Chile & Argentina: The Andes to Patagonia (2012)

Depart the U.S. on an overnight flight to Argentina.

Over the next two days, we’ll experience Buenos Aires through the eyes of the porteños, the fiercely proud residents of the cosmopolitan capital of Argentina, as our resident Trip Leader guides us on an adventure of discovery into what it truly means to live amidst the barrios (neighborhoods) of the city of “fair winds.”

After checking in to our hotel, we’ll slip into the swirl of activity that fills the surrounding streets, joining the flurry of pedestrian traffic, business workers, and fashionistas as we get to know our surroundings during an orientation walk. As we stroll the heart of Buenos Aires, we’ll catch a glimpse of the endless options and activities available to us during our stay: sidewalk cafés ideal for people-watching over cortado (coffee with milk) and medialunas (croissants); nearby markets, mansions, and quiet cobbled streets; and wide boulevards showcasing the city’s elegant mixture of classic and modern architectural styles.

Tonight, we meet for an informative briefing on our adventure with our Trip Leader before getting our first taste of Argentina’s cuisine during a Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant. With influences from French and Italian to Spanish and indigenous fare, there’s no telling what you might order—though Argentina’s succulent grass-fed beef (which is less a local specialty than a national obsession) might be a good place to start.

This morning, we discover the rich history of Buenos Aires—an epic tale of birth and rebirth, protests and passions, suffering and triumph set against the placid landscape of the Rio de la Plata—from a local perspective, as we explore it barrio by barrio during today’s excursion. We’ll begin from the bottom up, delving deep beneath the streets to board its rumbling subte (the city’s subway system), whose stations are landmarks unto themselves, featuring works from local artists and subway cars dating back to 1913.

 

Startling contrasts await us when we return to street level, as we experience the bustle of the city’s cultural center. We begin with Plaza de Mayo—site of Argentina’s answer to the White House, the Casa Rosada, and the heart of Buenos Aires’ political life. From there, we wander the wide boulevards of Avenida 9 de Julio, and explore the narrow market-streets of Florida Avenue. Then, we stroll the colorful La Boca artists' district, where the Argentinean tango was born, then visit the resting place of Eva Perón in Recoleta’s extravagant cemetery. Afterward, you’ll have the afternoon free to explore the city on your own.

This evening, we are initiated into the world of the 19th-century milonga, a dance hall where the tango is practiced by newcomers and perfected into an art form by the milongueros and milongueras, keepers of the tango’s code of subtle gestures and customs. We’ll try a few steps ourselves during an included lesson, and afterwards you can further your appreciation during an optional dinner and tango show at Esquina Carlos Gardel—one of the most prestigious tango houses in Buenos Aires—where the orchestra will strike up a romantic tune and professional dancers will show us how this dramatic dance should be done.

Today, we trade man-made skyscrapers for a natural skyline as we depart Buenos Aires after breakfast for our flight to Bariloche, during which we can gaze out the windows at the frosted peaks that surround this lakeside city nestled in the foothills of the Andes. Set along the banks of the 40-mile-long Lake Nahuel Huapi, San Carlos de Bariloche—as the city is more formally known—is the gateway to Patagonia’s Lake District, and has a distinctly alpine flavor indicative of its strong Central European influence. This is most apparent in the wood and stone architecture of the city center, which—along with its status as an international skiing destination—helps give Bariloche the nickname “Little Switzerland.”

The afternoon and evening are yours to preview the city’s myriad charms, and to enjoy dinner on your own at one of its many restaurants.

This morning we explore Bariloche, starting with a guided tour of the city before venturing out into the surrounding countryside. At Campanario Hill, we'll enjoy a chairlift ride up this picturesque peak, climbing high above the tree line for a panoramic view of Patagonia's striking scenery. We'll take in the beautiful collage of deep green foliage and snowcapped mountains mirrored in the region’s azure lakes before enjoying another leisurely chairlift ride back to level ground.

Later, we'll witness how Bariloche’s land and culture come together when we see how locally grown ingredients are used to brew beer at a family-owned craft brewery. Considering the strong German influence in Bariloche, it's no surprise that locals are experts at transforming their region’s fresh hops, barley, and pristine water into a variety of beers and ales using artisanal methods passed down from generation to generation. We'll have lunch at the brewery while we observe the brewmasters at work.

After lunch, join us for an optional excursion to the Limay River, where we'll float leisurely by raft along this gentle river, enjoying an up-close look at the vast, dry landscapes of the northern Patagonian steppe. A popular site for fly-fishing, this river is home to an abundance of large rainbow and brown trout.

Or enjoy the afternoon at leisure in Bariloche, where you can explore architect Ezequiel Bustillo’s city center, learn more about native cultures at the Museo de Patagonia, or enjoy a dinner of trucha (trout) freshly caught just hours earlier. More adventurous regional specialties include jabali (wild boar) and ciervo (venison). And considering that Bariloche is Argentina’s chocolate capital, why not indulge your sweet tooth at a local chocolateria?

This morning, we'll experience an older side of Patagonia during a discussion with a member of the Mapuche, an indigenous, agricultural people native to southern Chile and Argentina. We'll learn about their struggle for survival—from their historic battles against Inca, Spanish, and Argentinean rulers—as well as their recent reconciliation forged with today's democratic government.

In the afternoon, we'll visit a local family in their home on the Patagonian steppe, where they live on land they have owned for generations. We'll learn about their way of life, and mount up for a horseback ride that lets us experience this traditional local mode of transportation. We'll be the guests of the family for a Home-Hosted Dinner, including their home-made bread.

After breakfast today, we’ll bid farewell to Bariloche, board our comfortable motorcoach, and leave Argentina behind as we cross the Andes Mountains and the Chilean border. We’ll stop for lunch in Chile en route to the coastal town of Pargua—near Puerto Montt—where we’ll board a ferry to the island of Chiloé.

Chiloé is the second-largest island in Chile, and home to the indigenous Cunco, Chonos, and Mapuche peoples. Its culture diverged from the mainland during a 1599 insurrection that destroyed Spanish settlements there. While that rift was eventually healed, Chiloé today maintains its distinctive native culture, offering us a glimpse into the past. Life here looks much as it did 50 years ago, and as we disembark from the ferry, we might see fishermen returning from a day at sea with nets filled with trout, eel, and crab, some of which we may enjoy tonight during dinner at our hotel.

This morning, we experience the fascinating culture of Chiloé in depth. We begin with a trip to the island's capital, Castro, which was founded in 1567 and is the third-oldest city in Chile.

Our first stop there is at a local market, where we’ll browse the natural bounty on display for typical ingredients used in local cuisine. Then, we'll witness the unique architecture of Chiloé—and learn about the importance of timber and woodworking in its culture—as we head to the Plaza de Armas to explore the colorful Iglesia San Francisco. This church was originally designed by Italian architect Eusebio Provasoli to be made from concrete, but the resourceful Chilote people modified the design for wood. We'll marvel at the skill of the local craftsmen when we witness the elaborate architectural detail inside, and appreciate firsthand their fusion of colonial and native traditions that led to the recognition of Chiloé's wooden churches as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We’ll also see Castro’s vibrantly colored palafitos—waterfront houses built on pillars of wood that act as stilts.

From Castro, we journey into the countryside to visit a rural school—supported in part by Grand Circle Foundation—in the village of Quel Quel. There, we’ll meet the youngest generation of Chilotes—as well as their teachers and parents—as we enjoy the chance to interact with them one-on-one. We'll enjoy a light snack with the students at the school, then get a more in-depth look at family life later, during a Home-Hosted Lunch.

Families on Chiloé commonly gather for curanto, a stew consisting of typical local fare—shellfish, meat, potatoes, and vegetables—cooked in a hole in the ground lined with rocks, and this is the hearty meal that today has in store for us. As the curanto is cooking, we'll meet with local weavers to learn about their art, and help prepare a few popular local snacks, like chapaleles and milcaos (fried potato pancakes). Finally, we’ll sit down to a late lunch with our hosts, enjoying both the flavor of local specialties and the chance to learn about their way of life on Chiloé.

After breakfast this morning, we'll travel to the quaint fishing town of Puñihuil, where (weather permitting) we'll board small boats and sail out for an up-close encounter with the residents of the wildlife sanctuary there. This section of Chiloé is home to both the Humboldt and Magellanic penguin (from approximately October to March), as well as sea otters, sea lions, seals and a variety of marine birds.

Following our cruise, we'll enjoy lunch at a local restaurant in Puñihuil, owned and operated by a family of fishermen. Afterward, we depart Chiloé to return to Chile’s mainland by ferry. We’ll arrive at our hotel in Puerto Varas in late afternoon, and go on a short orientation walk before having time at leisure to relax or explore. Tonight we enjoy dinner on our own.

 

This morning, we’ll ride to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park to witness the Petrohue Waterfalls—clear turquoise chutes of water flowing over ancient basaltic lava that was created by the snowcapped Osorno Volcano and transformed by silt over the centuries into a bed of polished stone. The Mapuche Indians call this area the meeting ground between man and God, and with its mirror-like lakes, cascading falls, and gently fuming volcanoes perpetually capped with snow, it’s certainly one of the loveliest regions of Chile. We’ll have a chance to take a brief walk through the nearby rain forest. Afterwards, we'll enjoy a Home-Hosted Lunch of fresh trout with a local family.

Your afternoon is free in Puerto Varas. The heart of Chile’s Lakes District, Puerto Varas is a neat, busy little town whose architecture reflects the influence of the German expatriates who settled here a century and a half ago. Take advantage of the charming village shops within walking distance; enjoy striking views of the perfect, snowcapped cone of Osorno Volcano towering over Lake Llanquihue; and visit the lovely Church of the Sacred Heart that stands on a hilltop overlooking the town, modeled on the Marienkirche of Germany’s Black Forest. Or hop a bus to Frutillar to experience the town’s strong German influence and sample kaffee and kuchen in a local restaurant.

Today we fly to Punta Arenas, a bustling port overlooking the Strait of Magellan that serves as a lively outpost for travelers at the foot of the Chilean Andes, and which is sometimes considered the southernmost city in the world.

Founded in 1848 as a military penal colony, Punta Arenas leapt to international prominence in the late 19th century because of its sheep and wool industry and the discovery of gold nearby. We’ll see mansions built during this boom time during today's walking tour and take in panoramic views of the city. We'll also visit Plaza Munoz Gamero—the main square at the heart of town—and the Museo Salesiano, with exhibits on the ethnology, archaeology, history, and wildlife of the region.

Dinner tonight is on our own. Locals recommend seeking the seasonal centolla (king crab) and erizos (sea urchins).

Today, we travel overland to Torres del Paine, widely considered to be South America’s finest national park—and one of the most remote and beautiful places in the world. We’ll spend two nights here, giving us time to hike winding trails over rippling currents; witness the ostrich-like rhea (known locally as nandu), condor, fox, and other wildlife protected by this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve site; and take in the stunning landscapes of snowcapped mountains rising dramatically over mirror-smooth lakes and flowering fields.

We’ll stop for a boxed lunch at a scenic viewpoint en route to Torres del Paine, and check into our hotel in the early afternoon. Then we'll hike to Salto Grande, a rushing waterfall set between Lago Nordenskjold and Lago Pehoe. We’ll witness the awesome power of the falls, and have a chance to spot some of the indigenous wildlife—like the guanaco, a cousin of the camel—that comes here to feed on the verdant foliage along the riverbank, before returning to our hotel for dinner.

This morning we’ll explore Lago Grey, which is one of the park’s largest and most famous lakes, boarding a small boat for a closer view of the enormous icebergs—calved from Glacier Grey—that float on the lake’s surface. Weather permitting, we’ll navigate around the icebergs and chart a course for Glacier Grey itself, where we’ll enjoy magnificent views of its jagged blue-white walls rising to the sky.

We then go for a trek along the shores of Lago Grey, where gigantic blue icebergs rest against sandy beaches while Glacier Grey stretches into the distance through the towering peaks of the surrounding mountains, before returning to our hotel for dinner.

After breakfast, we depart Torres del Paine National Park and cross the Andes once again as we transfer by coach to Calafate, a boomtown near the border between Chile and Argentina that serves as the gateway to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. For 65 million years, the land here evolved from chaotic volcanic eruption and massive glaciers, creating a jagged landscape of interconnected fjords and channels, and mountainside glacial lakes. We’ll enjoy another chance to view the scenery and wildlife of the Patagonian steppe during our drive, enjoy a trek around Laguna de los Cisnes, and stop for lunch en route in a small mountain village before continuing across the border into Argentina.

This evening we arrive at our hotel in Calafate. The town takes its name from the calafate bush—locals say eating its berries will ensure your return to this mystical region. We’ll be free to discover its charms as we explore Calafate at our own pace tonight, and enjoy dinner on our own.

Today, we embark upon a full-day excursion to Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Los Glaciares is the second-largest national park in Argentina, and comprises more than 1,700 square miles and nearly 50 large glaciers. These glaciers are fed by a giant ice cap (the largest continental ice extension after Antarctica) that begins in the Andes and occupies well over a third of the park’s total area.

During our explorations, we’ll discover the wondrous Perito Moreno Glacier, a pristine marvel towering nearly 200 feet above Lake Argentino. It is named after Francisco Moreno, a 19th-century Argentinean explorer who helped resolve his country’s border dispute with neighboring Chile. The constant, cyclical movement of Perito Moreno’s ice mass often forces the glacier to “calve”—an iceberg “birthing” process in which smaller chunks of ice fracture and break off from the glacier to thunderous accompaniment. This spectacle can occur at any time, so we’ll keep our fingers crossed that we’ll be lucky enough to witness an iceberg calve as we enjoy a boxed lunch in front of Perito Moreno.

However, ice isn’t the only thing we’ll see today. Just east of the ice fields are areas of southern beech forest and windswept steppe. As we journey overland to and from Perito Moreno, we’ll pass through scenic forests filled with lively birds. We return to our hotel in Calafate late this afternoon. Dinner tonight is on your own.

We depart Calafate for the airport after breakfast today, boarding our flight north to rejoin the porteños in Buenos Aires. Once there, we’ll check into our hotel and have the day at leisure to absorb more of the culture, architecture, and character of this memorable port city before gathering for a night of reminiscing with fellow travelers over a Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant.

We wake to the final day of our journey today, and enjoy a last morning at leisure in Buenos Aires. This afternoon, we transfer to the airport for our flight home.

Or, travelers choosing to extend their journey will transfer to Iguassu Falls for their post-trip extension.