Machu Picchu & the Galapagos Overview
Published date:
07.20.11
We returned have just returned from a wonderful whirlwind tour of Peru and Ecaudor with OAT's Machu Picchu and the Galapagos trip. Now that we have had time to do laundry and catch our breath, I have been thinking about our magical time there and would like to share some of my reflections and impressions.
I won't try to do a day-by-day list of activities--mainly because I suspect that every trip is a little bit different and you want to have your own surprises along the way. The trip leaders seem especially good at adapting the schedule to whatever is going on, and giving each trip a unique perspective.
You should know that my husband and I are in our early 70's. We are both retired school teachers--elementary for me and high school science for my husbnd. He had wanted to take this trip for a long time, and decided we weren't getting any younger (or richer). We are fairly fit--we walk and bike and do gardening, etc. But this trip was very strenuous. I'm glad we didn't wait any longer.
The trip really was like two very different adventures. First was the week enjoying sights and sounds and the culture of Peru with our wonderful guide Pavel. Then we flew off to meet Juan Carlos who whished us off to the Monserrat, our boat for the Galapagos cruise. Everyone in our group remarked on how we felt like we were "starting over" in Ecuador with a new burst of energy.
And we did need that burst of energy, because every single day of both weeks was filled with interesting things to see and do.
So first: Perus. Of course the centerpiece of that part of the trip is Machu Piccu. But there was so much more to see and learn about. We saw many other Inca ruins along the way, and Pavel was very good at giving us a feel for the history of the whoe Inca empire. At the same time we learned aboaut the present-day culture of Peru, of course.
The trip starts in Lima on the Pacific coast--a big, congested city evidently famous for its foggy, grey days. Our hotel was very close to the shore, and I thought the lovely park and mall area along the beach was the best part of the city. Nearly everyone in our group accepted Pavel's recommendation to have one of our "meals on our own" in a buffet restaurant there on the shore, with a folk-dancing show following the meal. A very nice evening and a good way to kick off our visit.
We also all decided to go on the optional excursion to a "shanty town" on the outskirts of town where we were moved by the struggles of young families to make a living in the big city. That optional tour also featured a visit to the ruins of an Inca sun temple on the shore. While we were there we were fortunate to watch a procession of colorfully dressed Peruvians making their way to the top of the sun pyramid where they conducted ceremonies to celebrate the Winter Solstice.
After two days in Lima we flew to Cuzco. I had prepared for the high altitude by taking medication, but I still felt a little headachey at first. And I quickly found that I couldn't walk fast without gasping for breath. My husband didn't have much of an appetite as long as he was in the mountains. I don't think anyone in our group had any real big problems. Others who have been there suggested drinking the coca tea, and I did. But Pavel advised against taking it in the evening because he said it would interfere with sleep.
I thought the bus ride into the Sacred Valley was a highlight. Coming down the mountain overlooking the valley below was really breathtaking. And I loved the rustic little Ecoandina Hotel where we stayed--although other reviewers were not happy with the rather basic accommodations. It was kind of chilly, but we slept well under the comforters in the rooms. And the big open lodge had fires going. The courtyard was filled with flowers and a little flowing stream. I thought it was charming.
And I even liked the Hanaqpacha Inn on the river at the foot of the mountain where Machu Picchu is located, even though we had to climb stairs to get to our tiny room, and there was no hot water at all!
I should add that all the other hotels on the tour were actually very nice, although you can't drink the water in any of them. (You shouldn't even brush your teeth with tap water.) Both guides saw to it that we always had plenty of bottled water.
More disconcerting, to me, was the fact that you can't flush toilet paper at all, anywhere!
Anyway, back to the Peru segment of the trip. The visits to local markets, the school, the home-hosted lunch--all were wonderful and interesting experiences. The train ride was crowded, but very scenic.
The trip is planned so you can spend an afternoon exploring Machu Picchu with your guide, and then go back early the next morning to explore more on your own or walk a two-mile segment of the Inca Trail up the the mountain pass called The Sun Gate. Nearly everyone in our group decided to hike the trail, including us. The views along the way were spectacular, but still I'm not sure I should have done it. It was hard work and I had to stop to catch my breath every few feet. Our local guide provided walking sticks, and they were very helpful.
As I said, the second half of the trip in Ecuador was like starting all over again with a new guide in a new country. Of course the biggest part of our time in Ecuador was on a little boat going from island to island in the Galapagos.
I loved the easy-beachy atmosphere on the boat. We all were instructed to shuck our sandy shoes each time we came aboard, and everyone just went barefoot all the time on the boat. The Monsarrat crew was friendly and very accommodating. The food was ample and good. And the days were very, very busy. Each day we explored a new island (sometimes two) plus snorkeling in one or two locations.
We got up early and went to bed early. Most days the boat was anchored during the day and moved from island to island during the night. I went from altitude meds to Bonine for motion sickness, and was never bothered by the boat rocking around. But I will have to report that two or three of our group got very sich during one particularly rough night.
Juan Carlos seemed to know everything--from animals to birds to fish to stars, in addition to history, culture and politics. He was a very patient snorkeling instructor for those of us who were novices, and everyone in our group got to see the colorful fish around the islands in their natural habitat. Many got to swim with sea lions, penquins (and even sharks!).
Which brings me to a suggestion I made on the evaluation forms to OAT: Bring two swimsuits! Sometimes we snorkeled twice a day, and pulling a wet swimsuit off and on is not fun.
Also, while I'm talking about packing choices: I wished I had not bothered with several semi-dressy tops, but had put in a couple more lightweight cardigans.
After the Galapagos portion of our visit in Ecuador I was afraid that our tour of Quito would be anticlimactic. But we spent a very interesting day seeing the city and going to the actual Equator and standing with a foot in each Hemisphere.
It was a terrific trip on so many levels. We had looked forward to doing it for years, as I said--and it didn't disappoint!
Traveler: Carroll Van Horn from Salem, WV traveled
on June 17, 2011
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