Heart of India (2012)

Stops much too long at the expense of lost time in historical sites.

Traveler: Santo Golando from Naples, FL traveled on January 24, 2012

It is hard to describe India as there is so much contrast. You have to go to experiece the colors, sounds and the sites. Be ready for a different culture, different foods and different ways of life. I met some wonderful Indian people who work so hard all day and little pay and yet they were kind, friendly and gentle people. It was exciting country to visit. and we did so many wonderful things from transportation, visiting historical sites to much more.
Our team leader Prahbu was exceptional He educated us about his India's cultures, rellgion, econmics, politics,cast system,historical sites,etc..He was organized and informative..
You need to visit India to experience it all and to have a true adventure have a native , Prahbu as your gudie.I'm planning a trip to South India with 3 others I met on this trip as it was so enjoyable to see The Heart of India

Traveler: Grace Brown from Westbrook, ME traveled on March 18, 2012

This was my 10th OATGCT trip but my first as a solo traveler. Let me say that OAT made it extremely easy to travel "alone" and the 15 other people on the tour quickly became new friends. As usual, OAT provided quality and value in an astounding trip.
Bhutan was everything I expected it to be and more. Tshering, our trip leader, had a passion for his country and culture and was excellent at explaining the philosophy as well as the religion of Buddhism. Our original flight from Kolkata was delayed by a day but Tshering managed to pack each of the remaining days so that we didn't miss anything on our original itinerary. The beauty of the scenery was second only to the beauty of the Bhutanese people themselves. The Tiger's Nest is a trek you don't want to miss - I rode a mule most of the way up to save my energy for the part I had to walk. Bhutan an extension that you don't want to miss.
As for the Heart of India, I now have a clue as to how Dorothy felt when she left Kansas and landed in OZ...complete sensory overload! The sights, the sounds, the smell of curry and naan, the brilliant saris, the unbelievable traffic that is a mix of cars, buses, rickshaws, tuk tuks, scooters,bicycles, cows, donkey and camel carts all mixed with thousands of pedestrians. Yet, in three weeks time,with the apparent absence of any traffic rules, I never saw a single accident. (The horns tooting seem to signal "I am here, please give way as I am coming thru.") The roads in the cities can be challenging while outside the cities as we traveled from Delhi to Jaipur, Jaipur to Ranthambore, on to Agra and eventually Khajuraho, the roads sometimes disappear into rutted dirt paths. But I wouldn't have missed it for anything! The time on the bus allowed us to absorb life in the countryside while Prabhu, our wonderful trip leader, used the time to share great insight into modern India and answer all of our questions.
Whether driving thru large cities, towns or small country villages, the one constant is rubble and trash. A brick wall crumbles, the bricks lay strewn about, seemingly forever. Chunks of concrete, roof tiles, stones, all manner of what we would consider rubble, much like what you might expect in a war zone is everywhere. Garbage is tossed into the street where cows, pigs and dogs dispose of anything edible. In open lots where mounds of trash accumulate, the pigs compete with the women (in their colorful saris) and the children (as often as not barefoot) as they search for anything salvageable. It might be considered destitute but it seems to make more of a serene statement of the will to live, even in dire circumstances.
But that is not all!! There are the beautiful temples, the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort, the astounding sculptures at Khajuraho, the Sikh temple and their kitchen where they feed 15,000 free meals a day. There are the unexpected discoveries like the ancient baolis at Abhaneri (you have to see it to believe it!), the "day in the life" experience and the beautiful women harvesting wheat by the side of the road. And there are the Indian people, friendly and curious about us just as we are about them.
Trying to describe incredible India to those who have not been there is like trying to explain color to a blind person or music to the deaf. You truly must experience it to understand it. Each and every day of this journey was packed with intense opportunity to learn about the country and culture. India bombards the senses on every possible level. It is a kalaidescope of colors, sounds, smells and emotions all crashing in on you. Incredibly breathtaking...overwhelmingly heartbreaking...that is India. I absolutely loved every minute of it and have already added "The Soul of India" to my bucket list!

Traveler: Sheryl Pate from Ft Myers, FL traveled on March 18, 2012

Way too much time sitting on a bus. Very little opportunity to explore on our own and a tour guide who provided no options with the little time we had.

Traveler: Barbara Herman from Olympia, WA traveled on January 23, 2012

Glad I saw South India. But OAT's organization of this part of the trip felt as if it had been tacked on as an afterthought and somewhat disorganized.

Traveler: Sharon Wynd from El Cerrito, CA traveled on January 08, 2012

India is an experience. The cacaphony of sounds; the melange of colors, the pungent spices, the crowds and the general craziness of traffic makes India a most exciting adventure.
Our guide in the North, Raj, was a most accommodating person who made it his business to keep us all healthy - this included being at the door of the bus everytime we returned with alcohol for our hands and then he ran the "small bus bazaar" with the local vendors.
I was so glad I added the extension to the South on to my main adventure. Kerala was like going to a different country. It was cleaner and less chaotic. The people and the animals were healthier looking and there were definitely less stray animals and yes it was warmer.

A couple of observations: I took my down sweater vest and needed it in Delhi, and Jaipur and Agra.
I had taken 100 in $1.00 US bills and used 90 of them for tips and very small purchases. They were readily accepted.

As soon as I catch my breathe, I will return to India.
.

Traveler: Carolyn Mahoney from Oakland, CA traveled on February 02, 2012

We had a great trip. We loved every part of it, Old Delhi, The Amber Fort, The Taj Mahal, Khajuraho, and Varanasi. The food was excellent, the hotel were great. We had a great group of travelers and got along very well, thanks to the great and excellent work done by our outstanding trip leader ANURAG SRIVASTAVA.

Traveler: Tamim & Patricia Kasrawi from Gleneden Beach, OR traveled on January 13, 2012

An adrenolin pumping, OAT adventure. The cultural insights, magnificent architecture, two tiger viewings and fabulous accommodations make this a top three OAT trips.

Traveler: Sharon Kvas from Truckee, CA traveled on February 11, 2012

OAT needs to reevaluate the trip to Khajuraho. The site is extremely important and a highlight. However, when one spends 3 hrs by train plus another 5 by bus over rutted roads, a 2 hr visit the following AM is hardly sufficient ...

Traveler: Barbara Dolan from Huntington, NY traveled on October 28, 2011

This trip has it all - beautiful architecture, colorful local culture, interesting wildlife at the national park and a warm and witty trip leader, Pushpendra Rathore.

With the January 8 departure, we were told that it could be cold, and it was chilly at times, though as a native Michigander, I was comfortable in a polartec, scarf and maybe a couple other layers at times. (For about 1 hour while waiting for a train I wished I'd brought gloves.)

The buses were roomy and comfortable, and some of the scenery along the way was amazing - including a wedding procession, camels pulling loads, a gypsy camp, and Jain pilgrims walking along the highway.

The people were very friendly, and English is spoken quite extensively in India. The folks at the home hosted dinner were very congenial and well-spoken. Probably the most memorable experiences were dancing with the mother-in-law during the wedding procession and trying to mimic the dance moves of an Omar Sharif lookalike at our OAT camp.

Although some folks had colds or upper respiratory infections, which might have been picked up on the plane ride or in the US prior to the trip, only a few of the group had any gastrointestinal sickness. We were all quite diligent about drinking only bottled water.

As mentioned before, I got a lot of use from my polartec and other layers. My bandana was very useful in combatting dusty roads, and a dust mask would've been even more useful.

The Amer and Agra forts were beautiful, and of couse the Taj is stunning. This trip was an excellent way to visit these attractions - and a lot more!

Traveler: Janet Murphy from Battle Creek, MI traveled on January 08, 2012

Many before me have covered the wonders of this trip, and I heartily agree – India with OAT is not to be missed. Here though are some tips which will be helpful to you:

--Wash your hands often. Also, bring Purell and use it often. These two things will go a long way to avoid Delhi Belly, which is caused more by unclean hands than the food.
--Bring and take Probiotics daily – will help avoid Delhi Belly.
--Bring a lot (at least 25) of dollar bills – use for tips.
--Bring surgical booties (you can get at a surgical supply store) – they are very easy to slip over your socks when you visit the temples. Store them in a shower cap which you can pick up at one of the hotels, and keep them with you at all times.
--Bring a small flashlight and take it with you whenever you go out at night. Oftentimes, the street lighting is not very good.
--Pack light and send your laundry out when you visit the Nahargarh Hotel in Ranthambhore (which, by the way, is an absolute delight). It’s the least expensive place to do this (by a long shot) – for example, pants are approximately 80 cents to launder.
--Bring a good set of earplugs (not the ones the airlines give you, which don’t work) – they will help you sleep if there is noise around the hotel.
--Bring an inexpensive sink stopper to fill your hotel sink with water for laundry and shaving – some hotels don’t have them.
--Leave your hair dryer home – we only had one hotel which didn’t provide it and borrowed one from the hotel.
--You can exchange your American money at the hotels at no charge (although you can’t change rupees back to American at the hotels). Get small bills if you can (100 rupee bills and, especially, 10 rupee bills – worth about 20 cents -- which you’ll need for bathroom tips).
--There are lots of ATMs in the larger cities, and even in some smaller towns, which are convenient to your hotel.
--Carry toilet tissue (which you can get from your hotel bathroom) at all times. Indian bathrooms often don’t provide this.
Bring Immodium or Pepto Bismal – just in case.
--Bring Ciprofloxacin (an antibiotic which you can get from your doctor) – it will help for Delhi Belly and unexpected things, and it will retain its effectiveness for years, so you’ll be able to bring it on future trips. My husband had an unexpected dental infection (not related to the trip) and was able to treat it.
--Bring insect repellant. We didn’t need it, but there may be times where it will be useful.
--You can negotiate price almost everywhere, even in the high end shopping stops.
--Don’t expect perfection – things happen! Keep an open mind, and you’ll have a great trip!

Traveler: Sharon Palmer from Boonton, NJ traveled on February 06, 2012

Oat has become really bad compared to even 2 years ago. Try gate1travel dot com before considering oat. Nowadays oat makes sure that you have the worst flight experience with the highest price they can squeeze out of you. We really suffered through the 28 hour flight to India. We had the same experience as the above mentioned company travelers and paid twice as much. We are so upset by their treatment that writing this review does not comfort us. We are inner circle members i.e we have traveled more than 8 times with this company and we do not think they care for our loyalty.

Traveler: Hammer from Santa Monica, CA traveled on December 16, 2011

PROS:
Climate: Chilly at times in the north, pleasantly warm in the south. Perfect for travel.

Group: A delightful group of people!

Hotels: More luxurious than I had anticipated. Even the tents were lovely al though the tigers seemed to be hiding.

Pacing: I felt it was necessary in order to see so much within the time frame.

Food: I never cared much for Indian food here in the U.S., but I loved it in India. I tried everything - breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Sights: It was a good overview. And I especially liked the visits to the villages, a school, and a women's coop.

Health: I popped a Pepto-Bismol every morning and felt fine throughout the trip. A couple of people had one bad day or so, but antibiotics did what they are supposed to do.

Reactions: I have lived and traveled extensively in the developing world, so the crowds, traffic, noise, litter, hawkers and poverty were no different from what I had expected to see.

Surprise: The south of India is very different from the north. Glad I saw the contrast.

By the way, the bus drivers were excellent, as were the local guides.

CONS:

Travel arrangements: I would never again accept OAT travel arrangements. When I saw that I would have a 7 hour layover in JFK after flying for nearly 20 hours, I immediately called OAT and got a weird story about why it was necessary. And a $15 check so I could eat in the airport. NY is a 4 hr. bus trip from Boston, and if I didn't have a suitcase I would have taken a bus into NYC and hopped another bus to Boston. Buses run from JFK to LaGuardia and there is a shuttle to Boston every hour.
That layover was not necessary and I would have paid a bit more to avoid it..

Hotels: As I mentioned before, most of our hotels were luxurious. BUT the hotels in Cochin and Bombay had probably been built as convention centers and were at least a half hour bus ride into the city, thereby eliminating the possibility of getting out and seeing more on our own. There was nothing around them.

Shopping and demonstrations: On every trip there seem to be one or two big shoppers who like the demonstrations of high-priced merchandise and buying it. But for those who are not big shoppers, it is a waste of time that could be spent in a more interesting way.

Transportation: We traveled two hours by train and 8 hours by bus to get to Kajuraho (fabulous!) and left by plane from the nearby airport. Couldn't we have arrived there the same way instead of wasting a day on the bus?

Home visit: The one in Cochin was lovely, interesting and informative. But the one in Jaipur for our group of 4 was a dud. Our host did not speak much English, his wife was seen only when she served the meal, we ate on an open rooftop that was covered by a tarp and freezing, and a boy of about 8 or 9 (from the village, we were told) seemed like a servant and served the beverages. Fortunately, the people who went to other homes had a very good experience.

Small quibbles: I don't go to New Delhi to try to cross a busy street at night in order to eat bad Chinese food.

We could have used more time in the National Museum in Delhi.

The choice of restaurant for the farewell dinner was was not up to previous standards set during the trip.

P.S. India is fascinating, an unforgettable experience!

Traveler: Gene Kupferschmid from Brookline, MA traveled on January 08, 2012

Returning from 2 India tours, north and south, plus 3 extra weeks on our own. India was much more than I had envisioned, you cannot do this country justice until you see,smell,touch sense and hear the essence of this beautiful land! I loved Delhi, so much to see, lots of contrasts and awesome street food. The Daulat Ki Chaat was a quest of mine before going to India, wonderful foamed sweet fresh milk with jaggery, nuts and silver foil sprinkles on top, like eating a cloud. Only made in winter this street food sold in Old Delhi near Kinari Bazaar. Every city we stopped was unique from the previous one. So much to learn and experience made more rewarding with our excellent guide Krish Sharma. His concern for the travellers comfort and happiness excelled from the start. He went the extra mile to have pamphlets printed up to give us useful information regarding India. Its hard to describe what I experienced, you have to go there yourself, I would definately go to India again as one of my favorite places. These OAT tours were my 3rd and 4th and I wouldn't travel with any one else. The tours are small allowing the group to do spontanious things when they come up if previous plan didn't work. All the group was wonderful, easy to get along with and ready to enjoy India as presented by Krish our fearless leader!

Traveler: Emma Worsham from Orange, CA traveled on December 06, 2011

I traveled with my mother (age 80) and sister in late October to November on a trip that included the Pushkar festival. We all had single rooms. Our tour guide was Ajay Dudi (he was excellent). I loved the trip and would like to return to India – I would even take this same trip again!

There are some caveats to the Heart of India trip and they include:

1. Heat
2. Uneven and difficult to navigate walking surfaces
3. Full and demanding schedule
4. Beggars and hawkers

Notes:

Heat
The temperature may have been in the 80s but it felt like it was in the 90s. Pushkar, in particular, was extremely hot. The hotels and motor coaches are air conditioned but walking in the heat with a bright sun can be difficult. A hat and lightweight, breathable clothes help.

Uneven pavement
You need to pay attention to where you are walking. Sturdy shoes are helpful. A flashlight is recommended for evening walks (we had two long night walks, to the restaurant in Delhi, and from the lake to the bus in Pushkar).

Full schedule
I got tired. There are many cities and lots of traveling between them. There are lots of early morning departures - some so that we could see the sights in good lighting, others so we could avoid heavy traffic. There is very little relaxation time on this trip.

Beggars
If I could, I would like to help every mother and child in the world. But, you can’t. And to my Western eye, a barefooted, unbathed, raggedly dressed child with a hand outstretched is very hard to ignore. The best solution for me was to put my sunglasses on and not engage. To give money to beggars would mean that tourists who come after me will also be asked for hand outs. Plus, by giving money, I feel that I am adding to the problem, not helping with a solution. However, I did give money to those that provided a service. For example, I gave 100 rupees to the little boy who danced his own special dance for us, and 100 rupees to the wheelchair-bound man with Elephantiasis who agreed to have his photo taken. One last note, if you want to help, you can make bread in the kitchen of the Sikh temple in Delhi – just ask the guide. You will sit at a low table and the Indian volunteer women toss a dough ball to you and show you how to press it into the right shape. This was fun!

Hawkers
Hawkers are everywhere, they know the bus, they know what Americans like to buy. If you are not interested in the item being sold, your best bet is to not say anything. To the vendors, a “no” or a “maybe” means “yes.” Sunglasses and closed mouth if you do not want to buy. I started out with, “no thank you, I am not interested” but then I would have a vendor following me the entire length of the walk. Don’t waste your time or theirs, ignore them. Buy only when you return to the bus not when you get off! Make sure you get the exact item you paid for and that it is not switched to something inferior. Some items are only sold in certain areas – don’t imagine you will see the item again because you may not. I like to buy it when I see it.

Overland Drives
Bumpy? Yes. But I really enjoyed the drives through the countryside. It helped me to understand the land. It gave me time to relax and reflect. And, it was really pretty. Our guide, Ajay, was more than willing to make unscheduled stops along the way at places that interested our group. For example, some of the stops we made were to see and photograph; marble cutting, a Persian waterwheel, brick making, buffalo milk making, monkeys, goats, and camel carts. We also made a special stop to cut twigs from the Neem tree. Ajay then gave a demonstration on how to make the twigs into toothbrushes and we all brushed our teeth in this Indian fashion! While traveling on the bus, Ajay told us about Indian life and shared various Indian snacks and specialties.

Pushkar Camel Festival
A highlight of the trip and one of the most fantastic experiences ever! We walked over acres on a sloping hillside among tents and thousands of camels. Other experiences incuded, seeing white wedding horses, riding in a camel cart, taking a hot air balloon ride at sunrise, making an offering at the sacred Pushkar Lake, and observing authentic Sadhus in town.

Pushkar Tent Camp
These tents are very civilized. If you are concerned about insects, there aren’t any. Each tent has two twin beds and a standing, oscillating fan. There is an attached bathroom on a raised wood floor. The shower is sit-down style on a plastic stool. There is hot water. It cools down at night and a hot water bottle is placed in the bed while you are at dinner. The only downside to the tent accommodation is there is no refrigeration (I think accommodations can be made if you need to refrigerate medicine). I got very hot and asked for a chunk of ice from the kitchen ice chests to put on my forehead. The dining tent at the camp has a beautiful draped ceiling and the food was good.

What to Wear
I took khaki cropped cotton pants and lightweight cotton voile long-sleeved tunic tops. For shoes, I wore leather Topsiders, tennis shoes, and ballet flats (no one seemed concerned that they were leather). The more pockets you have on your clothing the better because you want to have your hands free when you are walking in town. Most in our group wore microfiber cargo pants – these are very practical. My concern was getting too hot if I wore socks and tennis shoes so I preferred to wear shoes that didn’t require socks. You could wear sandals in the hotels. I took a lightweight sweater and didn’t need it. I did use a windbreaker on the tiger safari. A scarf is a must – can be used to keep dust out of your face and used in temples. Take temple socks. Lightweight sunscreen shirts are a good choice.

Mosquitoes
We had mosquitoes. Take DEET lotion. Stay covered.

Food
I like spicy and I like curry. I thought I liked Indian food but I don’t … not after spending two weeks there. The dishes tended to be heavy with a layer of oil on top (at least the Paneer was like this). There were some standout good dishes like the fish at the Jaipur hotel and the lemon cilantro soup at a few places. The best part of the Indian meal is the Naan bread – most times it was fresh out of the oven. Regarding fruit, I relied on our guide for advice on whether it was “safe” to eat.

Ice
I drank a diet Coke over ice at every hotel (after asking Ajay first) except in Pushkar.

Illness
We followed the advice of our guide. Most did not get ill. My mother ate the cookies that were set out in her room at Khajuraho and was very ill for 12 hours. Take Pepto-Bismol. One couple took a Pepto-Bismol pill each day and thought it saved them from ever being ill.

Luggage Lock
Most hotel rooms had safes but if there wasn’t one, I kept everything locked in my suitcase. No one on our trip had anything stolen.

Shopping
At the Ranthambore hotel, you can have clothes made to order. It works best if you have an article of clothing to use as a pattern. For example, I took a silk robe and had that reproduced. There were about 30 silks from which to choose but it wasn’t as inexpensive as I would have imagined. I think I paid about $60 per robe. You need to negotiate.

Books
I recommend the historical fiction about the Mughal empire and the empress Mehrunnisa by Indu Sundaresan.

Traveler: Linda Chaussee from Rancho Palos Verdes, CA traveled on October 27, 2011

"Heart of India" is a great adventure. Our tour guide, Sujay Lall, was outstanding in every way, he introduced our group to the sights, sounds, culture and splendour of India. We experienced the cities, culture, treasures, rural areas, schools, crafts, and family life of this amazing country. Our accomodations and meals were beyond expectation. We have traveled a great deal, and this trip rates #l. Highly recommended!

Martha & Pat Tooley

Traveler: Patrick Tooley from Port Charlotte, FL traveled on December 17, 2011

My third trip with OAT was the Heart of India. I have wanted to go to India for years.

I went several days early to adjust the time change and see more sights of Delhi on a private tour. Good decision as I was rested when we started our journey.

I loved the "colors" of all of the women across the country in the fields and on the streets.

Our tour guide Krishan was fantastic and provided additional material for us to read on the trip about the country, its people and customs.

My only disappointment was not seeing a tiger in the Ranthambore National park.

By chance I was invited to a wedding in Jaipur and a hotel tour of the kitchens etc. in Agra.

I highly recommend this trip. India is a historical and very diverse Country. Enjoy

Traveler: Marilyn Skinner from Huntington Beach, CA traveled on December 06, 2011

This was our first trip with OAT. We have travelled extensively with other groups and were skeptical as to what we could expect for the reasonable price of the tour, even though OAT and this tour were highly recommended to us. Our expectations were wildly exceeded.
Our tour leader, Sujay Lall, was the finest we have ever experienced, both for his knowledge, his willingness to satisfy all requests, his friendliness, and his open discussion of often sensitive subjects about his homeland.
The hotels and meals were all first rate.
We particularly enjoyed the emphasis on interacting with local people and seeing how they live, rather than only visiting monuments and museums.
Because of the weather in December, we experienced some airline delays and cancellations. Out tour leader and OAT Delhi were quickly able to make alternate arrangements for us, including flights and hotels, so that we had minimum inconvenience and didn't miss anything important. On top of that, and not expected at all, OAT provided us with a substantial refund and gave us a substantial credit toward a future trip. We were even reimbursed for tips we incurred as a result of the delays. Very classy.
Our only negatives were the airline routing, which was inconvenient from the West Coast (although in 2012 you can now make alternate airline routing), and, we felt, too much time at shopping destinations for the entire group, when only a few were serious shoppers.
We highly recommend this tour, although it is not for the faint of heart, and will definitely travel with OAT again in the future.

Traveler: Alan Krubiner from Santa Rosa, CA traveled on December 17, 2011

The first question friends and relatives often ask about our OAT Heart of India trip is, "is India really as dirty as they say?" That's the negative image most people have about this country they know little about. Sure, by our standards in the United States, it is not clean. In fact, we were amazed at how unsanitary some places appear. But, Americans should not impose their stereotypes denigrating the way others live. India is a lot more. It is vibrant, hectic, crowded, and chaotic to say the least. I lost count of how many times I kept saying the word: "unbelievable" during our 17 day learning and discovery experience.

Of all the countries we toured in the last 30 years, India stands out unlike any other. Nowhere else have we seen whole families - mother, father and children - riding on a motorcycle without helmets in hellish traffic. Or watch large cows crouched down on a median strip of a crowded highway to enjoy the breeze as cars, trucks and busses zip by. We saw complete gypsy families on the side of a road next to all of their possessions selling hand-made crafts or vegetables. Around the next corner you may see camels pulling a load of hay or working elephants with its trunk wrapped around a stack of wooden logs.

Our experiences included riding a jugaad - an improvised type of "truck" powered by an agricultural water pump engine. Where else could you see a thousand year-old stepwell where locals walked down 13 stories on narrow steps without guard rails to fetch life-saving water? Only in India could you see 14 dead people being simultaneously cremated on funeral pyres observed from a small rowboat on the Ganges River. The word "unbelievable" seemed appropriate when describing a monument in Khajuraho in which hundreds of “x-rated” carvings of sexual acts are on display for all to see.

Other tourists have described the long bumpy bus rides on roads beyond repair; heart stopping rickshaw rides surrounded by motor vehicles navigating roundabouts in Varanasi; riding an ornery camel; and going through a security check at the Taj Mahal more thorough than at any American airport. India is a cacophony of sounds where honking of horns is expected, requested and necessary. It is a country where seeing men relieving themselves on a busy public street is a normal and acceptable occurrence.

Most of the experiences a tourist encounters depend upon the tour guide assigned to lead their group. Some leaders are concerned about sticking exactly to the agenda regardless of the needs of those for whom he or she is responsible. On our tour, we were fortunate to have Karni Singh as our group leader. Karni showed us everything on the agenda and more. For example, one afternoon designated as "your own time," Karni asked if we would like to see a hit movie in a local theater. Watching Desi Boyz among a theater filled with locals was another one-of-a-kind experience. They cheer, eat, and talk during the movie. In the United States, an usher would escort them out for being too disruptive. But not in India as they watch and enjoy their Bollywood films.

At the end of the 17th day "learning and experiencing" period, we flew to Cochin in the south of India for a "vacation." The south is very different from the north of India. The pace is more relaxed, the language is different as is the food. We spent 2 days and nights on a 70 foot long, 15 foot wide houseboat made of bamboo poles, coconut fibers and ropes. The boat cruised along the backwaters of Kerala close to the shore where there are rice paddies, water buffalos, quaint shacks and families bathing in the water. Another few days of this would have been great, but you take what you get.

We are not shoppers, but the craft demonstrations are other learning opportunities. There were demonstrations of silk carpet making, marble stone carving, jewelry making, and more. Our only complaint was the large number of these events and the excessive amount of time spent there for those who shop. Of course, you can easily leave the shop and walk around as we did at times.

If you can handle sensory overload, long walks, smog, crowds and noise, India is a place to visit. It’s been said that you cannot be considered a seasoned traveler until you visit India. Having had that experience, we concur 100%.

Cynthia and Harvey Gersin
West Bloomfield, Michigan

Traveler: Cynthia and Harvey Gersin from West Bloomfield, MI traveled on December 04, 2011

We just returned last Sunday from the most incredible trip (you don't "go to India" you EXPERIENCE it) and OAT made that happen! As our 10th trip came to a close, all were very sad to have it end. The vibrant colors of women in saris, the cows, camels, monkeys, trucks, tuk-tuks, bikes, pedicabs, and everything else on the roads were an amazing highlight. We visited a Sikh temple where thousands of people are fed for free every day which had a deep impact on all of us. The architecture is beautiful, including the beautiful Jaypee Palace where we stayed. Everything about this trip from start to finish was wonderful. And, of course, our fantastic, Pushpendra Rathore, who made sure all went smoothly and who was always helping us find what we wanted to find, went over and beyond the duty of a Trip Leader. Kudos to him for an outstanding job! And, I must also mention his wealth of knowledge on Mother India, answering every question we had. Thanks again Push!

Traveler: Rhonda Kutler from Passaic, NJ traveled on December 23, 2011

We took this trip in December 2011 as first time Oat travellers and loved it. We had a wonderful trip leader, Sanjay Sethi who brought India to life for us. He was extremely knowledgeable and well spoken. We liked that it was a small group (15) and the 'day in the life' and host family dinner were wonderful experiences that we would not have encountered with another agency. This is not a trip for those who are unable to walk long distances. It is very active and exciting. We strongly recommend it.

Traveler: Joy from King Of Prussia, PA traveled on November 30, 2011

India is not for the 'faint of heart'. There is a great deal of trash by the roadsides with cows, pigs, dogs, goats and sometimes people rummaging through it. I never did see a sanitation truck, although l was led to believe that trash pick-up was done. There was considerable smog and it seems as if a blanket of dust lay over everything. That being said, l enjoyed my trip. I travelled with a good group of people and Vishal, our tour leader was great and took really good care of us. The hotels were very nice and l loved the use of marble... floors, staircases, banisters....fabulous!.
I saw a Tiger at Ranthambhore, how great was that, and the hotel there,Nahargarth Hotel, was out of this world.
The Taj Mahal is a lovely as the photos you see of it.
Varanasi was a bit of a disappointment in that it is very dirty. There again l enjoyed seeing the activities on and by the Ganges.
My travel arrangements were fine...the train in India on time and not as bad as l had envisioned. The only flight delay was from Kathmandu to Delhi on the return journey.
Yes! some of the roads are very bad but this is all part of the adventure. What can be said of the traffic...l'm just glad l wasn't doing the driving. Our driver was great!
l love Indian food so l was in heaven. l did not get sick but l recommend that travellers be very pro-active about their health. l went as far as to take 50 disposable, prefilled toothbrushes and of course some Cipro. l also took a collapsible walking cane and found it very useful. Most of the temples have no handrails.
Nepal was very much like India, and in some ways like Tibet(yes! l have been to Tibet). I took the flight to see Everest(albeit from a distance) and was fortunate to have good weather..there was only a very slight delay in out flight time. Our tour guide in Nepal(Singab???spelling)was also very good.
The people in India and Nepal were very welcoming and anxious to please. l never felt uncomfortable.
India was on my 'bucket list' and l am very glad l went. l got from this trip to India and Nepal everything l personally wanted. If you go l wish the same for you.
Jacquie

Traveler: Jacqueline Frazier from Carmel, CA traveled on November 28, 2011

My wife and I returned from this trip Nov. 21, 2011. We have traveled extensively so we do have many tripscountries to compare this trip to. India Air from JFK to Delhi was fine with one exception - the food from Delhi back to JFK was terrible. India is a country in major transistion with many challenges. The pace of the trip is demanding with lots of bus travels. Many of the roads were extremely rough. We had a great guide, Sanjay.

The people in India were very respectfull to us and we never felt in any danger in any of the situations we experienced. I have never been ill on any trips, however, on day 4 in India, the stomach bug got me so I missed one day of touring. We brought ciprofloxacin which many in our group needed too, so within a few days I was mostly recovered. My wife who usually gets ill on some trips, was a great traveler and never got ill on this trip.

We saw no tigers in Ranthambore, we did see fresh tracks and groups before us and following us did see tigers. We did see lots of wildlife and birds on our two trips into the park. The ride in the park was the roughest ride in a vehicle we have ever experienced. Hotels and food all along the trip were fine. The OAT Village Camp was fine and the camel ride was great. The Taj Mahal was one of the high lights, read "Under a Marbeled Sky" before you go so you can appreciate what you see.

Varnasis and the Ganges river is something you can only believe once you experience the Hindu rituals. The richsaw night ride to and from the Ganges will never be foregotten - a night of seeing and believing. You need to be in good shape to make this adventure, we enjoyed it.

Traveler: Charles Mcconnell from Erie, CO traveled on November 05, 2011

Indian culture is absolutely fascinating. Everywhere we went the children welcomed us with beaming smiles.

More than the palaces and temples I was most impressed by the introduction to village life and how ordinary people live. The rickshaw rides were also memorable, being quintessentially Indian.

Visiting Varanasi, the holiest city in Hindu India and the Ganges, the most sacred body of water was very moving.

I would have preferred to spend more time in local markets and bazaars than in palaces and temples.

I also thought there was too much flying at the end of the trip immediately preceding a 15 hour flight back to the USA.

Traveler: Christine Ho from Aventura, FL traveled on November 08, 2011

Our big trip this year, other than the usual ones to visit our kids and grandkids in Alaska and Arizona, was a journey to India.

Although we are not so big on Group Tours, we decided that India might be better visited with a Tour Company. We picked one where we would not be traveling with more than 16 people. We must admit that just paying your money and not having to worry about organizing anything is a huge advantage.
We flew from and back to San Francisco and visited: Old and New Delhi, Jaipur, Ranthambore, a Village Camp, Agra, Khajuraho, Varanasi and Gurgaon.

The area we visited has no great scenery or natural beauty. We knew that this would not be a scenic tour, but a discover India tour. We were intrigued by the country for a long time and with its recent impact on the world’s economic map, it seemed a good time to see what India was all about.

Our highlights:
• The friendly Indian people.
• The beautiful and very old temples.
• The sight of a tiger in the wild at the Ranthambore tiger park. We were kind of prepared that we might not see one as the park of 350 square kilometers is managed to hold 35 tigers only. But we lucked out. She was right on the road and around our jeep for at least 20 minutes, just ignoring us.
• The funerals, burials and burning of the bodies at Varanasi seen from a boat on the Ganges. We did this at night.
• The nice hotels we were staying in, two of which were absolutely world class. .
• The diner we had in a private house with 4 people. Our host was an up and coming Bollywood film director. Very entertaining
• The snake charmers village. Snake charmers are “untouchables”. The caste system is still very strong in India. The snake charmers are like gypsies and move from one area to the next. They build a mud hut village, do their thing in the surrounding villages and move on when all the villages in the vicinity have seen their act. Then they erase the old village and movebuild the next one. This again was the real India
• The visit to a real out of the way village that OAT has adopted. It’s totally off the beaten path. Tea was served that afternoon at a farmers’ house at the outskirts of that village. Later that afternoon we went to OAT's luxurious tent camp at the outskirts of another village. We visited that village on a camel.
• The colorful markets where the middle class Indians shop.
• The very knowledgeable tour guide we had.

The big disappointment:
• The Taj Mahal. When we were there the fog and smog were so bad that we had to get closer than 100 yards before we could see the Taj.

General impressions:
• A chaotic mob scene in every city or village. When you are in a town on a two lane street you have at least 8 lanes of traffic squeezed in the limited real estate. That is: buses, lorries, cars, motor bikes, bikes, wooden carts with people andor camels andor horses andor donkeys pulling them, pedestrians, tuk-tuks and rickshaws.
• The worst smog we have ever experienced in our lives in every big city.
• The total disregard for all traffic rules. People happily travel against traffic on 4 lanes, divided highways. Red lights are there to be ignored; Zebras on the pavement are for decoration only. The biggest vehicle has always priority. Fortunately, that was us most of the time, being in a bus.
• The poor state of the Indian railway stations. We traveled a short distance by train from Agra to Jahnsi. Unfortunately the train was 4!! hours late, so we did hang around the station for that time. The stench and filthiness of that station (and remember Agra is where the Taj Mahal is) was terrible. Why the stench? Let me not go into detail what was deposited between the rail tracks.
• We never felt unsafe. We often walked in a town or market, just by ourselves and never were bothered.

All in all, it was a very good experience.
We found our trip very good value for the money. And once more, not having to worry about anything was great.

Traveler: Peter Bosse from Roseville, CA traveled on November 11, 2011

This trip is for the seasoned traveler and someone who has been to third world countries before. It is a tough trip and includes not only famous and beautiful sights but some of the poorest, dirtiest and smoggiest places on the face of the earth. If someone here at home in the States were to ask us how we liked the trip our first response is "interesting". India was chaotic, hectic and diverse -- not at all a relaxing time. We feel OAT put together a good India tour for the money and experience.
We enjoyed meeting the people of India but the home visit was not really a true representation of the people of India. It was a visit to a very wealthy family's home. The guides were good, knowledgeable, open, helpful. Too much time is spent in "factory visits" which really are captive marketing trips. Give us something else to do while others shop. Rathambore was fantastic (probably because we watched a tiger for 30 minutes). There is no "adventure" in the classic sense on this trip - although there are many hours in busses, there was little other option for internal travel.
Our biggest disappointment was the total waste of a full day - our last one -- in Nepal. We did nothing, saw nothing and would have liked to have seen or done something ... even just shop around the durbar square in Kathmandu. We spent five hours at our hotel (nice but far out of town), three waiting for a plane and hassling our baggage and the rest arriving in Delhi, taking public transport halfway to our the hotel in Gorgaon (an not near anything but office towers). We were tired and hungry. In fact, we were "shorted" a day on the front end and lost a full day on the back end of the Nepal extension - it should be marketed as a 3-day trip. That said, the Everest flight was amazing and the Kathmandu Valley, while poor, nowhere near as difficult as much of India. We loved Nepal but feel the trip is way oversold as 5 days. It is 3.

Traveler: Marjorie Harler from Strongsville, OH traveled on November 11, 2011

India is ultimately diverse. The trip has many of those diversities, including culture,food,customs, and geography.
It is a very vigorous, and sometimes overwhelming, trip. Travel is tough and long, some of the reality of India is worrisome to us. New sights, smells, and tastes; different from anywhere else in the world.
Do not miss Bhutan!

Traveler: Charles Nichols from Huntington Beach, CA traveled on March 11, 2011

OAT put together an incredibly diverse sample of northern, central India, much more than promised in the online description. The trip was a good balance of historic sights, village life, cities, countryside and Hindu ceremonies and temples. We scheduled our trip to include the Pushkar Festival which is a fascinating event with traditional dance, animals, and Hindu celebration. That festival exposes one to a variety of people not seen elsewhere. We strongly recommend timing your trip with Pushkar.

Our guide Prashant was fabulous. His talks on the bus were like a college course on everything Indian from early civilization, Hinduism, nationalism, to present culture and sociology. Compared to other guides we have had on tours, he was honest and open about the good and bad of India.

The hotel accommodations were all very, very good. A couple were superior. Our tent camp in Pushkar was charming and comfortable. The only complaint about hotels was most were located at the margin of the cities, making it difficult to reach central, historic, & shopping areas on your own. We understand this is inevitable in India where quality accommodations in central locations are essentially unavailable unless you stay in luxury, boutique hotels.

The tour kept us busy all day, starting early in the morning. We never had more than a couple hours of unscheduled time. Thus, time to explore on your own, especially to meander around bazaars was very limited. One day we skipped a monument tour in order to explore Jaipur on our own. Actually, this isn’t a complaint, because the alternative would have been to do and see less. Except for that one instance, there wasn’t anything we wanted to miss.
India is a fascinating, exotic country.

One standout was the home hosted meal. We spent the evening with an extended, professional and educated family who like almost all in India, came together in arranged marriages. A practice so alien from our culture was fascinating to learn in person, not to forget viewing their wedding album which covered the 7 day event.

Generally, the people are very friendly. This our first time travelling when the people actually wanted you to take their photo. Moreover, if they had a camera, they wanted a photo with you. The taller and blonder you are, the better. Consequently, it’s a photographer’s dreams for people shots, not to mention the fabulous colors of the people, markets, etc.

Food, of course, is terrific, though we were surprised that half of our fellow travelers wouldn’t eat anything spicy – hey, this is India, food is a reason to be there.

Finally, be warned, India is not for the faint of heart. It took us a few days to adjust to the adversity of air pollution and filth along the roadways. Government regulation is ponderous: Something as simple as buying a SIM card for our cell phone proved too much trouble. The carpet we bought took 5 days to ship door to door, but three weeks for it to go through Indian customs regulations before shipping.

Traveler: James and Julie Rosen from Sonoma, CA traveled on October 27, 2011

There was no adventure in this trip!!!! I loved the Indian people but seeing most of India through a bus window was a real disappointment , especially with the group we had to travel with, never saw such a miserable nasty group of people!!!! We saw all sorts of wondrous things but didn't stay anywhere long enough to take it all in, seemed that the "bus" trip was planned around mealtime, and heaven help us if we were late for a meal. I am going to Africa with OAT and if we do the Serengeti in an air-conditioned bus I'm walking home.

Traveler: Patricia Vaughn from Berwick, PA traveled on November 03, 2011

India is an adventure, but only for the experienced and understanding traveler. My title for this adventure will be "India-Beauty Lost: the Effects of Population, Poverty, and Pollution".

There is potential beauty everywhere, such as the Taj Mahal, the most beautiful building in the world, other architectural wonders, the friendly and always welcoming people, and the myriad ways to travel-hot air balloon, rickshaw, bus, train, airplane, and jugad (you have to try it to believe it).

However, much of this is obscured by the overwhelming masses of people, the beggars, the non-stop vendors, and the garbage and air pollution almost everywhere.

Yet, the exposure to the Indian people - on the streets, at home hosted meals, and schools visits - is a valuable part of the adventure. At every contact, the people were happy, smiling, and waiting for you to take their photo. And almost as often, ask some of us Caucasians to be a part of their own family photograph. The ritual required us to take their photo and then show how they looked on the camera's digital screen. It always elicited grins of approval. The most memorable example was, at the touch-down of our hot air balloon in a vacant farm field, two young men requesting I take a photo of their 95 year old grandfather. When the grandfather saw his picture on the screen, his large smile made the whole trip worthwhile.

The Nepal extension was uniquely different - many people in Kathmandu, poor-but little poverty and no beggars. The walks through small villages gave us direct contact with real life in Nepal. The Nepalese were also very friendly, smiling, and wanted their picture taken; again, the ritual was the same.

There was a feeling of awe when we flew along the Himalayas and saw Mt. Everest - the top of the world. And our OAT guide gave us an unexpected extra - a visit with a young Nepalese lady who had climbed Everest three times!

Only 0.5% of international travelers visit India, and, I believe, this reflects the uniqueness of it all. If you are a seasoned traveler and want a unique experience - visit India and Nepal.

PS - When we were in India, the 7 billionth person of world population was born - in India.

Traveler: Thomas Segar from Minneapolis, MN traveled on October 21, 2011

The heat affected our experience. We live in AZ & the heat in April is no problem, but India was much hotter in April. Because it was unseasonably hot it caused a negative experience. Perhaps not having tours that time of year would prevent this situation.

Traveler: Barbara Cawthorne from Scottsdale, AZ traveled on April 20, 2011

A most wonderful, interesting trip. I highly recommend it. Our trip leader, Sanjay Sethi, was funny, informative and highly attentive to our needs.

Traveler: Carol Kaplan from Englewood, NJ traveled on January 01, 2011

My Trip to Bhutan and India
August 19th - September 12th 2011

The author, James Hilton, never visited the kingdom of Bhutan, yet he used it as a setting for his novel, Lost Horizon, published in 1933. In the book, he describes Shangri-La, a place where destinies are discovered and the meaning of paradise is unveiled.

A movie based on the book was made in 1937 by Frank Capra. It starred Ronald Colman, Jane Wyatt and John Howard among others. I watched it as a teenager in the late 1950's on television, and then went to the library to borrow the text.

I guess I always must have wondered if Shangri-La really existed and so when I was arranging my trip to India, I was delighted to see that a pre-trip to Bhutan was available. I was not disappointed.

Today, Bhutan remains a kingdom. Their present king is the great great grandson of the original king and will get married in October of this year, 2011, to a Bhutanese girl.

Bhutan is unique with it’s reasonable rules and regulations. For example, instead of a gross national product, they have a gross national happiness. Smoking is not permitted. In fact, it’s against the law. Business people must wear the national costume at work and when they are out in public. The king must marry a Bhutanese citizen. And as a rule, the king declines special treatment and privileges associated with money, instead he directs the financial resources for the benefit of the general public. It was very refreshing to find a leader so in love with his country and concerned with his people.

We visited many museums, monasteries, and dzongs (forts) while in Bhutan. We ate delicious food including red rice and chilies with cheese and potatoes. We walked thru vegetable markets, which featured food items unknown to us. With our guide’s help, I bought a bag of 27 passion fruit, a favorite of mine and not readily available in the States. I ate three at a time and still had enough to share with others and to bury some deep in my suitcase so I could take them with me to India! We went river rafting. The high point of my visit was the hike to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. There were 6 of the 8 of us who climbed from 8,000 to over 10,000 feet. The oldest was 80 and I was the youngest at 65. One of the 75-year- olds was the first to arrive at the Monastery! Round trip it took us 7 hours and 10 minutes. What a thrill!

India is not a vacation, but an adventure. I want to say it is a difficult country to visit, but I don’t want you to get the wrong impression. Yes, there is garbage in the streets (a lot!), yes, there are many beggars and yes, every tour site has vendors thrusting souvenirs in your face (but isn’t that true where ever in the world you go?), but on the whole, the people are kind and gentle and the colors are brilliant.

I was not afraid of pickpockets (although I did wear my money belt inside my blouse - no sense taking a chance) instead I felt a pang of sadness and guilt when I inadvertently bought some postcards from the wrong young man. Let me explain. Walking towards the Ganges our group was surrounded by young boys and girls selling postcards and necklaces. We ignored them as our tour guide suggested, but many of us nodded when the particular child that had attached themselves to each of us, stated matter-of-factorially, “That’s ok, I will see you later and then you buy.” Well, later came and I bought a set of postcards, but from someone other than the boy who had elicited my positive response. To be truthful, I had forgotten what he looked like. The original boy found me and when I told him I had already bought, he simply said, “Oh mama, you break my heart!” But it was my heart that was breaking. I wanted to buy something from each of them. Of course, I couldn’t because there would have been an never ending crowd. But if asked to repeat one phrase from the trip that echoes in my mind it’s his simple sentence, “...You break my heart.”

Places visited in India. Calcutta now called Kolkata, where Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity’s mother house is located. Peeked into the room she used, tiny and sparse. It was located over the kitchen, and often was extremely hot.

Delhi with many temples. Interesting was the Qutab Minnar.

In Jaipur we visited the beautiful Amber Fort. One evening we enjoyed a home hosted meal by a local widow and her daughter. We stopped by the beautiful Palace of the Winds, in all of it’s pink splendor. The Jantar Mantar which is a sprawling oversized observatory. The City Palace Museum.

Although we were visiting during the monsoon season, the rains did not deter us from enjoying two game drives as we searched for supposedly present but elusive tigers. Although we didn’t get to see a tiger, we saw many other animals and birds, including a magnificent herd of spotted deer. As they galloped across the road in front of us, they mimicked a PBS special. Beautiful, graceful animals.

I was anxious to experience the OAT Village tented camp and would have enjoyed it more if had been dry. Although the rains gently sprinkled us, we still enjoyed our camel rides. I had ridden a camel in Egypt with a lot more fear. The Indian camels seemed to be shorter or perhaps I was riding with experience?!

Agra and the Taj Mahal. What more do I have to say? Beautiful, spectacular, I quickly run out of adjectives.

Looking at my itinerary we did many additional things, but my paper is running out. To be sure, the trip was more than a series of tourist sites, pictured in a travel brochure. It was the sound of prayer flags, slapping against the wind on a high Bhutanese mountain. The feel of sun baked marble burning the soles of my feet as I circled the pool at the mosque. The devotional expressions of the Sri Lanken pilgrims as we visited Sarnath. It was the clip clop of a camel cart. The bumpy road to Alipura. The scent of mustard oil, something my nose was unused to, but now, sorely misses, as it is not present (in my Sacramento home). The taste of nann. The splash of yellow or orange or pink color in a field of green millet as a sari clad woman gathers grain. And yes, the voice of a brown eyed young man, as he reluctantly moves off to the side of our group, vocalizing, in a gentle whisper, one last time,
“Oh mama, . . . .”

Traveler: Vicki Lydecker from Sacramento, CA traveled on August 19, 2011

I have put off writing this review. It was not the crowds, poverty nor dirt which caused me to dislike this trip. It was the countless hours of shopping, overly fast pace of the trip and too much time on the road, waiting in airports and in train stations. Lots of waiting, lots of shopping so if you're really interested in experiencing the culture, forget it. At one of the home hosted dinners, I was told by a family member they do this 3 times a week for the tourists. It's a business, not a true cultural experience.
This was my 6th trip with OAT and I have enjoyed 4 of them immensely. This one is at the bottom of the list... and wish I hadn't done it! Fortunately, I have been to India in the past and loved it.
Hotels on this trip were nice 4-5 star in most places, food was boring buffet and except for a rickshaw ride with another traveller to the bazaar to interact with the locals, the memories of this trip are less than mediocre.
The group was nice, people were social and had polite manners as well as patience.
I think OAT should rethink this trip, visit fewer places which requires long hours of waiting in crowded rooms, or waiting in tourist Stores for 4 or 5 people to shop and they should concentrate on savoring the real culture of India, it's people, food, religion and perceptions of life.The stores ONLY for tourists should be cancelled or other activities should be provided for NON SHOPPERS.
Some of my most joyous experiences have been in India but unfortunately, they were not on this trip.

Traveler: Sami Calado from Ventura, CA traveled on February 10, 2011

My trip was 321 - 46 and was an ideal time to go to India. Although it was in the high 90's some days, it was dry and not too uncomfortable.

This trip is truly "one of a lifetime". It was fast paced but that was necessary to experience the cities we visited. I figured I could rest when I got home! I did not want to miss a single opportunity to view India and the soundssights.

Our guide, Pushpendra Rathore, was truly the exceptional guide. I have traveled extensively over the past 30 years - completing many, many trips - and I have not experienced such a guide. His enthusiasm for his country, his knowledge of India and the customs and religions were truly exceptional. He was available 247 during the entire trip. The day we left New Dehli he had to be at his office at 9 am before returning to his home which entailed many hours of train travel. We left our hotel at 4 am and he was in the lobby to tell us goodbye. That is "above and beyond" in my book! If anyone reading this review decides on this trip do your very best to get on a tour with Pushpendra. You will not be sorry!

Our air travel arrangements from Atlanta - London Heathrow - New 'Delhi and return via the same route were excellent. We had no more than two hours between flights on any leg of the journey.

India ia an incredible country! Yes, it is dirty, crowded and noisy but that is to be expected in a third world country. That IS why we travel to see and experience other cultures, foods and ways of life that is so very different from the US.

Traveler: Kathryn Coates from Marietta, GA traveled on March 21, 2011

This was my third trip with OAT. I have been to 35 countries and India was, by far, the worst. I have taken many trips with several other tour companies, and this trip was the worst I have ever taken.

I was led to believe, from the OAT brochure, website and other correspondence that I would experience 17 days of exotic "discoveries" in an exciting, unique country. What I found was deplorable filth, noisy and rude crowds and great disappointment.

New Delhi and Jaipur, in particular, were so choked with traffic that we spent most of our time on the bus. Several of the planned activities had to be cancelled or curtailed because of delays in arriving at our destinations due to the impassable heavy traffic. Our tour guide didn't seem to make much effort to find any solutions to this. Instead, after spending hours on the bus to finally reach a place, we were whisked through in a hurry because of the lack of time to explore it properly.

One half hour in the Taj Mahal? The promised early morning visit "to experience the Taj Mahal in the morning light" was moved forward a few hours, probably because our guide wanted to sleep a little later As a result, we were accompanied by about 300,000 other visitors (it was Sunday). The attendance at the "Taj With Love" performace was inexplicably cancelled and we dined at an over-priced mediocre restaurant.

The hotels were fine, although those in New Delhi and Jaipur were so far out of town that we really couldn't do any exploring or shopping on our own in the limited amount of free time that we had.

Several of us took the extension to Nepal, and had to return to New Delhi for twelve additional hours, including six hours at the airport, due to poor scheduling. As a result, we lost a day in Nepal. Although OAT reimbursed us for it, I would have preferred the day in Nepal. Nepal was wonderful!!! I wish I had liked India half as much.

Quite honestly -- I FEEL CHEATED !!! And I would not recommend this trip to anyone.

Traveler: Barbara Herman from Fairfield, CT traveled on February 09, 2011

Amidst the dirt, crowds, medieval life of camels pulling carts, elephants in the stores and thirty plus people riding on top of a moving vehicle, life in India is vibrant, colorful and very much alive. India was incredible as described by OAT’s trip planning. Vivid colors of women’s saris, how they worked and carried loads on their heads as the colors of orange, yellow, green, pink, turquoise, etc. billow in the wind is a sight to see.
Interactive, on-to-go, hustle bustle are the people of India, everyone has somewhere to go, something to do. Our tour leader told the group that Indians are “social animals” and they view visitors as “angels of god”. Yes, our group was greeted warmly in the places we visited; people smiling, waving to our bus as we pass their villages; and children and adults happy to pose and take pictures with us.
OAT put together a great itinerary, yet it is the tour leader who pulls it off to make this an excellent experience. Among the many treasures found in India, is the gem of Sanjay Sethi, our group leader who made the trip memorable. The 14 days of our trip was well-paced which was number one importance for me. Conditions of this particular trip included hot weather, long overland drives, poor living conditions of the locals, early departures, physical activities of some sites and fighting the “hawkers”. Well-paced and well-managed, Sanjay dealt with small things such as tips for toilettes, local guides, temple shoe watchers, and other behind the scene things. Most enjoyable was his “retail therapy” on the bus. To handle the “hawkers” from harassing the group to buy souvenirs, the items from the “hawkers” were brought on the bus by Sanjay to show us and can be purchased in peace without pressure at a fair price. Towards the end of the trip, I started looking forward to Sanjay’s “retail therapy” after each site that we visited.
From historical perspective to current life, OAT covered the range with its itinerary and the guide of Sanjay to make it all come alive. One final ingredient, the group traveled with was fun. All were great travelers. I appreciate the humor, consideration and caring among the group and sharing of viewpoints gained from the many travels of the group members.
These are just a few of my memories of India. One will have to go to India to find out what it is really all about and why it is said, “ India is dirty, full of poverty, a cultural shock but I love it”.

Traveler: Lily Tsuda from Sacramento, CA traveled on April 02, 2011

I was on a trip in December. For some reason my luggage missed my flight from Heathrow to Delhi (despite being in London for over 10 hours).

As a result my luggage was sent a day later on Jet Air. Oat in India was totally unable to extract my luggage from the Delhi airport for 13 days!

If you lose your luggage, do not count on OAT. Be proactive and call the lost luggage numbers yourself. If necessary, hit the customer service prompt if you can't get any answer or response from the Baggage line.

That's what I finally did the day before returning and in a matter of hours they had delivered my baggage to the last hotel. My baggage and I were reunited 8 hours before leaving India.

Luckily, I pack to lose my luggage and had 2 pr of shoes, 2 pr of pants, 2 shirts, underwear. a light jacket etc. in my carry-on. After a few purchases, I survived well on carry on by sending out for laundry every time we were in a 2 night stay hotel.

And the guide was very helpful in locating stores for my to supplement my limited clothing. Aside from a rather redundant wardrobe, it was a pleasure to travel with so little baggage!

Anyway, be forwarned about lost luggage in Delhi, and don't count on the local OAT office there to be proactive about finding it.

Traveler: Sanford Bredine from Chicago, IL traveled on December 15, 2010

India is not for the faint-hearted. It is an assault on all the senses, all the time. It is also a place of dramatic contrasts -- rich and poor, beauty and grime, palaces and shanties, brahmins and untouchables. No doubt, travelers must be prepared for India and recognize it as an experience, not a vacation. In return, it will certainly provide you with powerful memories and bold adventures.
OAT did a respectable job of arranging, caring, transporting and educating. To my mind, however, too much was jammed into the day's schedule. How welcomed it would have been to sit by a pool and decompress for a day! Overall, the traveling was gruesome, largely because of the poor roads, traffic, dust, grime and sheer density of people and animals. Hotels were mixed, some lovely, others so-so. Food tended to be redundant and unexciting. The OAT camp was rather refreshing as was the houseboat extension to the South, which offered more greenery and a more slowed-down pace and attitude. That said, be aware that the houseboat accommodations are bare minimum at best. As with other OAT trips, the tipping is very annoying. How much better it would be if OAT embedded gratuities in the overall cost of trip except for the lead guide who essentially becomes one of the group and shapes the overall experience. Let it be said that OAT does a stellar job in selecting its guides.

Traveler: A&A Bianchi, NYC traveled on January 11, 2011

This trip was quite an experience. The superb historic architecture, the fascination of a culture so different from my own, the friendliness of the people, and the wide variety of transportation modes (rickshaw, tuk-tuk, camel, train, plane) made for many wonderful memories. The trip was well-planned and paced, and the guide (Krish) was excellent.
There were disturbing (or at least disconcerting) sights as well: cremations, disfigured beggars, extremely aggressive street vendors, and constant blaring of horns. All this was an expected part of traveling to India, of course. These aspects of the fabric of Indian life don't make me regret my visit in the least. I'd highly recommend the trip!
The caveat of the the title of this review refers to my experience with an included trip to a hand-woven woolen carpet "factory", where I purchased an area rug. When the rug arrived at my home, it had been damaged by the tight packaging in which it had been shipped, and turned out to be only 80% wool and 20% cotton. Up to now, OAT has taken no steps to help resolve this situation.
So my strong advice is: if you take this trip and visit Shree Carpet, do not buy!
Aside from this problem, if you travel to the Heart of India with OAT, you will have the experience of a lifetime.

Traveler: Stephen Poris from Monroe Township, NJ traveled on January 03, 2011

We have just returned from an "incredible" trip to "Incredible India." Our trip leader, Geeta Singh, was fantastic. We have never had a guide who conveyed such enthusiasm for her country and her culture. This isn't a "vacation" trip. Every day is full of adventure and learnng. We recommend the Southern India post-trip. The contrasts with the northerncentral part of the country are often dramatic.

Traveler: Dan and Nancy, Delaware traveled on January 06, 2011

I just returned from the Heart of India trip with the Bhutan extension and wanted to make some suggestions for future travellers.

First of all, some people have suggested bringing a lot of cash and plenty of one dollar bills. Bring cash, but only to change to rupies. Everyone, even in Bhutan, but especially the street vendors in India bargain in rupies and with this exchange rate, you will get a better deal if you use them. Don't bring large bills, just $20 as the hotel may not be able to cash them. Ask for small change and try to keep the 1000 rupie notes to a minimum.

Most trinkets cost about 100 to 200 rupies. The guides have worked out a deal with the street vendors, so they will hassle you less. Ignore the vendors during the tour. Then after and you have gotten back on the bus, they will crowd around the door and hand the items to the guide. The guide will show you the item and tell you a good price. You can buy or not. One guide called it the Bus Bazaar. That way, you don't have to worry about haggling or getting surrounded by street vendors if you show the least bit of interest.

Bring an ATM card that you can use. I foolishly brought my credit union card only to find out that they blocked me from using it in India. It was a HUGE ordeal to get things worked out, especially since they don't have 24 hr. service. So, bring a card from a major bank and let them know in advance that you are going on a trip, so they won't freeze your card. Major stores take credit cards, but don't give it to anyone in a small store or on the street.

I was not prepared for the amount of tipping that I had to do. You have your trip leader, plus then you also have a city guide and the bus driver and his helper. Please budget accordingly and bring enough cash for them.

Every hotel, except one in Bhutan, had shampoo and a hair dryer in the room. At the Bhutanese hotel, you had to ask for the hair dryer. So, don't bring a lot of shampoo or a hair dryer, but do bring conditioner if you need it.

Many places used the three pronged round plugs. But, some places used the round two pronged plugs. If you don't have the right plug, the front desk is able to send a converter up. Many Kindles, shavers and electronics can now be used with 110 or 230, so you may not need a voltage converter.

The temp in Bhutan in December is cold in the mornings (30-40 degrees) and warming up to the 60's during the day. But, the sun is intense, so bring sun block and wear layers. Even thougth is was supposed to be in the low 70's in India, there was a cold snap and it was colder than Bhutan. Why? India tends to have a lot of fog during this season, so it was damp and bone chilling. Be prepared and bring a variety of clothes, including hand warmers or gloves and a coat.

For most temples, you have to remove your shoes. So, bring a pair of "Temple Socks" that you can wear over your daily socks and throw out at the end of the trip. The best choice would be footies that you can easily put on and remove.

India is now requiring a copy of your birth certificate. So, if you don't have one, get it now. My husband has no record of his birth and it was a huge hassle right before we had to leave.

Okay, a few comments just about the trip. It was awesome. If you can afford to add Bhutan do it! It was stunningly beautiful and like no place I've ever been.

This was my 9th OAT trip and Sujay Lall, my guide in India was the best I've ever had. From reading other reviews, OAT has amazing India guides. Sujay always had options for our "free time" and these were what made the trip special. If you are brave, take a tuc tuc ride through Jaipur. You'll never forget your experience. Sujay was always looking for some new adventure or experience to bring us closer to the heart of his beloved India. Consider yourself a lucky person if you get Sujay as your guide.
Here are my photos, if you are interested: http:www.pbase.comnamaste859root

Traveler: Joael Kelly from Hurst, TX traveled on December 13, 2010

I’ve never awarded less than four stars for any of my 9 other GCTOAT trips. However, this particular Heart of India booking rates three stars wholly due to poor service by Air India, and to a lesser degree due to OAT’s air travel management. While our JFK to Delhi Air India flight was fine and on time, our Air India connection to Calcutta departed at 1 am, 5 hours late. Gate number and departure time were not posted until an hour before departure. Native Indian passengers were yelling at Air India gate persons (when they were in sight), and the Air India staff were yelling back or walking away. It was so bad that the event was reported in the Calcutta Telegraph newspaper the next day. On our return from Delhi to New York, we boarded our Air India aircraft at midnight, then sat in the plane for three hours waiting for the arrival of six connecting passengers. Because of this delay, others and I missed our connections in New York. I had to overnight at a hotel near the airport before continuing on to Boston on a Delta flight the next morning. In spite of my bag having been checked from New Delhi to Boston, Delta removed that checked luggage tag, attached one of their own tags and required that I pay $25. Indian nationals had warned me about Air India beforehand, and I now understand why. If OAT were to book your air travel with Air India, choose another trip or travel company.

This was a Heart of India trip with Bhutan pre-trip extension. We first spent a day and a half in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta). While there we visited Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity along with a few other sites of some historical significance. I appreciate having been there, but having been there, would rather have flown directly to Bhutan from Delhi.

We found Bhutan to be pastoral, very mountainous, not crowded, well organized, and welcoming. Tashi Dorji, our guide, was a young and engaging university graduate who spoke English very well. While traveling some tortuous mountain roads, our small bus was comfortable and our driver skilled. With one exception, accommodations were good to excellent. There was no school visit in Bhutan, but a visit to a farmhouse and its neighborhood were very interesting, charming, and memorable. Bhutanese architecture is rather like that of Tibet, but more handsome. We flew to Paro, Bhutan from Kolkata, and from Paro to Delhi, India via Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan. It provided superior service with modern equipment. Highlight of my trip occurred on the flight from Paro to Delhi, as we passed right by Mt. Everest on a beautiful, blue sky day. I enjoyed a window seat on the right side of the aircraft. For a half-hour the Himalayan Range was in full view as we flew East to West. My photos may be seen at: http:picasaweb.google.comrichmondraBhutan2010#

We arrived in Delhi on November 15th and followed the Heart of India with Pushkar Camel Fair itinerary. Our “Tour Director” was Sushil Hidaya, an Indian and British university graduate, whose English language vocabulary and elocution was superior to that of most Americans. He claimed to have conducted more than 280 tours of India in 20 years, an that was apparent as he led us expertly across central India. He was outstanding at his task as was our bus driver, who navigated unmarked country and city roads in chaotic traffic without once becoming lost or having a close call. Bravo !! Accommodations in India were good to excellent. Truly excellent were the Svelte in Delhi, the Golden Tulip in Jaipur, the Japypee Palace in Agra, and the Radisson in Varanasi.

Though November was considered to be part of the “dry season”, we had rain. We benefited from rain in Pushkar prior to our arrival, because upon our arrival it had eliminated dust, which normally is a problem at the fairgrounds. Rain was just awful for our visit to Ranthambhore National Park. The wide-open trucks provided no protection from the rain on our first game drive. We got soaked and stuck in the mud for a half-hour. The park was closed subsequently for safety. We saw no tigers and saw very little other wildlife in this national park.

After leaving Ranthambhore we visited Ramsinghpura village and its Grand Circle Foundation supported, local, private elementary school. It was well attended by the village children because it is free and located in the village. The “local” public school is far enough away to discourage school attendance by the majority of the village children. The visit was inspirational and impressive. This, along with the Taj Mahal and the rickshaw rides in Delhi and Varanasi were for me highlights of my time in India. Several of us made contributions to the school through the Grand Circle Foundation.

Our weather was better for the rest of the trip. As the Taj Mahal is closed on Friday, we went there directly upon our Agra arrival on a Thursday. From a distance of 100 yards and more it is a truly magnificent work of art. On Friday morning we visited the Red Fort, from which we could see the Taj Mahal in different light and at a distance from a different perspective.

Travel from Agra to Khajuraho required a three-hour train ride to Jhansi, then an arduous, five-hour bus ride over muddy, congested country roads. We spent the next morning viewing the thousand-year-old Khajuraho temples, and then caught an afternoon flight to Varanasi. The time spent reaching and leaving Khajuraho seemed not worth the short visit there.

Varanasi is probably the oldest, continually populated city in India. It is the holiest of places for Hindus, and is important for Buddhists, as the Lord Buddha is said to have given his first sermon in the suburb of Sarnath. Opportunities to view evening and sunrise religious services and ablutions at the ghats and on the Ganges were excellent. Our rickshaw rides to and from the Ganges also were memorable.
My photos of the Indian portion of this trip may be seen at:
http:picasaweb.google.comrichmondraIndia2010#

Traveler: Richard Richmond from Winchester, MA traveled on November 05, 2010

This trip was a birthday present for my wife (#69) and she was not disappointed. Our Trip Leader made the trip - really - without his sense of humor and total openess about all things Indian, our sensibilities would have been confused at best. I could list the itinerary and describe each one but that is for you to see when you go. After all, there is nothing I can add to descriptions of the Taj Mahal or the red fort or whatever. I enjoyed the seemingly chaotic traffic with the horns going for communications between drivers of buses, trucks, rickshaws, camels, tuk tuks,donkeys, bicycles, motorcycles and the frequent freewheeling cow, dog, pig, camel, person...you name it! And I never saw a case of road rage! Remarkable! And it was explained to us, that such things as red lights and speed signs (didn't actually see any of those) were mere suggestions.

Krishan Dev Sharma was our guide and our friend. The accomodations were all quite nice, especially the camp in the cool of the evening with jackals yipping close by. Krish led us through each feature we visited with grace and enough info to understand the good the bad and the ugly. There was some of each just as in any country.

Krish, please know that you are invited to my house any time you want to come and visit. With your wife and children, too!

We had a couple if things that did not happen - the tiger chose to stay hidden at
Rathambore and the balloon canceled for winds - or so we were told. I did not see any winds that day but...the pilot said so. Neither of these was in the control of OAT so I guess we just have to go back?

We did some shopping at the stores recommended by OAT and got some great goodies. A nice pair of earrings, gold with rubies and tiny diamonds, pleased my wife of 48 years. And I had fun bargaining.

I am a nut about pictures and just about wore out my finger on my D90 taking some 2500 shots, many of them truly candid shots of the man on the street. We saw a few unexpected events in progress and they enhanced the experience and the photo ops.

The camel ride was a doozy. If you do this one (and I say try it) take a pillow or something. My camel saddle was all wood and the camel was a huge beast that went more up and down like a pile driver than like the "ship of the desert" that stories tell about. Result was a bleeding blister that took a few days to heal. Never mind the location. Not the worst thing that ever happened to me but no more camels for me. You can have them all. I was told in the middle east that they are delicious.

I especially enjoyed the back roads so we could see the rural parts of India. Nice folks all.

When we got to Kathmandu, we saw temples and more temples and enjoyed them all. We, as a whole group, persuaded our guide to take us up to a small village on a hill near Kathmandu. This turned out to be one of the highlites of nepal and I recommend it to all. The village was Nagarkot and it is a couple thousand feet above the city. Great views! We each paid a small fee for the unscheduled optional tour and were glad we did. 20 bucks as I recall for the bus and the drivers for a trip that took about three hours. It was schedlued in the "free time" on the last day.

I had some problems with the itinerary (part of that was my fault) and the British Air cnx due to engine problem return trip but that was solved and OAT stayed on the problem until it was solved. We were rerouted to Emirate Air and I can vouch that Sheik Mohammed runs a fine airline, business class anyway. Delhi to Dubai and Dubai direct to LAX over the north pole was an extra we did not expect. I saw what sure looked like global warming to me. Huge breaks in the ice at the pole in March 2010! Never saw such an early break of the ice before.

We were with the greatest group of travelers that ever was. Not a complainer in the group! Thanks guys, for making a memorable trip even more memorable. If we had problems, we laughed them away. Like Krish said several times - It's a free country!

We were told not to give money to the beggars. We did not and I strongly suggest that you follow that advice, too! In the areas where such things do not happen and there are few touristas to spoil the scene, we experienced real people with normal expectations. In the cities where there are many touristas, we were dogged by kids and beggars.

All in all a truly great experience and a great trip with good planning and a great trip leader.

Traveler: James Bridges from Austin, TX traveled on February 24, 2010

We were just about fully prepared to leave on our trip, when mother nature blanketed the north east coast with a major snow storm which caused the New York airports to be shut down. Air India re-booked our departure for two days later so we arrived in Delhi two days late. Working with OAT in Boston by phone enabled us to join our group and pick up on the tour with out skiping a beat.
So we joined our group as they were getting ready to leave for the first of three home hosted dinners. Even though we were a little ragged from the ordeal of a very long flight, our trip leader, Sandeep Kaushik, and our fellow travelers made us feel right at home.
The next morning we left Delhi for Jaipur the capital of Rajasthan called the "Pink City" and so our introduction to India started. The sights, smells, sounds, and cultures of India are very exciting. On the way to Jaipur we stopped for lunch in the village of Chomu and had lunch served in the former palace of the local Maharaja. The sight seeing in and around Jaipur is excellent featureing the "Amber Fort". Then on to Ranthanbore National Park. The hotel here will blow your mind as will the sightings of Bengal Tigers on your game drives. The "Day in the Life of" program is just fabulous as you really get into the lives of village people and school children who are doing their every day things while you look on.
Then get ready to shift gears completely as you arrive in the OAT Village Camp for a one night stay in really nice tents with a great camel ride through small villages and a really nice show that the camp people put on around a campfire.
Next stop, Agra and the centerpiece of any trip to India, the Taj Mahal. You wont believe your eyes when you first see it. The natural beauty and the history of it give you a wonderful feeling.
After a train ride the next morning and then a ride by coach its Khajuraho with fabulous temples of the Hindus and Jains and of course the erotic carvings. Off to Varanasi the holy Hindu city on the Ganges River.
This was our 17th trip with OATGCT and it was the most difficult, with many early morning wake-ups and long days packed with wonderful activities. There are also several long and bumpy rides but as I review the trip now those things fade from memory and the visions, flavors, sounds and great company is what remains. The food is great but its not what you might be used to, but there is plenty of good wholesome food if you like. You don't always have to eat Indian but a little dish of lentals with each meal is great.
We did the post trip extention to the south with three great days living on house boats and learning about the culture of the south.
Don't hesitate, call today and get to see the real "Heart of India".

Traveler: Paul & Carolyn Knepfer from Great Neck, NY traveled on February 10, 2010

I have always wanted to go to India. I wanted to see the Taj Mahal. However, India proved to be so much more than one wonderful building. It was everything I thought it would be and more. All the extras were due to the most wonderful guide you could have on such an exotic trip. His name was Karni Singh. I went alone half way around the world and once I met him I was not one bit worried about my welfare. I did get sick ,as luck would have it, in line, at sunrise, for our visit to the Taj. He handled it all beautifully, & I did get to see it later on. I was never lonely as we had a delightful group of travelers that always tried to include me & I even liked them all. Hard to believe!! I still have the sights & sounds of India in my mind daily.

Traveler: Kathleen Savino from New Orleans, LA traveled on March 03, 2010

After my first trip to India (one day in Cochin and one day in Mumbai as part of a 30 day cruise from Bangkok to Venice), I promised myself that I would never go back there. That trip was really my first exposure to the extreme filth, poverty, begging and pollution that was totally overwhelming to me.

But several years later, the Taj Mahal got on my bucket list, so I had to go back to India. I am so glad that I did because it was a wonderful experience!

I'm glad that I took the pre-trip to Bhutan. Bhutan is a beautiful, mostly pristine, mostly Buddhist country. We had a great guide, Tshering, who shared his love for the country, its history and its wonderful, warm people with us. The scenery amazed me at every turn. We were in the foothills of the Himalayas between about 5,000 and 10,000 feet in January. The weather was cool but not frigid. Bhutan is a democratic country but with a king. The people wear their authentic, very attractive, national dress clothing in public. Bhutan has stunningly beautiful architecture. Visiting Bhutan is a wonderful, not to be missed experience!

We were very fortunate when we flew from Paro, Bhutan to New Delhi, India because we had a beautiful, clear day and we got to see the Himalayas and Mount Everest in all their glory! I took some amazingly beautiful photos right from my window of the plane of the Himalayas and Mount Everest.

We had a wonderful guide in India, Daisy. One of the first things that Daisy explained to us is that India is a land of contrasts. One must look beyond the filth, poverty and begging to see all its beauty and wonders. She taught us so much about India, its history, its religions, and its people. Her love for India was a shining beacon for all of us. We saw and experienced so much in India: the wonderful Indian people, so many of the wonderful and World Heritage sites, the cows, the camels, the monkeys (in most unusual places), all the different modes of transport (planes, trains, rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, buses, make-shifts, camels and hot-air balloons).

My optional hot-air balloon ride at sunrise was a memorable experience. We took off from very close to the Amber Fort near Jaipur. We had just seen the Amber Fort the day before so it was very nice seeing it from above also. The hot air balloon ride itself was a very nice experience. We could see and hear the people in the villages coming to life and all the sites from above. We had to land sooner than our pilot expected and very near a small village. It must have been a very unusual occurrence because a lot of villagers came running out to see it. It was an other-worldly experience. The villagers were a curious, not hostile, but not friendly, group. Our English (via Denver) pilot could not speak their dialect and neither could anyone in the hot air balloon, three of which were Indians on vacation. The pilot called his ground people to come to us at our present location. It took a while for them to find us. We smiled and tried to communicate with the villagers but most did not smile back and it was rather tense. We got our few minutes of fame. As one of my fellow travelers said later, it was a “take me to your leader” experience. From their looks, we might as well have been from outer space.

I loved seeing and experiencing the Taj Mahal - my reason for going to India! It was everything I wanted it to be and more! It is so much bigger and even more beautiful in real life! But India is so much more than the Taj Mahal! Its peoples and its sites - the whole experience is not to be missed! I am so happy that I went!

Traveler: Sharon Blais from Healdsburg, CA traveled on January 18, 2010

We still haven't fully recovered from our most exciting and colorful adventure to India with our fantastic leader, Karni. I have to say Oat has the best guides for these trips. They are so knowledgable and personable, that you want to pack them up and take them home with you. We were also blessed with a great group of like -minds to share this adventure. The other reviews did a great job in laying out what to wear, eat ,watch out for, that I won't bother with that.
Instead, I want to emphasize impressions that you will take back with you. You must travel with an open mind. You must be flexible and go with the flow. The beauty and color will be overwelming at times. Imagine Indian women dressed in lovely saris that you would consider "dress-up" and doing field-work. Imagine sharing the busy roads with cows, camels, elephants, goats, lambs, buses, trucks, rickshaws, motorbikes and migrant Gypsies...all at the same time.
Then Oat provides an additional POW by serving up a beautiful lunch in tents filled with color and a seperate small tent with a complete toilet facility in the middle of nowhere This was on the way to OAT camp where we stayed overnight in charming tent cabins. When we arrived, we were treated to turban-tying lessons and colorful scarves before being taking on our exciting camel ride through the local countryside. I think I sat on the tallest camel in the bunch. As it got dark, a men's dance troupe danced and invited us to join in. We also had a local lady show us how really good naan was made on an open fire pit.. At night as we tried to sleep, our night music consisted of birds loudly cooing and jackles baying at the moon. ...And this was only one day of our trip.
Some of our group did get Delhi belli but nothing too serious. We didn't because we avoided dairy unless it was cooked. Again, use common sense. I would like to stress "going through security " is much tighter now then it used to be. Most of us had our carry-ons gone through with a fine tooth -comb. Ie. a large bell, a wooden cobra, a tiny manicure scissor and an electric toothbrush...Play it safe. Put it in the checkthrough luggage. Another suggestion I would make is to bring a folding cane or walking stick if you possibly need it to help walking easier. You will encounter very steep steps that often don't have handrails.
If you want to have an unforgetable experience, visit the heart of India by all means.

Traveler: Gary Kirschner from Larkspur, CA traveled on March 03, 2010

India was not on my "bucket list" when we signed up (urged by some good friends), but having taking the trip, I'd say it SHOULD be on everyone's "bucket list." Be prepared to live in a time warp, with 21st century features (natural gas vehicles, modern subway system, cell phones, modern hotels and apartments) and ancient ways (rickshaw and camel drawn carts; milk cans, water pumps and hand ground flour to name a few). As in 18th and 19th century America, there is filth everywhere; people just don't pick up garbage on the streets. Our fabulous leader (Prahbu Singh) said that's because they don't recognize the concept of trash. On the other hand, they recycle anything they can find a use for!

Here are some tips & observations:
1- OPTIONAL TOURS: Do two of the optional tours for sure: Aarti ceremony and Ranthambore Fort. We had mixed feelings about the musical show (Taj With Love), but it's a view of Ballywood and the dinner afterwards was good. Also, do take advantage of all the opportunities to walk through the villages and see village life.
2- FOOD: If you are used to Indian food, you won't find this food spicy (for the most part); they did a good job of hitting the happy medium. It was never hot enough for me, but my partner thought it was too hot! And there were generally American food options. Try the new food - you may be surprised.
3- MOSQUITOES: The travel clinic we went to, following CDC guidelines, told us to take Malaria pills, but Prahbu told us this kind of mosquito isn't around after the monsoons (ending September). I took my pills but wouldn't do it again. I got one mosquito bite the whole trip, and we only encountered a few isolated mosquitoes about 3 times. There is Dengue Fever to worry about, but with so few bugs, it wasn't worth putting on repellent.
4-HOTELS: We found the accommodations excellent (hot water, toilets, showers, etc) so some of the other reviews surprised me.
5- TRAVEL BY BUS: The drives are long and arduous. Once we had to stop for a "potty break" by the side of the road, which was an experience! Curious natives looked on from a respectful distance, and there were bushes to shield us. But there is so much to see along the way, and Prahbu gave us interesting talks on many topics during these drives so the time passed more quickly than you would expect.
6- TOILETS: The toilets (outside the hotel) take some getting used to. There may or may not be a western style toilet. Most are a rectangular hole that you must straddle. Some (we didn't use these) are just a small room with a drain at the end and water to flush with. Do tip the people who clean the toilets, as this is an important function and their livelihood
7- BIRDS: We were lucky that some of our travel companions were birders, and I believe they documented over 100 birds!
8- WILDLIFE: We were among the 30% of visitors to the national park who saw a tiger, and we saw her (T17) up close as she walked by the jeep. However, had we not seen one, the experience was still awesome - just watching the naturalist "track" her, knowing we were getting close, was not to be missed. Plus we saw most of the other wildlife there, except for a leopard and a bear.
9- MONEY: Take lots of $1 bills; we each took $100 in ones and used about $80. You can use them with street vendors and for tips (see below). You will need some rupies - because you are charged for every ATM transaction, get all you need at the first ATM! Forget travelers checks - we took them and didn't use.
10 - TIPS: The one problem I have with OAT is that you are expected to tip everywhere. Guidelines are provided but we thought tipping bus driver, bus driver helper, city tour guides, and tour leader was excessive (about $14-$20day plus hotel tips). I wish they paid people better.
11-SHOPPING: There are lots of places to learn about crafts and then buy (high-pressure - be prepared). I suggest that after the presentation, the bus should leave with those who do not want to buy. These places will take you back to your hotel if you want to stay and shop for an hour or two. Make this suggestion to your group leader. Those who don't want to shop should have the afternoon to do other things.
12- SKIRTS VS PANTS: We each brought a skirt because they were supposed to be easier to use with the toilets. But as good as skirts are slacks with narrow legs or elastic at the cuff (or carry rubber bands) - you want something that won't touch the floor of the toilet, which can be wet!
13- CLOTHES: Take less than you think you will need. You can wear the same slacks over and over; you need more tops (keep them light cotton blends so you can wash out and dry on the first day of a three night stay somewhere). It was cooler at night, so a light jacket helped.
14- ILLNESS: Most people had some range of intestinal disorder - as mild as needing 12 pill (anti-diarrheal med) every couple days to needing the 3-day antibiotic prescribed by the travel clinic (azithromycin 250 mg).
15- WATER: Don't worry - the bus has safe water as does the hotel (all provided). We didn't need to worry about buying any (good thing, now that Indians have figured out how to reseal bottles of water!)
16- STREET VENDORS: They can be a pest - it sounds rude, but acting as if they don't exist (totally ignoring them) is the only way. Prahbu told us "to them, 'no' means 'yes'!" The group leaders actually hire locals to help himher protect you from the vendors, and it only failed to work in one place (Sarnath).
17- NEGOTIATING PRICES: You can negotiate. If they walk away, then you know you've offered too little. Let them come down several times before you make a counter offer.
18- SERENDIPITOUS EXPERIENCES: The best part of this trip were the experiences we had that weren't planned: Seeing a cow try to get into a bus, stopping by a wedding parade and getting to talk to the guests and even dance with them, seeing the money changers in Varanasi, finding a stash of thrown-out hand-made pottery cups, having a small boy give us a tour of the cremations in Varanasi
19- NOVEMBER TRAVEL: An advantage to November travel is that it's the month of weddings. One night we counted 26 wedding parades along the side of the road, on our way to the hotel from dinner. It's amazing to see, the groom on a white horse, people carrying battery powered lamps, a brass band, etc.
20- MISCELLANEOUS: Be flexible and open to delays, schedule changes and cancellations. Be amazed that the accommodations are so westernized. Be sad for the extreme poverty (by our standards at least) but happy to see how people function under what we would consider difficult circumstances.

Traveler: Carolyn from Crest Hill, IL traveled on November 17, 2009

India is interesting and intriguing, a country simultaneously functioning in the 15th Century and the 21st Century. If you want to do a little pre-trip learning, read “The White Tiger,” a 2008 Booker award winner (also recommended by our guide) and watch “Monsoon Wedding,” and “Gandhi.” Traffic was amusing (since we weren’t driving) with rickshaws, scooters, buses, trucks, camel carts and cows sharing roads, oblivious to the constant honking. The country’s spirituality, certainly the aarti ceremony on the Ganges, is memorable, as is the Taj Mahal, so well-known, but stunning in size and workmanship when seen in person. Other highlights: the brightly colored saris and shawls of Indian women, seeing tigers and the Gandhi assassination site. No worries about a language barrier: “Only a hundred rupees, madam!” is always well enunciated. Our guide, Sujay, was excellent, efficient and organized, and our group was friendly and compatible. The poverty and clutter are comparable to other developing countries and to neighborhoods we all may have in our towns and states. When I travel to places like India, where traditions and cultures are thousands of years old, I return and look at my home a bit differently. I wonder what visitors will say about the USA in 1,000 years? What will be an archaeological site? What will be a cultural relic? Who will be remembered? And, then I plan the next trip.

Traveler: Carolyn from Fort Worth, TX traveled on December 29, 2009

OAT did a wonderful job in introducing us to a very complex, interesting country like India. We did not know what to expect. We read all the reviews of India on this site and still we were surprised by what we saw and experienced. If you are planning a trip to India, you should be aware of the following:

FOOD- While I am a lover of Indian food in the US, I found the food in India very different. First, except for breakfast where you will receive some Western breakfast items like eggs, toast, bacon, etc., all the meals are essentially the same day after day. You will be eating rice, lentils, some chicken, some fish, and vegetables. The best thing you will eat will be bread which is delicious. The food in Kerala is quite different, village food. If you like coconut, you will be delighted because every dish has some coconut in it. If you don't like coconut, you are in trouble. What I found most distressing, however, was that of the 16 people on the trip, 14 became sick. Four people were so sick in Kerala that they missed many activities and took to their bed for the 7 days we were in Southern India. Be careful with the milk products like yogurt and ice cream. The milk is made from a combination of buffalo, cow, and goat milk. After I cut milk products out of my diet, I stopped getting sick.

TRAFFIC- It is one thing when people tell you that the traffic is horrible in India. It is quite another thing to really experience it. If you have the misfortune of sitting in the front of the bus, you will arrive at your destination with a horrible headache. The drivers constantly honk their horns at each other. The trucks even have signs saying PLEASE HONK HORNS. This is probably why we never saw an accident. As the bus driver moves along, he is constantly weaving in and out of traffic.

DIRT,DUST,GARBAGE- As a rule, we are not accustomed to seeing garbage in the street. In India, there is garbage strewn all over the sides of the roads. You will see cows, pigs, and dogs eating garbage from the paper wrappers which are everywhere.

PEOPLE- While I found the people in India very nice and helpful, I had the feeling that they are all struggling to make a decent living in a country which is very overpopulated. My husband, a birdwatcher, tried to walk by himself several times in the city to see birds. Men would approach him and ask him if he needed help finding a grocery store or asking him if they could help him to get around the city. These people are called "touts" and they are everywhere.

GUIDES - Our guides, Karni and Kabeer were wonderful. Karni was a resident of Jaipur and he was able to show us places that we would not normally have been able to visit like Rambaugh Palace and the movie theatre. Kabeer was an excellent naturalist who pointed out many species of birds and plants while we coasted down the river in our houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala.

HOTELS - We stayed in wonderful hotels, at least 4 stars and even a beautiful palace at Ranthambore National Park. I felt like the hotels were not the real India, however. The real India is chaotic. Our guide described India as organized chaos. Our hotels was a respite from the chaos of the street, noise, vendors, dust, and garbage.

I recommend that you go to India. It is a fascinating country historically and religiously and you will come away with an appreciation of our human story. India is not an easy country to visit. Visit while you are youngish and healthy.

Traveler: Joseph & Glenda from Portland, OR traveled on December 20, 2009

I have taken several OAT trips and this was one of my favorites. India is a Country of amazing contrasts and beauty; with OAT’s small groups and excellent guides we were able to experience it on a very intimate level. For a photographer it was a dream come true as we stepped into the very fabric of life in small villages, homes, temples as well as many of the more traditional sites.
To get the most out of this trip bring an open mind and a strong, flexible spirit.
The North was an eye opener; busy, loud, chaotic, dirty, beautiful and cold (in January). It was amazing to see multiple modes of transportation all ignoring traffic lights and somehow not crashing into each other or the wondering cow.
Our trip leader Sujay, was very open and freely discussed the positives as well as the negatives in his country. He seemed to have unlimited connections and plan B’s if we were interested. He was constantly preparing us for the next step which he warned may or may not happen as planned. The morning we were to take the train to Jhansi required particular flexibility. We were told the train was delayed because of the fog and might not even make it to our station. Sujay had secured a bus, which meant we could have a leisurely breakfast followed by a very long bus ride. However, he did not give up on the train, which would dramatically shorten the trip to Khajuraho, plus give us another unique experience. He made numerous calls while we were all eating and was able to contact a waiter on the train. The waiter said the train would still arrive close to the original time, so we all agreed to gamble and go to the train station which meant that our leisurely breakfast had to end quickly and we had less than an hour to get organized and out the door. The train did arrive, a little late, but soon we were back on schedule.
January was colder than expected and I was very glad that I had packed a pair of silk long underwear, a warm hat and a balaclava (I wish I had included gloves as well). And as careful as we were with the water and food, everyone in our group found our Western stomachs not up to all the challenges. A famous pink bottle made the rounds. For most of us a day or two of eating lightly or sticking to BRAT (bananas, rice, applesauce and toast) was all we needed.
For anyone that can afford the extra time I highly recommend ending with the extension to the South. It was the polar opposite of the North (almost like visiting a different country); calm, relaxing and the food was made with special sensitivity to our Western stomachs… delicious!!! But be prepared for small quarters. I would recommend traveling with a smaller bag for the 3 days.
Mumbai was another unexpected pleasure. OAT had arranged a City tour, which was great, but we spent too much time trying to find lunch. I would recommend bringing snacks on the bus so you get to see the most of this City, which is an interesting combination of the North and the South.

Traveler: Cynthia from Burke, VA traveled on December 29, 2009

This trip was fantastic! What a value! We got to experience so many aspects of India in just a little over two weeks. We saw fabulous temples, took in the highlights of the big cities, visited rural villages, spotted a tiger at the National Park and witnessed a very moving ceremony at the Ganges. This trip really gives you a great overview of the beauty and diversity of India. Also, our guide was one of the best I have ever had, the hotels were top notch and the included meals we're wonderful. Highly recommend this trip if you are seeking to get a real "taste" of India.

Traveler: Sherri from Dunmore, PA traveled on December 14, 2009

Others have well presented the excitement and wonders of northern India in the reviews on this site, so I won’t describe my own at length. This was my second trip to India with Oat; the north was just as I remembered it– filled with religious fervor– marvelous spice smells mixed in with beggars, trash, and indescribable disorder, chaotic traffic sorting itself out so that everything evolved into a graceful ballet of cars, buses, rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles, cattle, monkeys and people gliding among the traffic -- making their way elegantly or not-- in and out.

A really different experience on this trip was that I did see tigers in all their resplendence, three to be exact. That is the reason that I returned. Well, it wasn’t the only reason. I took my daughter-in-law, who teaches yoga, with me and I so wanted to see India through her eyes. Beforehand, I chuckled at the idea that she would meet real gurus but she did! Thanks to Sujay–the most gracious and efficient Tour Leader I have ever had on any of my 18 OAT trips. And I have had some very good ones. Through his astonishing networks she met real gurus who blessed her and made the experience deeply meaningful. Because of Sujay’s effective contacts, we weren’t delayed in our train rides or flights. He kept in constant contact with the airports and railway men. In some way, he always knew ahead of time what we might encounter because of bad weather or late trains.

However, what I’d like to tell about is my utter astonishment at the difference between the north and south of India. I took the Cochin extension and am so glad I did. I would never have realized that India is not just temples, beggars, filth, noisy parties at hotels and sometimes utter pandemonium.

The houseboat experience was a great relief after the fast pace we experienced in the north. It was three days of delightful floating along the back waterways in Kerala. We passed along beautiful well-kept houses and villages. We went into villages, and though we could not communicate verbally with the people, a smile sufficed to let us know that we were welcome. The kids asked us for pens and shampoo, but were not persistent when on the advice of Kabeer, our tour leader on the trip extension, we said we didn’t have any. Kabeer explained that the kids just wanted a novelty from America or the big hotels, which pens and hotel shampoo represent. Each boat had a crew of three men, who toiled at various tasks interchangeably. They were polite, prompt and very competent.

I would not have wanted less time on the houseboats, but I would have liked much more time in Cochin and especially Mumbai. These were, on the whole, quite lovely cities.

I loved the southern colonial architecture and tried to imagine what life must have been for the Brits, as well as for the Indians. I wondered if British colonialism helped perpetuate the caste system. Though outlawed, it still is very evident almost everywhere, though less visible in the south than in the north. Our tour leaders both pointed out why there are so many Muslims, Buddhists and Christians there– it was to escape the castes and the accompanying burdens– not to escape Hinduism. But even then there are formal stratifications within those religions also. So it isn’t easy to escape. To help oneself understand India, I would recommend this extension to all who are considering the trip.

Traveler: Carol from New Castle, DE traveled on December 29, 2009

I am not going to write a lot of words to describe the trip because many ahve already done so... What I am going to do is say that Bhutan was an incredible experience and We are so happy that we took the pre trip. From the second we got on the plane to Bhutan MAGIC was in the air and the rest of the trip continued on the same frequentcy. This is a country that one must see before they go. Our tour guide Dorji, with his knowledge and love for his country shared all. If you find that you can't do lots of stuff it's okay there is more to do. You pace yourself as we did. The King of Bhutan was on our plane going back to Dehli and that was an experience to see his ministers as well as him traveling on the same plane.
Now the heart of India, We had a guide Phrabu, with his knowledge, passion and again his love for India, made our adventure....FANTASTIC.
One of the most important things one needs to know before going to India is that
we are there to ACCEPT, their culture and their ways,; therefore there are no EXPECTATIONS only ACCEPTANCE.
WHEN THAT IS MET then you will enjoy a world that is special and people who are real.
OAT really did justice to this trip and we are looking forward to Easter Island, Patagonia this chirstmas.
LEAVE YOUR JUDGEMENT AT HOME, you will return at the end of the trip...We had a great time.....

Traveler: WayneBarbara from Dix Hills, NY traveled on December 11, 2009

I suspect most Americans have the Taj Mahal in mind when they go to India for the first time. That was my goal as well. But while I enjoyed the Taj and the big landmarks, they didn’t come close to the creating the meaning and excitement of the trip for me. Far more interesting was the culture, the everyday life of the people, watching them live and work.

Perhaps the most fascinating experiences for me were the family visits, especially the second Hindu family we had dinner with at their home in Jaipur. The couple had been married eight years. The man of the house was outspoken, the wife was pleasant, but remained in the background. He showed us their two volumes of beautiful wedding pictures, the families and guests dressed in brilliant colors and costumes. I couldn’t help myself, I had to ask questions, some of them personal. He said he’d picked his bride from photos his mother had given him, that his mother had arranged the marriage, that his bride got to see his picture only after the decision. Later, I remarked to Jay, our guide, that in the wedding pictures, the bride looked downcast, sullen. He informed me that was typical, that the bride is leaving her family for a new one, that to appear joyful about it is not appropriate.

Jay informed us of many facts about the still extant caste system in India. Things have loosened up, but this tradition still has an impact, especially on marriage. Hindus make up some 83% of the population of India, and 65%-70% of Hindu marriages are arranged. Unlike the U.S., the divorce rate in India is low. That reminded me of a talk I heard economist Thomas Sowell give in San Francisco a number of years ago, that in the working through of human problems there are usually no solutions, only tradeoffs.

The homes of average Indians appear to be in a constant state in incompletion and repair. The owner buys as many bricks as he can afford, and builds a wall onto his house. When he runs out of bricks, he stops until he can buy more. In the meanwhile, the half-completed wall looks like its been knocked down, or partially collapsed. But, of course, it’s simply under ongoing construction.

It is no joke that in India you need three things to drive: a horn, a brake, and luck. The constant beep-beeping and tie ups attested to that. Yet, I didn’t see any serious accidents, and though it appeared to be chaotic, everyone seemed to get through. As pedestrians, animals have it made. Cows and other animals walk around at their leisure, leaving pies here and there. Monkeys scamper along roof tops and power lines. Humans, however, are a different matter. Negotiating traffic on foot is like running a gauntlet. I found that the right thing to do is not to speed up, as that will only encourage the driver to do the same, but to take your time.

Being an engineer, the power lines attracted my attention. The wiring is so haphazard that it looks like a rat's nest. While touring Old Delhi in a Rickshaw, I worried one of the electric wires would drop down, and electrocute somebody. But like so much else in India, though it appeared to be disorganized, it worked.

While the streets are generally safe, and I walked alone on several occasions, be forewarned that the street hawkers can be relentless and aggravating. The late Peter Drucker once said that the role of modern marketing is to know your customer and tend his need so well as to make personal selling unnecessary. The street hawkers have not gotten the word. Nonetheless, I did buy a few things from them, so I have to confess “personal selling” does still work.

In Delhi, we saw a long line of street protesters carrying placards demanding that something be done about the job situation. The demonstrators were quite peaceful, and despite the huge number, which poses the danger of degenerating into a mob, we never felt unsafe.

Our village visits were charming and unique experiences. In one village, we walked through a typical home, which was very basic. The kids are always smiling, curious about us. One bedroom slept eight males of the household. Eight people. Count you blessings!

At night, local villagers entertained us with a dance by the fireside, using drums, small cymbals, and basic instruments. They played well into the night. Many families cannot afford TVs, so the villagers entertain themselves with their own performances. Maybe this helps account for their intellectual skills and resourcefulness we've seen in engineering and other fields?

One practical lesson I’ve learned from my experience in India is to be less concerned about nicks, dents, and chipped paint on my personal possessions. East Indians live with imperfections in their material possessions, homes and vehicles that would drive the average American perfectionist to a heart attack. I think they’re on to something. Better to lighten up, and live.

I went in late November and December. The weather was very nice, and I don't think there was anytime we saw rain.

The Heart of India trip is not for someone who pines for haute culture. This is an emerging markets nation with a young population and a hopeful economic future. It became clear that while that future is promising there will be bumps and dips along the way.

As I say, the thing I appreciated most were the authentic experiences, rather than the touristy landmarks. Like everyone who goes there, I have my pictures of the Taj, myself in the foreground. To see it is a duty in life. But I discovered there is so much more to India that fascinates.

Namaste!

Traveler: Edward from Harvey, LA traveled on November 25, 2009

Our Heart of India trip in November, 2009, provided so many and diverse experiences that it's difficult to describe them briefly.

Of course, seeing the Taj Mahal was the highlight of the trip. The Taj Mahal is truly as beautiful and impressive as we expected. Throughout the trip, through there was trash strewn about, there was not the pollution we had feared, probably because many of the vehicles use cleaner burning fuel.

There were so many sights that were impressive--the Amber and Agra Forts, the Qutb Minar, the Jantar Mantar at Jaipur, the erotic temples of Khajuraho, cremations and sunrise on the Ganges at Varanasi, AND, seeing TWO beautiful tigers in Ranthambhore National Park as well as the many other animals and birds.

During the main trip we had so many modes of transportation--bus, train, plane, jeep, rickshaw, camel and the 'home made' vehicle powered by a two-cylinder engine. The rickshaw ride through the crowded Chandni Chowk bazaar in Delhi was an unforgettable experience with all the people, cows, rickshaws, motorcycles, 'tuk tuks' (auto rickshaws), etc. giving way without 'road rage' but with ample use of horns!

While traveling through the farming areas we observed ladies in beautiful saris manually weeding the mustard and rice fields, tilling being done with yoked oxen and tractors, and one place we saw irrigation using an ancient Persian water wheel.

We enjoyed visits to the Saini Adarsh Vidhya Mandir Primary School, the Dastkar Ranthambhore women's cooperative, and the home hosted visits where we had the opportunity to talk with the Indian people, especially the home visit with a retired Army officer and family near Agra.

Because of limited lung capacity, we did not take the pretrip to Bhutan, but we did enjoy the post extension trip to Kerala.
While traveling the many waterways of Kerala we observed everyday life along the rivers and canals seeing the many duck farms, rice harvesting, and the different methods of fishing and harvesting coconuts, as well as seeing the people brushing their teeth, bathing, and doing laundry in the river or canal.

India has a very rich cultural heritage but is young in independence. The country needs much improvement in its infrastructure and government. It was amazing to observe how happy the people are despite their poverty and lack of advantages. During the trip we never saw a vehicle accident despite all the congested traffic with hardly any traffic controls. The contrast between the main trip and the Kerala extension was evident, because Kerala's population has a higher percentage of literacy.

Our excellent trip leader, Mandeep Aroroa, added so many 'discoveries' to the itinerary so we learned much about India--the many religions, the caste system, the arranged marriages, and we even visited a cow ashram where we learned that medicine is made from cow urine. Even though one of our tour members sustained a broken ankle, suitable arrangements were made by the Trip Leader and OAT so that she could continue to enjoy her trip.

Thanks again to OAT for making our trip to India such a memorable experience!!

Traveler: Howard and Sibyl from Mattoon, IL traveled on November 10, 2009

We have taken 10 wonderful OAT trips. In the past, when asked to chose my favorite, I always had a hard time picking one. From now on that answer will be easy - INDIA. It was without a doubt the most interesting trip we’ve ever taken. When we scheduled a 25-day trip, I thought that might be too long, but when it was time to return home, I could hardly believe the trip was finished. We had done a lot of research on India - reading books and watching movies and documentaries - and were well-prepared as far as what to expect in India. Even so, there were sights in India that were both far worse and also more splendid than we had imagined. India is a country that must be experienced, and you will have a different outlook on life after that experience.

We began with the pre-trip to Bhutan, an experience not to be missed. The country was even more beautiful than we had expected, with views of the Himalayas, lush, green countryside, and deep valleys with high green hills. The people were very friendly, and it was fun to see them in their native dress and also to see the typical Bhutanese architecture. Our guide, Karchung, did an excellent job of teaching us about life in Bhutan and taking advantage of unscheduled opportunities to experience some of that life. Two highlights were a chance meeting with the 4th Queen of Bhutan, and a brief conversation with her, and an encounter with the King, where he bowed to my husband.

Then came the chaos of India - what a contrast! We loved every bit of it - the insane traffic in the cities, the contrast between the litter on the streets and the women in their beautiful saris, and the interesting aromas - even the constant honking of the horns, which after awhile seemed like the music of India. There were the nerve-wracking rides in rickshaws, the dodging around cows and water buffalo, and the constant hassle of beggars and hawkers. All put together, it was life in India. While we travel to see sights like the Taj Mahal and other famous tourist spots, our main focus is to see and experience life that is different from ours. Nowhere has that contrast been greater than in India.

OAT had warned travelers to India that there would be bumpy roads, flight delays, long days on the bus, beggars and filth, and the possibility of some inconveniences in a few hotels. The hotels that OAT were provided were much more than adequate. Most were quite nice, and we encountered none of the possible inconveniences like no electricity or hot water. We especially enjoyed the hotel near the Ranthambore Nature Reserve. We had an excellent guide, Ajay Dudi, who made this trip fun, as well as keeping us well informed on every aspect of the trip and on schedule. He didn’t miss an opportunity for us to have unscheduled stops that looked interesting.

So many experiences on the trip were outstanding. We loved seeing the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort in Agra and the Amber Fort in Jaipur. Staying in the OAT tented camp was fun, especially the camel ride. The Chandela
temples were an eye-opener. The rickshaw rides got you up close and personal with the Indian traffic. The highlight was experiencing Varanasi. Sitting in the boat and seeing the sunrise on the Ganges was incredible. I almost had to pinch myself to believe I was really there. Seeing the Ganga Aarti ceremony and the cremation site at night, and then watching life along the river the next morning really gave one a feeling for life in India.

There’s a lot to see in India, but only so much you can take in on one trip. This trip has left me with a strong desire to return to India and visit other places. I highly recommend this trip to anyone with an adventurous spirit and a willingness to accept a way of life so different from ours.

Traveler: Patricia & William from Kingwood, TX traveled on October 28, 2009

First, I want to tell you why we travel. Of course we love to see sights that we have read about for years. But the main reason we travel is to experience other cultures and to meet and interact with the people we meet. OAT allows us to do exactly that by having home hosted meals and in some cases, overnight stays with families. As far as we are concerned, there can be no monetary value put on this experience.

On all our OATGCT trips, the benefit from our experiences is way above the cost we spent for the trip….and India was no exception.

Even though India is becoming a “modern” country with lots of international business ventures, it is still a Third World county. Thus, we expected to encounter situations that might be contrary to our normal way of life.

We did our homework before the trip. We read a couple of historical books as well as several guide books. We knew the trip would be more challenging than other trips we had taken. OAT even made it very clear that we would possibly experience travel delays, long bus rides, and accommodations that might not be what we were used to in the US. To us, that is part of the adventure.

Now for the trip.

We took the pre-trip to Bhutan. Since Bhutan allows only a limited number for tourists in its country each year, we jumped at the opportunity to experience this unique country.

The people were fantastic and some of the friendliest we have ever met on our travels. The scenery was almost indescribable. We had great weather and blue skies the entire time we were there. We had a great tour leader, Kerchung, which took every opportunity to give us experiences not on the itinerary.

We saw a couple of archery contests, the national sport of Bhutan, and a festival that had dancers in various animal like costumes. As we were leaving the festival, we were awarded a surprise visit by the Queen as she arrived to visit it. The men removed there hats, and no pictures were taken. She took time to speak to us and ask where we were from. Later on in the trip, we saw the King enter a temple to take his prayers. You can’t put a price on an experience like that!

I was unable to make the hike to the Tigers Nest. Instead, my wife and I spent a couple of hours with 3 young girls selling crafts to the hikers. We initially sat near them along a small creek. Soon, one of them approached us and offered us hot buttered tea. We graciously accepted. Soon we talking about our mutual families and viewed some pictures on their cell phones of their boyfriends! Sure, we missed seeing the Tigers Nest up close, but had a most memorable time visiting with these lovely young girls…an experience that we would not have missed for the world.

India was an assault on the senses. OAT and the guidebooks told us what to expect, but to experience was way beyond our expectations. The poverty, the pollution, the garbage, the beggars, and the cows were more than we expected. It was something completely foreign to us. It was hard for us to understand, but something we had to accept. This is India.

The people we met along the trip were very gracious. They love to have their pictures taken, especially the children. We visited an OAT sponsored school and saw the kids studying in conditions we would consider very poor. But they were happy and eager to show us what they were learning. My wife spent most of her time at the school “teaching” a class and interacting with the teacher and students. No value can be put on that experience.

I won’t go in to a lot of details about the sights. Most of the reviewers have already done that. We enjoyed the shopping and took the opportunity to purchase a couple of rugs from OAT designated vendors. We enjoyed the bus rides through the countryside. We loved the buildings, the palaces, the forts, and even the camel ride. We even enjoyed the harried rickshaw rides through the narrow streets of the cities. We were amazed at the marble inlay work at many of the palaces. Of course we loved seeing the Taj Mahal and getting our picture taken in front of it. However, both my wife and I think that Varanasi summed up India as a whole and was a highlight of our trip.

Seeing the throng of people at the evening ceremony along the Ganges was overwhelming. The sunrise boat ride on the Ganges the next morning was the highlight. To see the Hindu faithful coming to bathe in the river, to offer prayers, and to see the funeral pyres burning is beyond words. No matter how poor, whether they sleep on the street at night or in a small hut, they have their Hindu faith that seems to be the overriding force in their lives. I think that their faith must motivate them to continue their daily lives no matter how poor their personal situation is. To us it summed up our trip and impression of India and its people.

If you’re thinking about going, don’t let the somewhat troubling sights I have mentioned deter you. You won’t regret it. India is an experience for the senses and has to be seen in person. Any traveler that does not leave India feeling a bit changed hasn’t taken the trip to heart. It is a trip we won’t soon forget. Oh, I can’t forget to mention our Trip Leader, Ajay. He was fantastic and showed us sights beyond what was on the itinerary. He even arranged for our wives to wear saris at the farewell dinner….a nice touch to a great trip.

Traveler: James and Polly from Houston, TX traveled on October 28, 2009

Like all my other 15 trips with GCTOAT, I evaluated this trip in the context of the level of effort required by the trip (very substantial in this case), its costs, and length of the trip as compared to the rewards experienced by taking the trip – basically a cost benefits analysis.

During my just completed exhausting 30 day trip of Heart of India including the pre- and post- extensions, I became an increasingly unhappy camper primarily because of issues I perceived with the itinerary and the scheduling and the air connections, but also because of the less than stellar quality of some of the hotels (e.g., no hot water in showers) and restaurants that seemed to have been selected for suspicious reasons and not the best interests of us travelers. So many days were spent riding in a bus, or waiting for another late plane in one of the shabby frantic overcrowded airports, basically losing a whole days in transit. The Excellent Program Directors (PD) we had on each leg of the journey valiantly tried to overcome the limitations and flaws of the itineraries, but never quite succeeded.

However in the time that I have been back I have reviewed my notes and the details of the trip, and have conducted a detailed research in three different guide books, have conferred with an acquaintance who took this trip with OAT about 4 years ago and thought it fabulous (more on his views later) and have revised upward my overall evaluations of the trip as a whole, and the three parts individually from FAIR- to something a bit higher. This reassessment is based in part on the fact that some of the sitesexperiences on the itinerary are recommended in the guide books as well, even though I would continue to regard them as mediocre andor a waste of time and energy; at least what we saw of them. What is even more disappointing is that it could be a truly fabulous trip if a few seemingly modest changes were made.

A simple summary of what will be covered below in detail is that of the 28 World Heritage Sites that India currently has (currently the most of any country in the world) , the tour visited only 5 of them (Qutub Minar in Delhi, Agra Fort in Agra, Fatehpur Sikri near Agra, the Taj Mahal in Agra, and the temples in Khajuraho), and one of those had been deleted from the trip itinerary even though it had been listed catalog as a site to be visited. Our PD fortunately elected to reinstate that visit. Additionally, the renown Kathakali dance performance during the post extension in Kerala can only be classified as a “Peak Experience” (PE) that should not be missed. Unfortunately OAT classified that dance as an optional tour and could easily be missed by travelers unfamiliar with the dance and its significance. All this might sound OK, but remember that spectacular as these 6 things are, 31very fatiguing days and thousands of dollars were expended experiencing them, and that Delhi had 2 more WHSs – Humayun’s Tomb which was inexcusably not on the itinerary and the Red Fort which I have been told is currently closed – which we did not get to see, in part because we had to visit a silk rug company and listen to a presentation and sales pitch, and go to a home hosted dinner. I believe the OAT priorities in this instance as well as others require serious rethinking!

For the purpose of this review I have organized dealing first with the basic trip, and then the pre- and post- separately.

Main Tour Heart Of India:

The Crown Plaza Hotel in Delhi was the best hotel of the whole trip in that it had ample hot water, provided shampoos and the like, was cool enough with AC, had adequate room lighting, fast elevators that required no waiting, and was near some local shops and markets. Every hotel thereafter was missing one or more of these “essentials”. The Delhi experience was generally good, but we should never have left Delhi without seeing the other open WHS, even if that meant spending an additional day in Delhi (although much of the afternoon of our second Delhi day was free). Incidently, the rug company personnel were rude and pushy. In addition to missing Humayun’s Tomb , there are more than a dozen other sites that one should see such as the highly recommended Hazrat Nizamuddin Darga and the Svetamber Jain Temple and some museums.

An aside relative to Delhi is that traffic is horrendous all the time. Seemingly everything requiring the use of a bus will take 45 minutes to an hour just to get where you are trying to go. Also, Delhi streets, like all the roads and streets in India, are very bumpy. One can get really beat up, particularly in the back of the bus. Related to the subject of traffic is the way those in India drive. I quipped that when the PD was handing out some snacks to munch on because of a late lunch he should also have handed out “Depends” to each member of our party. But crazy as the drivers (trucks, buses, cars, rickshaws, bicycles, etc.) are, they must be skilled because one sees relatively few accidents, and one quickly becomes desensitized to the crazy traffic.

While Jaipur is on most tour itineraries, I remain wondering why that might be so, since most of what we saw there was in no way a peak experience. The Amber Fort is interesting, but it does not warrant the 2+ hours we spent there. Two other forts are recommended in the guide books, but we did not get to visit them. The Jantar Mantar is an observatory including some very large sundials and was interesting. However, the day we were there it rained thus detracting from the experience since seeing the sun on the sundials would have been most interesting. The Palace of the Winds is almost a joke since it is a facade on a building to make it look like an impressive palace. Our tour spent a total of about 10 minutes there taking a photo or two, and that is about what the place is worth. The City Palace looks good on paper (and in the guide books), but is really several poor quality museums plus having to sit through the sales pitch from a local artist who was not very good. We also then had to go to a jeweler’s and listen to a decent presentation followed by 2+ hours of people trying to make up their minds whether or not to buy one of the very pricey baubles. We were then taken back to the hotel where the balance of the afternoon was wasted.

All this might have been palatable if done in one day, but we spent two full days in Jaipur when at least one of those days would have been better spent in Delhi. The Hotel Paradise in Jaipur was a below average hotel with problematic availability of hot water, very slow tiny elevators that we constantly had to wait for one that was not filled, edible but mediocre restaurant, and inadequate room lighting. Plus it was far away from anything.

The game park Ranthambore is also on many guide book itineraries, and does have potential as a stop. However, once again the itineraryscheduling was flawed. The late afternoon we arrived there was an optional tour to the fort and temples and ruins at the top of a mountain adjacent to the game park. The fort and ruins were so impressive that they could be described as one of our India Peak Experiences, and should not have been an optional tour. Furthermore, the tour was undersold by the PD so not everyone took advantage of it. I consider seeing this fort one of the high points of my India experience. We were late starting back and had to come back in the near dark, but it was because of the late hour that we encountered a tiger on the road marking her territory for perhaps 15 minutes of view time. We also saw a large very rare porcupine on the road back as well. That was the only tiger seen by any in our full group during our stay at the park. The early morning game drive the next morning was OK, but we saw no tigers, leopards, or bear. The afternoon game drive departed at 2:30PM, which according to the naturalist assigned to our jeep was way too early by maybe 2 hours. I have no idea why the second game drive was not scheduled for later. We saw very little and it was very hot. Supposedly, with two game drives tiger sightings are fairly common for most visitors. However, if a tiger sighting is really important to a visitor, then limiting a visit to two game drives in a single day should be replaced with game drives over 2 or 3 days.

As a serious photographer, I travel substantially to take photos, and shlep a lot of equipment with me to cover all situations. The optional tour to the fort was supposed to get back to the hotel much earlier while it was still daylight. Hence, I left my big flash and a longer faster lens back at the hotel, and was unprepared to get a decent photo of the tiger. The message here is that India is full of surprises and that one needs to be prepared for the unexpected which I was not, even though I had established with the PD that tiger sighting was very possible on this tour since it was adjacent to the game park.

The Nahargarh Hotel at Ranthambore was, like some other hotels we encountered, fabulous looking with superficial elegance while failing to deliver basic essentials. Dining was primarily on a super long table that all guests sat at. The food was essentially little better than edible. At no time did my room have hot water, no matter how long the water ran. The water was not warm either, but is best described as tepid. The doors were modeled after doors from the mid 19th century in India and were double doors that were secured by a padlock and key from either the inside or outside. What a pain that was. Furthermore, the doors did not seal well and as a result each night the rooms were invaded by thousands of small black bugs, which could be found each morning lining the room’s baseboards dead. Kind of disgusting, really. And, for us and others in our party there were some real problems getting laundry back from the hotel staff.

The Aagman India Camp was actually much better than I expected it to be, since the tents were spacious and had an effective kind of air conditioning. Nevertheless, it was an unnecessary stopover that did not contribute much to our overall India experience. The time spent there would have been better spent elsewhere on our journey.

As indicated earlier, our PD reinstated the stop, which OAT had removed from the itinerary, at the fabulous Ghost City aka Fatehpur Sikri. With the Ghost City plus the Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal, Agra was great. For me the Taj was truly spectacular, greatly exceeding my expectations. After reading during the last year or two that the Taj was being renovated, I expected to see at least some exterior scaffolding, but was pleasantly surprised to see none. On the negative side was first the fact that virtually all the reflecting pools were empty of water (resulting in no classic photos of the Taj and its reflections), presumably for restoration purposes; and secondly, the short tour which OAT and other tour groups have always made to the other side of the river so that one could look back at the Taj had been eliminated by OAT, much to my chagrin. Also, Agra has other highly recommended sites that our single day (2 nights) precluded our seeing. Once again, a great highly recommended location was seriously shortchanged on time due, in my opinion, to itinerary and scheduling flaws.

The hotel and its restaurant were outstanding, with the only fault being that the hotel was not near anything. However, a McDonald’s was within a 30 minute walk.

The transit to Khajuraho was onerous, to say the least, and took nearly the entire day. The WHS temples at Khajuraho would ordinarily have made such a transit worth it if one could have spent an entire day or at least most of a day exploring the many temples. Unfortunately, OAT scheduling once again reared its mindless head and scheduled a midday airplane departure, thus truncating temple viewing. Adding insult was the fact that the plane was [apparently] characteristically late departing [actually, our PD said we were lucky since the plane is sometimes cancelled]. And you have not seen chaos ever until you experience the Khajuraho airport where multiple tour groups are simultaneously trying to bring luggage through a single door into the terminal to be x-rayed where there is almost no space for the luggage. It took our PD nearly 30 minutes to get our checked luggage into the terminal to be x-rayed. It is the worst chaos I have ever encountered anywhere.

We finally arrived at our last stop at Varanasi. The first evening was an optional trip to see the Bhraman priests do the evening ceremony to put the Ganges to sleep. This trip, which started with a very long (20+ minutes?) frantic rickshaw ride through dark very crowded streets with spots of shops occasionally lighting things up, was absolutely essential to the India experience and should have been a built-in and not optional. It is to OAT’s discredit that they made it optional. Regardless, it was chaotic but exciting and well worth paying for. They tell you to take your camera, but it takes near pro gear to properly handle the near darkness of the evening’s events (rickshaw rides, boat, etc.). Unfortunately, I remembered it being described in the catalog (I am looking at the catalog as I write this) as a sunset cruise (which means daylight to me), and once again did not bring the lenses and other photo equipment I needed to handle the lighting (both of the rickshaw ride and once we arrived at the river), all of which was dark well after the sun had set. By the time I realized it was going to be too dark for what I had with me I was already on the bus away from the hotel. It would have helpful if the PD had described the lighting conditions more precisely, but I still must assume much responsibility here as well. Any photographerreader contemplating going to India and doing the night ceremony on the Ganges can contact me at z_q-g.-u@cox.net for further information.

Rising before dawn the next day and again going to the Ganges is a must-do as well. This too started with a whirlwind rickshaw ride (much shorter ride this morning) through dark streets less crowded than the previous evening, arriving at riverside just as the sky really began to lighten before the sun appeared above the horizon. Both these excursions must be classified as not-to-miss Peak Experiences. After the morning at the Ganges, we spent the rest of the day looking at some of the other sites in Varanasi, including a small but really excellent Buddhist museum and a temple complex. Our local guide in Varanasi was excellent. Leaving Varanasi via plane is also chaotic by normal standards, but paled compared to the Khajuraho experience.

The PD for the main tour warrants a special note for a simple but valuable innovation. After the luggage had been loaded on the bus and counted, he always asked everyone on the bus to indicate with their fingers the number of bags they had loaded on the bus (i.e., checked baggage), not counting any carry-on stuff they might have. He is the first and only PD I have had that used this system, that at least once caught a problem before the bus left the hotel. Kudos to him. All OATGCT PDs should be required to use this system.

I would note at this point that the similar tours described in the guidebooks all went clockwise, while the OAT tour went counter clockwise. While this may not seem important, it could be that better airline connections, etc. as well as a better scheduled itinerary could have been realized by going clockwise. As we did it, those ending the tour had to return to Delhi, arriving in the early evening and then a few hours later going back to the airport to catch their midnight flights back to the US. Those of us continuing to the post extension also had to go back to Delhi and the next morning catching the plane south.

A better plan would have been to spend a final day in Delhi touring those sites previously missed, and not forcing exhausted travelers to spend a long day getting back to Delhi only to have to get on an overseas flight just a few hours later.

If I return to India, which I likely will, I would not take the OAT tour given the issues that exist. Nor would I readily recommend this particular tour to others. OTOH, this does not mean that any other available tours are any better, if as good, particularly at the price point of the OAT tour. The reader will have to make his own decision regarding this tour, competing tours, or a more expensive customized tour.

As alluded to earlier, I will note here that an acquaintance of mine, named Sam here for the sake of anonymity, who had taken this trip several years ago had an outstanding PD who was able to overcome basically the same itinerary and fill in the many low spots with great activities and experiences, leading my well traveled friend to call his India experience one the best trips he had ever taken. In response to the early draft of this less than glowing critique that I shared with him, Sam’s response was how could I be so negative about what he considered one of the great trips he had ever taken. We went back and forth with discussion via emails until my traveling companion pointed out that since Sam first described the trip to me when we first encountered each other on a previous OAT trip, he had always said how exhausting India had been and that it had literally taken him many months to recover. Sam and his wife are a few years younger than Pamela and I, and they took the trip several years ago while even younger still. While there were certainly times when Pamela and I were tired, as after a long bus ride, at no time during or after the 31 day trip would we have described ourselves as exhausted. How could it be that Sam and his wife were so exhausted while Pamela and I who were many years older at the time of our trip were not?

After discussing this further with both Pamela and Sam we have concluded that Sam’s trip was simply not the same as ours. Even following essentially the same itinerary (only exception was that due to severe fog they took a 11 hour bus ride from Khajuraho to Varanasi which Sam found to be a fabulous experience seeing India living by the roadside) and schedule, his PD was apparently one of the outstanding PDs (in our 16 trips we have had 2-3 PDs that rose far above excellent to the outstanding level) who filled in the all-too-many low boring valleys between the WHSs and the few scheduled peak experiences with exciting enlightening and interesting activities, sites and discussions. There can be a tremendous difference in the trip experience provided by only an EX PD and an Outstanding one. Our valleys essentially remained unfilled if not downright empty.

I rated our PD (main trip) as excellent because he accomplished the itinerary and the other PD duties at an excellent level. But basically, if it was not on the list then not much was done. So I have concluded that the sporadic itinerary developed by OAT has many gaps (my original sense of the trip) which make the traveler’s India experience too dependent on the PDs to fill or not fill with interesting trip enhancing experiences. While GCTOAT no doubt seek to have the best PDs, building into the itinerary more of those trip enhancements, rather than leaving them to PD discretion, wouldshould result in more even trip experiences for us travelers. The limited space on the GCTOAT trip evaluation forms that everyone gets precludes decent informative feedback to OAT in this regard.


Bhutan Pre-Extension:

The country is a nice place to visit, but it really is not what most visitors have been led to expect from all the literature about it – at least in the areas visited following the OAT itinerary. I would not call it an idyllic Shangri La which is the way it is normally portrayed, but rather it is a emerging modernizing progressive country that is not that dissimilar from what one sees in rural Thailand or Viet Nam. Its main source of income is selling hydroelectrically produced power to India. The people are engaging and energetic, and not the aesthetic types implied by the Shangri La image.

There are no WHSs in Bhutan, nor are there any real peak experiences to be had. There are some nice stops on the itinerary but nothing terribly exciting. We arrived there the last week in Sept and despite what the temperature tables showed, it was very warm in the 80s during the day. Unfortunately none of the hotels we stayed in were air conditioned, which was what was needed. Just leaving the windows open did not get the rooms cool enough for comfortable sleep. The rooms were not posh, but they were comfortable and there was always hot water. In the hotel in Punakha the laundry came back late and still wet!

Ordinarily, I would recommend selecting this pre-extension, even at the rather steep price, if it were not so difficult to get there and back, at least the way OAT sends you through Calcutta both ways. Once our plane landed in Delhi, we had a 3 hour layover before the 2 hour flight to Calcutta. That extra 5 hours on top of what could already be an immense journey from the US west coast can push total transit time to over 30 hours or more. The next day one is taken on a city tour of Calcutta, a city which has very little to offer to the tourist except filth, noise and unbelievable traffic congestion. Both Calcutta and its noisy inefficient dirty airport are best avoided.

At any rate, the following morning one must go through the onerous task of getting through the Calcutta airport security (you will learn that all AA batteries must be removed from all devices and stored separately in checked luggage) and then finally boarding the plane for the approximately 2 hour flight to Bhutan, where you will arrive at what is probably correctly called the world’s second prettiest airport.

A personal anecdote from my Calcutta experience is that when we returned to Calcutta after Bhutan (we were not routed through Nepal like both the catalog and the trip book said – had to re-suffer the grief of the Calcutta international and domestic airports), OAT had issued a ticket in the name of a person who had cancelled her India trip, but did not have a ticket for me to get from Calcutta back to Delhi. Fortunately, the local OAT representative was able to correct this situation, but I was getting very nervous of being stuck in Calcutta (I think the term “Black Hole of Calcutta” should be applied to the entire city) while the rest of the group went onto Delhi and the rest of the tour.

The Bhutan PD was excellent. The food was only OK; the hotels were only OK.

Post Extension The South of India:

This is a pleasant extension which provides the traveler with 3 things. First, it exposes the traveler to Southern India and gives him a glimpse into what the new 2010 Southern India trip might be like. Secondly, the houseboat cruising is an interesting experience, but it does go on too long. The day of arrival you are on the boat before a late lunch. Two nights on board and 1.5 days of cruising were more than adequate. My acquaintance Sam said on his trip he and his wife needed all the days on the boat to regain some strength, but even the happy campers in our group felt that the last day was not needed since cruising had become boring with the redundant landscapes. There was, however, some brief excitement on the last day when our houseboat was struck by another houseboaat causing some real but minor damage. Incidently, our cabins on our boats were air conditioned, which was a very pleasant surprise.

The third thing is perhaps the most important. That is the optional Kathakali Dance Performance which at least several of us felt was one of the high points of the entire India experience. The other itinerary stops were not particularly interesting and were more filler than instructional. For these 3 reasons I would recommend this extension. Incidently, our hotel after the houseboat cruise was the Le Meridian which was an excellent hotel in all respects (except not being close to anything).

My own recommendation would be to eliminate the last day of cruising and only cruise 1.5 days, and then leave Kerala a day early. When we landed in Mumbai we were provided with a decent but short whirlwind tour of Mumbai before leaving for the airport later that night for the flights back to the US. However by getting to Mumbai a day early, a group could have 1.5 days of more in-depth touring of Mumbai which has much to offer in the way of interesting sights.

LAUNDRY TIP: For travelers who do some or all of their own laundry, most of the hotels we stayed in had no stoppers in the sink, so bring one of the stopper mats with you. Most of the hotels seemed to have gone out of their way not to provide anywhere to hang laundry to dry. I have always carried a piece of very thin rope about 20' long for this purpose, but in one or two places there was no place to even hang the rope. In one of those hotels after the clothes had stopped dripping I hung them on hangers from the ceiling air vents where they dried quickly.

Traveler: John from Springfield, VA traveled on September 21, 2009

FAREWELL TO INDIA
NOVEMBER 2009

We crept stealthily into India in the middle of the night
Greeted by Karni who would become our bright shining knight

We witnessed time zones in old and new Delhi collide
We emerged from the subway in old Delhi for a tumultuous rickshaw ride

We witnessed the evolving cultures, often a paradox
And carefully guarded our personal pair of temple sox

In an extraordinary moving visit, with great pride
We stood were Gandhi lived and we stood where Gandhi died

A joyous experience at a Sikh temple to cleanse our inner beings of all wrong
Hari Krishna and Hari Rama are no longer just a song

On the road to Jaipur we lunched at a palace fit for a raj
Followed by a village market with its vendor’ chaotic and aromatic collage

We delighted in a Bollywood chick flick after catching a quick dish
As we picked out a word here and there in glorious Hinglish

Then out of the blue, without any interference
Karni magically arranged for the king to make a special OAT appearance

In Jaipur we were engulfed by the local market’s shopping din
While the smells and the people welcomed us in

From our white palace at Rathambore park, where we dined and slept on royal vacation
With our good Karma, our morning safari, through the rain and the mud, led us to a beautiful tiger elation

We visited a Grand Circle school with children responsible for India’s tomorrow plans
Their heartwarming smiles and their keen eyes told us that India’s future is in good hands

We froze our butts off in tents that Karni generously referred to as a cottage
Turn up the heat, and crank up the fire, we really needed more wattage

Ahh, the Tag, what a magnificent site
With its spectacular marble gleaming so white

After our trip to Agra and our train ride ended so well
We rode five hours, to see some porno, on the bumpy road from Hell

And just about the time we thought we couldn’t take in more
We arrived at Varanasi with the Ganges waiting at our door

A rickshaw ride through traffic, evening prayers, funeral biers, and sunrise at the Ganges provided our final mind overload
The traffic, hordes of people, sounds, smells, and vibrations readied our senses to explode

It was more than just good karma that brought us all together and provided Karni as our guide
For this wondrous exploration of what surrounds us and what our hearts hold inside

Yes, we traveled over India’s roads and together traveled across all the junctions
Providing daily updates on each other’s bodily functions

To the man who brought this adventure to life with its rich and fragrant wealth
Tonight we’ll life our glasses to Karni and wish him continued good karma and good health

The chaos, the people, the rickshaws, the cattle, the smells and the spices exhortation
No camera can capture this adventurous and glorious exploration

So as we toast Karni, a true gentleman, a great trip leader, who brought India alive and resolute
We’ll lift our glasses high to Karni, India and each other, with a heartfelt “Salute”

Traveler: Eugene from Santa Clarita, CA traveled on November 09, 2009

Our OATS trip to India was a rich and satisfying adventure. We will never forget the images, sounds, tastes, smells, and feelings we experienced. The temples, fortresses, palaces, ancient ruins, and Taj Mahal we visited witness to the amazing cultural history of India. When combined with the collage of village life, colorful markets, teeming cities, sari clad women, meeting students, rickshaw rides through narrow streets, pastoral agricultural scenes, home visits, and a camel ride, this trip really reveals the "heart of India." We found people friendly and gracious. Bindu, our trip leader, was excellent, and went the "second mile" to enhance our experience and comfort.

The city of Varanasi and the boat ride on the Ganges River were impressive, and helped us capture a sense of Hindu tradition and spirituality. The time at Sarnath gave us new understanding of Buddhism's roots. Our discussions about religion, family life, history, politics, and marriage customs were engaging. The Taj Mahal was unforgetable as it glistened in the morning sunshine.

This was not an easy trip, nor for the faint-hearted, but it is well worth the effort. Even with my wife's arthritic knee, and my leg brace, we managed to see most everything we wanted to see. In this day of globalization, more of us from the West need to experience developing and historic nations like India. And be sure to take your camera!

Traveler: John E from Bakersfield, CA traveled on November 04, 2009

What an adventure! The sounds, smells and sights are still with me. I am still processing the whole experience. I wasn't expecting the people to be so friendly. Our wonderful guide, Daisy, said on the very first day that India is full of contradictions and paradoxes. Poverty and wealth co-exist right next to each other. As soon as I returned home, I missed the beautiful smiles and colorful fabrics from India. The food was plentiful. Lots of rice, vegetables, chicken and flavorful sauces. Some were spicy hot, but most were just flavorful. Some of us on my tour were the tasters and would let others know the spicy hot level of each dish. I entertained my fellow-travelers when I bit into what I thought was a crisp green bean. It was an incredibly hot pepper! We all got a great laugh over my mistake. I will confess, I did miss beef! Can you get a good beer in India? You betcha.
My favorite was the Kingfisher brand.

Most of the terrain was flat. If you are wobbly on your feet, take a cane, because there are many steps without handrails.
Don't forget your telephoto camera lens.
You will need it on the ride in the Tiger
Park. We did not see a tiger this time, but we saw lots of other animals and birds. I took some very comfortable rubber sandals that I was able to wash every night in the shower; you will be walking often on unpaved surfaces.

There are lots of wonderful things to buy such as carpets, jewelry, fabric and linens. Take an extra collapsible bag in your suitcase for your treasures. When the vendors approach you on the street, they start at one price. The closer you get to the bus, the lower the price. It's great fun to bargain.

The hotels were all very modern and clean. It doesn't cost much to have your clothes cleaned. I enjoyed swimming in all of the pools. I even went swimming in the canals by jumping off the houseboat in Southern India. It was so refreshing!

There were many highlights on this adventure. My favorite was the sunrise and sunset on the Ganges. I can't put it into words. You just have to experience it. If you are interested, check out my blog to see see India through my eyes.

http:kathleenbroseinindia.blogspot.com

Go to India. You won't regret it.

Traveler: Kathleen from Seattle, WA traveled on October 04, 2009

India is a land of contrasts---from the filth on the streets to the beauty of the Taj Mahai and Ranthambore National Park. It is a culture like we have never experienced before. The Hindu religion seems to be their life---from the rituals along the River Ganges, to the sacred cows and everything in between. We really enjoyed experiencing the daily life of the Indians. We had an excellent tour director, Kapil Rohatgi, and he went out of his way to expose us to many extra adventures that weren't included in the itinerary. The longer we’ve been home, and the more we look at our pictures and talk about our experiences, the more special the trip becomes.

As per OAT standards we saw everything that was outlined in the itinerary. The hotels were very nice, with our favorite being The Nahargarh Hotel near the Ranthambore National Park. It was a huge palace and everything about it was splendid.

In our opinion the itinerary was done to perfection. But, rather than focus on the things in the itinerary I want to mention a few of the things that had a profound impact upon us as we witnessed the daily life of the Indians.

We saw the Faces of India..... we saw the beautiful, the happy, the wrinkled, the puzzled, the pleased, the curious. One of my favorite pictures is a close-up of a beautiful bride. Our very excellent tour director, Kapil, stopped along the road because he wanted to see why so many people were gathered. Well, it was for a wedding. The colorfully dressed ladies in their beautiful sarees gathered around the bride certainly made for excellent photographs.

We saw the Sacred Cows of India.....oh my goodness the cows were everywhere! At home here in Kansas our cows become spooked if they should get out of the pasture. Well, not in India. You might find them laying in the middle of a six lane highway, or just wandering through the traffic, or in the market place stealing fruit from the stands, or jerking the clothing off of a rack at a store.

We saw the Laundry Service of India..... I suppose these poor people get paid 3 cents a day. We visited a laundry service place and got to observe the whole process. From beating the clothing on a rock, to uniquely hanging the clothes on the line to dry, to seeing the huge coal iron. They literally put hot coal in the iron and use it. The laundry place puts a whole new meaning to the conveniences of washing we have here at home.

We saw the Modes of Transportation in India......as Kapel told us “there is always room for one more.” The public buses would be filled beyond belief, but there was always room for more on the top. In the trucks going down the road it would look like whole communities were loaded up. I would have loved to have counted how many people were inside and hanging on the outside of little tuk-tuks. Not only are the modes of transportation crowded, the highways and bi-ways are equally crowded with everyone driving helter-skelter like maniacs. Even though there might be marked lanes on the roads…not to worry…just drive where ever you want, in any direction that you please and play “chicken” with the guy that you are about to have a head-on collision with. Don’t forget to add to the mix: a few camels pulling carts, an elephant or two, a herd of goats, cows sleeping in the road, a pig or four, a lady herding water buffalo to water, fifteen chickens and a rooster or two, a tractor pulling a wagon loaded with produce and all the neighbors, a cow walking along eating out of the back of a vegetable wagon, bicycles, a rickshaw, motorbikes, someone selling something, and men pulling rickshaws loaded to the sky with goods. We escaped with our lives on the highways and bi-ways of India. Oh dear, what an experience.

We saw the River Ganges of India......we arrived before daylight at the Ganges River in Varanasi, which is the Hindu holy city that is located on the sacred Ganges river. It is one of the oldest cities in the world, dating back over 4,000 years. I don’t think any trash has ever been picked up in that period of time either, and the river is supposed to be the most polluted river in the world. We arrived before daylight and boarded a boat. This was the perfect way to observe riverside temples, people taking a “holy” dip, people bathing in the river, some doing yoga, and others offering flowers to the river. But most importantly we got an up-close and personal look at the cremation site from our boat. What a vivid experience that was!

We also did the post-trip extension to the “South of India.” We all thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river in the nice bamboo boats. The river encompasses the life of the people that live on it. They wash their clothing in the river, they bathe in the river, they wash their dishes in the river. You name it, it is done in, around and through the river. As usual with O.A.T., Basheer was an excellent tour director in the South of India.

I have only described a few of the memories we have of this remarkable trip, comprised of monumental experiences that we never imagined we’d have the opportunity to encounter. Thanks O.A.T. and Kapil and Basheer for a wonderful “Heart of India” and "South of India" journey.

Traveler: Marilyn &Jim from Altoona, KS traveled on August 25, 2009

The heart of India trip well exceeded my expectations. This was my 2nd OAT trip and I'm hooked. This trip had lots of variety, temples, palaces,game drive- a little of everything. Sanjay our tour guide was the best. He included everyone and made everyone feel welcomed. OAT is lucky to have such a great guide. Khajuraho temples are fabulous- well worth the long drive to get there. The carvings are incredible, excellent craftmanship. The step wells of Abhaneri were also incredible. It is one of those wow moments when you see them. Taj Mahal of course was great. It was nice to get there before the crowds. Varanasi was a little smelly, with air pollution. Bring eye drops for your eyes. But seeing the cremations on the Ganges was a great experience. Ranthambone Palace was beautiful. It would be nice to have more time there to enjoy the atmosphere and the gardens. The game drive at Ranthambone National Park was lots of fun, very bumpy (wear a good sports bra). We got to watch a tiger stocking prey. The tiger walked right in front of our jeep. The OAT tented camp was really nice, like camping in luxury. They also had the best food there. All the staff in all the places we stayed were nice and friendly. Everyone spoke English so it was easy to communicate. India was a great experience. So much history and culture. Lots of colors everywhere. The women wore beautiful sori's, you never saw 2 the same. On the roads you never knew what you would see. Cows, camels, buses, bikes, cars all sharing the same roads. The driving is kind of scarry at times. Everyone drives wherever they want, no real lanes and they like to play chicken a lot. The roads are very bumpy. The food in India was ok-they seemed to always serve the same food, chicken mostly -almost no seafood. The main negative of the trip is the hauckers trying to sell you things. It is non stop. But Sanjay tried to shelter us a lot from them, which helped. All in all this trip was a great experience and I encourage everyone to go. It is an adventure of a life time.

Traveler: Denise from Sarasota, FL traveled on April 01, 2009

This was our first experience with OAT, and now we know what all the fuss was about. The small group size allowed our (very creative) tour manager to jump on any serendipitous opportunity that presented itself, and these (liike crashing a local wedding) often became high points of the trip.

On the subject of tour managers, we have come to expect excellence from GCT-OAT tour managers, but Karni stood out even in that exalted company. Again because of the small group size, he was able to cut-and-fit the activity schedule to take advantage of opportunities and mitigate the effects of the unavoidable mishaps like cancelled flights.

Pacing on this tour is very well thought out; you will never be bored, but you will also have the opportunity to take a break when you need one. The effect is not relaxing as you are moving around a lot, your senses are constantly over-whelmed (or at least thoroughly whelmed) by new sights, smells, and sounds, and the climate pretty much guarantees that Yankee Dogs like us will be pretty stressed by the heat. This experience is exciting, fascinating, mind-expanding, and not-to-be-missed, yes; but relaxing? No.

Food is, of course, subjective; we loved it, others didn't. All agreed, however, that it was an important part of the cultural experience. It seems that some degree of digestive upset is unavoidable. In our group it was pretty much universal, but mild for the most part and didn't put any significant damper on the fun.

Accommodation ranged from better-than-adequate at the OAT camp, to almost embarrassingly opulent (would you believe a Maharajah's palace?) at several of the hotels.

This trip provides many bona-fide opportunities to meet and talk with local folks in real life, in addition to the more contrived arranged events. The Indians we met were all very friendly and outgoing (ESPECIALLY kids), and, because we were often in small villages unused to tourist traffic, at least as interested to talk to us as we were to talk to them. To get a sense of it, imagine a group of Indian tourists walking through Mayberry, South Carolina.

The extension to the South is very much worth doing. It is an entirely different planet down there; everything is different. Languages, food, climate, landscape ... If you go home after the main trip you will miss out on a vivid demonstration of how widely India varies within her own borders.

My overall take is: If you are interested enough in India to be reading reviews of tours there, you should certainly make the investment of time, energy, and cash. Few things, in my experience, have paid such generous dividends.

Traveler: Josh from Dover Plains, NY traveled on April 29, 2009

Our arrival at our hotel in New Delhi was at 4:30 a.m., but nevertheless, we were greeted by elegantly robed staff with leis, a red bindi on our forehead (to represent our readiness to greet the day in a cleansed state) and fruit juice. This was to be done at each of our wonderful hotel stays, two of them in former maharaji's palaces..

Our guide, Karni, a 31-year old Indian from Jaipur, of the warrior caste, spoke idiomatic English and was a wonderful leader of our 13-member well-travelled group. At 2:00 p.m. we meet Karni, who has provided us with white long shirts to protect our clothing against the paint that might be thrown on us because we have arrived on Holi day, a day celebrated with paint throwing to mark us as blessed people with good hope for the future. Our commodious bus takes us to a nearby metro stop. The five-year old metro is very clean and modern. The security system is in operation here as in some of the hotels. We ride three stops on the Metro (there are five lines, one of which will go out to the airport soon) to the Charndni Chowk market exit. This market dates at least from 1850 and probably earlier; it played a part in two novels I read recently, one by a classic Indian novelist, Nirad Chaudhuri, and one by a current Indian-American, Anita Desai, with roots in Delhi. We navigate the narrow streets of Old Delhi, faced with rows of small shops devoted to one type of product, e.g. car parts, jewelry, outdoor barbers, clothing, in bicycle rickshaws. The streets are a little rough, but our drivers are skilled in avoiding people, cattle, dogs, and provide us a wonderful experience within the street scene.

We are then transported by our bus to the cremation and memorial site of Mahatma Gandhi. We have gone from hurly-burly to a very simple, quiet setting among much greenery, just as he wished. From there we go to the largest mosque in the world: Jama Marjad. It overlooks the Red Fort. There are copies of the Koran set among the alcoves for the visitors. We are given cotton robes and our faces are scrubbed to remove results of Holi Day as that is a Hindi ritual and would not be suitable for the Mosque. We return to our hotel via Embassy Road and a visit to the local restaurant, Laissez Faire. A beautiful full moon ends what has been a day filled with wonderful sensations.

The days to follow are as diverse as our first day: sight-seeing, several of the sights are UNESCO World Historical Sites,with guides unique to the area to supplement the excellent background and cultural history we receive from Karni, followed by lunches in a special setting, and visits to give us insight into the life of typical Indians.

I especially enjoyed home-hosted dinners. In Delhi, the family consisted of a 40-something woman, widowed after 26 years of an arranged marriage, and her son. Her father was a Harvard-educated English professor. She is a choclatier and food teacher. She has an 18-year old college freshman at home and an older son in the US in San Francisco, whom she and her younger son will visit this summer. The appetizers and dinner reflected her talents. The apartment was richly furnished and she and her son spoke English very well and we learned a lot about their lives. We made another home visit to an extended family (3 generations) in 3 linked homes in a quiet residential area of Jaipur where retired army men were offered army land to build on. The meal was similar to most of the other meals we have had: Tandori chicken, roasted caulifower, roasted vegetables, flavorful, freshly made yogurt and a wonderful rice pudding. The major's wife was a teacher. Theirs was also an arranged marriage. Very enjoyable people.


In Rajasthan we visited a village of 7,000 people which gave us a view of village life through its school, a home visit, and a visit to a Grand Circle funded craftsplace with fabrics.The children are uniformed and greeted us warmly. The classes I saw were math, English and Hindi The children are very disciplined and revere education. They touch the feet of their teachers to show this reverence. At the home a saried woman served us delicious hot chai. She used her scarf to shield her visage from her mother-in-law. At the workshop they provide jobs for 150 women and have done so for twenty years. Their crafts are lovely and well made. Most of us bought some of these. We then continued on to a tented lunch spot, including a small tent with Western toilet and sink. Later we would see the same kind of tent attached to our tents at the OAT tent camp. Some of our group took a camel ride.

My trip to India was one of the best tours I have ever been on. The logistics of providing this kind of many-faceted experience for two weeks were almost flawless for the travelers thanks to the exquisitely planned itinerary and our savvy guide who was on top of any variations. After only two weeks in India, I experienced to a small degree what the British colonists who "stayed on" must have seen in this beautiful country. The urge to return is strong.

Traveler: Kitty from Sedona, AZ traveled on March 09, 2009

As our wonderful guide, Daisy, said," India is a country of paradoxes. " There are the magnificent palaces and great poverty. Erotic scultures and modern women covered from head to toe.
The Taj Mahal exceeded all expectations and is the most beautiful building I have ever seen. Varanasi is an experience beyond description and shouldn't be missed. The OAT camp provided an oasis of peace amid a very busy schedule. The camel ride at dusk through the countryside was a perfect ending to the day.
I would suggest to women travelers that they leave their shorts at home and wear capris, long pants or long skirts. Indian women do not wear shorts. I am still not a fan of Indian food. This is a personal observation, not a comment on the quality of the food. There are many continental choices at breakfast. The best meals and most interesting were the ones we shared with out local hosts in their homes.
Don't let the trash, dirt, slums, and vendors distract you from your total experience. They are only part of the experience.

Traveler: Carol from Mt Pleasant, SC traveled on March 17, 2009

Colors, smells, sounds were spectacular during the trip and we met many wonderful people... It was an unforgettable experience. If you are going on the trip, we recommend the pretrip extension to Bhutan... our guide, Karchung, was knowledgeable and kind.. He became a friend to all of us by the end of the trip. This small kingdom is a paradise for travelers... so different.. don't miss it!!
Our India guide was just the opposite... he gave essential information but no more. Parchant seemed to be "burnt out" and was only there for the job at hand.. I would expect a few "personal anecdotes", experiences and a more caring attitude on such a long journey. Nevertheless, fellow travelers and the India experience made up for the guide. There was a lot of "down" time (in the afternoons) with nothing to do but sit in the hotels... perhaps guides could provide suggestions about how to spend time in these cities..

Traveler: Linda and Geoff from Blaine, WA traveled on February 04, 2009

There were so many varied experiences on this trip that each time we literally turned around, something new was happening. Our guide, Rajeev, stopped to show us a wedding, fields being harvested, bazaars and markets, a milk market where buyers put their hand in the milk to determine the fat content. In each place we were invited to take part and become a part of Indian daily life. On no other trip were we so immersed in the local culture. Varanasi was the highlight for me. Thousands of years of history were personified in the people washing themselves, their departed loved ones, the funeral pyres burning 247. The reverence and awe I experienced on the boat at night in the Ganges River watching Indian life and death was incredible. This trip was really worthwhile and perhaps one of the best we have ever taken.

Traveler: Agnes from Philadelphia, PA traveled on February 15, 2009

I agree with the other reviews. I just want to say that what makes an OAT trip special is the quality of the guides. We had Karchung in Bhutan, Sandeep Kaushik for North India and Dileesh Kumor for Cochin. They were all superior in information, organization, humor and meeting our special needs. I recommend that people consider Bhutan and Cochin when they go because these were outstanding experiences.

Traveler: Jill from Boulder, CO traveled on January 12, 2009

We have just returned from BhutanIndia (Feb 11 departure) and the godsgoddesses must have been with us: we were never cold, rarely hot, enjoyed the food, had amazing trip leaders (Karchung in Bhutan, Anurag in India), and delightful fellow-travellers.

We wish OAT offered a stand alone trip to Bhutan: the people are gentle and lovely, the architecture complements the incredibly beautiful natural scenary, the culturephilosophyreligionhistory is fascinating. I think the hotels have been upgraded: we have not a single complaint about any; we especially loved having a Buddhist shrine and internet access in the same room!

India is deeper, more complex, colorful, intense, difficult, rewarding than anyplace we have ever been. It's impossible to describe: you simply have to go. The transition from Bhutan to Delhi was startling, and we don't feel like we really saw Delhi. But the rest of the trip was incredibly well-planned. We are glad OAT left Varanasi for last as it is more intense, more gritty than anywhere else we went and I'm not sure we would have been able to absorb it earlier in the trip.

Our group shared copies of In the Realm of Happiness (on Bhutan), and The Elephanta Suite and The White Tiger--all great to read while you are there.

Don't forget your walking stick (Bhutan), and do plan to at least climb to the halfway point to Tiger's Nest. All of our group made it, even with bad knees and sundry other aging-problems.

Traveler: Elaine from Deptford, NJ traveled on February 11, 2009

Namaste … It’s like Aloha … But it is Indian for Hello, Goodbye, Good Morning … whatever ..!!

Just returned from the most incredible country that we have ever visited … India ..!!

We visited the cities of Delhi, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Agra, Khajuraho and Varanasi viewing all the Palaces, Shrines, the Taj Mahal, the Temples with the erotic art, the Tiger Preserve … and we did see a tiger ..!!, but the real heart of this trip was to witness the sheer mass of humanity conducting “ life as usual “ as an Indian ..!!

It is very hard to explain the feeling that you get walking on the city streets and alleys along with the regular folks, the beggars, the gypsies, the rickshaws, the motorized rickshaws, the motorcycles, the cars, the trucks, the camel carts, the monkeys, an occasional elephant and of the course the sacred cows ..!!

There is so much to absorb … because it is so different than walking down a street in your home town … the cows can be on the pavement, in the street and would you believe in a store ..!! We saw one wander in and lay down … no one did anything … it’s like it didn’t exist ..!! The traffic is non-stop … that is because of the very few traffic signals that are totally ignored by everyone,, so traffic just keeps moving with everyone owning a vehicle with a horn doing his best to wear it out ..!!

Our guide, who was excellent, wanted us to “feel” the essence of India … we rode in the rickshaws, the tuk-tuks- they are the motorized rickshaws, camel carts, open trucks, on camels and we sampled the local food and drink … an example is Chai … it is black tea with boiled water buffalo milk, served in a small clay cup … Yummy ..!!

We even visited a cow dung factory … nothing goes to waste in this country, where young girls were shaping cow dung ( by the bowl full ) into “ Indian Frisbees “ which are disks that look like a Frisbee and are burned in their stoves. Some were also making some type of incense using the cow dung along with some type of perfume to make incense sticks.

Perhaps the most amazing site was in the city of Varanasi … the Holy City … where Hindus hope to die so that their ashes can be thrown into the Ganges River. All Hindus are cremated ( some exceptions ) and in Veranasi they are cremated at the rate of 450 per day … non-stop 247. We floated past the cremation site one evening in a small boat and witnessed about 12 bodies being cremated … only male members of the family attend the cremation. After burning for about 3 hours the person’s ashes are then scattered into the Ganges River. Bear in mind, this is the same river that families bathe in during the day and wash their clothes in and also drink it ..!!

We also witnessed a Hindu light ceremony from our boat … Brahmin priests conduct this ceremony at the river’s edge with bells ringing and chanting and various flaming objects … very colorful ..!!

So India still has the caste system and they still have arranged marriages … some of the unique features along with those that we experienced or witnessed that contribute to this one of the most memorable adventures that we have experienced.

Traveler: Joseph from Marlton, NJ traveled on January 07, 2009

TRAINS, PLANES, TUK-TUKS AND RICKSHAWS

The brochures pitch “Incredible India.” I'm accustomed to strong adjectives inviting travelers, having visited 43 countries and each of the 50 States. But India is the only place I'd honestly label “incredible.” Indian friends at home advised visiting in December or January (as they choose). The weather is not hot and the rains are out of season. That turned out to be good advice.
After 24 hours in route I'm deposited in the capital, Delhi, and join our tour group, sixteen fellow Overseas Adventure Travelers. Thankfully, our knowledgeable guide immediately became den mother for the entire trip. Outside the terminal we all hesitated, intimidated by the teaming crowd. We'll witness this throughout India--over a billion people and no sign of arresting the growth.
The poverty commands a visitor's attention. Knee-high unwashed children join beggars with missing limbs or deformities from leprosy and mothers cradling infants. All crowd the routes taken by tourists. With a pleading expression, each makes the sign for hunger by forming the pinched fingers of one hand to tap his mouth while the other soiled palm reaches out in hope. There are so many; you're forced to keep moving.
The cultural shock must be experienced to believe. While India hosts an impressive number of educated citizens, and English speaking is common, 30% of her population is indigent. Roadside hovels, constructed from patched-together discarded refuse, serve as shelter for entire families living on dirt floors. Often both parents are away working while the oldest child, sometimes hardly school age, herds toddling bare-bottomed siblings away from nearby street traffic.
Youngsters and uninhibited adults relieve themselves against walls, trees or into open slit trenches. Roaming cows impede traffic while drivers patiently await the sacred creatures' passing. Youngsters collect fresh cow dung from the streets, sidewalks and even in the open-front stores—where cattle roam without interference. The cow flops are hand formed into twelve-inch patties approximately one and a half inches thick and arranged to dry. These brown Frisbees, seen stacked everywhere, will fuel small fires to heat water for staples: rice or chai (tea).
One becomes aware of the absence of trash receptacles, even on our tourist bus. The tradition seems to be drop it where you are. Fortunately there's little Styrofoam, cans, or glass beverage bottles. Paper, discarded fruit and vegetables, along with God knows what, are swept into piles where rag pickers, cows, dogs, goats and birds rummage for anything remotely usable. What's left is burned, adding to the sky's perpetual haze. The mystery to me is the lack of offensive smells. Our guide explains they are blessed with sunshine that quickly dries the feces and decaying foods.
Unlike we visiting Westerners, the population of this very spiritual nation, steeped in thousands of years of history and tradition, has a different take on all this. In this largely Hindu nation, with its traditional belief in reincarnation reflecting works of a previous life, folks view their existence as dictated by the pantheon of deities. Amid morning temple gongs and chants, everyone appears to accept his lot, despite the glaring disparities. In Delhi, visiting the largest mosque in India, I learned two lessons: more Muslims live here than in Pakistan. Also, before entering any temple or mosque, one should arrange the small fee for an attendant to protect your shoes. All shoes must be removed.
Only the insane visitor would drive himself about India. Our five-hour trip south from Delhi, over narrow roads to the city of Jaipur, had the bus' passengers squeezing their eyes closed to oncoming Tata trucks. The cacophony of horn honking added to the excitement of approaching vehicles “playing chicken,” weaving in and out of the endless traffic flow.
But it's maneuvering through “the old city's” river of humanity, where the visitor delights at the incongruence of one-hump camels pulling tall loads on car-tired carts, manned by a driver balancing high atop his cargo. Then wham, I'm startled at the serendipity of an elephant, colorfully painted in pastels, being attended beside the road. While caught up in traffic, there's time to observe street life from our bus windows. Cart after cart of fresh vegetables and fruits are tended by their owners. Repair shops fix tuk-tuks, motorcycles and flat tires, disassembling them right along the street. Locals gather around vendors preparing food. The chef tosses handfuls of unrecognizable leaves and other pungent spices into large pots heated by open fires. Everywhere children wave enthusiastically toward our bus.
Palaces and forts are the order of the day in Incredible India. Jaipur hosts the Amber Fort-Palace, where the 16th century maharajah held sway over his court, his warriors, toadies, and a well stocked harem. We learn that the architectural scale of both Delhi's mosque and Jaipur's fort palace was dictated to accommodate elephants. The beasts, still in vogue in temple celebrations, were employed in battle, as well as offering their substantial heads and backs to transport prestigious royalty.
Ranthambore National Park, now part of India's tiger conservation program, is the former hunting preserve of maharajahs. Before dawn, I head out aboard a 9-passenger safari canter in hopes one of the nocturnal tigers might show himself before retiring. I'm rewarded later in the afternoon during a return canter safari. People scrambled about, but no leaving the canter. Camera shutters flicked while a magnificent adult beast lazed in the shade and groomed itself like any house-tabby in your kitchen.
Keeping with the mood of enjoying unusual animals, the following day sixteen of us rode about for a couple of miles on the backs of camels. Our caravan delighted cheering village youngsters lining the trails and running along beside us.
Mark Twain said there are two kinds of people in the world: those who have visited the Taj Mahal and those who have not. In Agra I joined the ranks of the former. This “monument to love,” with its shimmering white inlaid marble and breath-taking architecture required 20,000 workers twenty-two years to complete. It is truly a “Wonder of the World.” And not to be missed is a visit to the well preserved Agra Fort and Palace, the seat of power for four generations of Mughal emperors, until the arly 1800s and British colonial rule.
Next a train ride and bus drive bring us to Khajuraho. This is not a destination for the faint of heart. Here 10th century temples' decorative stone carvings have come to symbolize the role of love in Hindu thought. We're told that, when excavated, the depicted sexual carryings-on scandalized post-Victorian English sensibilities! Even for today's more broad minded, these karma sutra depictions hold nothing back.
But the reward for my journey, Varanasi, delivers quintessential India. One of the most sacred cities in the world today, its history goes back 8,000 years. If the visitor to India enjoyed nothing more than the sights of this city, it would satisfy his quest. Before dawn believers begin down to Mother Ganges. Here are sights to humble the most jaded traveler. One must remain alert inching down through the narrow, crowded way. We dodge serpentine traffic amidst horns and bells of cycle-rickshaws, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, bicycles and the occasional car. Reaching the ghats (steps leading down to the river), our little group boards a waiting open boat, and is rowed by two oarsmen through the compelling panorama.
We see and hear devotees, both men and women, waist deep in the tainted water, some shouting, laughing and singing out prayers while they bounce in ritual dips. Ladies basically remain clothed, while the gentlemen strip down to their Jockeys. Other individuals wash clothes, swinging them in a wide arc to pound their laundry against the steps. Aesthetes sit on the ghats, cross-legged in the yoga position, and meditate. We join in the rituals by releasing hand-sized floats holding candles, flowers and incense. My attention is drawn to cremation fires along the ghats, lighting the dawn with their wood-fueled flames. Out of respect, we comply with the request for no pictures.
At today's stupas in nearby Sarnath, in 500 BC, we're told the Buddha revealed his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana. Someone had asked a local guide, “Isn't it this spot where Gautama Buddha is purported to have preached his first sermon?” The devoute Buddhist guide delivered a measured answer, “No. This is where the Buddha preached his first sermon.”
A flight to Cochin, in southern India, delivers me to a houseboat, where for three days and nights I'll explore Kerala's backwaters. Our boats, converted rice transporters, are each attended by a cook, a captain, and a helper. The accommodations offer every comfort convenience, thanks to continually running quiet Honda generators. We tie up frequently along levies, where coconuts and plantains flourish beside acres of rice paddies. In this birders' paradise, enthusiasts in our group kept busy scanning and focusing their binoculars, then leafing through colorfully illustrated books to compare discoveries.
This part of the world has attracted adventurers over the centuries, among the most noteworthy St. Thomas the apostle, who brought Christianity. In Cochin's busy port, I stood in a 16th century church. Staring down to read an historical burial marker, I sensed the shiver of an angel's kiss. The plaque commemorated the burial place of an adventurous character from my school studies, Vasco de Gama. From the West, explorers sought out the spices Europe craved. Today those same spices are prominent in India's culture and commerce. Dried peppers, coriander, and turmeric name a few staples in native food preparation.
But, despite its wholesomeness and variety, I found daily Indian food monotonous--until the sight of Mac Donald's golden arches. I informed our guide that I'd be missing dinner with the group, going for a hamburger instead. “No hamburgers, Frank. Indians don't eat beef.” A Mac Donald's without a Big Mac! Stunned I asked, “Then, what do they serve?” “Veggie burgers, chicken, maybe goat.” Go figure.
Three weeks of pulsing, heaving experiences end in India's financial hub and Bollywood center, Mumbai (Bombay during the British Raj). Here on a quiet street sits the house, today a popular museum, where Gandhi stayed during his visits to Bombay. Exhibits, dioramas, photos and a preserved living space complete with period furnishings, combine to review the national hero's personal life and chronicle his political battles. It grabs at the visitor's gut to realize the powerful effect one determined individual, carrying a burning cause, can have on history.
With my back to the Arabian Sea, I stood beside the 85 foot arch centered in Gateway of India. This massive construction welcomed King George V and Queen Mary's visit in 1911. Across the street sprawls Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Only weeks before, its fire and havoc had raged across my hometown television screen. I'm facinated by India's unquenchable spirit for survival. Our group visited other scenes from India's “2711” terrorist attacks: The train station, the hospital, all repaired for the most part, doing business as usual.
One recognizes that world travel has changed in recent years. It's sobering to think that today's journeyer must decide upon his destination only after serious considerations—issues that weren't in place in the good old days of adventure travel. But they're out there, and worth the effort.

Traveler: Frank from Laguna Hills, CA traveled on January 11, 2009