An Amazingly diverse experience
Published date:
02.20.12
Waiting for the Messiah...
A first time visit to Israel is an emotional and cultural potpourri.
Having visited dozens of countries with ancient archeological towns and kingdoms that preceded the Common Era (BC in the now politically incorrect term), ranging from 10,000 year old crude cave paintings in Spain, 8,000 year old mountaintop stone citadels in Greece, or Stonehenge like mounds in Ireland; all tributes in their own way to the engineering and artistic creativity and ingenuity understood by ancient peoples who I originally viewed in the same context as cavemen.
As my wife and I explored more recent "digs", of Tibetan, Chinese, Greek, Roman and
Mayan eras (one to two thousand years old), we saw ever more sophisticated construction, metropolitan layouts, fortifications, sacred worship sites, accurate
astronomical observatories, and acoustically correct theaters that have withstood more
than the ravages of time, which leave us with a viewpoint of civilizations that grew and
flourished at different times in different places.
This trip was different. Other sites were mostly singular, built at a relative fleeting
moment in time, and then defeated or abandoned. Often to lie undisturbed for centuries.
Israel is a contiguous stream of people's, kingdoms, faith and culture that stretches back
5700 years in a continuous ebb and flow more reminiscent of a great river than a single
historic site marker.
Exploring ancient caves that housed thousands of scrolls documenting a religion and
culture that started with 5700 years ago, using language and alphabet virtually
indistinguishable from that used in today's Jerusalem Post web edition is a jarring
reminder of the stability, continuity and structure that still molds and guides many
aspects of daily Jewish life.
Trudging through limestone tunnels that run for thousands of feet, used to bring
water from natural springs to provide essential life to the growing city of Jerusalem
above, while preventing attacking armies from winning a battle through the tactic of
thirst. These tunnels run practically under the Western, or Wailing Wall, all that is left of
a massive temple built by Jewish King Herod, operating peacefully but autonomously
under Roman rule decades before Christ arrived. The ancient walls and stones talked to
me on this trip in a most contemporary way.
We walked the ramparts of the Old City of Jerusalem, looking inward at buildings lining
the Via Delarosa, the path of the fourteen stations of the cross, walked by Christ 1,000
years after the city walls were first built, and used over millennia to protect the city from
many different sets of enemies. We looked out on a gleaming metropolis of 2 million,
that surrounds the tens of thousands of graves on the Mount of Olives, where the Messiah will one day appear, or re-appear, depending on your faith.
The view is marred by a 30 foot wall in the distance built recently to keep Palestinians from shooting and fire bombing Jews on their way to work or school. The ancient vendettas that are the crucible from which this nation is forged, often simmer over in this cauldron of conflicts.
I pressed a prayer into a thin crack of the massive 2,000 year old western wall that rose
up 9 stories above the original footings, (even after Roman soldiers lopped off 13 of its
height). Some stones weigh 20 tons. Their crushing weight keeps the wall in place
without mortar, threatened not by nature, but by acerbic politics that left 5 more dead
this week here, due to the near constant tug of war over these ancient stones and the
land they occupy.
The holy Moslem Dome of the Rock sits atop the wall, in what was a
2,000 year old stone plaza the size of 27 football fields. A heavily secured bridge
provides access for Moslems to the dome, while in the bridge's shadow, the Jewish
women's section swarms with multi generations of women seeking to pray at Judaism's
most revered place. Multi-religious sites here literally share the same stone foundation.
Yet for decades, Arabs prohibited Jews from approaching the wall, and last year, when
the stone access bridge to the Mosque started sinking in torrential mudslides, the Jews
were accused of sabotage. Childish? Of course. Reconcilable? Fat chance.
Fifty miles to the North, we stayed at a Kibbutz, hewed out of the Golan Heights Desert
since 1968 and now a community of 400 with a thriving dairy and vegetable farm, and a
manufacturing factory for water control valves. The common room has rubber gasketed
windows, and steel door is built to withstand a poison gas attack. Syrian mine fields
from the 1973 war are still a hazard and marked nearby with barbed wire fencing and
rusted Syrian bunkers. We watched a film about the 1973 war, where 1500 tanks
massed on all sides of Israel and attacked on the high holy day of Yom Kippur. Israel
was outgunned 10-15 to one. 800 Israelis died in 5 months; (equivalent to 50,000
Americans based on population). Fending off episodic attacks of enemies forsworn to
eliminate the State of Israel tends to make folks justifiably paranoid.
In Bethlehem, we saw caves that sheltered shepherds awed by a star in the East. In
Galilee, we stood on the stone where Jesus fed his growing congregation, and spent
time probing the timbers of a 2,000 year old boat that might have been used to cast
bread upon the waters, or as an escape raft when Jesus's gospels threatened the ruling
Priests of the day, in a church visited recently by Pope Benedict. Staying at our hotel,
and visiting the site on the same day, we're 150 Nigerian Catholics, on a pilgrimage
Paid for by their government, which sends thousands of Moslems to Mecca and an
equal number of Catholics to Israel. While they were here, sectarian bombings by
Moslem extremists killed members of their villages in Nigeria. And on it goes. An eye for
an eye, till all are blinded.
Fifty miles south of Jerusalem, we clambered over the windswept terrace mountain-top
fortress of Masada, built near the dead sea overlooking the mountains of Jordan, as
King Herod's winter palace and as a fallback citadel if Jerusalem was attacked, or he
should fall out of favor with the Romans. Although never used by Herod defensively, the
well stocked larder and cisterns allowed a band of 1,000 Jews that fled the Roman
legions of Caligula's time, in 70 CE (AD to those of us who grew up with the Christian
based archeological calendar), to hold off a siege by 10,000 Roman soldiers for three
years.
The Roman soldiers camps and fortification walls are still clearly visible, as are still
colorful mosaic tile baths in the mountaintop palace. The overwhelming sense of history
throughout this trip was once again drilled home as we easily imagined the scenario
unfolding in the dead sea hills and desolate desert around us. The sense of solidarity
among the defenders relying on their faith against eventual defeat was palpable in a
way that no other historical site has ever approached that level of feeling and awe.
The whistling wind on the Mesa topped hill wasn't the only sound we heard. Phantom
Jets cracked the sound barrier nearby as the Israeli Defense Force flew practice sorties
overhead while US General Dempsey, Chairman of the joint Chiefs of Staff met with
political and military leaders nearby to talk about ways to ensure stability and security in
the region.
The conversation must have been interesting. In a one day visit, he planned
to discuss:
Iran (still moving forward to become a nuclear power, while belligerently threatening the
Gulf oil flow, and constantly reminding Israel that it has no right to exist).
Egypt (under a peace treaty, but where 23 of the parliament has just been won by
Moslem or Moslem extremist held seats threatening the concept of a secular
government)
The Gaza Strip, (where 2 terrorists were killed while planting a bomb this week, and the
Hamas governor announced he's resigning so a less conciliatory man can take his
place).
Lebanon (where missiles are still launched against Israel periodically).
Syria, where President Hassad generated more headlines this week, as the government
crackdown continued. An uneasy truce has held since 1973, but the future of the
government, and a successors' willingness to maintain peace is unknown.
Turkey (where recently re-elected President Yip has been making overtures to Iran, as
parliament drives to a less secular and more Moslem law).
General Dempsey visited Yad-Vashem, the Holocost memorial, as did we. This
extensive campus was difficult and overwhelming to walk through, as the chronology of
Hitler's "Final Solution" killed six million Jews was explained, as if any such genocide
can be put into a comprehensible context. Nearly Half of the world's Jewish population
were gassed, starved or shot in 8 years.
It seems that the only constants of the Jewish people over the last 5,700 years is a clear
belief in One god, a fierce dedication to building for the future, and a history of being
attacked for that belief and drive.
The panoramic breadth and depth of the Jewish people, and the impact on the world's
other major religions from here, the epicenter of our Judeo-Christian civilization was
struck home in dozens of ways. It was truly a remarkable journey.
-Leib Lurie, Troy, OH
2012-January
Traveler: Leib Lurie from Troy, OH traveled
on January 06, 2012
Was this review helpful to you?
Yes
No