We did not get our Nepal visa in advance although it is recommended you do, but as it turned out we were able to get through the line as quick as those who already had theirs, but not having in advance could mean a delay. Still, if you get your own visas, get the Nepal visa in advance. Also, bring more visa sized pictures than suggested, as you will need for the trekking permit and if you go to Tibet. You must get your China visa in Nepal but OAT office in Kathmandu will handle the paperwork and do the legwork for the group.

Trekking: Don’t blow off the warning that you must be able to walk 3 miles a day unassisted and think it won’t apply to you, because it will. You must be in good physical condition for this trip and be able to do the trekking. Bring and use a trekking pole if you have one but you won’t need it constantly. I used my trekking pole; however, my husband didn’t use one and he managed fine but he likes to keep both hands free for taking videos. I wore low-top hiking shoes and my husband had a good pair of athletic shoes and both worked equally well. We noticed, however, that our porters and many of the locals were wearing plastic flip flops. Go figure!

We did the optional Mount Everest flight and loved it. The weather was clear and we had magnificent views of the whole mountain range and Mount Everest. Everyone has a window seat on the plane and the plane makes a turn and returns on the same route so both sides get a good view. We felt it was a highlight and worth the money. Talk about being on top of the world!

Sanctuary Lodge (perhaps Seti River Camp as well) offers an optional foot and leg reflexology massage and after a day of trekking, you will really appreciate it. We enjoyed the rafting on the Seti River and the relaxed and rustic atmosphere at the Seti River Camp. We also enjoyed our time with the elephants at Chitwan National Park. When it comes to the elephant bathing, the elephants were the ones bathing us, not the other way around. Bring your swimsuit or clothes and shoes you don’t mind getting wet. Also fun and exciting is getting up on the elephant by stepping up on the elephant’s trunk.

We felt there was more tipping than listed in the OAT brochure so bring extra dollar bills for tipping after the massage, elephant handlers, ox cart driver, etc.

Tibet Post-Trip: Lhasa is at 12,000 feet and the altitude was higher as we went around the country. None of us were on high altitude sickness pills and for the most part did well enough without it. We were winded after walking up stairs but none of us really regretted not taking the pills. When we were in Tibet, we asked our leader to provide bottled water for us. Our driver did buy a box of bottled water for us, and as we needed water, we would drop the money in the box. We feel they should volunteer to do this but you will probably have to ask them to get a box of water bottles and make room in the vehicle.

The weather was warmer in Tibet than we expected for October but it did cool towards the end of our trip. Our hotel in Lhasa was located very close to downtown so plenty of shopping opportunities for souvenirs. The hotel rooms were all similar but on the small side and the mattresses were very hard. The best food was in Lhasa. You need to have an open mind and a sense of humor when it comes to some of the toilet facilities.

When we drove for the days in the country, we were asked to skinny down our bags and the driver pushed back the rear seat to get more leg room. It turned out that leaving some luggage behind at the Lhasa hotel worked out well.

If you are prone to car sickness, bring Bonine, Dramamine, ginger tablets or other meds for both Nepal and Tibet. Very bumpy roads in Nepal but very smooth roads in Tibet; however, you will have mountain roads in both countries.

This is a great trip and so glad we did it. It was a great adventure and definitely a road less traveled.

Traveler: Terry & Shirley Jensen from Mary Esther, FL traveled on October 01, 2011

Awesome! What a great trip. We had a wonderful time and met some really nice people. This was our 5th OAT trip and it was right up there with the others we taken - Amazon River and Macho Picchu, Ultimate Africa, Thailand and Cambodia, and Panama Canal and Columbia.

Our tour guides (RAmeshawar in Nepal, and Tshering in Bhutan) were fantastic, They were very knowledgeable and willing to do anything they could to accommodate us. The staff at the lodges, trekking guides, rafting assistants were as nice and friendly as they could be. The same hold true for the Nepalese and Bhutan people.

This trip was a combination of nature, culture, and adventure. It will definitely take you out of your "comfort" zone.

Traveler: Sheldon Greenberg from Wilmette, IL traveled on October 03, 2011

The three week adventure to Bhutan and Nepal is one of my most memorable trips. from trudging up to the mid-point of Tiger's Nest, (with a lot of encouragement and continuous reassurance by our tour leader and driver that we were almost halfway there!) to trekking in the Annapurna Mountain Rangeand river-rafting on the Seti River, this is an action packed trip. The people of these countries are warm and hospitable, and respond with kindness and a nod to our smiles and waves. The children are out-going, love to have their pictures taken, and do their best to converse with tourists in English. By being amongst the people, outside of the major cities, I got the feel for their way of life and could appreciate their customs and culture.
From the tour leaders of both countries, I could feel the pride they have for their homelands. Tshering (Cring),in Bhutan, was charming and went out of his way to accommodate all of our wishes and desires. He showed genuine concern for those in need. He was open to all conversations and was a joy to be with for the week.
Krishna, our tour leader in Nepal, genuinely enjoyed being with our group. Hr spoke freely about most topics and was there to respond to any and all needs.
This is not a trip for those who are not physically active. If you do enjoy the outdoors and appreciate all that nature has to offer, this may be the trip for you. NovemberDecember were perfect months for all the activities. Don't forget your flashlight. Power outages are fairly common in some areas! But these are the experiences and the moments we will always remember!

Traveler: Louise Gould from San Pedro, CA traveled on November 16, 2011

Got back a couple of weeks ago and finally recovered from jet lag. That said, this was the best, most diverse and active OAT trip of the 7 we have taken. The guides were terrific and very knowledgeable. The nice thing was that it allowed for different activity levels for different members of the group. For those who like vegetarian food, you will enjoy the cuisine. Three of our 12 were carnivores and they were happy as well. Hiking, rafting, flight-seeing to see Mr. Everest, a safari on elephant back and lots of other adventures. . I highly recommend this for adventurous people who want to see some totally different cultures and do so in an active way.
aloha,
Gary

Traveler: Gary Elster from Wailuku, HI traveled on November 16, 2011

Although the Nepal & the Mystical Himalayas trip was only our third with OAT, one fact has become very clear: the quality of the trip is to a very large extent dependent on both the attitude and the knowledge of the trip leader. Of the two, the attitude is perhaps the most important; many leaders are capable of quoting facts without imparting a feeling for the context. On our Nepal trip, we were extremely fortunate in having Sanjeev Shrestha as our leader. His expertise was augmented by a passion for his country that was evidenced in all his presentations and impromptu comments.

Our group’s first days’ experiences in Kathmandu were diverse. As well as visiting world renowned sites such as the Boudhanath Stupa, we were able to observe the various stages of Hindu cremation as performed on the banks of their holy river. These, and the many other sites visited, were made more memorable by the detailed explanations of their importance in the daily lives of the Nepalese citizens, both Buddhist and Hindu. The descriptions of Nepalese life as portrayed by our leader were not sugar-coated, and covered all aspects of the efforts of an emerging government to bring Nepal into the twenty-first century. An example was the past struggle to convince the population to defecate only in designated areas. These few days alone were enough to bring our ideas of Nepal as a country into an entirely new perspective. The home-hosted dinner further enlightened us in the everyday activities of Nepalese. We consider ourselves very lucky and privileged in being assigned to our hosts. They were the children and grandchildren of one of Nepal’s most noted Sherpa’s, whose exploits had earned him his own page in Wikipedia, citing his place in the Guinness World Records.

Following a delayed flight to Pokhara and subsequent local bus ride to the trekking start point, we arrived after dark at the Annapurna Sanctuary Lodge. The following morning, after being awoken by staff happily bearing tea and coffee, we were presented with our first view of the sacred mountain Machapuchare, locally referred to as Fishtail. Using the Lodge as a base, we spent several days trekking the surrounding hills. Whether by morning light, evening twilight or under a full sun, Fishtail never failed to provide a camera-worthy moment. During these hikes, our leader further introduced us to local customs by arranging short visits to a local police station and local pharmacy, where any and all questions were answered regarding crime and health issues in the area. A hike to visit a school sponsored by the Grand Circle Foundation, followed by lunch provided by villagers, was both exhilarating and educational. The “cottage industry” of the village is honey production; nearly all the houses have bee colonies in attached wooden hives.

Retuning to Pokhara after the trekking days, we sampled a variety of features offered in Nepal’s second largest city, including boating on Phewa Lake to the island home of Barahi temple, and later visiting an injured raptor sanctuary.

Following the Pokhara experiences, the group thoroughly enjoyed the river rafting experience, although there was a general feeling that the extra day spent at the Seti river camp could have been more productively spent at another site. The final stop at Chitwan National Park was all that the advanced billing promised, with several rhinoceros and spotted deer being sighted from elephant back. Afterwards, some of the more adventurous group members participated in washing the elephants in the river, getting thoroughly soaked in the process.

Throughout the trip, our leader was quick to tailor daily details to accommodate group and individual interests:
“We’d like to visit a tea vendor.” We were taken to a tea shop in Bhaktapur City during a side trip from Kathmandu. Several of the group members left with packages of Nepalese tea.
“We’d also like to buy Himalayan salt.” Another vendor was located nearby.
“I’m a vegetarian.” All meals were arranged with vegetarian options.
“I’d like to buy an authentic Tibetan prayer rug.” We made an unadvertised side trip to the Tibetan Refugee Camp in Pokhara. This proved to be a popular stop, featuring rug weaving by refugees. A number of the group members were excited about the rugs and crafts available, some making sizable purchases.
“I’d like to take a more strenuous hike during our idle afternoon.” One of the guides took the individual on a hike that many in the group would not have been able to complete.
“We’d like to know how to make your delicious momos.” An interactive cooking session was arranged in the kitchen at the Seti River camp. Half the group participated in creating these Nepalese versions of dim sum.

The itinerary of the trip itself obviously included many more features than noted here, and would have fully met all our expectations. In reality, it far exceeded those expectations due to the special expertise and passion of the leader in making the experience one of participation rather than merely one of observation.

Traveler: Ken & Sharon Dick from Lutherville, MD traveled on November 02, 2011

What an amazing trip! To see Mt. Everest, trek the Annapurnas, raft the Seti river, experience an elephant safari, and learn about the culture and people of Nepal, I feel very lucky to have taken this trip.

The optional flight to Mt.Everest is very well planned: only 19 people allowed on board (everyone gets a window) half way through, we were taken (one at a time) to the cockpit to see the view from the front and talk to the pilots for a few seconds. Incredible views.

Our trip leader Sanjeev Shrestha was the perfect leader, kind, helpful, and knew everyone, everywhere. At the end of the trip, he shared a very special evening with us at his home celebrating the last day of Tihar. We were lucky enough to be in Kathmandu at the end of Tihar (festival of lights) the most important festival of the year. (The date changes every year)

Our trekking leader Santa and his assistant, Cash were very knowledgeable, helpful, and kind. And so was everyone else that we encountered during the trip.

We had great weather--middle of October--a good time to go.

The only negative result of my trip is that our mountains in Colorado now are SO SMALL, they will never look the same to me after seeing the Himalayas.

Great trip, I highly recommend it.

Traveler: Lorre ORourke from Centennial, CO traveled on October 13, 2011

This trip has generated many reviews, and I benefitted from many of them. I won't repeat but add just a few thoughts. When reading the traveler reviews, watch the date of travel. The advice given for one month might not be appropriate for other times of year. The one thing I didn't have that I wished for: spray saline. The air in Tibet was cold and VERY dry. The nasal passages would have benefitted greatly from saline sprays. Gifts for the school: books are frequently suggested. I took books and found I had to carry them in my backpack up a very steep mountain. Although there is a "library" at the school, the many books received in the past are piled on a shelf in the principal's office. At this time, they are not being used, and it does not appear to be a priority to make them available to the students. I asked the principal what was really needed. His answer: lined workbooks for the children, pencils and pens, pencil sharpeners (badly needed, not electric or battery - hand operated -could use only 3-4, so maybe let others know through these traveler reviews at what point they no longer need them.

Traveler: Leslie from Silver Spring, MD traveled on October 05, 2011

Let's see, what is the difference among a temple, pagoda, stupa? A bit of research ahead of time or careful attention of the guide's descriptions will answer that question!
Which was the most fun: flight-seeing amazing mountains, rafting down a river, hiking scenic trails or taking a scary elephant ride,? For me, it was definitely the river rafting!
I made the Nepal and Tibet trip in October 2011 and what an experience it was! Our congenial group of 13 had a wonderful guide, Sanjib. He made sure that each and every one of us had a marvelous time in Nepal. I have had many wonderful guides on my 12 OAT trips, and Sanjib was the best. He went above and beyond in so many ways!
Yes, the trip was a strenuous and, yes, I was not in good enough shape to do some of the more challenging hikes, nevertheless, I was able to enjoy every single minute of the adventure.
The high points for me were spent out of Kathmandu. I loved the calm beauty, good food, and helpful staff at Sanctuary Lodge. Being served coffee and tea in the early morning as we sat watching the sun rise on Fishtail Mountain was an amazing way to start the day. Sipping an Everest beer while lounging on the banks of the Seti River on a lazy afternoon was magic. And, sampling a nice red wine on the patio as the sun set over Chitwan was the perfect way to end an adventure-filled day.
We had a different type of experience in Tibet. It was wonderful, but in a more intellectual way. We learned a great deal about the relationship between the Chinese and the native Tibetans. We became aware of the governmental policies towards Buddhism and Buddhists. And, we learned to breathe deeply in the thin air.

My favorite hotel was the Gorkarna Forest Resort in Kathmandu. It was a bit out of the way, but in the chaos that is Kathmandu, the location was a +. The rooms were nice and the grounds spectacular. The hotel in Pokhara was also a bit out of the action, but cab fares were amazingly low. The other hotels each had its own special charm. Overall, The food was good. My least favorite meals were those at the "folk shows", so traditional on most tours.

As to more practical matters:
Don't plan on taking a Lonely Planet Tibet guide book into Tibet. Mine was confiscated at the Lhasa airport. Ditto any other book that contains information about the Dalai Lama. Those who had copied pages from other sources about the history of Tibet, etc, were able to get the copies through, however.
For those coming from the West Coast, be aware that the flight first flies east through O'Hare, JFK and then on to Delhi so the trip is verrrrrry long. We wondered if going through Thailand, China, or Korea might have been more appropriate.
The roads in Nepal are bumpy! One of our group carried a cushion with her. If one has back issues, I'd recomment doing the same thing.

I recommend this trip to anyone who wants to test themselves physically. It was also a great way to get a glimpse of life that is so different from that which most of us live.

I did not take the Bhutan pre-trip as I had been in Bhutan on another tour. I urge those who have not traveled there, to take the pre-trip! . Bhutan is amazing!!!!!

Traveler: Shirley Foster from Ferndale, CA traveled on October 05, 2011

The country side of Nepal was unbelievably beautiful with lush, green forested areas and rice fields. The people were absolutely friendly and gracious to tourists. The children could be heard from their homes near the trails and roads telling us “Namaste”.

The Annapurna Mountains are breathtaking in their scenic beauty. It was a full moon while we were at Basanti Lodge. The entire group would awake during the night to marvel at the reflections of the moon light off the glaciers on the mountains. The trek to Basanti Lodge was much more difficult than what is written on trekking to Sanctuary Lodge. The trek to Basanti starts at 3,850 feet to the lodge at 5,600 feet, mostly straight up. The trek back down was shorter since it was mostly steps at a steep angle. The views from Basanti Lodge were well worth the trek and ordeal of getting there. The lodge manager, Mr. I. B., and his staff were wonderful.

Pokara was a typical tourist trap along the Phewa Lake which made it interesting to see the different nationalities visiting the area. The canoe trip along the lake was relaxing at the perfect time. While in Pokara, take the one hour ultra flight with Avia of Nepal. It is well worth the cost to experience the flight to Mount Fishtail.

The Seti River camp was much more than I expected for a tent camp. Do not be turned off by sleeping in a tent. This tent has a covered roof with an attached room for bathing and a restroom. Enjoy the hammocks located near the river. What a way to relax. The staff and rafting crew were just as pleasant as the ones at Basanti Lodge.

The visit to Chitwain National Park was a highlight for me since I am a forester. The jungle with the wildlife (Rhinos, deer, and monkeys) was some thing to see. Watch for leeches while on foot in the jungle.

The temple areas of Katmandu valley were great places to visit. The people are very devout in their religion and worship. This made the trips to the temple areas special. The one temple area I had concerns on visiting was Pashupatnath. The temple itself was unique to visit, however public cremations are done along the river. It seemed to everyone that we were being intrusive at a time of mourning for families. That portion of the visit to Pashupatnath could have been avoided.

After saying all of that in regards to Katmandu, it has to be one of the dirtiest places on earth with garbage along the roads, in the rivers, and any place imaginable: so beware. You may see cattle rumaging through the garbage looking for anything green to eat. It makes Third World Countries to appear modern.

Traveler: Claude Moses from Deridder, LA traveled on October 03, 2011

There were so many times in Bhutan and Nepal that I thought to myself, " I would never have believed I would be doing this!" Have you ever ridden on an elephant in the jungle after a rhinocerous? Have you treked in the foothills of the Annapurnas? Have you rafted on a beautiful river in far away Nepal with no roads in sight? I loved this trip because we DID so many fun things! This is more than a sight seeing, shopping adventure, my best yet!

Traveler: Judith Aylward from Spokane, WA traveled on September 19, 2011

The trip to Nepal was an incredible adventure. It was physically challenging but not impossible. The accommodations were clean and comfortable, the Gokarna Forest Resort, world class.

It was a rare experience to see and take part in another culture. Our guide, Niraj Maharja, was very good at both showing and explaining life in Nepal. He was very approachable and ready to answer questions about Nepal and its people.

We were able to visit not only Kathmandu and Pokhara but several small villages. The trip took us to see the Himalayas by plane, walk the foothills, raft the Seti River and experience the jungle from the back of an elephant. This was a once in a lifetime journey. Do go if you get the chance.

Traveler: Joan Flatt from Spokane, WA traveled on October 02, 2011

Our overnight places were all superb. The hikes, elephant ride in the jungle and rafting were great. I would like more active time and less seeing sights in the cities.On the down side, none of us were prepared for the high heat and humidity. Also, in a small group you cannot escape an obnoxious person who has ignored the medical and high activity advice then complains about everything. Some people should be sent home rather than compromising the pleasure of the group.

Traveler: Glenda Fankhauser from Napa, CA traveled on October 02, 2011

I would highly recommend this trip, but would suggest a change that would involve only flying through New Delhi rather than a less than a full night stay in a costly hotel. On the return trip, we did not even go to the hotel since it would have amounted to about 2 hours before needing to return to the airport. By only flying through the airport, it would save the travelers the cost of the India visa, as well as save on the cost of the hotel. This would allow OAT to add one or two of the optionals as part of the basic trip.

Traveler: Heinke Lillenstein from Delevan, NY traveled on March 09, 2011

The trip was all I had hoped for - and the pre-trip to BHUTAN is a "must" for anyone considering this adventure. Bhutan is truly a Shangri-La, and our group leader Tandin was fabulous. He is so proud of his country and so very knowledgeable. The lodgings were excellent - more than I had anticipated in a country that is still "developing." Would advise anyone considering this trip to pay attention to the advice of your tour leader (who will send you an email before the trip begins). I took along clothing and supplies that I never used... because I followed the directions for packing from a generic letter. Depending on the time of year that you travel, what you need may be different. We were advised to bring warm clothing, gloves, walking stick, heavy jacket. Well... traveling in September I didn't need any of that but certainly could have used more warm weather clothing. The walking sticks were provided by the lodge. I should have paid more attention to the emails from Tandy (Bhutan) and Sajeev (Nepal) about what to bring. Lesson learned.
Nepal was wonderful - but being in Kathmandu once was enough. The other places we visited were awesome, and the people were the best part (both the natives and fellow travelers). Kathmandu is a big, DIRTY, unorganized city It was not all negative.... but, as I said: "Once is enough." The Gornaka Lodge was GREAT -- it was some miles outside of Kathmandu. The flight over Mt. Everest was optional - but I would HIGHLY recommend it. Great photo op! Using Yeti Airlines for Mt. Everest flight and for flying to town of Pokhara was a treat. Plane was clean, food was served, it departed on time and landed early. Why can't US airlines do that? The Gurung Lodge was also excellent and we had phenomenal views of Annapurna Range of mountains right from our cabin. Wakeup call in the morning was fresh, hot coffee delivered right to your room (no phones at the lodge). The elephant ride through the Chitwan National Forest was a fabulous way to end our adventure.

Traveler: Katherine Shaw from Harrison Township, MI traveled on September 10, 2011

This trip was great, one of the best I have taken. Our guide, Indra was fantastic - he was very flexible and accommodating; when our flight to view Everest was canceled due to poor visibility, he happily and successfully re-scheduled the flight for the next day (per our suggestion). Thank goodness, as this was one of the highlights of the trip. Everest and the other giants of the Himalayas are not to be missed. In addition, our initial itinerary left little time to view the Monkey Temple, so it was not really on our agenda; however, when I suggested we pay a visit later, on our return to Kathmandu, Indra worked a visit into our last day in Nepal, which was much appreciated.

What I liked most about this trip was the variety of things we saw and did. Loved the time spent viewing the temples in Kathmandu, loved the hikes and incredible scenery in the Annapurna region, and loved our time spent riding the elephants at Chitwan - there was never a dull moment!

Though the trip is somewhat strenuous, anyone in reasonable shape can handle it and will be glad they went!

Traveler: Charles Lawrence from Akron, OH traveled on March 09, 2011

This was a great adventure trip with a variety of activities and lots of hiking. It is not for the feint at heart! I highly recommend this trip for those wanting to explore a new culture and for unfussy travelers, which I believe most OAT travelers are. My stay at Sanctuary Lodge will remain in my heart forever.

Traveler: Joyce Scheid from Laguna Beach, CA traveled on September 07, 2011

This is the most active of the 6 OAT trips I have taken. The trip captures the history, culture and personal interactions that you expect on an OAT trip, but it provides many more opportunities to pursue hiking, rafting and other physical activities. We even got to swim in the Seti River (brrr).

Even though we stayed in comfortable country lodges and a very nice tent camp, when we were out in the remote locations of our trip, it felt a little bit like camping. The limited periods of electricity and hot water helped to reinforce this feeling. But smelling the fresh country air and watching the sun rise over the Annapurna mountains at 7 in the morning, when coffee and tea were delivered to your room with your wake up call, made you realize that you were in a special place and camping in style.

The lodges in Kathmandu and Pokhara were first class. It was nice having the luxury stops in between our rustic stops.

Our trip leader, Raj, was world class. His knowledge of Nepal, India and much of the rest of the world was outstanding. Our discussions on religious practices and the caste system in Nepal and the history of Nepal's Gorkha warriors were interesting and enlightening. He also provided us the opportunity to meet and talk with the first woman to lead an all-woman trek to the top of Mt. Everest.

The people of Nepal are some of the warmest, welcoming people in the world. In addition to the day in the village and school visits, we made several unplanned stops to share in their celebrations of life and death including marriage celebrations and end of mourning celebrations of life. We visited several local villages on our trip and the Nepalese were always proud to welcome us and show us how they lived their lives. The children were curious about our cameras and what part of the states we were from.

The farewell dinner for this trip is like no other. Not only did we eat and drink an excellent, traditional Nepal dinner, we dressed in native attire (provided by OAT)for the occasion.

I highly recommend this trip.

Traveler: Ron M from Plano, TX traveled on January 20, 2011

The Nepal & the Mystical Himalayas was one of the best trips I have ever taken! It was also one of the most adventuresome. There were many hours of trekking up and down mountains, through the countryside and cities and villages. We also had many opportunities to interact with the population.

Here are some thoughts I have for those fortunate travelers that follow:

• Gokarna Forest Resort (located in Kathmandu) was a superb way to begin and end the trip. It was luxurious and guests were taken care of by excellent and caring staff. Internet is available at about $350hr.
• The optional Mt. Everest trip by jet was wonderful to see. We had a clear day and the weather cooperated. From a photographic point off view, however, there was one large distraction – the windows were dirty both inside and outside the plant. This was disappointing given the purpose of the flight. If this is corrected, the flight will be an excellent bargain.
• Sanctuary Lodge (near the Annapurna Range of the Himalayas) was outstanding. It is in the countryside and so did not have the degree of luxury of Gokarna Forrest. But the setting was lovely and the rooms were comfortable. The staff were totally responsive, from delivery of coffee or tea at 6 am to dinner in the evening.
• Our guide, RAM, was superb! He never missed an opportunity to have us stop and talk with the native people we encountered on our trip, from a health clinic worker, to a lady weaving plates from tree leaves to children at an orphanage and a school, to an unscheduled Hindu festival outside of Pokhara, to the Nepali Charmin at Chitwan, to the native peoples we saw along the way. Also, many of our group were amateur photographers and RAM never missed an opportunity to find interesting shots for us. Unquestionably, he made the trip even more enjoyable and authentic.
• I had a little difficulty figuring out all four of the electrical plugs shown in our handbook and where to purchase the ones I needed. I turned to the ones offered by Magellan (a well-known travel supply company I always use to check on electrical issues). I can tell you that the two-pronged European adapter (EA351D) at http:www.magellans.comstoreAdaptor_Plugs___Converters worked at every hotel we stayed at, both in Nepal and Tibet.
• I took the post-trip to Tibet. It was quite different than Nepal and I enjoyed the overall experience. However, you should be prepared for very hard beds. One of our members compared them to an autopsy table, a true statement. Apparently the Chinese like hard beds. I survived by getting extra pillows and placing them horizontally on the bed to form a cushion, which was helpful. I was there the first week in April and it was still cold with always a breeze. Be prepared to eat breakfast, lunch and dinner in a coat, as the Tibetans do not use heat in public buildings.

Even with a few glitches, this was a trip of a lifetime, from the friendly Nepali and Tibetan people to the majesty of the Himalayas. It is an opportunity not to be missed. Thanks, OAT, for giving me the opportunity to discover the world beyond my border.

Traveler: David Johnson Jr from Lawrenceville, NJ traveled on March 21, 2011

This proved to be another well put together OAT trip (our seventh), although there were some issues with the air arrangements: we and another couple were routed to Delhi via Brussels from JFK, while those who booked later got a direct flight, albeit on Air India, which is reportedly not as highly rated as Jet Airways. The other negative was that the Delhi hotel was pretty far from the airport, which affected us more on the return flight than on the way in.

Our superlatives start with our trip leader, Anup Shrestha, a very well-informed and personable guide who obviously enjoyed imparting his knowledge of his country to us; who consistently displayed a sense of humor; and who came up with some extra local touches — such as a ride in a “tuk tuk”(small truck type of taxi) and another on a bicycle rickshaw in the seemingly chaotic, but actually oddly well-ordered, Kathmandu traffic — into the scheduled itinerary. He did also briefly discuss the very obvious problem regarding the utter lack of adequate waste disposal and recycling. Riverbanks, overpasses, vacant lots: all were piled with simply discarded plastic bottles and bags, while other trash was simply burned in small piles wherever it seemed convenient. Perhaps a lesson to the rest of us who are dismissive of concerns over such things as too may plastic water bottles?

The Gokarna Forest Resort, while not in Kathmandu proper, was itself a little Shangri-la, with wildlife and hiking (for those who found the time to fit these things in) and it provided a sense of calm after a day spent in the city. The trade-off, of course, is that you are not in the heart of things for the four nights spent there.

The school visits (we did two) were touching as well as informative, particularly in the way they showed us how eager most of these kids were to learn despite the unavailability of computers or even calculators. We visited one school on a day off, but despite this several teachers and a group of students came out to meet us and show us around. We, who are so spoiled and used to our perhaps world-destroying life-style with its gadgets and conveniences, are always brought up short by seeing people still living in such an alien way, and this is why OAT trips are so valuable.

The home visits, including dinner with a local family in Kathmandu and lunch in a Gurung village in Annapurna, were the types of OAT extras that make these trips so worthwhile, although one of the three home visits (not our group) turned out to be a dud, with very little interaction. We, on the other hand, had an interesting evening, and we were contacted at home via Facebook by the wife of the family.

The rafting trip was fun, despite the relatively low water (which, of course, made the rapids less so, but the trade-off was more time on the river), and the Seti River camp was one of our favorite places, particularly the tea and coffee brought to your tent before breakfast and again at 4:30, same as at Sanctuary Lodge, which we also enjoyed. Both are run by Ker & Downie, and this little touch is quite nice.


The hospitality of the people was always warm and seemingly genuine, and that also is something we are not really used to here, which says something about both cultures, I suppose. The people on the farms in the rural areas were obviously used to tourists, but did not let our presence interfere with their daily routines.

The food was good to excellent at the hotels, though at Pokhara we went (3 of us) by taxi (all of $3 each way) back to the Lakeside district to sample one of the restaurants written up in the Lonely Planet guide, as the hotel was a little isolated near the airport.

The mountain flight, which gives you (weather permitting) an aerial view of the Himalaya range and Sagarmatha (Everest), is an optional side trip that we would recommend. Our weather was perfect, and we had great visiblity.

We really recommend this trip to anyone who wants a touch of the exotic and exposure to a truly different culture. Of course, the OAT perspective, including the cultural close-ups that are always part of their trips, gave additional insight that we would probably not otherwise have had.

Traveler: Carol Ciancia and Peter O'Malley from Oakland, NJ traveled on March 05, 2011

The areas I want to cover are the tour guides and accommodations and other areas not specifically addressed. The actual itinerary is stated on the OAT website.

Indra Mainali from Nepal is quite possibly the best asset OAT has. He is patient, extremely personable, and provided an unbelieveable amount of information about Nepal. The 'fireside talks' we had several nights were the best things I have ever experienced with OAT.

Palee from Bhutan is quite personable though young. In time he will learn to herd the travelers a little better.

Keep in mind that the accommodations are typical of the area. Tashi Namgay Resort is very nice, good food, free internet, but away from the city. The thing to remember about this itinerary is that the very first thing you will do upon arrival is the Tiger's Nest Monastery. It took us 100 minutes to go up; Palee wouldn't let us ride donkeys...said is was unsafe. Also, wouldn't let us go past the tea house, not saying we wanted to. It would have been another two hours up.

If you go to Punakha, PLEASE TAKE BOOKS TO DONATE--all kinds. Someone could get them to the Punatsangchhu Cottages. The owner is trying to get books to create libraries in schools in Bhutan. If you stay there, you will feel like family.

Jumolhari Hotel in Thimphu is very nice...in the center of town and within walking distance to much. Hair dryers and 'honor system' internet.

Gokarna Forest Resort in Kathmandu used to be a hunting lodge for VIP. The location is a long way from everything; it is an excellent hotel with internet, good restaurant, hair dryers, and monkees running amok.

Sanctuary Lodge is really isolated. It will take a hour to walk from town (a road is being built and might be finished by spring eliminating this walk). It is a nice respite after Kathmandu. The staff is incredible; one gives a foot massage; food is very, very good; a generator provides electricity in the evenings. The school sponsored by OAT is over one hour UP HILL.

Seti River Camp is just that. Pictures are on the OAT website.

Pokhara Grande Hotel is very nice; hair dryers, good restaurant, but very expensive internet. Be sure to see the Annapurna Range from the rooftop during the day as well as at sunset.

Safari Narayani Hotel is on the river across from Chitwan National Park. They provide entertainment in the afternoons and evenings; it was cool during our stay and they put hot water bottles in our beds.

When OAT says this trip is not for everyone, they mean it. There are places you can't opt out. It is a requirement to hiketrek to get to your next lodging. If you need crutches or a wheel chair, you should not participate. Other than that I recommend this trip...especially Bhutan before it changes. They have lifted all restrictions on the number of visitors permitted. Go before there is a McDonalds, KFC, Holiday Inn, etc. and before the national dress is replaced with jeans and tee shirts. They do have one new car dealership and the glass and steel sticks out really ruining the area.

Traveler: Judy Williams from Shelburn, IN traveled on November 15, 2010

Wonderful trip! Previous reviewers have covered the Nepal portion very well. ATM's are not always reliable. They do not exist in Bhutan, unreliable in Nepal and Tibet. There will be more tips than stated in your book and shops and restaurants do not always take credit cards. Take plenty of cash. Nepal is really the "adventure" part with one terrific activity after another. We loved every minute. Bhutan is beautiful. One complaint; not enough time was allocated to the hike to the Tiger's Nest and we were told we could only go to the tea house. Our group was very well matched and could have gone all the way. If you really want to do it, tell your guide ahead of time. I got the idea our guide thought anyone from OAT would have a hard time getting there. He even commented after the hike we were the first group he had who stayed together going up and coming down. It took us 42 hours to get from Seattle to Paro and we did the climb the next day. If we had known ahead of time we would have asked for the schedule to be changed. Tibet was cold so we asked our guide to get us hot water bottles for the beds. They are available in the supermarket for 10 Yuan and worth every penny! Some of the rooms were cold soaked and it took a long time to warm them up. The lobby and hallways are freezing with heat only in the guest rooms. For the visit to the orphanage, we asked our guide what they needed and he suggested fruit. We stopped at a fruit stand and bought bananas and tangerines. Much better than trying to take something from home. There are strict weight limits on the airplanes so keeping your suitcase to 44 lbs takes creative packing. Layers work well so take lightweight items such as turtlenecks, long underwear, a fleece, and a windbreaker. Hat, gloves, and scarf are essential for the cold areas and trekking clothes with t-shirts for the warmer areas. Tibet was cold, Bhutan cool, and Nepal lovely. Think about sun shirts and bug repellant for Chitwan. There has been an outbreak of dengue in the area so keep arms and legs covered. When we arrived in Tibet we were picked up in a small van that was far too small for our group of 5. In the hour ride from the airport to Lhasa we were very uncomfortable so the next day we told our guide the van was OK for short trips in the city but for the long trip to Shigatse, etc, we needed a bigger bus. He got us a very comfortable bus which saved the day for the long trip over the mountain passes. Be prepared for long days on your feet, great hikes, many stairs at monastaries, and Potala Palace, at high altitudes. If going to Tibet, be prepared for altitudes of 12,000 to 16,000 feet. We had a terrific time, had wonderful guides, and a great group.

Traveler: Alan and Sue Reiter from Enumclaw, WA traveled on October 21, 2010

Nepal: historic monuments, nice people, trekking in the mountains, water rafting and elephant safari, adventure of a lifetime. The trip to Nepal starting at September 16, 2010 was excellent. Our group of 14 people was great, Suresh, our guide, was very knowledgeable, proud of his heritage and was ready to answer every question. I highly recommend this tour to everyone. I also agree with most of the previous reviews of this trip. It was the end of the monsoon season and we were very lucky to have only one rainy day. Maybe because of the monsoon, nobody took the pre- or post-trips from our group. Visiting Kathmandu’s colorful and historical Durbar square and the surrounding squares and streets with monuments, Hindu and Buddhist people, were great experience. We were fortunate to see Kumari (the young girl, who serves as a living goddess) from the window of Kumari Bahal or Che. I suggest reading a fascinating book “From Goodness to Mortal” by one of the former Kumaris, before you go the Nepal (buy through amazon.com). Unfortunately, the garbage collection needs to be improved, the traffic is chaotic, the street vendors are very pushy, and the air pollution is bad in Katmandu, but this old city is still very charming. Our hotel the Gokarna Forest Resort, the former royal hunting lodge in Kathmandu, was elegant and comfortable, but too far from downtown. The gift shop was too pricy. Take the optional trip of dawn flight to Mount Everest. It was breathtaking! Everybody took the optional trip to Bhaktapur, and enjoyed the lovely old town and the great lunch in an old historic restaurant, looking over a busy square with monuments, colorful shops and people. Pokhara is nice tourist town with a beautiful lake region and surrounding mountains of the Annapurna region (if you have a clear view). During our free afternoon, after visiting the vulture rescue place, we hired a cab (for 1000 rupees that is about $13) and visited the Gorkha museum, the Seti River Gorge, Devi’s Falls near to the Tibetan Settlement, and a very interesting cave with Hindu symbols and natural wonders (these are not in the OAT program). Our driver was very knowledgeable and a real local patriot, who gave us a full Pokhara tour. We highly recommend doing this. The Pokhara Grand Hotel was great with good gift shops that are the best place to buy good quality and well-priced gifts. I suggest buying CDs with Nepali music and you will really enjoy them when you are back home and looking at the thousand of pictures you took. If you are interested in paragliding with the birds you need to go in November when the birds are ready. Walking to the Sanctuary lodge was very pleasant, but a few members of the group found it too hard. They had the option to relax at the lodge and not participating in other trekking activities. During our free afternoon we walked all the way to Syauli Bazaar with our Gorkha guide. There are small restaurants only, but breathtaking view of the River. Do not miss it. Our trekking to the school and the Gorkha village was a little more challenging. I highly recommend investing in a good pair water proof hiking shoes. The road down was very slippery but the guides helped us. We had a leach contest (the highest was 6 leaches on one person). Using salt will help you remove the leaches, don’t to worry. The school visit was interesting. Do not bring more markers, or puzzles, they have got enough. One member of our group, brought a colorful parachute that can be used for many sportdancing activities. Bring small toys, balls or simple sport tools for the kids (sugarless bubble gum was also a great success). The water rafting on the Seti River was a great adventure. The water is warm, but the rapids were more like class 2-3. It was a little scary sometimes, but the view around the river was fantastic. We wish we had more rafting activities. The river camp is very comfortable with hot water, elegant tents, good food and fantastic view. Bring plenty of mosquito repellent! The morning elephant safari at the Chitwan National Park was one of the highlights of our trip. We did see many rhinos, elephants, crocodiles, and beautiful birds, like peacocks. The shaman program was also very colorful. We took the offer and requested a private session with him. I highly recommend using his “service”, it is very educational (and worked curing the problem we asked him to eliminate). Bathing the elephants was also great program for members of our group who participated, and for us who watch them doing it. Our good-bye dinner at the former royal palace in Katmandu was very memorable. The ladies of our group were dressed in saris, and the gentlemen in traditional Nepali costumes. We looked great! Unfortunately we had to return the dresses next morning. The only negative thing was the long flights from Boston to JFK, Brussels, New Delhi and finally to Kathmandu. We wished we had more free time in New Delhi and see something from the city. Bring plenty of cold medicine, anti diarrhea, and other digestive problem medicine and use the airborne medicine, before the long flights. Bring extra clothing as the laundry is done by hand and dried by the sun. We changed money at the hotel that was very convenient. Read the Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen before and after your trip. You will benefit from it. Have a great trip to Nepal. We will go back!

Traveler: Ildiko Toth from Belmont, MA traveled on September 16, 2010

My husband & I signed up for the Bhutan pre-trip (Mar 16-23) and the Nepal main (Mar 23-Apr6). As previous posters have indicated, this trip was a good survey trip. We would have liked a bit more hiking, but the trip gave us a good idea of what we’d like to do, if we visited again.

When hiking to the Tiger’s Nest, I needed to stop every now and again to catch my breath – my husband who skis at 10,000’ had no problem. My legs didn’t bother me – weren’t even sore the next day. It would have been better if we had a chance to acclimatize to altitude (People who booked Bhutan as pre-tour for India visited Punakha & Thimpu 1st).

The only snafu was OAT forgetting to pick us up at the Delhi airport… after ditching the tout who claimed to be an OAT rep., we went back into the airport & contacted Boston. All turned out well. If this had been my first OAT trip (I wouldn't have known how OAT reps. conducted themselves.), the outcome might have been different, but for us it was just an inconvenience and a good story.

I’ll focus the remainder of my review on items I would have liked to have known before we left home.

*** IF YOU TAKE THE BHUTAN PRE-TRIP: When flying from Paro to Kathmandu get a seat on the RIGHT-hand side of the plane preferably in the back where your view is not blocked by the wing. IF the weather is clear, you get an amazing view of Everest and its sister peaks. I skipped the Everest optional tour because I got a fantastic view, for free, courtesy of DrukAir.

SCHOOLVILLAGE VISITS: The school (class 1-3), in Nepal, had an overabundance of writing supplies due to generosity of OAT travelers. What they didn’t have were writing tablets or simple picture story books. Our group purchased tablets, badminton set, soccer ball w pump in Pokhara to be delivered by the trekking company on their next trip to Sanctuary Lodge – hopefully, they made it to the school. We did not have lunch with a family, but we did have lunch at the “day-in-the-life-of” village, prepared by the staff from Sanctuary Lodge.

MONEY EXCHANGE: In Bhutan, exchange money at Paro airport when you arrive. Supposedly, Bhutanese accept $US but I was often unable to purchase items. We weren’t able to exchange money until the end of our trip, in Thimpu. If you shop where there are a lot of tourists, you can use $US. Change money in Kathmandu at the hotel – OK rate – though it was pretty easy to exchange money…if the ATMs had power & money.

WEATHER: Start checking the weather websites a couple of weeks before you leave. In Bhutan the evenings were cool (websites said 40s, but that must have been late at night), but a light long-sleeved shirt was fine to keep the chill off … no fleece or heavy jackets were necessary. All lodging was adequately heated…extra blankets if you needed. In Nepal NO warm clothes were needed. The days were 80 – 100, low humidity. It, thankfully, cooled off in the evenings- short sleeves OK though folks from south Florida sometimes wore light nylon jackets. When rafting, it was cooler in the early morning but by 9am it warmed up. The lower the altitude, the hotter it was. Activities were planned for the morning & late afternoon – leisure time in the heat of the day.

PACKINGCLOTHING: - Hat & sunblock a must … and insect repellant especially for the Nepalese no-see-um type biting insects. Bring a flashlight andor headlamp – room lights are dim (often too dim to read). Nepal loses power a lot. Hotels have generators but don’t always use them. I brought a small LED flashlight and a headlamp. Both came in handy - when we were on the street and in our rooms.
Wearing shorts during visits to mountain villages, hiking, at rafting camp, in Pokhara & in Chitwan was just fine. In Kathmandu, shorts might have looked out of place (time of year) - capris were fine. Quick-dry pants and waterproofquick drying foot ware a MUST for the rafting - pack extra shoes in the dry bag. Yes, we got wet while rafting, but it was refreshing. Crocs worked well for lodges and in camp.

For the hikes, some folks liked boots with ankle support since the terrain was uneven. I just used low-top Keen light hiking shoes & didn't have a problem. In Nepal, the stone paths are often uneven. In some places it’s as if they poured mud over a riverbed… so balancing on the stones was easier with hiking shoes and poles. The trekking office loaned folks a daypack and a hiking pole – I prefer 2 so I brought my own (poles helped me keep my balance when walking on slippery or steep terrain – also helped my knees when going downhill.). They also gave us a canvas hat & water bottle, to keep.

For Seti River camp and Sanctuary Lodge stays bring a CARRY-ON sized bag for your belongings – your larger bag will be stored. Sanctuary Lodge (3 nights), porters CARRIED our bags, in baskets on their backs, the 2.5 hours hike to the lodge. For the Seti River portion (2 nights) - belongings must fit in a duffel-sized dry bag which was lashed to our raft. Small valuables were put in a dry bag which was stored in a water tight barrel on the raft. It was useful to have a small waterproof pouch for our camera. One traveler had a waterproof camera which was very handy. The guide said we’d have access to items in the water tight barrel, but that was really not an option.

NOTE: If OAT sends you the duffle bag, that is NOT the bag you need to bring. One couple brought a larger suitcase than they wanted to just so they could pack that duffle. OAT customer service erroneously insisted the duffle was the bag they needed to bring.

TIPPING: (always optional):
- if you have leftover local currency, you can always use it to tip the guide at the end of the trip

Bhutan: we had one driver and one guide the entire trip. Average montly salary is $250.

Nepal:
- average monthly salary is $550 in Kathmandu - less elsewhere
- we had one guide & 3 drivers (each driver had a helper – our guide suggested tipping 6040)
- Kathmandu hotel: guide collected $US 5 per person to hand out to staff – first stay only
-Sanctuary lodge: trekking guides (primary and helper) were with us on every hike – tip when we said goodbye (guide recommended 6040 split, but we gave more to the primary since he was really like a second tour guide); tip porters at the end of the trip – communal tip bag - (the same porters transport all our luggage both ways); lodge personnel have a communal tip box
- Seti River Camp: communal tip box for camp staff; tip raft crew at the end when you say good-bye – communal tip bag
- Chitwan: naturalist was with us the entire time & accompanied us to the airport - tipped him before we left for Kathmandu; some people tipped their elephant drivers directly; there is a communal tip box for lodge staff.
- we gave local currency to porters & others who might have difficulty exchanging money

Traveler: Susan Kusano from San Pablo, CA traveled on March 15, 2010

Fabulous Trip! it is well organized by OAT and well orchestrated by their local agents in Nepal. Our guide, Raj was excellent, extremely helpful, kind and sensitive to individual interests and needs. He contacted participants by email in advance of the trip and I was able to ask questions about clothing,etc.

Some suggestions:

1. Do the optional early-morning Everest flight on Yeti Airlines. OAT’s Nepal agents will call you from the airport when the flight is a ”go” as sometimes there are long delays due to fog. If you have to wait, it is much more comfortable to relax at your hotel ( 15 min. from the airport) than at the airports waiting room.

If you do find yourself waiting at the airport, there is good internet service in a corner alcove with about 4 computers. It has an excellent connection.

2. Lightweight boots are helpful for the trek on days 6,7,8.

3. Feel free to bring school supplies for the school visit. Your guide will arrange for you to give them to the teachers who will distribute to the children.

4. I found a headlamp especially useful at the Seti River Camp as even though flashlights are provided, I needed more light. Though there is electricity at the other hotels and camps, sometimes lamps are not well placed enough for reading.


And be aware:

1. The best no-stress shopping with decent prices was in Pokhara. The main street is about a mile long and lined with shops. They sell a lot of “branded” Columbia, Northface, and Nike items - though well made, are fake. On a more positive note, if you have any silver jewelry that needs to be repaired, this is the place to have it done. I had new clasps put on some bracelets and a necklace re-strung in about an hour. Also you can have t-shirts custom embroidered. Look for the shops with sewing machines in front.

2. At the Seti River Camp, be very careful about the eves over the tent. They are very sharp! I got a nasty gash on my head and had to be patched up by the rafting captain.


3. . At the present time Indian visas have a “Two Month Rule” for holders of long term (5 and 10 year) visas. If you have one of these long term visas you must obtain a waiver to re-enter India in less than two months. Be forewarned - this is a time-consuming process. (OAT’s local Nepal agents were especially helpful to me in securing this, though it took a lot of time and aggravation and I missed a full day of touring with the group). Don’t worry about this if you have a 6 month double-entry visa -- the rule is only for long-term visa holders.


4. If you purchase the trip on a land-only basis - make sure you know where the trip begins and ends (Delhi? Kathmandu?) , the dates of your first and last hotel nights and whether or not air from Delhi -Kathmandu-Delhi included. There were some irregularities in my reservation which created problems, but were later resolved.


This is a wonderful trip and a great experience. Even though I had been to Nepal before, it was a joy to visit it again.

Traveler: Esther from Illinois traveled on January 13, 2010

This was the most varied and active OAT trip we have been on. It was absolutely wonderful and the way I wish all of the trips would be. Of course, in the OAT tradition, we had a terrific guide. Ram was attentive to our needs, informed, interesting and truly fabulous. We loved the trekking, the rafting was long a cold (due to time of year) and we wished we had another day on safari. The people of Nepal are beautiful and friendly.
A must trip for anyone wanting a great adventure.

Traveler: Marlene from Arlington, MA traveled on December 24, 2009

This trip, plus the Tibet post-trip, exposed me to a part of the world I've long wanted to visit. I found the culture fascinating, and an added bonus was that our trip was during the rice harvest. The rice paddies were humming with activity in Nepal and we had many Kodak moments during our hiking adventure.

The Himalayas were spectacular, although it took three tries in the sightseeing plane to see them (the first time the mountains were shrouded in fog, and the second time the rain prevented the plane from even taking off). The wait was worth it, as was the flight over the Himalayas from Nepal to Tibet and back in glorious weather.

After visiting India last year on OAT's Heart of India trip, I thought Kathmandu and the rest of Nepal were amazingly clean and the colorful crowds didn't phase me. I never get my fill of picturesque temples, unusual city sights, pretty countryside or friendly people. Nepal has a wealth of variety and we were exposed to a taste of it.

Tibet was another world altogether. Radically different scenery, some of the most gorgeous lakes I've ever seen, and truly fascinating people. Buddhism is different in every culture, and Tibetan Buddhism is probably the most different of all. We were able to see pilgrims prostrating themselves in front of temples, walking circles of devotion around temples, and praying inside some of the most sacred temples in Tibet. The Chinese influence on Tibet is everywhere, to the point where Tibet in many places is more Chinese than Tibetan. If you want to witness a culture in peril before it disappears, visit Tibet now.

Traveler: Valerie from San Antonio, TX traveled on October 03, 2009

As a long-time traveler with OAT and having been to Nepal 11 years ago and hiked the Everest Trail, I was excited to see this new program offered and had a first-hand report from another OAT traveler who did this program last spring. He spoke quite highly of it and said that I would like it because it was a true "adventure" program. He was right and in my opinion OAT's only true adventure program.

I did not take the pre-trip to Bhutan but those who did spoke very enthusiastically about it. Since I had previously been to Tibet, I didn't go there for a return visit.
If you haven't traveled to this part of the world and are not accustomed to horrendous pollution, crowds of people both locals and tourists in the cities, hotels which may not be to your standards than this is not the adventure for you.

Some highlights included visiting Kathmandu and its temples, Pashupatinath and the cremation sites, trekking to Sanctuary Lodge and daily treks from there in the mountains to local villages untouched by tourists, river rafting on the Seti and staying in a river camp which according to some that I've stayed in was quite nice, the optional Everest flight that many experienced, and the elephants at Chitwan National Park. Of course the food in Nepal is also daily adventure more so for some than others.

Would I recommend this trip, most heartedly, YES, bearing in mind that you do need to be physically fit, have an adventuresome outlook and attitude, be willing to endure the most tiring flights from the west coast through India to Nepal (please OAT think this one over and either find a better routing or people should make their own air arrangements).

I would encourage OAT to feature more trips of this kind in the future.

Traveler: Hilda from Santa Barbara, CA traveled on November 23, 2009

Our recent trip to Nepal with a pre-trip to Bhutan was surprising in many ways and mostly very enjoyable. We had always wanted to visit Nepal because of our love of the mountains and the Himalayas are the ultimate mountains of the world. Unfortunately there is very little connection with the mountains in this trip, except for amazing views from several plane rides including the optional Everest "fly by" trip, and intermittent views of "Fishtail" mountain and Annapurna South, while trekking and at Santuary Lodge.
Except for the fun with the elephants near Chitwan National Park (closed while we were there) and the dugout canoe ride, most of the trip was a cultural adventure, with discovery mainly concerning the people of Nepal.
OAT did a very poor job with the flights to get to India and back, not seating the 2 of us together, for one thing or even making seat choice available. Also anyone flying from the west coast should definately make their own arrangements or they will be forced to fly the wrong direction to the other side of the world, making their trip much longer.
Once in Delhi we were well taken care of, except that the hotel was a mighty long way from the airport and the interesting part of the city, making for long rides in the dark. Once we were off to Bhutan things were wonderful, especially with the views of the mountains on the way. Bhutan is delightful and our guide, Dorje, was excellent and knowledgeble. We were thoroughly introduced to Bhutan and its people, culture and especially its version of Buddhism. The lodgeshotels were all great, but 2 of the 3 were not the ones we were told to tell our relatives that we would be staying in. They were comfortable and we enjoyed the staff putting hot water bottles in our beds in the evening.
I was a little concerned about the reported vigorousness of the hike to "Tiger's Nest", but it was doable, though I must confess our group only went to the view point where we sat in the sun and were served tea and crackers. It was a gorgeous day (as they all are in November I think) and the view was spectacular.
Bhutan is delightful with its painted wooden houses, residents in their native dress and the friendliness of the people. We also loved the Takins! The price of souveniers, not so much. But compared to being in India or Nepal it was like being in OZ. We topped off our last evening by paying to have some dancers entertain us before dinner with some traditional dancing at the suggestion of one of our group.
The problem is we flew from this idylic little, almost untouched country past the glorius Himalayas into the filthy stews of teeming Kathmandu. What a shock! The dirt and trash all over, we expected but the filth in the air was unbelievable. Even the Bouganvillias were so covered in dirt one could hardly appreciate them. Then there was all the hassling from street vendors and beggers and children starting near the famous Durbar Square. After that my asthma started up and I had to get out my inhaler, which I had not had to use in several years. Masks should have been on the list of things to bring.
Fortunately the next day in Kathmandu was much better. We really enjoyed Swayambhunath, the great Buddhist temple and the "monkey" temple with its great views of the city and even a peak at one of the high mountains. The most fascinating thing though was our morning visit to Pashupatinath, the Hindu temple near which are the cremations. It was really quite remarkable and moving to observe the whole process. Also the visit to Patan, where we had lunch in the museum gardens was very enjoyable.
Next morning (after our glorious early morning Everest flight) we were off to Pokhara and the beginning of our trek. We were outfitted up once we arrived, with walking sticks (though I brought my own), back packs, hats and water bottles. Then we were bused over some amazing roads with beautiful mountain views to our trail head for our hike to Sanctuary Lodge. The hiking was mostly up hill and up and down stone steps, through a bunch of villages and many farms along and crossing the beautiful Modi river. This area of Nepal, as in most areas except above 8000' maybe, is very crowded with peasant farmers and villagers making their living growing rice and wheat year round in thousands of terraced fields reaching high up on the mountainside. We enjoyed Sanctuary Lodge and our evenings around the fire, with really yummy pre-dinner snacks. We especially liked our early morning wake up to coffeetea at our door and early views of the glorious Machupuchre Mt..
The treks in the area were very enjoyable and we enjoyed the visits with the friendly people. Unfortunately our school visit was hampered by the strike called by the Maoists, that kept the teachers away, but we did see the school in its glorious setting and a number of the children to whom we gave some crayons and constructions paper, and showed them how to make paper airplanes. The hiking up the steep hill to this village was a challenge because of the thousands of stone steps. I was very grateful to have brought my 2 walking poles, for balance, if nothing else.
Back in Pokhara, 2 of our group decided to go paragliding. The rest of us were not quite as adventurous. We really enjoyed the presentation at the raptor rescue resort, where they are in the business of saving the threatened raptors of Nepal, especially now the vultures who have recently been decimated by 90+%, because of being poisoned by a medication in cattle that have died. It is a very dangerous situation that can have disastrous effects in the country.
Pokhara is basically "shopping city" for tourists and is also the place to get money, from the ATMs, the best way to do it in this country. Also it can only be done in Pokhara and Kathmandu. So between tips and shopping...got to think ahead. We stayed in the new hotel, Mt Kailash, which was great, except for the mothballs! They were in all the drains and made the room stink. We had to buy some incense to burn in the room. The upside was in the morning we went up on the roof and had a really spectacular view of the whole Annapurna range!
The Seti river trip was great and very relaxing, once we got on the water. The ride down to the put it point through the main city of Pokhara and a lot of grungy towns along the way was fairly dreary. They once again got us all dressed up for the raft trip, with "waterproof" gear and raft sock and helmet and life vest and paddle. I had my own "wet" gear which worked out better for me and I found I should have worn a "bill" cap under the helmet (for sun) rather than the brimmed hat which covered my ears and kept me from hearing the guides instructions. It was fun and we didn't get too wet, except for feet of course. The tent camp was delightful, but if you want to read at night, it is best to bring a head lamp. There were many early morning calls on this trip, but nobody minded as we mostly went to bed right after dinner and it made for very long nights! One can only read by headlamp in bed for so long...
The final part of the trip was the Chitwan area, which was not the park (much to our disappointment). The lodge "Green Mansions" was very nice, though very damp and none of our river clothes dried at all (they did later at the hotel in Kathmandu). The great fun was all the elephant interaction, visiting the elephant conservation center, seeing baby elephants including twins, watching an elephant soccer game, riding an elephant bareback and giving it a bath in the river in addition to the main elephant ride into the forest where we found Rhinos and deer we could walk right up to. Also there was an enjoyable dugout canoe ride where we saw Marsh Magger Crocs and one glorious Gharial (very endangered) and lots of glorious birds.
Then it was back to Kathmandu and one last beautiful flight in the smallest of planes. The Everest Hotel was a nice quiet oasis in which to spend our last day. And we did have a really great traditional Nepalese dinner at a former palace, where we sat on cushions on the floor. The food in general was quite good and there was always something enjoyable to eat, and much healthier food than we get at home. Also, unlike some trips, water was always available and there were no charges for it, except in restaurants.
It was a trip of much "adventure and discovery"

Traveler: Steve & Sheri from Brownsville, MD traveled on November 24, 2009

This was my fourth trip to Nepal. I was anxious for my wife, Anne, to meet some of the friends I have made over the years, in particular -Tashi and Chirring whom we support at Boarding school in Kathmandu. Meeting local people is always a highlight for us and we love going to the schools that Grand Circle sponsors.

Kathmandu is a hustly, bustly place where anarchy seems to be the rule of the day and where honking is derigueur. Returning from the monkey temple it took us about an hour to negotiate a right hand turn after we arrived at the middle of the intersection - this was inspite of the presence of a Traffic warden. We were stopped for an hour and a half by Maoists in Pokhara while the army looked on.

Kathmandu is a colorful place with saris, sadhus, street merchants and temples. The traffic is impossible and makes one wonder how it will be in a few years when more people have cars and motorbikes. Nepal is the largest market for Yamaha bikes.

Pokhara is, by contrast, a peaceful place situated on Phewa Lake with views of Machupucchere. It has the best restaurant that we visited on the tour - "Moon Dance." It also hosts "Maya Devi" - a retreat for KItes - you can try your hand at parahawking. We went to the local Rotary club meeting, so that Anne could continue her perfect attendance. This is a great opportunity to meet local professionals.

OAT made two last minute changes to our schedule which worked well for us - we were booked into the Kailash Hotel in Pokhara which was brand new and we stayed in the Basanta Lodge on the Annapurna section of the tour. We learned that this was a nicer place than Sanctuary Lodge and was at a higher elevation and gave us superb views of the Annapurnas. I.P. Gurung, an ex Gurkha who runs the place treats everyone like family. We had the opportunity to visit the Rising Sun Academy School where we distributed pens and pencils. - GC should consider supporting this school. We think, in future, it would be nice for OAT members to be able to do a circular tour in the Annapurna Sanctuary and stay at three lodges instead of one.

Our trip down the Seti River was the low point because it was cold on the river. We departed Seti RIver camp before the sun came over the mountains. In addition Anne and I and a few other people got sick. It could be that the water which comes form the village up above was not boiled enough? The hot water supply was intermittent. When you compare this to Basanta Lodge, it did seem to have inferior management.

Chitwan was the absolute highlight dfor us. We got to ride elephants bareback. The cnounters with Asian Rhios and Elephangs were wonderful.
Bijay our guide wnet above and beyond and introduced us to his family when we returned to Akthamandy. It was certainly a great adventure.

Traveler: Christopher from Rockport, MA traveled on November 24, 2009

I had a great time on this tripadventure. It far exceeded my expectations. The people were very nice and I felt safe for the entire trip. There was something new and exciting to do every day-trekking, rafting, flying over Mt. Everest, riding elephants, going in dugout canoes through rivers with crocs on the banks, viewing how people lived and traveling with a great group of new friends. Sanjib, our leader was fantastic. I was sad when it came to an end.

Traveler: Tobin from Shreveport, LA traveled on November 14, 2009

I want to say that both tours were great and worthwhile, with good accomodations, food and guides. One exception was that the guide was nowhere to be found when we arrived in Bhutan. And no emergency phone number was supplied by OAT, so we waited. We ate well and felt pampered on the whole. Babu was GREAT!

I also want to say that I experienced more frustration leading up to this trip than ever before with OAT. A mysterious refund appeared and was billed back to me later. No real explanation. The itinerary changed so much even the guide didn't know where we were staying, or what activity in Bhutan had been promised to make up for a delayed trip to Nepal. No two itineraries agreed - the web, the letter(s) or the "final" booklet. Calling to ask was pretty useless.

We were not told in advance of the many hotel changes (at least half) or that Chitwan Park was closed. The airline arrangements from Seattle were horrible. One layover was 26 hours. Just for this alone, I am probably done travelling with OAT. If OAT cannot serve the west coast properly, they should get out of that business, or get better airline contracts in place.

Traveler: Helen and Robert from Port Townsend, WA traveled on November 05, 2009

This was a wonderful trip full of " Kodak" and National Geographic moments. The people , especially in the countryside, were very nice to meet and talk to. The flight to Mt. Everest was a dream event I never in 50+ years thought would be possible and it was a perfect morning, The entire trip was an Adventure trip and everything was handled expertly by our trip leader, Sahadev Panday (Dave). The river rafting and elephant safari were the fun part of the two weeks. The sight of a snow covered peak from everyplace except Chitwan was a different experience for us. Altogether, one of our best trips ever !!!!!

Traveler: John and Carolyn from Ocala, FL traveled on November 05, 2009

An excellent adventure with a wide variety of experiences -- very mind- and eye-opening. The contrast between warm, colorful, chaotic Kathmandu Nepal and cold, ordered, well-planned Lhasa Tibet made a lasting impression on me. This trip is best for those with the stamina for hiking and some climbing, though it certainly is not truly strenuous. Food in Nepal was better than I thought it would be; tasty and not as spicy hot as Bhutan or India.The temples and monasteries of Tibet began to blur into sameness until the Buddha-Comes-Down-to-Earth festival and we watched monks playfully making "tsok." At this time of year, be sure to pack for both hot and humid (Chitwan) and icy cold (Tibet) where 4 layers were needed. Also we were glad we took medication for altitude in Tibet. In all, a wonderful, memorable trip - many good surprises and excellent traveling companions. We're planning a reunion!

Traveler: Anne from Claremont, CA traveled on October 19, 2009

Overall this was a great adventure for those who love hiking and rafting. The "extra" hikes were challenging but worthwhile as we saw more of the lush countryside and small villages.
More time was needed in Brathetpur as it is a charming old city with wonderful architecture and winding streets.
The only downside was the roach and mold infested hotel in Pokhara (very unlike OAT) and for me the sameness of the food.

Traveler: Barbara from New York, NY traveled on October 03, 2009

Other reviewers summed up the trip pretty well. Our guides Tshiering in Bhutan and Ram in Nepal were great. I made a website that has enough info and pictures to interestbore anyone.
http:users.cwnet.comshellybhunepindex.html

Traveler: Sheldon from Menlo Park, CA traveled on September 19, 2009

Rameshwar Shrestha (Ram) was the greatest guide ever! He made certain that this trip met the expectations of each and every one of the 7 of us in our very small, atypical OAT group! He even keeps in touch via e-mail with his clients prior to and after their adventures! Those contemplating this trip might enjoy Ani Choying Drolma's biography, Singing for Freedom.

Traveler: Jan and Art from Burnsville, MN traveled on September 07, 2009

Event though it was the most strenuous trip I have ever been on, I was phantastic. I can't stress enough that one has to be in great phisical shape.. The only thing I would change is to go on the hike to the Tea House a day or two later. Especially after going without sleep one night in India. I made it up to the Tea House, but it was difficult. It was easy sailing for me from then on. I wouldn't mind going to Bhutan again, especially since there are not too many tourists at this time.
The country of Nepal was very interesting. I had been to the capital before but never experienced the beauty of the outlying areas. Never went water-rafting before and am now looking forward to doing it again - it was great.,
Tibet is another story. I had been in Tibet for a month nine years ago. The people are friendly as before. But, getting there was difficult. It took 2-12 hours from the time the plane touched down to get out of the airport. The Chinese came on board, took every travelers temperature before we got off. Once we got off, they pulled me out and examined me some more. They told my fellow travelers that they might have to put me in the hospital, they thought I had the swine flu. Would I do it again? Yes I would. I really like Tibet and the people there. However, one has to have a lot of patience to go through that and I would not recommend this extention to people who are impatient.

Traveler: Hanna from Yucca Valley, CA traveled on May 05, 2009

The other reviews have described them all vividly and I concur with all the positive reviews.

I need to give credence to our guide Ram (Rameshwar Shrestha) who hails from kathmandu. He was very amiable, knowledgeable, helpful and always had that awesome smile on his face first thing in the morning. OAT could not have picked better tour leaders for their trips.

I did the pre trip to Bhutan and enjoyed that very much as well. Our trip leader Phub Dorji was spectacular. The post trip to Tibet was cancelled. Just as well as it gave me a reason to go the following month on the Imperial China, Tibet & the Yangtze River Cruise.

I enjoyed this trip immensely that I had booked a return trip for Nepal in December 2009 - January 2010.

Thank you OATS for the "free" single accommodations you provided for two of my trips. Also, for allowing me to do a break-away trip in Nepal so that I may return some goodwill for the people of Nepal. You guys in Boston rock!

Traveler: Cynthia from Corona Del Mar, CA traveled on February 10, 2009

Yep, that's right, our 31 day trip lasted only 21 days. The Chinese were in a snit because Bhutan, Nepal, and India lent support for the Dalia Lama. Because of this, China will not issue Tibetan visas for people traveling in those countries.

This was our second flight to Delhi in three months as we spent New Years there this year with the OAT India trip. On the flight from Delhi to Paro, Bhutan, we saw the top of Mt. Everest. We met our guide, Durji, who was knowledgeable, efficient and a personable 27 year old man. English is taught in school at an early time and is widely known, so communication was not a problem. After touch down, we immediately left to go to the national museum - a watch tower built in 1647. It is a seven story building and quite a maze to navigate with a lot of low doors. One of the amazing things about the museum is it did not have a gift shop at the exit.

The next morning we climbed to Tiger's Nest, a monastery on the side of a sheer mountain. Our climb started at 8000 ft. and finished at 12,000 ft. Unfortunately, we climbed up 700 ft., down 500 ft., up 900 ft., down 300 ft., etc., you get the idea. Even Bonnie was winded, but fortunately the elevation did not affect her like it did in Macchu Pichu, so no headaches. Prior to the final ascent up the mountain, we had left our backpack with some non-climbers at a halfway point. Unfortunately we left our permit to enter the Monastery in the backpack. We discovered this fact about 40 yards from the entrance. We noticed a Nepalese guide with a University of Texas Longhorns hat, Karma Dotey, and asked for assistance. Karma had graduated from UT and he promised to help us out. The next thing we knew, we were invited to join Michael Dell's (Dell computer) private tour with his wife and daughter. Michael was quite fit, his wife and daughter, not so much. We had a great time.



In Bhutan, the traffic on the roads is light and the best news is that there is not one stoplight in the whole country! While it is not a rich country, we did not see abject poverty or shanties like we did in India. The government provides a safety net. The houses are all of a Bhutanese style and when building a house, a family pays a carpenter to frame the house. The neighbors help create the mud walls by building forms and adding the mud. The women pound the mud down into the seams and the men haul up more mud. After a section is done, the forms are removed and the process starts over.

We stopped at a very small village to visit a farmer's house that is 150 years old. The family is quite poor and they live on the second floor in two rooms. Their only possessions are pictures of the King and his ancestors, a shrine, and a small propane stove for cooking. They have a small garden and down the hill a small rice paddy. We spent time talking with them about their life.

While walking in the middle of nowhere, we found a huge painted relief carving of Lord Buddha on the side of a very large rock. When a community does not have enough money to fund a temple, they commission a painting such as this to improve their karma. Dorji bought prayer flags for us. As normal, it was a 2 hour walk through the mountains and terraced rice paddies on a narrow trail and then a climb up to the temple. Dorji had the prayer flags blessed with holy water at the Chimi Lhakhang Monastery. The next day when we drove from Paro to Punakha and stopped at a 10,000 ft pass and hung our prayer flags. At the top of the pass there is a Buddhist temple, lots of prayer flags, and 108 stupas. Stupas are memorials to Buddha and 108 is a lucky number in Buddhism. Our flags have prayers written in Sanskrit and when the wind blows, the prayers are scattered and the blessings fall on the people. We prayed for good luck for all, a safe journey in Bhutan and Nepal, and that our trip to Tibet would not be canceled. (Apparently since we are not Buddhist - our wishes regarding Tibetan travel did not come true) We drove for 3 hours to Thimphu, the capital and largest city in Bhutan, 70,000. In Thimphu the streets were clean and there was no traffic, the same as the entire country. The country's total population is 700,000.

We walked around inside an old fort that now houses monks. This fort actually housed female monks! As the monks were going about their duties, horns were playing, bells were heard, prayer wheels were spun. We had the temple to ourselves, except for an occasional monk that strolled by. One monk had a whip and walked around snapping the flail ensuring the monks were doing their duties properly. It seemed largely a ceremonial job.

We caught our plane to Kathmandu and the transition from Bhutan to Nepal was shattering. It is hard to imagine that two countries that are not that far apart could be so different. Of course, the city of Thimphu has 70,000 people and Kathmandu has 5,000,000 residents, still we have been to many cities that large and never saw anything like this. Kathmandu is the capital and largest city of Nepal. It is also the filthiest, most disgusting city we have ever encountered. Apparently the out of doors is the community trashcan as garbage is everywhere on the streets, between buildings and anywhere there is pavement, dirt or a floor. Kathmandu does not have any true Nepalese living there any more. Transplants from India moved in and the Indians have taken the worst of Delhi and brought it to another country. Pitiful! We have heard about Kathmandu ("Katmandu") from Bob Seger for years and had always wanted to visit. If you ever fly there, stay in the airport and bypass this city.

In Kathmandu, we explored Patan Durbar Square, one of the seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Nepal and Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple. This famous stupa has been attracting Buddhist pilgrims for at least 1,500 years. This gold-crowned stupa sits atop a hill, crowned with hundreds of prayer flags that fill the sky like multi-colored clouds. Worshippers circle the stupa in clockwise fashion as they pray, spin prayer wheels, and light candles. On our first night here we ate at Rum Doodle for dinner, a famous hangout for mountain climbers. They give out large paper feet that people write names, dates, etc and then pin them on the walls and ceiling. The next morning, I got up early and took a flight to Mt Everest, known in Nepal as Sagarmatha or "Goddess of the Sky." The summit height is 29,029 feet above sea level, Mount Everest earns the title of the tallest peak on earth. Our flight with Buddha Air was an 18 passenger Beechcraft airplane. We felt lucky to fly since the previous day's flight was canceled due to poor weather.

After the flight, we traveled about 2 hours on very bad roads to meet our porters, all women. They loaded up our bags in large wicker baskets, put the head band over their heads and lifted the load. We then trekked for about 3 hours on a level walk. (Level is relative in this country because there were lots of ups and downs) As we were walking in the mountains in the middle of nowhere, many individuals came running past us. It turns out that they were participating in a 100K race (60 miles at 4500 ft.)! There were no bystanders around the area to offer water to the runners. Our room at the Sanctuary Lodge had a view of Macchapuchare, or Fishtail Mountain, a sacred peak that has never been summitted. We met the Lodge staff; largely ex-Gorkha from the British or Indian armies. Gorkhas are warrior class soldiers of the classic Hindu tradition. Known for their military prowess, courage, and loyalty, many Gorkhas were recruited by the British Army during their occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Now, after their 8 years of military service is over, many of them soldiers serve as sherpa guides up Mt. Everest. Of the seven workers at our Lodge, five of them were sherpas and shared many climbing tales.

Nepal is going through some challenging times due to little rain and snow melt that has the reservoirs very low. Our trip was completely safe, but electricity is not something you can count on: nationwide, it is provided only 8 hours a day on a rolling schedule. In Kathmandu, they only have power from 4:00pm to 8:00 pm. Our hotel, the Everest Hotel, had generators and provided power all the time. Here at Sanctuary Lodge we have electricity from 7:30pm to 9:30pm. In Nepal, three of our lodging areas depended primarily on solar energy for hot water and kerosene lamps or flashlights for the evening.

As we did in Bhutan, we normally trekked five to seven hours a day in Nepal walking to nearby villages and looking around. When walking through villages, and due to our small group size, we have the chance to interact with the villagers as they move through their day of feeding the animals, farming and caring for their children. In Nepal, we visited the local police station to ask questions about the local crime, mainly people that drink too much. We visited a local house that serves as a museum and they showed us how grain is milled and how the distill spirits. It is a very simple still, but apparently works since almost all houses have one, another reason to support your neighbors. Many villages have about 80 - 100 people in it. A lot of the men work in the Middle East or in Asian countries so the women became organized and run the village. We went into many homes and got an idea about how the villagers live. The house has dried clay walls and floors. Every few days the women wipe the traffic areas with a thin coat of clay and cow dung; this makes a very attractive finish. Also, many homes have one or more bee hives. They gather honey two or three times a year and put it in wooden barrels. The honey was very tasty.

Our trip leader, Raj, was very knowledgeable and accommodating. We had many evening talks around campfires about Nepali cultural and political topics. He also got us access to a number of homes we came across on our treks and helped us see life from a Nepali point of view. The simplicity of the hill life there, lacking many things we take for granted (like running water and electric lighting), seemed a pretty happy place for the people we encountered.

We took a boat ride to an island in the middle of Lake Fewa, near Pokara. There is a Hindu temple there dedicated to a goddess. People bring chickens and goats to be sacrificed. The priests perform rituals and then slay the animals. The people do get the animals back and then have a feast. It was strange and somewhat sad to see the animals walking to the temple and then being carried out, but at least the sacrifice was used as food rather than ceremonial fodder for the Gods.

We went to the International Mountain Climbing Museum in Pokhara. The IMCM comprises four galleries, a research center, events, educational activities and climbing opportunities. It was quite interesting and explained about the major ascents over 8,000m (26,000ft+). Everest was first successfully climbed in 1953. Since then, many Sherpas have climbed it multiple times. The fee for a climbing expedition is $36,000. One Sherpa climbed from base camp (17,000 ft) to the summit (29,000+ft) in 8 hours. He stayed on the summit for 20 hours, all without oxygen assistance and it remains a record.

We ate lunch at a raptor sanctuary. This guy from England and his wife from Sweden (oh yeah...there are pictures of her) take in injured birds, care for them and then send the back into the wild. They have been trained the raptors to fly with the hang gliders on the cliffs. The birds used their natural ability to find updraft thermals and the hang gliders follow them to extend their flights. The birds do fly to your arm when you are up in the hang glider. Bonnie and I immediately signed up to do this but could not since the wind had died down for the day and we would not be there the next morning because of our raft trip.

We rafted a few hours down the Seti River to our camp. Along the river banks, women wash clothes, men fish with sticks and cloth nets, and children swim and play. At camp, we are in tents under a roof and there is a bathroom just outside the tent. There is no electricity here although they put out kerosene lanterns at night. We have tea at 4:00pm and happy hour at 6:00pm. We trekked through many villages during our morning four hour walk. When wandering around, we found some ladies distilling the local brew. The women offered us several shots and it wasn't too bad. I distinctly remember that the women in that village were very pretty.

Our final leg took us to Chitwa National Park. Royal Chitwan National Park is the oldest national park in Nepal, and it lies in the subtropical inner Terai lowlands of South-Central Nepal. The park was designated as a World Heritage Site in 1984. For centuries, the dense jungle covering the foothills of the Himalayas formed an impenetrable barrier for Nepal, keeping it a hidden and mysterious land. As the world began to explore Nepal, the jungle of the Royal Chitwan National Park was established to help the jungle remain protected, pristine and full of adventure. There are more than 43 species of mammals, over 450 species of birds, and more than 45 species of amphibians and reptiles in the park including the Common Leopard, Bengal fox, and Barking deer (barks like a dog). We and our baggage were loaded on an old army truck for the trip to Machan camp. The cabin is nice but again, no electricity. We took an elephant ride in the afternoon and the highlight was finding a rhino. He was surrounded by several elephants, but the guides finally opened a route; so, he could escape into the jungle.

Once again, it was great to spend time interacting with another culture. Bonnie and I leave for Israel with OAT tomorrow, May 27, for two weeks. Spending time with the quiet and peaceful Buddhists and encountering the Hebrews should be an interesting contrast. Then again, maybe not, as we find that all cultures have great people that embrace travelers who are interested in their lives and country. The exception may be the ultra-Orthodox, because Rabbi did warn Bonnie and me to not hold hands in Jerusalem because we may be spat upon. Of course, I intend to test that theory.

Shalom,

Bonnie and John

http:www.flickr.comphotosmudflap99sets

Traveler: John & Bonnie from Houston, TX traveled on March 17, 2009

This was one of our all time favorite trips with OAT, mainly because of the physical activity, beautiful scenery and excellence of the guides. The other reviewers said everything so well, I'll just add some helpful hints. You won't need much money in Bhutan (and you can use US dollars) but if you want to change money, the bank in Paro does not charge a commission rate if you exchange with a $50 or $100 bill. The only ATM we saw was in Thimpu and it was out of order. Bhutanese money cannot be exchanged outside the country. VISA is the only credit card accepted.
Kathmandu and Pokhara Nepal have ATMs everywhere. Pokhara has a lot of North Face and Columbia clothing for sale and they are very inexpensive. If you don't bring water sandals with you, you can buy TEVAs in Pokhara for a lot less than in the US.
The only negative note to the trip is the air routing for west coast and midwest. travelers. It's ridiculous to go to India via New York and Brussels, when there is a non-stop to India from Chicago and plenty of flights across the Pacific. Book your own flights and save a lot of money and even more importantly, a lot of time.

Traveler: Gina from Manhattan Beach, CA traveled on April 25, 2009

This is an excellent trip for the experienced traveler. Do be prepared for a wide variety of varying conditions (weather, geographic location, activity). As with any adventure tour, flexibility and a positive attitude are key. The OAT recommended packing list is a good start--I brought a variety of clothes, from t-shirts to a light sweater and rain poncho--and used them all. Long hiking pants (as opposed to shorts) are a must. Also, you will be hiking on well-used village paths--the rock paths are very well-worn and some of the paths are relatively steep, so make sure your hiking footgear has good treads--the paths could be very slick in wet conditions. As the other reviewers pointed out, this trip is best for individuals who lead an active lifestyle, especially for the hiking portion. The elephants at Chitwan are a delight, and the whitewater rafting portion was great fun--just enough minor rapids to make the experience enjoyable without death-defying. The camps are rustic but very comfortable (Sanctuary Lodge was my favorite), but there is limited-to-no electricity throughout the trip, and no heatAC in the outdoor lodges, so do be prepared. Bring an adequate supply of flashlightsreading lights or similar items. Mountain viewing is best in the OctNoc timeframe, but we were fortunate to have great weather that allowed mountain views, mostly in the morning, and they are stunning. I recommend the tour optional tours, especially the Mt Flight. Overall, this trip was an excellent experience--educational, active, and fun. Highly recommended.

Traveler: Susanne from Larkspur, CO traveled on May 01, 2009

This is my 5th trip with OAT, and it's one of my favorites. I will say that you need to be physically fit and agile. There is a lot of hiking over very rough terrain with narrow "paths".
Our guide in Bhutan, Tandin Dorje, was terrific in helping us see how beautiful his country is, on the inside as well as the physical. It truly is a magical kingdom. We hiked to the lookout point to see Tiger's Nest Monastery. I found this very difficult, due to the high altitude and steep climb, but it was well worth it. We were a small group of 4, and Tandin went out of his way to add interesting extras to our itinerary. We saw an archery competition, a dart competition, and passed the king on the road to Thimpu.
Nepal was also wonderful. Kathmandu had all the historical sites, and I enjoyed that, but the city was very dirty. Once we got out to the countryside, I really fell in love with Nepal. Our guide, Indra, exuded love for his country, and it was very catchy. He was open to all discussions, and was very knowledgeable.
The Himalayas are magnificent, and must be experienced. I was concerned about the hiking because it was so difficult for me in Bhutan, but not so here. The lower elevation didn't affect me, so it wasn't a problem. There was a lot of hiking over very tough terrain, but it was exhilerating. Indra and all the other day guides made everything as easy for us as possible.
The accomodations OAT chose were spectacular. Two nights were spent in a lodge nestled in the Annapurnas. We awoke (when the air was clear) to see the mountains...and to coffee. What could be better!
There were many highlights of this trip -- the flight to see Mt. Everest, the rafting trip, hiking, laughing, sweating, but my favorite is the time we spent with the villagers eating and dancing with them.
OAT has a knack of making every trip outstanding, and this was no exception. I highly recommend this trip for the adventurous traveler.

Traveler: Lynda from Brooklyn, NY traveled on April 18, 2009

We had a wonderful time on this trip! It really emphasizes the 'Adventure' part of OAT and is much more active than the other three trips (China, AmazonMachu PicchuGalapagos, CambodiaThailand) we have taken. Many typical cultural highlights were covered (old cities, temples, etc.) but we also had several days of hiking, rafting, and elephant riding.
Less than half of our group was fit enough for a brisk pace, although our trip leader made an effort (after discovering the discrepancy) to keep us more together on subsequent treks. Optional afternoon (and more challenging) hikes were provided for those who wanted them. We highly recommend being able not only to walk several hours at a time, but being able to negotiate serious hills. Two of the optional hikes included elevation gains of 1200 to 1500 feet --pretty much straight up. The effort was definitely worth it, but without proper conditioning, it would be the hike from 'heck'.
The rafting section was a hoot too. We went in January, during a low water period. There were lots of rapids and a few of them got us pretty wet. The wind shirt and pants provided were NOT waterproof. The only dry folks on our trip were those who had brought their own rain pants coat. We highly recommend this! A large dry bag is provided for your gear -- plan to pack your clothing for the rafting segment into your small green bag and secure that in the dry bag - it will simplify the transfers.
Our trip leader, Raj, was very knowledgeable and accommodating. We had many evening talks around various campfires about Nepali cultural and political topics. He also got us access to an amazing number of homes we came across on our treks and helped us see life from a Nepali point of view. The simplicity of the hill life there, lacking many things we take for granted (like running water at home and electric lighting), looked like it was a pretty happy place for the people we encountered.
Nepal is going through some challenging times. Our trip was completely safe, but electricity is not something you can count on: nationwide, it is provided only 8 hours a day on a rolling schedule. The hotel in Kathmandu was the only one that had the capability to provide 24 hr generators and 24 hr. hot water. Three of our lodgescamps depended primarily on solar energy for hot water and kerosene lamps or flashlights for the evening. Another one provided electricity only during limited hours of the evening. None of this was horrible, but it did require some planning. We brought headlamps, which were very useful. You also have to plan out where you will recharge camera batteries -- we recommend having at least one spare.
In January, the daily highs were in the mid-60's, but the foggy mornings meant it stayed cool longer than anticipated and the evenings (unheated lodging outside the cities) were pretty chilly. Hot water bottles were a welcome addition to the beds, but more long-sleeved shirts and another fleece jacket would have helped too. Gloves were useful.
Laundry is done free in two of the camps, but dries outside (on barbed wire in one camp), so avoid jeans, heavy cottons, and tender fabrics (a knit bamboo shirt got several snags).
Another challenging aspect is moving from one area of the country to another. The two-lane roads are busy with trucks, buses, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, bikes, cattle, tractors, walkers, you name it, all tootling horns and apparently delighting in the games of 'chicken'. This means the average speed you can count on is much slower than in the US. As a result, even short drives (80 miles) can take many hours and planes are used instead. However, in January, airports were routinely fogged in during the morning. The only flight (of four) that left on time was the trip back to Delhi at 3:45pm. Be prepared to hang out at regional airports (with few services) for a while.
Impromptu strikes also can wreak havoc with road travel. We encountered a bus strike on our way (late, due to the late plane) to our trekking trail head, and ended up walking past it as our trip leader made a quick trade with a van stopped on the other side. The van (probably designed for 10-12) was a TIGHT fit for the 15 of us (plus the 3 trek crew on the roof), but it got us there safely and contributed to the adventurous nature of the trip.
In many ways, this was our favorite OAT trip so far, largely because of the increased activity level and the focus on being outdoors instead of inside museums, temples, and tourist shops. It is not a trip for everyone, though, because of the fitness needed to fully enjoy all there is to do. It shows you that Nepal is more than snow-covered mountains and introduces you to several different hill tribes and their lives. You get a glimpse of life in the big city, but spend most of your time in the wide-open spaces, getting around on foot, like many of the people who live there. We loved it!

Traveler: Jim & Lynn from Mill Valley, CA traveled on January 16, 2009