Wonderful ChinaTibet Experience
Published date:
12.13.11
We chose OAT for our China trip for a number of reasons:
1) We know a couple in our church who had been on the same trip a year or two earlier, and they had a very positive experience.
2) The trip went to Tibet, and if I was going to China, it had to include Tibet.
3) OAT included more meals than the others! and...
4) We liked the idea of OAT attempting to provide us a more authentic experience than just a travel group doing the typical rounds.
We were not disappointed. This was a wonderful trip, made particularly so by our outstanding trip leader, Mike Ma Xiao Jian, who was knowledgeable, had a great sense of humor, was very patient (and did a great job of shepherding us, usually from the rear, to make sure we didn't get lost), took detailed care of every aspect of the tour, and in general went beyond the norm to maximize our trip experience. Mike called our room soon after we arrived in *every* hotel we stayed in to ensure that things were OK.
Shanghai: We took the pre-trip to Shanghai because I had heard that Shanghai was a city to experience, and I was right. My wife didn't have a strong feeling one way or the other, but halfway through our visit to Shanghai she said she was really glad we'd chosen that pre-trip. Mike met us at the airport, and we had a good local guide, too.
Shanghai is a very vibrant city, and a very interesting one, with the Bund, and buildings and history dating back to colonial times. It has art deco buildings, and on the opposite side of the Huangpu River is the amazing new skyline, which didn't exist 10-15 years ago. We were told that Shanghai has over 5,000 building projects going on at any given time. Talk about a city on the move!
The hotel in Shanghai, the Bund Riverside Hotel, was pretty good. Despite its name, it really isn't terribly close to the Bund, but still it was within walking distance in an interesting area.
The Shanghai excursions were in general pretty good and worthwhile. In particular, we took a high speed train to Suzhou, a 2500-year old city. The train really moved, and Suzhou was interesting.
Beijing: We flew from Shanghai to Beijing, where we stayed at the Kang Ming Hotel. I would rate this hotel merely average, and while it was supposed to be conveniently located, we didn't find it very convenient if we wanted to go off by ourselves.
There is so much to see in Beijing: Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, a visit to the Beijing Opera School, followed by a (brief) experience at the Beijing Opera (the singing voices take some getting used to!).
Xi'an: We travelled to Xi'an from Beijing via an overnight train. While we appreciate the attempt on OAT's part to provide an authentic experience, our group universally felt that the overnight train ride wasn't worth it. We had a not very good night's sleep, and would have been much better off if we'd flown to Xi'an instead.
The hotel in Xi'an was the Xian Garden Hotel, probably the best hotel of the entire trip. It had beautiful grounds, a great location, lots of space, and good rooms and meals -- even a good gift shop!
The highlight in Xi'an was the Terracotta Warriors, which are pretty amazing. While you have probably heard about them, you have to experience them directly to see how large the site is. An amazing experience!
We also explored Xi'an's city wall. Unfortunately, because of the ever-present pollution, we couldn't really appreciate it fully, because we couldn't see very far.
It was in Xi'an where we experienced "A Day in the Life", by staying overnight in Hu Xian Donghan village. It was quite an experience! My wife and I and another couple were hosted by a family; the wifemother of the family had us "help" in the cooking, showing us how to produce the noodles and stir-frying various dishes. While there was a language barrier, I think we were able to share a good experience. The meals were very good, and in the evening we were taken to the local basketball court, where some of us danced the Macarena, and the Chicken Dance, among others, with the women of the village. That was a real highlight!
Chengdu: From Xi'an, we flew to Chengdu, where the main highlight was the Pandas at the Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. Another highlight was the Changing Faces Opera, an evening performance.
The Chengdu Furong Hotel was OK. It didn't seem to be near anything significant when my wife and I took a walk around. But the rooms and breakfasts were fine.
Lhasa: We flew from Chengdu to Lhasa. Lhasa was a great experience, despite the altitude issues (see below). It's an amazing place; we saw Buddhist temples with devoted Buddhists marching three times around the temples, and supplicating in front of them. We saw markets and the Potala Palace (the palace of the Dalai Lama). The people were very interesting, and had great character, not to mention costumes.
The Shangbala Hotel was pretty good. It had an excellent location (in addition, there was a very good coffee house steps away from the main entrance of the hotel - see below). We visited monasteries and temples: Buddhism is definitely a religion (as opposed to a philosphy) in Tibet!
A highlight was the climb up the 400 steps to the Potala Palace on the third day (we probably couldn't have managed it earlier because of altitude issues -- see below). The view of Lhasa from the top of the Potala Palace is spectacular!
Yangtze River Cruise: We flew from Lhasa to Chongqing, where we boarded the Victoria Cruises riverboat. By this time, we felt the need to take a break and relax for a few days on the Yangtze. The boat, which had been represented as being a 5-star experience, was somewhat less than that. However, it was still a good experience; the cabins were good, and (in particular) the staff on board (waiters, bartenders, stewards, housekeeping, cruise director) were all very good. The staff were responsible for the entertainment, and did an excellent job of that.
Unfortunately, the Yangtze cruise was also subject to pollution (see below), so we did not have the best of photographic experiences on the cruise. However, the excursion to the Daning River (the Three Little Gorges) was great! We managed a sunny day, and the scenery was spectacular.
One highlight was the Three Gorges Dam. Unfortunately, the 'fog' didn't allow us to see the entire dam, but the riverboat navigated the 5-stage ship lock by the side of the dam, and that was fascinating (albeit late at night). It takes about an hour per stage, so after experiencing one stage out of five, we went to bed!
The tour of the Three Gorges Dam later on was good, but the 'fog' didn't help.
YichangWuhan: We docked at Yichang, and then had a 5-hour bus ride to the city of Wuhan. Wuhan is yet another of the amazing cities of China; all of them have huge populations, and have major industries to boot.
The hotel in Wuhan was basically a way-station to allow us to sleep before heading on to Hong Kong. The Central International Hotel was certainly adequate, albeit not great.
Hong Kong: We flew out of Wuhan to Hong Kong the next day. Hong Kong, as you would probably expect, is the most Western of all the Chinese cities we experienced. Certainly, more people there speak English, although many do not.
The Charterhouse Hotel, Causeway Bay was a very conveniently situated hotel. In general, it was a very good choice for us. It had a great coffee machine for breakfast (see below), and allowed us to go off on many individual forays. The excursions (both included and optional) in Hong Kong were particularly enjoyable. Hong Kong is an amazing city, and we enjoyed it thoroughly.
We left Hong Kong from the new airport (in our case, bound for Vancouver, Canada -- OAT had arranged for us to fly Air Canada). It was a long flight back to LA (via Vancouver), but ultimately a good one. It would take us another day to get back to Boston, and ultimately to New Hampshire. And another 3 0r 3 weeks to adjust back to the timezone and recover (see below).
This was a wonderful trip, but one that wasn't an easy one.
Here are some things we learned that were not apparent from the OAT materials (which in general were very good):
1) As mentioned by a fellow traveller in another report on this page, we experienced a lot of pollution during our trip. It was referred to as 'fog', but really was smog, and pretty dense at that. Shanghai had some pollution, but we were lucky enough to have some sunny days there. Once we got to Beijing, it really set in; XI'an and Chengdu continued in the same vein. We saw some reports in the 'China Daily' newspaper and on TV news that Northern China was experiencing particularly severe conditions (they tended to avoid the term 'pollution'). We don't know whether this indicates whether we were there at particularly bad time (or not).
It was nice to arrive in Lhasa because it was relatively pollution-free. However, when we flew back from Lhasa to Chongqing, and boarded our Yangtze River cruise, the pollution"fog" returned, even during the cruise. We could not see more than halfway across the Three Gorges Dam because of the 'fog'.
It may be that the presence of this smog is dependent on time of year, but unfortunately I can't make any statements about that, because I only have experience of our trip (Oct 20 - Nov 14).
Most of our party suffered as a result of this pollution. We had coughs and sore throats, sinus problems and related issues. When we returned to the US, several of us were diagnosed with bronchitis and underwent antibiotic treatments.
So, if you go, be prepared. We saw many people wearing masks (even in Lhasa, which we didn't really understand). Wearing a mask might well help, and a couple of people in our party did that. We think that many people in China may wear masks because of the SARS epidemic of a few years ago. Take cough lozenges -- there are the regular Halls type, but then there are also those that contain benzocaine (Chroraseptic, Cepacol for example), which provide more of a throat inflammation relief. Our fellow traveller suggests some kind of antibiotic, but I am not sufficiently familiar with those to make recommendations. It's not easy to pick those up during the trip, so take them along.
2) This may be obvious, but still bears stating: Be prepared for gastro-intestinal issues. On the third day in Shanghai, I was up all night throwing up (sorry, there's no polite way to get it across effectively). Several others in our group had similar problems around the same time. We have our suspicions about where we might have eaten that might have caused the problem, but we can't really prove that. Besides, it's academic; when you make such a major change in diet and surroundings, such things are almost certain to occur. We had taken Immodium to alleviate the symptoms of (but not the causes of!) diarrhea, but never used it. We also took Cipro (Cipprofloxamine) to counter severe conditions, but never used it either. We should have brought something like Pepto Bismol, but didn't.
Don't misunderstand: While having some kind of a gastrointestinal problem is probably likely, it's probably not going to last, or be really serious. Mine subsided in a couple of days, and didn't impact my experience of the trip in any serious way.
2) Don't underestimate the effects of altitude sickness. On our arrival in Lhasa, Tibet (12,000ft), virtually all of us experienced some symptoms of altitude sickness: headaches, lethargy, lack of appetite. And these lasted for at least a couple of days. Even Mike, our tour guide, experienced symptoms (and apparently does every time he goes to Tibet). My wife and I, and several other members of our group, were prepared with prescriptions for Diamox (acetazolamide), which you're told to take 24 to 48 hours before you move to high altitude. We took these prescriptions; even so, my wife was laid low with a headache for a day, and a reduced appetite for a second day, but was well enough to climb the 400 steps of the Potala Palace on the third and last day of our visit. I experienced mostly a lack of energy, but otherwise was fine. Some among our group did not take their Diamox, and suffered as a result.
Again, don't get me wrong: I expected some altitude effects, and was willing to suffer them in order to see and experience Tibet. Lhasa was one of the highlights of the trip, so don't get the idea I regret going there in any way.
3) (This is a small one, and specific to my peccadillos.) I'm a coffee drinker. I consider instant coffee, or even regular American-style coffee to be something to avoid. I love real coffee (Starbucks French roast, for example). However, I can and do drink tea (after all, I did grow up in England). But I found pretty quickly on this trip that Chinese tea doesn't do much for me. We had it for just about every meal (green or black or both), and it was often only lukewarm and rarely really hot. (Incidentally, we found that the Chinese don't go in for cold drinks much.) Coffee wasn't available at most meals (except breakfast, and then it usually wasn't great). I began to pine after good coffee. I found a Starbucks in Shanghai, a really good coffee shop close to the hotel in Lhasa, and the hotel in Hong Kong had a great coffee machine at breakfast, but elsewhere it was pretty much a coffee wasteland. So, if, like me, you are likely to miss your good coffee, I recommend that you take a supply of coffee bags -- the kind that you can pour hot water over to make a reasonably good cup of coffee. The sachets of coffee available in the convenience stores (and Mike our tour guide had a supply, too) were just too much like instant coffee for my taste.
4) At the start of the trip, our tour leader Mike told us that he would ask us at the start of each week: "How do you like Chinese food?". He said at the start of the first week, the typical response was "Good!", at the start of the second week, it was somewhat more muted, and at the start of the third week it was "Where's the KFC?" (they are omni-present in China). While we never reached a desire to eat KFC food, we certainly felt that one can have too much of a good thing. Chinese food is good (albeit different from what we are used to at home -- they don't have fortune cookies; they are apparently a US invention), but by the end of the trip we were looking for a little more variety.
This was a wonderful trip. But if you decide to go on this trip, I hope these words of advice help!
Traveler: Bryan Higgs from Milford, NH traveled
on October 20, 2011
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