Antarctica trip
Published date:
02.21.11
I waited a long time to finally add my 7th continent, and I loved it. The Clelia II was a fabulous ship, and it has been fully restored since the rogue wave hit it in November. We heard the ship had been sold to new owners so it will not be used for next winter’s season, but I’m sure OAT will find a great replacement. The brochure does a great job of describing the trip, so I won’t say much about the itinerary. Instead I’d like to caution you to pay attention to advice not to wear jewelry and to keep an eye on all your belonging while in Buenos Aires (this includes watching someone physically put your suitcase(s)andor hand luggage on the bus). One couple in our group lost their carry-on in the transfer from the domestic airport to the international airport on the last day. Another lady lost all of her electronics (camera, laptop, cell phone, GPS, etc.) when their group went to a hotel between transfers and the group leader volunteered to watch everyone’s hand luggage while they stretched their legs before the long flight home. On our two days in the city, 2 people were mugged—a lady who had green stuff sprayed on her to distract her and a man who was knocked down by some boys dressed as soccer players (he was wearing either a Rolex or a knock off). DO NOT wear ANY jewelry unless you are all together in a single group. A side note, cabins 430 and 431 on the ship are not adequately labeled—they should be in the green or pink category as they have only 215 square feet, not the 235 that all the other blue cabins have.
On a more positive note, the Expedition Team was fabulous! Each person had a different expertise, lots of hands-on experience, and a friendly, humorous style. Several different countries were represented. The crew daily posts a map of your route and sells a map for $20 that helps fund one of the research stations there. You can have the ship’s captain and staff from the various countries’ bases affix their official stamps to it for a nice souvenir. Cheaper is the $5 smaller souvenir postermap from the Chilean station, but of course, there is no guarantee you will stop there.
One of the jobs of the Expedition Team leader is to coordinate the ship’s landings with the other 25-35 small ships that are in the area too—all dependent on the weather! We missed only 1 of our landings, and 1 other was quite the adventure with choppy seas splashing us with sea water and challenging us to get in and out of the zodiac without accidentally taking a polar plunge (which has happened!).
The daily lectures during both crossings of the Drake Passage were very enlightening (Drake never crossed the Drake Passage, Magellan never went through the straits, crab eater seals don’t eat crabs, etc.), and you should pay attention, lest you end up in the staff’s book of stupid questions—like “when can I see a polar bear?” or “what is the altitude here on the ship?”
Here are some practical tips about the ship and the trip that you may find useful before you finish packing. The indoor temperature was WAY too warm. I needed more t-shirts and light weight pants and fewer turtle necks, sweaters, and flannel lined jeans. I’d also brought flannel sleepwear, but ended up using a t-shirt as the cabin was quite warm. If you spend much time on the decks looking at icebergs or wildlife, you will get salt spray on camera and binocular lenses so some kind of cleaner (perhaps like you would use for glasses) is necessary. My soft cleaning cloth was not enough to get rid of the spots. I also found it helpful to have fingerless gloves when it was time to use the tiny buttons on my camera. I used these for my “liner” gloves and then put waterproof mittens over them during zodiac transfers or while on deck during cruising.
Instead of the recommended scarf (which blew into people’s faces), I bought a velcro closure face mask for windy times. I used 2 different hats: one that tied on (Russian bear hat style) for use on deck or zodiacs and one that pulled on for other times. I also used my fleece jacket that has a hoodie.
When it is your turn to go ashore, you will go to the outside rear deck to exchange your shoes for the landing boots you will store in a locker. It is very helpful to have oversized shoes that just slip off (like crocs or short snow boots) and that can accommodate all the pairs of sox that you plan to wear inside your landing boots. You don’t have time or space to be pulling on extra pairs of sox or other gear. I also brought some wool felt liners for the boots—a great idea since they took up some of the extra space (boots fit very loose) and they provided a layer of insulation and warmth which was appreciated when we were walking over snow, ice, cold rocks or in the freezing water.
You need to leave your hands free for walking around the ship (be prepared to be tossed around a bit unless you are lucky to have a "Drake lake" during the crossing), getting in and out of zodiacs, and navigating steep stairs so it is helpful to have either a small waterproof backpack or waterproof bags (with a clip to attach them to your red jacket) for cameras, sunglasses, lip balm and anything else you might want with you. I put my small camera on a lanyard and tucked it inside my red jacket so it would be protected against spray but would be handy whenever I needed it quickly (wildlife comes and goes in a split second). Make sure your eye glasses have a HARD case. I had only a soft neoprene case and my glasses broke early in the trip. Because the air is so dry there (Antarctica is the world’s largest desert!), I found it very useful to bring a saline nasal spray, eye drops, and skin moisturizer (which I never use on my oily skin). DO bring a swim suit as you will probably have a chance to do a “polar plunge.” Even if you think you won’t, you might. Several people got caught up in the moment, and some went in the water in their long underwear.
Since ski pants, that darn red parka, and other necessary clothes are VERY bulky, I used compression bags. I bought 2 expensive ones from REI and then found some for $1 at the Dollar Tree that worked almost as well. Do not use the kind that seal with a vacuum cleaner as you may not be able to reseal them for the trip home; the kind I used sealed like a ziplock bag--then I rolled them to squeeze the air out the bottom end. Very effective and saves a lot of suitcase space. If you don’t want your red parka (or any other gear) at the end of the trip, you can donate it to the crew or give it to your trip leader who will see that someone gets good use from it. If you want to keep it, have someone show you how to fold it into a compact basketball shape that stuffs into the hood.
At the end of the trip, you get a list with your group’s email addresses, but I wish I’d had some business cards to give to members outside our group and to those I felt closest to in our group. I’d brought pictures from home as was suggested on the packing list, but never used them. Most people were more interested in where you have traveled than where you live.
If I were going again, I would not do the optional tango show (even though I've enthusiastically done all the other optional tours on my many OAT trips). I love dance and the food was great, but $95 was too expensive for what we got. There was a lot of singing and not enough dancing, particularly flashy moves, and the performance was not very long, so I was somewhat disappointed. Several others in our group agreed.
For the shopaholics on the trip, the best available shopping is along Florida street (the street vendors are cheaper, but the quality is usually not as goodas an indoor store), at the flea market near the pink palace, in Camenito (part of your city tour—take money!) and in Ushuaia. Be sure to ask for your free charm if you visit any H. Stern jewelry store (each city has a different charm--collect them all!). The ship had a very small selection of goods, mostly hats, scarves, shirts and gloves.
In spite of the problems a few people experienced, I would go again in a heartbeat. How can you explain to folks back home the feeling of being face to face with vocal inquisitive penguins that regard you as a curiosity rather than a threat or the look of the night sky filled with billions of stars since there is no light pollution or the pungent smell of slick gobs of penguin poo or the sight of enormous icebergs that dwarf your ship or the lack of sound in a vast landscape with no human interference? No photo can do justice to the landscape or wildlife that you will experience. You have to see it to believe it, and even then ....
Traveler: Margaret Whitt from Murphy, TX traveled
on January 21, 2011
Was this review helpful to you?
Yes
No