Amid costumes and candles, Arachova celebrates its patron saint
Judy’s OAT group pauses and poses by the roadside with Arachova in the background.
By Judy Kehs of Rowley, Massachusetts, 2-time traveler & Vacation Ambassador
Easter was the last thing on our minds as we packed for our trip to Greece with OAT last year. In fact, Easter had been a bit of a blur obscured by the excitement of planning our trip.
We learned that Eastern Orthodox Easter often does not coincide with our Easter in the United States. What a wonderful surprise to discover that we weren’t going to miss Easter after all! Our travels were taking us to Thessaly, and a wonderful experience.
On Good Friday, we found ourselves at Meteora in Kalambaka (impressive in any circumstance!) and climbing through the mists to the lovely, tiny chapel awash with flowers and silent nuns busily putting the finishing touches on their displays. Our entire group, in spite of our very diverse backgrounds and religious leanings, were overwhelmed and moved to tears in the midst of such simple beauty and piety.
Stone church in the mountain town of Arachova, where a candlelight service was held Good Friday evening.
The day before Easter was spent in the hill town of Arachova, where we walked to a nearby village church for a special service. It ended with the lighting of taper candles that everyone carried silently through the narrow streets.
We roamed the pretty town on our own on Sunday morning and were tantalized by the fragrance of charcoal fires in every dooryard, where succulent lamb turned on spits. We were invited to join families to share their Easter feasts—and not simply invited, but taken by the arm and ushered into the family circle. There was no possibility of declining the invitation had we wanted to!
That evening, wearing socks to warm our cold hands and swaddled in the warmest clothes our suitcases produced, we joined the community. Most were in traditional costume, climbing the hundreds of steps to the church atop the hill.
Local costumed girls wait to join hundreds of their townspeople who will process by candlelight to celebrate Easter.
The costumes worn by the men and women alike, ranging from young children to elderly ex-Resistance fighters (with pistols and sabers tucked in their sashes), were spectacularly impressive with intricate embroidery, multiple sharply pressed pleats, stunning colors, and snowy whites.
From there, the throng processed with bands, ecclesiastical dignitaries (including the Archbishop), and other persons of importance down the hill and through the crooked streets. Although we were obvious outsiders, we were warmly welcomed with eager explanations of what was happening and gently pushed to the forefront so we could see better.
We learned that not only was it Easter, but St. Stephen's Day (or St. Stefan's Day), and the colorful carpets draped over balconies represented a symbol to Arachova's own patron saint.
I am far from a religious person and perhaps was so deeply impressed in spite of that, if not because of that. It was the best Easter I have ever had and an experience for all of my senses and my soul as well.
At any time of year, you’ll be welcomed to join in the traditions of Greece during our Treasures of the Aegean: Greek Island Cruise, Athens & Istanbul Small Ship adventure.