A journey through Jordan, the Red Sea, and Egypt
I know that many of you keep journals of your OAT adventures because you’re often kind enough to send them to me when you return.
In this case, Jane Shanard (who refers to her traveling self as “Willie the Road Warrior”) took advantage of occasional computer access during her Cruising the Red Sea Small Ship Adventure to write live blog updates for her friends and family while on the road. I loved reading her descriptions, so we’ve published some excerpts for you.
— Harriet
By Jane “Willie the Road Warrior” Shanard of Minnetonka, Minnesota, 5-time traveler & Overseas Adventurers’ Club member
April 23, 2009: Willie Goes to Amman
On the road with Willie once again … newly arrived in Jordan.
As I write this a wedding party is moving through the lobby led by drums, bagpipes and chanters. Quite a spectacle and a beautiful bride.
Amman is a city growing. Iraqis are moving in. Six and a half million people live in Amman. Lots of construction. The building material of choice is red or white limestone. A new glass Hilton is going up with a twin office building, both tall and out of place.
April 24, 2009: Willie Goes to the Dead Sea
Cool in Amman today and overcast. We toured the city built on a number of hills—many more than Rome. The Roman Theater is lovely and being restored. The Citadel represents four different dynasties including Byzantine, which is quite elaborate. We have seen the hand of Hercules and his elbow. Many parts are missing. We have seen where David and Bathsheba walked. In the museum we saw some of the Dead Sea Scrolls—remarkably preserved. It is truly amazing how over 7,000 years cultures have built on top of each other.
From the high hills overlooking the beautiful Palace of the King we headed for the Dead Sea. Today is a holy day, so after prayers half of Amman joined us. Did not swim but stuck my toe in. Very salty.
April 25, 2009: Willie Goes to Jerash
Wow, what an experience. It is huge—temples, Doric columns, Hadrian’s Arch, forum, Temple of Zeus, Roman theaters, a variety of architecture, spread out over acres and acres and almost 70 per cent is not excavated. Restoration is slow. No UNESCO money.
We then visited a ruined castle in Ajlun. Gorgeous day.
April 26, 2009: Willie Goes to Petra via Mt. Nebo
Today we stood where Moses stood looking out to see Jericho and Jerusalem and in the far distance, Bethlehem. It was like standing where Julius Caesar stood in Rome. It looks out over a beautiful valley dotted with green and sand. It gives you goose bumps.
The next stop was high in the mountains overlooking the Mujib reserve. It is all layers and layers of sand and rock formed by huge faults in past earthquakes. Beautiful vistas and patches of green grass where Bedouins have farms and raise goats and sheep. Some olive trees. We have traveled the King’s Highway which has been improved as there are no chariot ruts any more!
May 1, 2009: On the Road still with Willie
Petra—what can I say? It is breathtaking. First you walk two-thirds of a mile through the narrow canyon (the Siq) to reach the Treasury, a magnificent 80-foot-tall building of rock. Only a small percent of the excavation has been completed and yet it encompasses thousands of kilometers. They have just started excavating the town. It is 2,200 years old and was built by the Nabateans. There are at least 860 tombs plus a theater, monastery, and palaces. It was rediscovered in 1812. It is no wonder this is considered the eighth wonder of the world. It is almost unbelievable.
Wadi Rum, The Valley of the Moon: My favorite. We drove to the desert after going to Aqaba and boarding the ship for the night. We rode in the back of 4x4 through the desert floor among beautiful rock formations. I felt like Lawrence of Arabia with the wind in my face but not much sand blowing that day. We climbed through the sand to look at rock formations and petroglyphs that are 2,500 years old.
The ship is lovely. A year old, holds 50 passengers. Very nice cabins. Mine is a single on the lower deck with a porthole and lots of room. Food is wonderful.
Sinai—the holiest place outside of Israel. St. Catherine’s Monastery at the foot of Mt. Sinai was built around burning bush 527-565 AD and is one of the oldest monasteries in world. It also houses the best icon collection outside Rome with wonderful manuscripts dating back many hundreds of years.
May 5, 2009: Willie Has Sex on the Beach
Got your attention, didn’t I? Sex on the Beach was wonderful in Sharm el Sheikh under a thatched roof with a gentle breeze. Lest you get too excited it was not a Middle Eastern prince but a cool drink of grenadine, vodka, rum, pineapple juice and a slice of orange. Yum!
The next day we cruised the Red Sea learning more about the Arabic language and history. If I can ever sort out the dynasties and kings, it will be a miracle.
Saturday night we dropped anchor at the south end of the 100-mile Suez Canal. The day was hazy from all the sand and pollution from the ships. We traveled in a straight line to Bitter Lake where we pulled over and let ships going south pass. Back to formation and into Port Said about 5 p.m. We probably saw 50 ships. Convoys run twice a day each way—24 hours, just like Panama—and usually 15 or less in a convoy, all by reservation. Customs and immigration comes on board, a pilot, quarantine officials, etc.
Today we left the hotel at 5:15 for the 7 a.m. flight to Luxor. Luxor is clean and small and not polluted. We then went to visit the Temple of Luxor. They are working hard to prevent crumbling. It is amazing what has been excavated. It probably has been excavated down 50 feet from the graffiti on the wall. Some statues and wall sculptures are in perfect condition because the sand protected them even though the Nile may have flooded.
Security is unbelievable. We travel in a two bus caravan with an armed guard in the front seat and usually with armed escorts in a car. Yet everyone leaves us alone. Americans are well-liked in Egypt by most people. Fear is not part of our trip. We are watchful and respectful.
May 6, 2009: Willie Visits the Valleys of the Kings and Queens!
Today we journeyed to the West Nile to the Valley of the Kings and Queens. There are 630 tombs that have been found of kings, queens, families, artisans, and noblemen. The colors are still outstanding, and the designs are very intricate on walls (tunnels to the tombs) and in the tomb itself. They are constantly excavating. The rock formations around the tombs are gorgeous.
Today’s picture of me is outstanding! I am holding a five-week-old goat which is adorable [See top of page.].
May 8, 2009: Willie Meets Moses
Today we toured Saqqara, home of the oldest of Egypt’s 97 pyramids and the final resting place of King Zoser, constructed 4,500 years ago. There I met Moses, my new camel friend who was a lot less interested in me than I was in him.
From Saqqara, we went to the Great Pyramid which has enough stones—6.8 million tons of limestone—to stretch halfway around the world at the equator or around France with a three-foot wall. It is overwhelming.
The last stop was the Sphinx which was constructed in 2558 BC. The paws alone are 50 feet long. It is huge and is quite well preserved. Sand has blown over it a number of times and they dig it out each time. It is at the foot of the Great Pyramid.
Home tomorrow. Godspeed to all. Wonderful trip, great people, and lots of photos and memories.
Relive Jane’s experiences for yourself on our Cruising the Red Sea: Egypt, Jordan & the Sinai Small Ship Adventure. And if you’re interested in transiting the Suez Canal, as Jane did, limited departures are available on our Suez Canal & Red Sea Cruise.