A Work In Progress
Published date:
02.01.12
Returned recently from this trip, my 25th OATGCT trip in the past 6 years. Colombia was the only major country in South America I had not visited previously, so was looking forward to this very much. Realize it is a new tour for OAT (my departure was only the second), and it was definitely worthwhile, but there are some problems which I have brought to OAT’s attention and hope they will be addressed immediately.
Most serious problem was with the hotels, particularly in Bogota and Santa Marta, although a problem with all of them was lack of English capability. Only about 2 percent of the front desk personnel spoke English, so most requests to fix problems were greeted with a shrug and no action. Had to have the Trip Leader intervene all the time, but even then some of the requests were not honored. Also, written instructions in English are necessary for in-room safes, heatair conditioning convectors, hot water heaters, etc. If the hotels cannot provide them, then OAT should.
Casa de la Botica in Bogota had a great location close to museums and churches for daytime, although one does have to be careful walking around after dark. Rooms were supposed to have heat (evenings can be cool at 8600 feet), wifi capability, in-room safe and a rod for hanging clothes, but it took 3 rooms (meaning repacking twice) to get that, even though the rooms are in a new addition and have only been open a few months. So my advice would be to check out the room thoroughly before unpacking. Also, it was not possible to call a cell phone in Colombia from the hotel – you could call a cell phone in the US or Europe, but not in Bogota, a really crazy system since there are 45 million people and 45 million cell phones in Colombia!
Santa Marta Real Hotel was the worst. Rooms were the most poorly designed I have seen in a long time. Air conditioner blew right on the head of the bed, so instant sinus trouble or no aircon. There was a single light, in the ceiling toward the head of the bed that was passable for reading in bed, but not for doing any work at the desk after dark. There were no convenient light switches or electrical outlets for computer use, and it was not possible to make any phone calls from the room. On the second night, there was a “Sweet 15” birthday party with scores of screaming teenagers. Hotel is entirely tile and marble, with no soundproofing, and the party kept moving between the open-air roof restaurant and the lobby, so no sleep was possible until well after 1 a.m. That establishment needs to decide whether it wants to be a hotel or catering hall, it is not capable of both.
Don Pedro de Heredia Hotel in Cartagena was much better once I found out how to operate the in-room hot water heater in the bathroom, so do ask about that early-on. It has a great location, for both day and nighttime, close to many restaurants, museums, sights and interesting street activities.
For all the hotels, take Kleenex (none was provided), a wash cloth, and travel alarm.
Since it is new, the itinerary for the trip is being tweaked, and there were several changes made after I made final payment in October, so I was stuck with the result. Some of the changes were fine, but I was especially concerned when 1 day in Bogota with a visit to the superb Botero Museum and free time was replaced by a 3-mile hike over steep terrain at 11,000 feet – a significant change. I kept to the original schedule myself and had a delightful day at that museum and others and several churches (Santa Clara was the highlight), all within a short walk of the hotel. The rest of the group (5 couples) did take the hike, with very mixed reactions – 1 couple really liked it, 2 thought it was OK, and 2 absolutely hated it.
More time is needed at the fabulous Gold Museum in Bogota, including some free time to wander on your own. Insist on that, even if it means walking back to the hotel on your own – an easy 15 to 20 minute walk, perfectly safe in daylight. Don’t feel compelled to play the local guide’s childish picture identification game -- fine for elementary school students, but not far seasoned adult travelers. Instead use the time to explore on your own.
The mud volcano also had a mixed reaction – the 6 tour members who did it really enjoyed it, the 5 of us who did not enjoyed not doing it even more, but that choice was available. No one opted for the Rosario Islands optional tour from Cartagena, so instead our excellent Trip Leader Alex took us on an impromptu walking tour of Gethsemani, part of the walled city we had not seen on the previous day, and it was an extremely interesting Learning & Discovery experience. That should be an included tour! By contrast, the Emerald Museum “Learning & Discovery Experience” was much less satisfactory, as the museum “exhibits” were mediocre. Am not a shopper, so this became just another OAT forced shopping stop. Going back to the hotel for free time to pursue other activities of one’s own choosing would have been preferable.
Traveler: Richard Carlson from Arlington, VA traveled
on January 09, 2012
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