Getting to know the legendary landscapes—and welcoming people—of Jordan
By Zeren Earls, 10-time traveler & Vacation Ambassador
My friends and relatives weren’t exactly thrilled when I announced my plans to join OAT in Egypt and Jordan: They wondered why on earth I would want to visit a part of the world they perceived to be so unsafe. But to me, the opportunity to discover the timeless history and rich cultural traditions of the Middle East was far more important than safety concerns—and I’m so glad I went, in spite of their trepidations: the trip was fantastic and far exceeded my expectations! Jordan, in particular, was a land I loved to discover—and here I share some of the reasons why I will never forget my journey through this fascinating country …
With some of my fellow travelers in the Amphitheatre.
Touring Amman
Amman, called the “White City” because of its local limestone constructions, sits on ancient land that goes back to the Bronze Age, yet boasts of mostly modern buildings that share the cityscape alongside antiquities.
We saw the restored Roman Amphitheatre built into the hillside downtown. It seats 6,000 people and is still used for performances today. Near the Roman stage, we visited the Jordanian Folklore Museum. Guarded by a statue in traditional dress, it represents a cross-section of Jordanian life. Its collection of beautifully colored and embroidered dresses from Jordan and Palestine, along with antique jewelry in silver, amber, and coral, were among the highlights.
In the afternoon, we headed to the Dead Sea. As we descended 400 meters below sea level to get to this landlocked body of salt water, I had to pop my ears several times along the way. Once there, several of us decided to go in for a swim. Actually, we floated rather than swam—the salty water simply lifted our bodies without any help.
An impromptu English lesson with local students.
A Visit with Students in Anjara
The next morning, we drove through Amman to head north. When we arrived in Anjara, we visited the parish of Father Joseph and the college prep school he has established for 500 children. The students were at recess, which gave us the opportunity to speak with them—they were all learning English and were eager to practice with us.
The impressive Roman ruins of Jerash.
Ancient Roman Ruins in Jerash
Then we drove to Jerash, one of the ten largest cities of the Eastern Roman Empire. Originally built by Alexander the Great in the second century BC, it is a well-preserved treasure. Walking along its colonnaded streets, I kept wondering how the stone columns weighing tons might have been erected on top of one another. The expanding vistas of the surrounding rolling hills, as well as the panorama of modern Jerash, contributed to the spectacle of the setting.
Our day concluded with dinner at the home of a local family with six children in Amman. Dressed in his traditional caftan, the head of the house greeted us at the door, where we left our shoes. Facing our hostess, we sat on floor cushions along the perimeter of the living room. Following a soup course, we each had a plateful of roasted chicken, pilaf, and sliced tomatoes served from big platters set on the floor. For dessert, we had apples and bananas; in Jordan, it is customary to end a meal with seasonal fruit. After dinner, we enjoyed mint tea in traditional clear glasses.
We met two of the teenage daughters in the kitchen as we toured the apartment. Like other teens from traditional homes, they wore long white tunics, designed to hide their body contours, over blue jeans. White scarves tightly wrapped around their heads showed only the oval of their faces.
Sitting down to enjoy a homecooked meal.
Our hosts’ traditionally attired teenage daughters.
One of Madaba's many—and striking—mosaics.
Mosaics in Madaba
Heading south to Petra, we traveled on the King’s Highway, the world’s oldest road for traders, armies, and pilgrims throughout history. During the daylong journey along this winding, but scenic road, we collected shell fossils and passed by trees whitewashed with lime, mountainous landscapes, and rocky desert terrain. We stopped at the mosaic city of Madaba, an ancient Byzantine city that has been resettled by mostly Greek Orthodox Christians at the end of the 19th century. The mosaic map on the floor of Saint George’s, a Greek Orthodox church, is the oldest known map of the Holy Land.
Petra: An Awe-inspiring Ancient City
Finally we arrived in Petra. Our van dropped us off outside of the ancient city and we had to choose our own mode of transport to reach the entrance: Camel, donkey, horse carriage, or foot. A few of us opted to enter on foot. After walking about a mile, we passed through a narrow passage between 600-foot-high overhanging sandstone cliffs. As we exited, El Khazneh (The Treasury) glowed in front of us—a 140-foot edifice carved into a mountain.
The unassuming entrance to Petra …
… and El Khazneh, one of the rosy, rock-hewn buildings hidden inside.
A Bedouin family in front of their goat-hair tent.
Learning About Life in the Desert
Wadi Rum in southeastern Jordan was our final adventure. On the way, we stopped to visit a Bedouin family. This family had two tents made of black goat hair. Each of the two wives lived in a separate tent with six children apiece. We visited briefly with the first wife, who was deaf, and then went to the second tent for tea and conversation.
Men and women had separate sitting areas within the tent. A peephole in the room divider allowed men to beckon service from the other side. As girls came to the men’s section, they were chased back by their brothers because they did not belong there.
Like Zeren, you can float in the Dead Sea and visit a Bedouin family when you discover Jordan during a pre- or post-trip extension on our Cairo & the Eternal Nile River Small Ship Adventure.