PATAGONIA
Published date:
03.15.12
PATAGONIA – 2012
Our journey began and ended in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Our hotel, The Argenta, was very centrally located for walking tours in the downtown area. Our guide, Nicole, warned us strenuously about pickpockets and thieves. She advised me not to bring my “expensive” camera along on any walking tours. I didn’t! We walked through some parks and down Florida Street, the “walking street” where Mary and I danced the tango in 2006. There was much to see and, fortunately, it was uneventful.
Not at all like two weeks later when Mary and I were walking through a park toward Puerto Madero, the newly renovated condochicrestaurant area that once was he original port of entry for all ships. Mary had to sit on a bench to get rid of a stone in her shoe when the “Cara Cara” birds hit. She and I were covered with little drops of “poop” that appeared to come from above. A middle-aged Argentine couple came to our rescue with a bottle of water and Kleenex. We kept screaming and pushing them away. Fortunate for us that we did. They were looking to pick our pockets of anything they could get. I had on a new pair of cargo pants with very good zippers that were hard to open. That and our pushing them away saved us from losing anything.
Oddly enough we didn’t realize what wad happened until over three hours later when I was back at our hotel listening to another couple in our group explaining the same thing that happened to us. Only, they got robbed of a lot of money.
I panicked and starting feeling my pockets. Everything seemed to be there…except…my passport. Oh no! My passport was still in my old pair of “poopy” pants; I had forgotten to transfer it to my new pants when I changed clothes. Saved by the zipper!
We were also warned about counterfeit 100 peso bills. A favorite ploy of unscrupulous taxi drivers is to take a 100 peso bill given them by the passenger, switch it for a counterfeit and tell the rider it was counterfeit and demand additional payment.
Our incident left a bad taste in our mouths about Buenos Aires, which we left that early evening. I suppose every big city has its problems. There was no question, however, that the crooks were targeting tourists extensively in areas that had attractions.
Bariloche, in the Lakes region, was our first stop via a two-hour packed flight. Nicole, our guide, had everything organized; it went smoothly all the way to our hotel,Villa Huinid, overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi. Nicole made it clear that she expected everyone to be on time with only a five-minute margin of error. We understood that.
Apart from tourism, the area has a nuclear research facility, which is a big draw for financial resources. The waste material goes to the United States for disposal.
The weather held again so we were able to ride the cable chair up to the top overlooking all the lakes at Llao Llao (pronounced “chow, chow”). The “ancient” hotel at Llao Llao is something that you can look at (from the outside) but not touch. Unfortunately, for all those rich people staying there, Llao Llao is very expensive, has small rooms and windows and NO air-conditioning…a real “bear” in summer.
It is easy to see why Parque Argentino Nahuel Hauapi is a national park; blue skies, milky clouds against a shimmering lake with magnificent mountains zigzagging in and out of inlets. An interesting pine tree in this area is the Monkey Puzzle. Its needles are triangular shaped with a very sharp point. As the tree matures the branches grow long and swirly like the tales of monkeys with pinecones on the ends.
A highlight of the day was a visit to a local brewery run by Thomas Gilbert, a young Frenchman, who started the business with his father. Thomas is the quality control person; he drinks a lot of beer. There are sixteen microbreweries in the Bariloche area. Impressive! The lunch and the freshly brewed beer were very good, too.
Our next adventure was rafting down the Rio Limay, which flows, into Lago Nahuel Hauapi. We were advised that on a scale of 1 to 5, 5 being the most difficult, our river trip would be a -1. So, if we wanted excitement we should not go on this trip. This was going to be a leisurely, relaxing, no hassle FLOAT down a no-rapids river with a guide doing all the rowing. What could go wrong with that? Well…for starters, one of our two rafts was partially deflated. Our guides started furiously using a hand pump to blow it back up again. Not to worry! The river looked to be a quarter mile wide where we were entering. I casually asked, how deep is this river. Only about six to ten feet deep. We were given life jackets – a good move – and told to buckle up. Then we were given a quick lesson on what we should do if we, god forbid, fell out of the raft. The rower has an inflatable buoy filled with rope, which plays out as the buoy comes flying toward the waterlogged rafter. Simply face the raft, grab onto the rope and hang on while you are pulled back into the raft. Piece of cake!
The raft was finally filled with air, we climbed aboard and our guide pushed off. The river was moving rapidly and we slid with ease into its center. Ahhhh! That’s not too bad, now is it? We could easily see down to the very rock bottom of the Limay. Talk about the purest of water; our guide said that we could drink this river water without any problem whatsoever. No thank you!
On one side of the Rio Limay was national park; ergo, no buildings. The other side was private land. Ergo, ….still NO buildings…a couple of sheep, cattle and one lonely scraggly dog looking for companionship as he ran down the shore barking at us. Occasionally, we could see an estancia off in the distance. Beautiful rock formations appeared regularly. An occasional fisherman with a guide in a small raft went casting by looking for that trophy trout. We saw only one fish, caught by a person on shore; it was about ten pounds.
All too soon we reached our destination and had to leave the river. It was a beautiful two hours…and no deflations.
Visiting a horse “ranch” was next on our agenda. Mary and I didn’t ride the horses. Some people rode the horses out and walked backed. Others walked out, and then got on the horses and rode back. We walked both ways. Finally, we were beginning to see what the real Patagonia was like…rolling plains, distant low level mountains with snow capped peaks far off in the distance, scrub brush, smallish, scraggly trees. As we walked behind the horses, they quickly got lost from our view as they dipped and weaved through imperceptible gullies and draws. Unfortunately, we ended walking on a partially completed road, which didn’t lend to the atmosphere of the situation. The weather changed quickly and we weren’t prepared – left the rain gear in the bus. So, we got soaked on the walk back. However, we were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow. The wind dried us off by the time we got back from our walk. Everyone appreciated a delicious homemade lunch. Mary and I gave our hosts a little gift of a refrigerator magnet notebook and a piece of amethyst we had “discovered” in Thunder Bay, Ontario a couple of years ago.
The next day we started our bus trip from Bariloche to Chiloe Island…a full day’s drive. We could have gone into Chile via the lakes, but it is not recommended…too long, uncertain lake waters, bad weather and constant changing from boat to land to boat several times…with all our luggage. So, we schlepped our luggage onto a luxurious bus that can easily hold 45 people; we were sixteen including Nicole, our guide. We traveled the entire length of Lago Nahuel Huapi to the 4,333 foot pass, Paso Cardenal Antonio Samore, just south of the infamous volcano, Velcan Puyehue. The Paso was covered with volcanic ash, snowplowed off the road to allow traffic. Ash was flying through the Paso on high winds. We got out of there quickly after taking a picture that said, “Bienvenido a Chile.” Unfortunately, Velcann Puyehue was clouded over; couldn’t see it.
A little further on we had lunch at a non-descript restaurant along the side of the road. The chicken and vegetables were excellent. But, the astounding experience at this stop was what was next door – a museum of vintage Studebaker cars going all the way back to the origins of the car. It has more Studebakers than any other museum apart from Detroit. What a surprise! So delightful!
We turned south at Osorno and drove on a new freeway past Frutillar that we visited a few years ago on our cruise around the tip of South America. Velcann Orsano across Lago Llanquihue was partially covered in clouds. But, it was easy to see that much of the Volcano had no snow on its peak. Much global warming had taken since we were last there in 2005.
Bypassing Puerto Varas and Puerto Montt, we went directly to Pargua where we caught a 20-minute ferry ride to Chiloe Island. We stayed at Hosteria Ancud, a UNESCO historical site situated on a fortressed point facing the Pacific Ocean. Chiloe Island is very interesting because it is the place where the potato is supposed to have originated by the Mapuche People. They traded the potato to the Incas, which then spread throughout South America. There are reported to be about 6,000 varieties of potatoes. Many varieties of potatoes, grown locally, never reach the markets, but are eaten by the local people. Potatoes are the basis for all meals. It is not unusual for kids to eat mashed potatoes and French fries at the same meal.
Another important historical note is that the Mapuche People, who inhabited a vast area of South America, were never fully subdued by the Spaniards and later Chile and Argentina until around1845. All Mapuche men were raised to be warriors. They were a fiercely independent and warrior people who were able to outfox the Spaniards at every turn until completely overwhelmed. They stole the Spanish horses and became better riders than the Spaniards. Nowadays the Mapuche are using the public media to push their causes for land reform in the courts. It is a slow process.
Castro, on Chiloe Island is the third oldest city in Chile and was never destroyed by wars.
On Chiloe Island and other remote areas the Mapuche still attempt to maintain their way of life, to keep their traditions alive. They are doing much of this through the local communities and schools. We visited a school supported by OAT; some children and their mothers came in to show us their school and entertain and feed us. It was a desolate building, but still they had a school whereas before they had none. The headmaster was now being supported by one additional teacher for the coming year. Improvements are slow.
The tides on Chiloe Island are 16 to 20 feet high which causes its own adjustment problems. Many colorfully painted houses are high up on stilts to deal with the tides. We enjoyed a delicious seafood soup at the local market filled with hunks of fish and several different kinds of shell fish…for only $1.50 a bowl. One delicacy we did not try was kelp. It is a staple food item on the Island. Babies love it. It is like a pacifier. They can chew on it all day. They also sell black bricks of green seaweed, which are compressed and salted. Didn’t try that either. It’s not unlike the Irish cooking and eating potatoes and cabbage…I’m told.
When we got back to our bus, we found that it was being watched by a little girl, Priscilla, who earlier had asked our guide, Nicole, “Do you want me to watch your bus?” She used the money she got from “guarding” buses to pay for her school supplies. Quite an entrepreneur.
The San Francisco cathedral on Chiloe is quite a sight. It was originally designed by an Italian architect…in marble…which, of course, the Chiloeans don’t have. They followed the design and built the outside using sheet metal and the inside using wood from the Cypress tree. Beautifully done!
We had another lunch at a local home, which was not unlike the Hawaiian or Fijian Luau. Because of the unpredictability of the weather the cooking took place in an octagonal shaped cookhouse. Softball sized rocks were heated by a strong fire in a half barrel. After the rocks were heated, the barrel was removed and the rocks spread out. The food was added on top of the rocks: several kinds of shellfish, chicken, steaks, sausages, potatoes, corn…whatever the cook wanted. The entire “lot” of food was covered with large leaves and matts. After one hour the food was ready…and delicious. During the cooking time we learned about Chiloen Guanaco wool dying that the local women are re-developing to promote this fledgling industry.
We were told that there are distinct differences between Brazilian, Argentine and Chilean women. After making love: A Brazilian woman says, “More, more!” An Argentine woman says, “Do you love me?” A Chilean woman says, “Don’t tell anyone!”
I wouldn’t know!
We had been having beautiful weather until the day we went to Islotes de Punihuil on the pacific side of Chiloe. Even so, we donned our rain gear and went out in the boats to see the Magellan Penguins and the other birds. Fortunately, the islands were not far off shore and the waterways were well protected. We climbed aboard wheeled carts, which were pushed into the surf so we could board the boats without getting our feet wet.
Puerto Varas is a small tourist town on Lago Llanquihue. Of course, I had to try the local casino. After an hour of playing blackjack I walked away from the table one peso ahead. Not bad for an hour’s entertainment.
Now came the real heavy-duty tourism…a two-and-one-half hour flight to Punta Arenas; overnight there and then an all day bus ride to Torres del Paine. They like to keep the Torres national park pristine…all gravel roads, not very well kept up; few accommodations inside the park and virtually none outside; long drives to get anywhere. We were lucky to be staying at Hosteria Lago Grey at the opposite end of the Lake where lies the Lago Grey Glacier.
The views of Torres must be taken from quite a far distance…unless you are doing some heavy-duty hiking and climbing, which we were not. The views, none-the-less, were spectacular and now we have pictures to remind us of terrains not seen anywhere else on earth.
Traveling to the Lago Grey Glacier was relatively easy; a short walk from our Hosteria to the dock, donning lifejackets; a short motorboat ride to the main boat for the trip to the Glacier. Icebergs scattered the lake as we approached the Glacier, which was split at the waters’ edge into two sections. Before we toured the Glacier we picked up about twenty young men and women coming back from an environmental work program. They were dressed “to kill” with all the latest brands: North Face; Doite, Mercks, Ski; Letti; Vertical; Patagonia Gabierno de Chile, to name a few.
After two days of Lago Grey and Torres we drove out of the park and into Argentina, heading for El Calafate, the gateway to Los Glaciares national Park. Here there is quite a contrast. El Calafate is on the plains of Patagonia, at least fifty miles from the Park. All the amenities of tourism are here; good lodging, many restaurants and shops.
The drive to the Park is along Lake Argentino, one of the largest and most spectacular lakes in South America. Darwin and his team missed finding this lake by only a couple of hours because it was at a higher elevation and they couldn’t see it…and, they were running out of food.
Perito Marino Glacier is about eighteen miles long and five miles wide where it butts up against the peninsula that houses the main Park Lodge. The road is paved from outside the Park to the main lodge above the Marino Glacier. Metal walkways cover paths and support the many tourists that want to walk along the glacier and view it from various vantage points. It is especially conducive to watching for calving of iceberg.
When we were there an “underground” river started flowing out of the point of the glacier just below the Lodge. The water was gushing out in about a ten-foot waterfall and causing more calving as the ice broke off from above. We saw several calving’s during our visit. Another phenomenon that we saw was an iceberg calving off the glacier from under the water. Two enormous slabs of black glacier ice broke the surface of the lake like two nuclear submarines breaking surface in the movie HUNT FOR RED OCTOBER. We spent the entire day at the Glacier…awesome.
Soon we were on our way home…only memories and many pictures to remind us of a great trip. Three and a half hours from El Calafate to Buenos Aires; nine hours from Buenos Aires to Miami and four hours to Minneapolis. Home again!
Art Indelicato
March 14, 2012
Traveler: Arthur Indelicato from St Louis Park, MN traveled
on February 16, 2012
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