Moroccan Sahara Odyssey
Published date:
04.17.09
This was our fifth trip with OAT, and we have to rank it as one of the best (right up there with Turkey). (On second thought, they’ve all been great, in different ways.)
Our superlatives start with our trip leader, Hicham, who is not only well-informed and adept at imparting his knowledge of his beautiful country to us, the outsiders, but who consistently displayed a great sense of humor and was good at working little extra touches into the scheduled itinerary. Of course, the fact that he is 6’4” tall was also helpful for keeping track of him in the medinas!
Briefly going over the high points of the trip:
We loved the two nights in the Sahara, although because of weather issues (high wind and blowing sand) we had to cancel the scheduled walk in the dunes on the morning we were leaving. Nonetheless, the hike in the dunes on the first full day was spectacular and really gave the sense of being, as Hicham described the location, “in the middle of nowhere.” Our disappointment was in not seeing a fennec fox (or a scorpion). Equally fascinating, though, was the visit to a Bedouin semi-permanent encampment, complete with camel-wool tent. We, who are so spoiled and used to our perhaps world-destroying life-style with its gadgets and conveniences, are always brought up short by seeing people still living in such an alien way, and this is why OAT trips are so valuable.
The High Atlas Mountains were also beyond what we had expected. While at times the scenery reminded us of Arizona or Colorado (particularly the latter when in sight of the snow-covered 13,000 foot peaks), the appearance at a bend of the road of a kasbah style mud-brick village, women (unfortunately) bent over beneath bundles of feed for their livestock, equally heavy-laden donkeys, all reminded us that we were in quite another place.
The school visits were touching as well as informative, particularly in the way they showed us how eager most of these kids were to learn (starting with three languages in elementary school) despite the unavailability of computers or even calculators.
The home visits, including dinner with a local family in Fes, the visit to the Bedouins, and several visits to other families and the home of an imam, were the types of OAT extras that make these trips so worthwhile.
While the madcap traffic of Marrakech was worse than we (who go into Manhattan regularly) are used to (several near misses with taxis and motorbikes), the old cities were always an eye (and sometimes nose-, as with the tanneries in Fez) ) opener. We always wondered how the vendors could possibly sell all the stuff they had. We would have liked one more day in the desert and one less in Marrakech, but we don’t plan the trips.
The hospitality of the people (as in Turkey) was always warm and seemingly genuine, and that also is something we are not really used to here, which says something about both cultures, I suppose.
The one disappointment was the camel ride. While we were probably about the youngest members of the group, so that our sentiments might not be met by everyone else, we would have liked a longer camel ride and one that was in a more off the beaten path location.
The food was always good to excellent, the green mint tea superb, and the evocative calls of the muezzins always served, to us, to help counter the negative view of Islamic culture that we get here, particularly as the Andalusian architecture serves as a reminder of the great flowering of culture and tolerance that existed in Spain and the Maghreb in the 15th Century.
While one of us (Peter) was learning Arabic for the trip, French was very helpful (and at times Spanish), and Berber would have been good to work on as well. Nonetheless, it was always gratifying to see how pleased local people would be to any attempt to use Arabic. Here, again, Hicham showed his quality. In addition to his Arabic language introduction (and practice), he gave us information about the Berber alphabet after seeing Peter's interest.
We really recommend this trip to anyone who wants a touch of the exotic and exposure to a truly different culture. Of course, the OAT perspective, including the cultural close-ups that are always part of their trips, gave additional insight that we would probably not otherwise have had.
Traveler: Carol and Peter from Oakland, NJ traveled
on March 19, 2009
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