Ancient Kingdoms
Published date:
01.16.10
We just completed the OAT Ancient Kingdoms Tour (AKT), with the Burma pre-extension. The trip really needs to be viewed and assessed as two major parts – the Burma pre-extension and the basic AKT. [Taking the post extension would have added to the complexity of the assessment.] And, within these two major parts, the AKT is really a series of subparts, with each part being one of the separate countries, and within each country optional excursions that one may elect to take or not take.
While overall I would give the trip ** * [Good], the parts ranged from * [Poor] for the Vietnam portion to **** [Ex] for the Burma pre-extension. We concluded that, particularly for the two of us who had previously visited Angkor Wat (Siem Reap), Vietnam, and ThailandBangkok, the trip would not have been worth taking without the great, if not actually fabulous, Burma pre-extension.
It is probably worth observing here that the AKT is really misnamed since nothing visited stems from BCE which is the time frame normally thought of as ancient, and only a few of itinerary or optional stops date from more than 900 years ago. I think the oldest things we observed in Laos were no more than 400-500 years old. Basically nothing in the Vietnam portion was more than 150 or so years old. Had the tour gone to Hue, the ancient capitol, or even the Champa ruins then at least the Vietnam portion would have included sites contemporary with Angkor Wat.
I. Before deciding to take the AKT with or without extensions, a traveler should be aware of certain things inherent in the trip. None of the following are very important, but they can be a bit irritating and pleasure diminishing.
For example, the extra costs of the visas. We used OAT’s recommended PVS service, and generally recommend it, but it did cost us about $350 each using the service (one of the visas required the more expensive priority handling). Additionally, despite OAT’s insistence that one should get all the visas before departure, obtaining visas in Laos and Cambodia on-site, as one of our fellow travelers did, was quite easy and far less expensive than using PVS. In addition to the costs of the visas two of the countries required a payment of $20 and $25 per traveler airport tax to leave the countries. None of this is wallet busting, but they are costs you should be aware of.
Even with the optional excursions, none of the itinerary items in the AKT are very comprehensive; i.e., too little time is provided to get more than a cursory view of the relatively few places covered by the itinerary.
While there were some differences in foods between the various countries and even cities within the countries, those differences tended to be subtle and based on the levels and types of spices rather than the meal components. As a result, while the food was generally good to excellent it tended to be the same, always with large quantities of rice. A special note of the soups served, which were all excellent.
As it was in India, virtually all the hotels we stayed in seemed to have problems with light switches and lighting. First, with one exception, all the hotel rooms were rather dimly lit. In at least half the cases if there were a bed lamp (aka reading lamp by bedside) there was only one such lamp. On a couple of occasions I had to use a flashlight to read in bed. Even when there were two lamps, frequently a single control on one side of the bed controlled both lights. Secondly, while there were many light switches around the rooms, they were unlabled and frequently not near the light or outlet they controlled. It was always a time consuming adventure to identify which switch turned on which light. In one hotel a number of switches were located behind the headboard [two single beds pushed together blocked the switches].
While napkins were generally provided at meals, all the countries except Thailand had a quaint practice of having toilet paper dispensers on the tables to provide something to supplement the napkins. The irony of this is that while toilet paper was on the dinner table, many of the toilet facilities that we occasionally had to use did not supply toilet paper requiring us to bring our own. We have always carried in our pockets the little Kleenix tissue packets, in part as an emergency toilet paper supply.
II. Burma ****
It has been our experience over our 16 prior trips with GCTOAT that GCTOAT employs the services of a sub-contractor when it first travels to a new location. Each time, those trips for us have been great. Once a location becomes established and GCTOAT establishes an office in the new place, the itinerary begins to degrade, sometimes significantly. This issue will be addressed in more depth at the end of this report. Despite what is implied by the catalog and detailed itinerary material, the AKT Program Director (PD) did not accompany the tour group on the Burma leg. The Burma pre-extension was run completely by a sub-contractor and it was great. Hopefully, the Burma experience will not be diluted over time, as other trips have done.
For now, however, it was great. Each day started early, broke in midday for lunch and a bit of a rest, and then resumed until at least dinner time. Thankfully there was little free time to be wasted languishing at some out-of-the-way hotel, as we experienced in so many trips. Most of the itinerary consisted of visiting temples and stupaspagodas, as well as local villages, markets and a school. The shopping stops were thankfully kept to a minimum. If I remember correctly, we thankfully only visited one local lacquer factory since I consider such visits a waste of my time trying to sell me something. We visited another lacquer factory in Saigon as well. As an aside, unlike so many travelers on these tours, I very rarely buy anything. I travel mostly as a photographer to take pictures.
The Burmese Program Director (PD) was able to facilitate all the luggage handling at the airports, and help the group bypass much of the airport red tape (ticket lines, health checks, etc.) minimizing the normal hassles of flying. Much of the normal hassle of air travel was eliminated with his help.
I was a bit nervous going to Burma without our regular OAT PD, since Burma has always been portrayed in the US as rather a vicious police state with an economically devastated economy and populace. While I realize that the Burma tour did not include areas still unrepaired after the terrible typhoon of a couple years ago or some of the worst economially deprived areas, what we saw was economically far ahead of India and Laos. The cities were real cities that looked like cities with store fronts and the like, and heavy traffic. The people appeared both friendly and happy, and thriving. There were no threatening guards or police or the like. They may have been in plain clothes, but they were not apparent. I might add here that the first time I went to Vietnam in 2002 I was nervous because I had no idea what to expect in terms of security, etc., but ended up falling in love with the country [Siagon excepted].
For me, one negative was that unlike other countries, in Burma one must remove both shoes and socks before entering temples and other such places. And in Burma we went to quite a few places requiring shoe and sock removal. Most countries only require the removal of shoes. If you go to Burma, take appropriate footwear to facilitate this.
No one took the optional balloon ride. My own rationale for not doing so is that there is always an increase in danger when riding in a balloon, and if I got injured I did not think the medical facilities in Burma would necessarily be good enough. As an aside to this, on the plane ride out of Burma we were joined on the plane by an American working at the US Embassy in Burma who had been bitten by a poisonous snake the day or two before. Since he was not responding well to treatment, the Embassy was sending him to Bangkok for better treatment. Bangkok is considered to be one of the world’s premier health centers. I would not recommend the other two extensions (Essential Yangon and Marionette Show), both of which we took.
I regretted when the Burma part of the trip was over, and I had to return to Bangkok.
III. Bangkok **
We first visited Bangkok on a whirlwind post extension to our GCT China trip in 1999. The sub contractor that GCT employed to run this three day (two full days in Bangkok) extension provided a fabulous experience. During the two full days we spent in Bangkok we toured the Grand Palace, the emerald Buddha, the Buddhist Marble Temple, the Reclining Buddha and its large complex, the Solid Gold Buddha in Chinatown, had a high speed dragon boat excursion on the Phraya River with a visit to the Temple of Dawn which is decorated with broken china, a small boat tour of tree and home lined canals ending in a visit to a true landmark – a Thai floating market, and finally a river cruise and dinner on a true converted rice barge.
As a result of OAT’s itinerary erosion that I alluded to earlier, what we did this time was visit the Grand Palace and view the emerald Buddha, the only two itinerary items offered in the base trip by OAT during the 2 days. On our own we revisited the Reclining Buddha and its complex. Even the Ayutthaya optional tour, which we did not take and which previously included a long multi hour boat ride on the river, from which one could view true Thailand river life, from Bangkok to Ayutthaya via the summer palace, had been minimized down to bus rides to Ayutthaya and a quick boat ride and no summer palace. When questioned why even the summer palace stop was dropped the PD’s response was that not being an ancient palace it was not appropriate for the AKT. Of course, it was probably a good deal older than anything we got to see in Vietnam.
In fairness, the first day in Bangkok was a free day, except for the optional to Ayutthaya. However, we spent the morning at a local hospital getting an injury sustained in Burma looked after, and the afternoon taking care of the injury. Otherwise some of the experiences we had on our first trip could have been revisited on our own at our own additional expense. Also, this time in Bangkok was our 5th time in the city, so we had done the original trip to Ayutthaya with its extended boat trip on two previous occasions, so we were not going again even without the injury.
My own view is that the two day itinerary in Bangkok had been reduced over the years to the point that the two days could haveshould have been better spent somewhere else.
At the tail end of the trip there is a dinner in Bangkok on the Phraya River, allegedly on a rice barge. The dinner was very nice, but it was on a boat not on an authentic converted rice barge, as was our dinner 10 years before.
IV. Laos ***
Our OAT PD accompanied the group to Laos and the other countries on the itinerary. The local guide for the four days in Laos was excellent, perhaps the best of any local guide I have ever had. In addition to his extensive knowledge and interesting and informative presentations, to facilitate things he would even help with luggage, serving, or whatever was needed to assist us in having the best time possible. He was great.
It was kind of interesting to visit Luang Prabang, a quaint townsmall city with the unusual name that I have heard about for many years.
For those who do not like to rise early in the morning, I would encourage you to do so for experiencing the traditional alms giving to the monks, and the subsequent walk through the market. It was a great experience. However, Luang Prabang, while pleasant, does not offer any really peak experiences or exciting sites.
The overland bus trip to Vientiane which required an overnight en route was a bit much, but nevertheless fascinating. We passed a number of ongoing weddings, and even stopped at one into which we were invited. We stayed for about ½ hour snapping photos (I have already sent the bride mine) before moving on. The hotel where we stayed that evening was minimal but serviceable, but we were glad to move on early the next day.
Vientiane is a small nice city. It does have a few sites of interest, but none were really exciting for me given all that we had seen since our tour began in Burma. For me the one exception to this was the optional trip to the Buddha Park which with its many unique statues of Buddha was a really fun place to see. I think it is really a shame that one has to spend extra funds, which can be a deterrent to many travelers, to see what I consider the real highlight of both Vientiane and Laos as a whole. Don’t miss the Buddha Park.
I do think my rather bland unenthusiastic assessment of Laos is in part due to its inevitable comparison to the earlier experiences in Burma. Burma will spoil things a bit for the rest of the trip.
V. Saigon, Vietnam *
The Saigon part of the trip was a serious disappointment for me.
As background, my 2002 tour of Vietnam was also my very first tour with OAT, and, I think, my best trip with OAT. Since then I have felt and shared with others that, based on that tour, Vietnam was my all-time favorite tour destination and that the PD I had on that tour was one of only 3 outstanding (far above the EX level) PDs I have ever had. It was a fabulous tour. I believe that at that time the OAT Vietnam tour was run solely by a subcontractor.
Since the Ancient Kingdoms tour stopped only in Saigon, a modern international city with apparently no very old, let alone ancient sites and not really representative of the true Vietnam and one that has relatively little to offer the tourist seeking the Vietnam experience (as generally confirmed by most guide books), my expectations remained relatively modest. Unfortunately even these relatively low expectations, since they were based on part on misleading information [a misrepresentation], were unmet by a wide margin.
Most guide books generally confirm that South Vietnam and more particularly the Saigon vicinity contain relatively few tourist highlights. However, one of the major highlights of this region is the extraordinary Than That Cao Dai, or Cao Dai Great Temple [Great Temple is part of its full name], located in Tay Ninh which is about 30 miles from the legendary Cu Chi Tunnels. Part of the recommended experience of this major highlight is to attend one of the four prayer sessions held daily. The Cai Dao Great Temple is generally visited on the same day one tours the Cu Chi Tunnels since they are relatively close to each other. On our 2002 tour we had attended a noon prayer session and found this experience and the huge nine level temple to be one of the major highlights of our entire 2002 Vietnam OAT tour. Because of this we were thrilled to see in the catalog for our 2009 Ancient Kingdoms trip that the tour would “visit the Cao Dai Great Temple, where worshippers garbed in colorful robes flock for daily prayer.” I might add that the tour’s Green Book also uses the term “Great Temple”.
Simply stated, the misleading catalog description of this itinerary item was a deception unworthy of OAT.
What this Ancient Kingdoms tour took us to was another Cao Dai temple with no service going on, and which, because of its much smaller size, would better be described as the Cao Dai Not-So-Great-Temple or even Cai Dai Temple Junior. Compared to the Cao Dai Great Temple this was more like the “little brown church in the dale” or a local church compared to one of the great cathedrals in Europe. When I questioned the local guide for Vietnam, he told me that I was wrong and in no uncertain terms that what we were looking at was “The” Cao Dai temple. I responded that it may well be “a” Cao Dai temple, but it was not “The” Cao Dai temple. He repeated that what we were standing in front of was The Cao Dai temple. He then sneeringly (observed and interpreted as such by several on the tour) implied that the temple I was describing did not really exist and demanded to know where or in what city this other temple that I was talking about was located. I responded that I did not remember which city the Cao Dai Great Temple was located, but I thought it was near the Cu Chi Tunnels area. I also observed that since he claimed to be a qualified Vietnam guide he should know where that temple was. I was supported in my position by two others on our tour who had also previously visited the Great Temple during its services and were as disappointed as I was with the deceit, and by a fourth who from the guide books was well aware of the existence of the Great Temple.
I believe he was one of the worst local guides I have ever been saddled with.
At any rate, this AKT does go to the Cu Chi Tunnels and The War Museum. It also stops at both the Post Office and the Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame. Neither of the latter two is really worth even a drive-by with the bus, let alone a stop and go-in. But they are in virtually every guide book so have become obligatory. Cu Chi is interesting, but normally not worth a revisit which we did this trip. However, the highlight of Saigon is the extra cost optional excursion that included the justifiably world famous Water Puppets, which should not be missed.
The overland trip through Vietnam to the Cambodian border displayed a great deal of the Vietnam countryside and the way the people lived beside the road. While initially interesting it soon became monotonous and redundant. It was on this leg that we stopped at the small Cau Dai Not-So-Great Temple leaving at the end of the Vietnam experience a bad taste in my mouth for Vietnam.
VI. Cambodia ***
The speed boat ride to Phnom Penh was a lot of fun and did provide interesting pictures of life along the Mekong River, and the Cambodia leg of the trip was quite decent. Since we had previously spent four days in Siem Reap in 2000, we were a bit more interested in seeing Phnom Penh. It is a very pleasant city, but we saw relatively little of in the 1 ½ days we were there. But the emphasis on the Khmer Rouge reign of terror, its prisions and notorious “killing fields” was perhaps much more appropriate than simply seeing more stupas and temples.
For anyone who has not visited Siem Reap, the location of Ankgor Wat and the other temples, this would be a highlight of the trip. The 2 ½ days spent in Siem Reap were generally filled with activities with thankfully little free time. While in 2000 we saw perhaps a dozen temples each sufficiently different to be fascinating temples during our 4 day visit there, this latest trip there provided a very good sampling of the best. The only downside was that the main tower at Angkor Wat had much scaffolding and was draped with large tarps. That particular classic photo was not to be.
VII. Basic Tour Summation
I would recommend that any traveler on the main AKT part of the trip take all the optional excursions. Not to do so greatly lessens the joys of the trip. OTOH, we felt that the two optional excursions in Burma were really not worth the money. But given the commitment of time and money to this lengthy and expensive trip, it is understandable that one spends a few extra dollars to ensure not missing something.
I am always very careful about what I eat in third world countries, but everyone else on the tour ate everything including salads and raw fruits, and no one got ill.
As sort of a postscript, I travel mostly to take photos, and many photos did I take – about 11K of them on this trip. I urge any taking this tour to take extra memory cards and at least one spare (better to take 2) battery per camera. Questions about any of the above can be address to
z_q-g.-u@cox.net.
Itinerary Erosion
When I have questioned GCTOAT personnel on this issue the standard answer is that the company wants to maintain its price points for its tours even if that means cutting back on built-in itineraries and shifting at least some of the deleted activities to extra cost optionals. This is not necessarily bad, but taking this strategy to its logical end would mean that at some point the basic tour would be no more than providing the traveler with transportation and a hotel, with no built-in itinerary. Presumably, once on site the traveler could select from a menu of optional extra price tours to sites and places he wants. However, particularly with a small OAT group, if not enough people want to take an optional excursion or a pre or post extension, the excursion or extension is simply cancelled. Quite conceivably, a traveler could find himself in a situation where every one of the excursions or extensions were cancelled because of insufficient interest. Such tours will have self destructed. Our tour had one such optional cancelled, and two others that just made the minimum participation levels.
Also, as it stands now some important items on the original tour itineraries were simply dropped altogether and not shifted to optionals. Visiting a floating market in either Vietnam or Thailand would be one example of this. Hopefully OAT will not regret this strategy, but for certain locations such as Vietnam I will be looking for other tours or setting up custom tours to see what I want to see and skip what does not interest me.
Traveler: John from Springfield, VA traveled
on December 12, 2009
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