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August 24, 2010
Iceland: Where magical landscapes are filled with huldufolk
After the eruption of a spectacularly named volcano brought air traffic in Europe to a standstill in April, I think it’s safe to say that people who’d never before heard of Iceland are now aware of its existence.
Admittedly, until a few years ago, I’d never really given much thought to the country myself. But then I kept hearing wonderful things about Iceland in the news—in 2006, for example, it was named the best place to live in a world happiness poll—and from friends who’d been there, and I grew increasingly curious about this tiny island in the North Atlantic. So curious, in fact, that I decided it was high time I saw for myself what all the fuss was about. And that’s how Iceland came to be the destination for the latest Lewis family vacation.
Alan, Edward, Charlotte, and I made our way to Iceland in July. As none of us had any definite notions of what we’d find there, we were immediately struck by the island’s physical beauty: Immense, centuries-old glaciers, glittering in the bright summer sun … thundering waterfalls, like Skogafoss, their misty spray reflecting rainbows … lush, verdant fields and mountains recalling the unbelievably green landscapes of Ireland. (I was particularly taken by a meadow filled with hundreds of thousands of blue and lavender lupine; I adore these flowers, and have tried many times to grow them in my New Hampshire garden, to no avail.)
That’s not to say that all of Iceland harbors scenery befitting a storybook. As we all know now, this is an island rife with active volcanoes—and as such, there are some areas where we found rocky, barren soil and austere landscapes formed by cooling lava. We also encountered fields filled with craters of bubbling mud, explosive geysers, and fumaroles venting steam and volcanic gases. Yet, despite the sulfurous smell in the air, these otherworldly elements—so different from anything you’d find in New England—have an undeniable beauty all their own.
My fascination with the country’s natural wonders was compounded by my discovery of the huldufolk—the “hidden people” that Icelanders believe inhabit their land. According to some studies, roughly half of the country’s nearly 300,000 inhabitants believe the existence of these seldom-seen creatures—as well as elves, gnomes, trolls, and fairies—is either probable or possible. Indeed, there have been several instances over the years where highways have been rerouted to avoid encroaching on suspected huldufolk abodes. To some, this may seem laughable, but I personally find it charming—and even a bit logical: the presence of magical sprites, after all, would certainly explain why Iceland’s landscapes are so enchanting.
I’ve included pictures from our family vacation in Favorite Adventures. If you’ve been to Iceland, too, I’d love to see your photos—and hear about what you enjoyed most about your trip. You can share your thoughts with me—and other travelers—by posting your comments below this Journal entry. (You can also email me at harriet@oattravel.com.)
In the coming weeks, we’ll be featuring Egypt, Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos and Cambodia. If you’ve explored these destinations with OAT, I’d love to hear about your experiences—and see your photos! Email me at
Harriet Lewis