An insider’s look at traditional pudding shops in Turkey
By Aykut Uzun, Trip Leader, Turkey
Turkish Trip Leader Aykut Uzun
For many first-time visitors to Turkey, the presence of the “pudding shop” on almost every street corner might be a little surprising. They assume the name implies it all: Upon entering a pudding shop, you’ll have the chance to sample Turkish desserts. But believe it or not, pudding shops are not just a place for those seeking sweets. A pudding shop is the closest thing we have to a “diner” in Turkey, where you can eat eggs and sausage, chicken soup, rice pilaf with shredded chicken, and … yes, even pudding.
When you take a walk through the streets of Turkey’s major cities (like Istanbul), you’ll see mainly young people sitting and having dessert and coffee. Travelers often want to know why these young people are relaxing in the shops and not at work. I remind them that they are in a Mediterranean country, and Turks tend to take it easy. We’re not in a hurry. Half of Turkey’s population is under the age of 25, and pudding shops are the best places for them to socialize by tasting local and international delicacies, and especially desserts. Today, in order to promote socializing and introduce their specialties, big food and dessert companies are opening these pudding stores on every corner. The common characteristic of each of them is that no matter where you find one in Turkey, the dishes are fresh every day.
Once the only acceptable place for a first date in Turkish culture, pudding shops are now a popular spot for socialization among young people.
Prior to the 1960s, pudding shops normally served a small selection of drinks and sweets, including lemonade and soft drinks, along with two or three desserts. They were also the only socially acceptable place for “first dates” among young Turkish men and women, which means that these shops were not just found in major cities—they’re also in Turkey’s smallest towns. Since Turkey is a Muslim country, couples weren’t able to socialize very much prior to marriage. That’s why many people from past generations tend to have “sweet” memories when they think of visiting pudding shops.
Today, these shops are not only a place where we eat and drink. Sometimes they’re places to meet with friends or a date, to read, or just to sit and watch the passing people ... they’re part of our lives. With the growing popularity of chains like Starbucks, the number of pudding shops is depleting, and only the most well known remain open.
When leading OAT groups, I encourage travelers to taste four Turkish specialties: Kadayif (an angel hair pasta dessert), baklava, ice cream made with orchid flower petals, and chicken breast custard—and pudding shops are the best places to experience them. I don’t use the term “taste” because these delicacies deserve to be experienced, not simply tasted. For example, most Americans—before they eat baklava in Turkey—think that traditional baklava is what they’ve eaten in the U.S. After eating baklava in Turkey, travelers often question what they’ve been eating back at home.
A good baklava has approximately 40 layers of filo dough—of which the first 17 layers must be translucent. Kadayif is made with very thin pasta with either pistachios or some other similar nut in the middle, covered in syrup, and usually served with ice cream. The most uncommon items among my list of Turkish specialties are ice cream made with orchid flower petals and chicken breast custard. When I say that the ice cream has flower petals or the custard has chicken breast, most people don’t think it will be tasty. But these ingredients are added to give the dish texture, and you’d never know that you were eating flower petals or shredded chicken unless somebody tells you. And once people do try them, they no longer question what’s inside.
I encourage you to experience our traditional pudding shops for yourself when you visit Turkey. Sit back, relax, and take part in our lifestyle.
Here is a recipe submitted by one of my fellow Turkish Trip Leaders Ayberk Akdeniz for muhallebi, a milk pudding that is thickened with rice flower and sometimes perfumed with rose or orange flower water.
Muhallebi, a milk pudding that is thickened with rice flower.
Muhallebi (Turkish Milk Pudding)
Ingredients:
7 cups milk
½ -1 cups sugar (or to taste)
¾ cup rice flour
¼ cup cornstarch
1 cup water
½ cup rose or orange flower water (optional)
½ cup pistachios, chopped
Preparation:
- Mix milk and sugar in a large saucepan, heating slowly so you don’t burn the milk. Bring to a simmer.
- Dissolve rice flour and cornstarch in the water and, stirring constantly, slowly add the mixture to the simmering milk.
- Simmer gently for 30-40 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mixture has thickened sufficiently to coat a spoon. Remove from heat.
- Stir in rose or orange flower water (optional).
- Pour the mixture into individual dishes or cups, and refrigerate until chilled and set.
- Garnish with chopped pistachios before serving.
Learn more about popular traditions and favorite pastimes of the Mediterranean during our Treasures of the Aegean: Greek Island Cruise, Athens & Istanbul Small Ship Adventure.